milindu

Enjoyed the one on the 12/4 Tourer

The figures are with company drivers hauling corporate guests around. So it is relatively light footed. It all depends on at what time, where and how you move the 2 1/2 tons around.

The 200 averages 4.5-5 in the city. 6km/l out.

Looks like Mattala. The day they opened the airport.

As CJ5 mentioned if it is the anchoring points to the floor of the car, you simply have to tighten the bolts. If those are firmly fitted and the whole seat including the lowers shake or makes a noise, then check the seat rail at different seat positions. If this is the cause of the noise, you can look at adjusting the shape of the rail slightly so the 'play' is eleminated to some extent. If it is only the rear/ back rest of the seat has a play and is causing the noise, it is usually the seat adjustment mechanism that can be repaired with new/ turned out bushes with some success. If you aren't satisfied with a repair, you can look around Delkanda for a pair of used seats. Check Gunawardena CH or Maharagama CH.

@ Watchman: Nice water bottle @ Kaju, Most of the recon bikes (Seeduwa, Kurunegala etc.) that come with dual suspension (like the Chevrolet you have posted) are copies of DH (Downhill) with the coil at the back from China or Taiwan. At nearly 20kg and the bob at the back, they are not the best if you plan to ride regularly (will work fine for a ride around the house or Independence Square though). Your best bet is to look for something simple and light (Giant 4500/5000, Specialized Hard Rock/ Rock Hopper. Trek, Merida etc) and without the rear shock (a hard tail) to start with unless you want to spend a bit. Also make sure that the gears shift well and the bike is the right size for you. Size 16 (S) will work for those who are 5'5" to about 5'7" and 17 or 17.5 for those around up to around 5'9". Here is a pic from Niro's shop (Bugatti has given the contacts above) showing some used bikes that will work for most. Ride a bike proper and try a few alternatives before you buy it (you can rent them as well) https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151244815696820&set=o.263724657030789&type=1&theater

Hi SubZero, We use a steam cleaner (on our company vehicles) partially to deodorize and for stain removal to some extent. But I still feel a complete shampoo extraction (or a combination of both) is the best method. Both methods have to be applied on a sunny day and you have to leave the shutters down even partially for a further day or two for the remaining moisture to evaporate. You need to dry and get the water out no matter what method you use. You might also need to check and clean your A/C system along with the shampoo if the smell persists. You can also try applying a full discharge misting type deodoriser cannister which will empty itself within the car withing 10-15 minutes. You have to leave the A/C on and the shutters closed during the process. You have to keep the car closed for a further 5-6 hours for full effect and the chemical smells to die down. We have used Wurth and BG. You can have almost the same effect if you get a good bottle of vehicle deo and spray generously while the A/C is on. Meguiars and Autoglym work well. You have to remove seats and carpets on some occasions and the seat material/ sponge if the contaminant has seeped in really deep. But that is in very extreme cases. Please PM me the contact of the place that does steam cleaning as well.

Hi Zeristo, There are a few specialists offering servicing and repairs for Jags and you can find most parts used (ex UK) in the market or with these specialists. They get about 5-6km/l in the city. While they don't 'break' as often as people assume (if properly maintained), you can expect fuel pump replacements (45k used/ 110k b.new) depending on the use and the quality of fuel used and routine repairs. The bills only mount when you end up with a neglected car with 7-8 years worth of repairs and the 'don't buy' reputation gets slapped on. Message me if you need any details or info.

Hi C_J, The most comfortable option of the lot is the TRH 214 (Petrol 2.7 VVTi) which comes as a 9 passenger with 3 point seat belts etc. This is a semi high roof wide bodied LWB (220 Series goes as Super LWB) and rides like the older Grand Cabin G even with leaf springs at the rear. This model is not very common due to cost and the 2 year import window compared to the dual purpose or the 15 seaters having a 4 year window. I haven't seen the original diesel TRH 214 equivalents here but quite a few dual purpose super customs of the 210 series. The most durable option as Supra pointed out is the LH202 or the LH 222 with the 5L-E imported B.New by the agents. TRH 200 (Petrol) and the 2.5 litre recons are the options 2 and 3. There is a market aversion to the 201 (1KD) and the 205/6 (4WD) with the repair and replacement concerns so they will obviously have slightly lower 2nd hand values. But I'm guessing that the 200 series will be less sought after than the older generations as they grow older with the fuel/ sensor related issues down the line. The original Denso A/C unit and the seats sets are available in the market and the suspension (meant to carry Cargo) needs modification for passenger travel. So you have a range of options to work with starting from a TRH/ KDH200/1/5/6 DX. I would recommend the KDH 200 in terms of running costs and re-sale. A super custom if the price difference is not too great. Keep in mind that these things are almost never available in Japan with under 100k on the clock (and most have over 200k) and it is quite difficult to pickout signs after 're-conditioning' PM me if you need any specific info.

The look on your face that day was priceless . In his defence, the 17" wheels on the C makes the ride less than compliant.

White 3 Series. Nice How do the RFTs feel on that profile? I run about 20 Nm lower than yours... but no complaints

@ Komi: Our car is a 2000GLS with carbs (7 Sri). I remember chatting about it with your bro and coming to the conclusion that your mother's might have been the only EFi model. GTAm is right about the handling being 'soft'. But the set up is just fine for the city runs (you can run over potholes without a care) and is quite fun to drive around with the power steering, synchro box and the RWD setup. The 'roll' is felt only around track

Yeah. I was saying. The post seems to have gone missing.

The 150 Series with the 2.7 VVTi does around 5.5-6km/l on average mixed cycle. There are more Petrol vehicles due to the high duty on non permit diesels.

Most people seal the rotating unit and re-bushes the recliner once things become really bad. You can do a lot of lathe work and perhaps repair the mechanism. But probably not worth the effort and cost as longevity of the job will be in question. You can also see if a mechanism only or a damaged seat can be picked up from a seat shop.