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  1. Remove the fuse to bathroom light, She will come out. Let us know..
    3 points
  2. This is the story Shakespear would have written if he was alive in this era Screw Hamlet, Romeo and Juliet.... "Life and Love Permitted"...."Premio and Dutieth"..."Allion... You Like It"...."Much Ado About Axio"...."Titles Aquarius"
    3 points
  3. Absolutely not ! But lets also be positive....China does have a lot of EV charging infrastructure....so let's not be surprised if certain projects and contracts based on AMAZING loans gets thrown towards China. They never plan anything and just go with whatever fad they hear of which will keep the uneducated/self-centered masses quiet or push the agenda of any party who is willing to fill their pockets. If any planning was done...even a 5 year old can figure out that this is just going to cause a massive overload on the national grid and there will be no power for non-transportation purposes. Do we actually have an opposition ? I mean the same flock of goats that keep on jumpring back and forth and graze under a different tree is the same flock and not the flock of the neighboring farm right ?
    3 points
  4. 2021: everything has gone to shit and so have most of the Peugeots. Great cars, way ahead of their time. Rear wheel steering, rain sensing wipers, stability control, velvet seat belt covers and glove box.. And the executive version had variable steering, electric, heated seats and cruise control too. Just like what @peugeot407 said Find a good one, normal jap service centers can't scan or work on these cars. They can only wash them or inflate the tyres. If you are from WP, lots of pug specialists and parts suppliers are there. Life's easy. The budget range you mentioned will get you an L6A engined car. Very strong engine, there's a guy in negombo I think who was featured in a magazine once for running 500,000km on the original engine. But their fuel economy is low compared to the 6FZ 1.8 and LFY 1.8 and parts availability are a bit less. All the decent ones are above 1.9 - 2 mil now. The perfect 406 is: 1999-2001, Non-com 2000/semi mux, 2L HDi 90 diesel with 5spd manual, in rare sherwood green with sunroof and beige leather interior. But those are very rare now and a bit pricey too if someone does sell. Go for a 2L petrol one if possible, it doesn't necessarily have to be a fully loaded executive. You can find GTX and GLX trims too. They have better economy is uphill places too due to the unstressed engine. Do PM if you need any help regarding the matter! Also people will recommend you that MN Automobile in malabe is good. He is skilled, but he is a crook so beware, He will steal/swap parts.
    3 points
  5. Ayup. You could've ended up with something like this:
    2 points
  6. CV Joint replacement Hello Gents! Here's my story short. I've been a Toyota car owner for 5 years and decided to give a chance to car enthusiastic inside me to go for a Lance ex. So i've done it (special thanks for wife's approval ) and now I'm a proud owner of 2014 Lance Ex . I've bought the car 2 months back with 121K mileage on it. It was with 2nd owner and most of the running repairs were completed. So far its been a pleasant experience with the car for me. However i am missing the low maintenance cost on my Toyota given that i'm tight on budget after insurance payment and all. Going back to the thread, Kudos to everyone who started this and your information helped a lot for me. So it felt like my duty to add back my experience here so one day it will be useful for someone One month after i bought the car, heard some *tuku tuku noise on hard slow cornering. Initially thought it was from front shocks but as per one of relation who owns are garage told me it was definitely the CV. I had him inspected the joint, previous owner has replaced the boots but not the joints. I wanted the change the as soon as possible since I'm driving long distance often & sometimes in windy roads. He (my relation) told me that there would be spares to be easily found ,but without knowing the inner no of teeth's/groves its hard to find the exact part. So i found this thread and found that @trinity has mentioned the exact outer and inner groves of the CV. But as per what i read his was CY2 where as mine was CY1 and the Mitsubishi part numbers were different for the two models CY2: 3815A169/3815A170 CY1: 3815A454/3815A459 So i had no choice other than cutting open the cv to check the inner groves, for my luck/unluck its the same grove number as CY2, so i called WIMAL MOTORS MORATUWA where Trinity got his and guess what!, they dont have the part in stock. They checked with their supplier & informed me they would get the part within two weeks and it will cost more than 20K for once piece. I called UniMO and yes it is still correct, they dont have the "CV joint only" they only do the front axle replacement which cost 187K for once side. so for both sides it should be close to 400K with service charges. Well well well! at that point i though no way im going to pay my honest money to these buggers no matter what and decided to go for ordering the part from FEBEST (part number 0410-CY2) special thanks to @Hyaenidaefor the link and part number. But guess what!, you are correct trinity these things don't work out easily in car business, that's not how it happens lol. So FEBEST guys got my VIN and said the mentioned part did not match my vehicle . Now i had no where else to go. I had already contacted almost all the part shops in Sri Lanka and non the part matching my car. Then i was looking for a reconditioned part and reconditioned parts almost don't exist for this vehicle. Now with my car in garage for two days i was getting tensed and started measuring the dimensions of the removed CV joint and just like that It was exactly matching the description provided by FEBEST. So at this point i had to take a chance either to wait for WIMAL motors to get the part and do it myself. I took a chance, went with my instincts and ordered the part, they shipped via DHL express. 2 x CV joint with boot/greese/rings : LKR 16000 DHL Charges: LKR 14000 Taxes : LKR 22000 (with extra DHL charges for documentation) I got the part within 9 days of order placement and this mostly depend on the time taken for custom clearance in Sri Lanka. I was so nervous(couldn't sleep lol) until the part reached here and i wanted it to match dearly. My chance paid off and it was a exact match (sigh!!!!). I replaced both my joints, altogether it cost me around LKR 60000 for the whole job. Summary CV joint for CY1 & CY2 are same (Inner teeth = 30 / Outer teeth = 28/ Diameter = 59.5 mm) So that's my tale! hope someone find this information usefull! Oh! and almost forgot. Original CV joint had 8 balls and the new ones only had 6 balls. That was one of the reason i decided to change both joints. Noticed from the photos that there were only 6 balls in @trinity's new CVs as well, given that you have changed only once side, have you noticed any difference or issue with running on 6 ball CV? Thanks
    2 points
  7. I put two ferentino replacing the rear wheels of my vitz (175/70/r14). However, I didn't have much of a choice either. it was either chinese or ferentino so I went with ferentino with the idea that at least i'm helping a local business 😅 as the wheels are put in the rear there is no significant comfort or noise variations that I can determine. I have had them now for about 5000-7000 kms. so far I didn't face any problematic situations like tyre explosions, side wall bulging/protruding issues with highway and general motorways use. So I guess they're a better option rather than going for chinese brands which are priced in the same price level.
    2 points
  8. Nothing will happen to your engine. The w value does not apply to you, on the the 50 part. You just have a slightly heavier oil...depending on where and how you use your car and the condition of your engine..the car might even run better. If the car is being used in high ambient tempretures, do long runs..a heavier oil is preffered as it absorbs more heat without thinning out. If the engine is worn out with some high mileage..then again a thick oil is preffered as it creates a bit of resistance inside the engine. The down side is..if your engine is in decent shape...you might notice a very smal drop in fuel efficiency (because of the added resistance the oil creates inside th engine). If you feel uneasy about it...then change it..but it really is not needed.
    2 points
  9. wow this sounds a bit macabre - I hope you're not planning on buying a permit and disposing of the original permit holder. Or let me guess - a relative who is due for a permit is on his last legs? You want to but the permit off him before?
    2 points
  10. You will find pdf versions here : https://toyota.jp/ownersmanual/corollaaxio/ They are in Japanese because the Axio is (was ?) a for Japan only model. You can use Google Translate app on your mobile phone to translate the section you are looking at (just open the pdf file and go o the section you want on your computer and then use the Google Translationapp on your phone and just point the phone at the pdf document).
    2 points
  11. Okay...so...automotive lesson 101...if there is smoke coming out...you should certainly not be using it (depending on where the smoke is coming from you maybe able to let it cool down and drive normaly (like when brakes get over heated) or you should ideally put it on a carrier and take it to your service center. Now as for your issue...I am pretty sure I have seen people (in other regions) talk about adaptive learning issues in Honda's DTC transmissions. Basically your car learns how and when to shift based on the vehicle usage. When this stops learning shifting becaomes messy and gear shifts do not work properly. In older versions things like vehicles miss shifting (shifting to low or upper gear when it really shouldn't and making it difficult to drive) occured. But I believe most of the new systems now just put the car in to a limp mode in order to prevent the transmission from going-out. Now here is the thing....most of the new cars have everything from the braking system to Hybrid systems to steering systems to engine systems to passive safety systems to engine systems all connected to make sure that one system in a vehicle does not do anything to compromise the safety of the vehicle when another system is having trouble (for exampe, if the braking system is not working properly you might notice that the Hybrid system changes the way it assists the engine or not even assist at all...or that when the Hybrid system is not working properly things like City brake assist will not work) Hondas of your era are notorious for having a complexly integrated system that is very grumpy and overly sensitive. So all those errors you see with the systems turning off or not working properly could be the result of one single issue. So take it to a proper garage (maybe agent ?) and get to the root of everything (seems like it could be the transmission). and then see what happens from there.
    2 points
  12. Yes this is true....you do need to get prior approval, not just for engine swaps but for all mods. However, if for some reason you do do the engine swap without prior approval you can still get the book updated. It is just that they make you jump through extra hoops and make your life miserable (it would help if you still have the old engine lying around and be willing to take it over to the inspection place if the officers are complete and utter [email protected]$ and you just want to shove it up their ***###@@@)
    2 points
  13. yes, did it few years back. Make sure to ship it without the box if possible stating that its been used, so you could avoid or reduce the tax. In my case, I went to the central mail exchange in Colombo 2 and paid a very little fee ( Less than Rs 1000 as I remember) and got it cleared. In case if you are using Fedex, they will clear the tax for you and deliver it to your door.
    2 points
  14. Odometer tampering is a common practice and nothing can be done about it. This is mainly due to Sri Lankan mindset - for most Sri Lankan's the condition of the car does not matter but the number of owners and the mileage do. So some people tend to knowingly prefer a tampered mileage car cos he can sell it off as low mileage to the next buyer (after all everyone here buys a car having the next potential buyers preferences in mind)... there's nothing to be done unfortunately. Car sales are notorious for this : There used to be a particular car sale in Mount Lavinia where every car they sold had the same mileage 😁 of 69,000 km.
    1 point
  15. I think wife is still inside the bathroom but here is the car. 😊 regards, JC
    1 point
  16. Hypothetically you had around 500k - 700k lying in the bank, what car would you buy and why? Other than the obvious Lancer Box Models and B211s
    1 point
  17. Not sure about the rate...but yes...you will be charged that rate per CC unit. Plus, you will have to pay 100% of your CIF value as luxury tax. Now this is what the system used to be. Now that vehicle imports are stopped nothing is valid anymore. When t starts, we have no idea what new measures will be introduced.
    1 point
  18. Hello all, Its been 2 years since I got solved the problem, 78,900Kms on the clock and still car runs smoothly. Seems like changing pistons with rings is a permanent or last long solution for oil burning issue. Will update here if I face anything else in the future. Cheers!!!
    1 point
  19. near the firewall just under dashboard? Thought some kind of a electrical short circuit.
    1 point
  20. I was about to suggest a Viva Elite since I had good experience with it. I was shocked to see the price of those now.. Looks like going around 3mil.. Dang..!!
    1 point
  21. Sadly not the best of cars....very unrefined and mediocre build quality. A car just having 64,000km (assuming it is accurate) and just 10 years old needing a steering rack repair is a testament to the quality of components. Just like the Maruti 800s and Celries...these cars have rather cheap parts for repairs, but sadly the parts hav very short life spans. Sadly in the current market you will have to resort to much older Japanese cars (around the early tomid 90s ?). Personally, I do feel that a averagely maintained slightly older Japanese car would be better than the Zen. Don't get me wrong..India does make some good cars...but Marutis (especially from the era you are looking at) are not those. Yes..it will be hard to find a decent Japanese car that has not been messed around with and is actually good. But I do feel the search will be worth it. Let it be the Zen (or a newer car) or an older car. You say you cannot buy an older car because you know nothing about cars to pick a good one. The same goes for newer and non Japanese cars as well...YOU CANNOT INSPECT AND DECIDE TO BUY IT ON YOUR OWN! You MUST take it to a proper car check place to get a proper inspection done. So at the end of the day it really doesn't matter whether it is a Zen or a Toyota/Nissan. As for your 100,000 budget for repairs...you might be pushing it....remember...trust no one when it comes to buying cars in SL. So be prepared to change the timing belt (if it has a belt), brake pads, suspension bushes etc...no matter what you buy (you can forego things like the timing belt if there are verifiable records...and by verifiable I mean you can call up the agent or someone and see if the repair is logged).
    1 point
  22. and I am sure there are Daihatsus and Hinos with Toyota parts....like I said..everything is getting gobbled up by the high and mighty that technical differenciation of brands is getting rather blurred. Which is not a good thing.
    1 point
  23. Separate tie rods are available but they are not genuine. It will be a low quality Malaysian after market product. It is a good idea to get your car inspected by the agents
    1 point
  24. Hi Guys, Does anyone here knows whether we can change the language of Audio Setup in honda fit gp1. It's Gathers VXM 128VS. I'm curious has anyone done it before or if it's possible. I my self tried this using the Manual and couldn't succeed. There were couple of YouTube videos as well which we can use google translator to find out correct language settings that didn't work as well. If you guys have any experience or knows a place a do so I would be really great full.
    1 point
  25. This is a common fault on Viva. There is no point trying to repair it. Used Daihatsu racks from Japan are freely available in the market and they offer a slightly better ride quality over the original rack from Malayasia. Initially, get your car inspected buy a mechanic who is experienced with Vivas. Because replacing the tie rods will be a waste of money if your steering rack is failing. Also, Perodua doesn't offer tie rods as separate parts, they offer steering rack and tie rods as one part.
    1 point
  26. Brembos are not cheap. They are the opposite of cheap...Brembos, ProjectMu, etc...are probably on the higher end of the price. In Sri Lanka the dynamics change...for starters...the "original" brake pads with a box with a Honda or Toyota logo on it gets priced high through the agent just because ...Toyota is the worst..funnily in Japan Toyota dealers give drive joy and you do not get those nice red boxes (I have ranted many times about how screwed up the market is because of cheap crap flooding the market). Then comparatively, those independants who bring in Brembos can pretty much give them at the same price as what the agents charge for the OEMs (however, last I checked the Brembos were still more expensive than the OEMs). hen in SL you also get Brembos that are really cheap (I will leave it to you to decide why or how that is...maybe Brembo has an econo line for developing markets...maybe they are just...well). I think the more reasonably priced brakes in SL would be Dixel and Endless nnon performance lines....apart from that I am sure you get the more traditional and yet reputed Taiwanese and other SEA brands.
    1 point
  27. Just change it....it is customary to do things like changing timing belt and components (and whilst you are there you might want to check the water pump as well), all fluids, inspect brakes, etc...when you buy a car (especially in SL when you cannot trust service records or mileages). Also, typically brake fluid replacement is eery 20,000km after the first thre years or so (which is supposed to be 30,000 to 40,000). Some manufacturers recommend 40,000km but as the brake system gets old this is recommended to be lowered. So yes....change the fluids....change the timing belt and its little pieces. Look for any oil seepage and replace any worn out seals, suspension bushes as well as you movie forward (Timing belt is high priority..the others you can progressively do if that makes more financial sense).
    1 point
  28. Hi, Is it auto or a manual? If it is auto change the oil with a DEX III ATF. Also you must change the brake oil with DOT3 specs. Brake oil could be changed when you are replacing the brake pads. In case of power steering oil it is not compulsory to change it. Check the colour of the fluid in the reservoir tank. If it is red and not discoloured you don't have to change it. Also, you must flush the coolant in your radiator at this millage. Importantly, Since your car has reached 100K kms immediately replace the timing belt along with the pulleys and the tensioner.
    1 point
  29. If you do go for a Automatic..use it...see how it is...then think of a conversion once you get bored with it
    1 point
  30. Whether the ABS unit can be repaired (or should be repaired) or not depends on the actual problem. Have you checked with Stafford about the cost of a new one ? You obviously can buy a reconditioned unit..but that is also a gamble as you do not know what the condition of the unit is (some shops do give a few months warranty). Also, if the ABS unit is known to have a certain failure rate, then you never know at what point the used part would go bad. So...please do check the price of a new one and a used one and compare the prices and only go for a used unit if the new part is unreasonably expensive (eg...a bnew part costs 4 or 5 times as much as a used part...). As for whether to find it...I don't know...maybe the Honda owners on the forums can recommed reputable Honda parts specialists. If not you will have to do some hunting around in Delkanda and PKW.
    1 point
  31. I have been using 5W 30 Toyota oil. Never used 0W 20. And I do change in 5000km / 6 month intervals. For me also 6 month is reached earlier than reaching 5000kms for past year. If I were you I will change the oil in 6 months regardless. And I dont see an issue in moving to 5W 30.
    1 point
  32. The reason Sri Lanka voted for a system change twice and still ended up with the same set of goats. No wonder a lot of people are thinking of leaving.
    1 point
  33. No they don't. That is the problem....the majority (and soon everyone) has to live below the poverty line and kept there just because these guys feel they HAVE to live in luxury
    1 point
  34. https://www.dailymirror.lk/breaking_news/Priority-given-to-import-electric-vehicles-to-reduce-air-pollution/108-215634 There you go, they should first look at infrastructure, charging capability, range, scrappage schemes before implementing. Hope we dont bring down EV's and transplant hybrid petrol engines like they do on the Leaf. Air pollution my foot. You stop imports of fossil fuel vehicles and burn more fossil fuels to charge them. Where is the promised renewable energy etc?
    1 point
  35. Bugatti Rimac deal and Mate as CEO to operate the Bugatti Rimac. https://www.theverge.com/2021/7/5/22563898/bugatti-rimac-electric-supercar-acquisitoin-deal Mate announcing the deal
    1 point
  36. No one can say how many mounts are broken without inspecting it....so go to a garage and see how many are spoilt and replace as needed.
    1 point
  37. I think before actually carrying out the swap, you have to inform the Commissioner of MT about it with reasonable reasons for doing it and get a preliminary approval. then all the other stuff follows as @matroska has stated. this I remember reading somewhere in the DMT website longtime back.
    1 point
  38. What I do is I just open up the box in a rather slightly-not-so-gentle manner so that there are pressure marks on the box, lids slightly folded in the corners, etc...so that it looks like it has been opened and been lying around for a while. Fun fact: Japanese keep boxes for EVERYTHING ! Yes..even my wife hordes boxes, but she hordes boxes of fragile and high value items....and they are nicely stored so the boxes look pretty new except that it has those little signs that they have been opened I would not get rid of the original box for something like a laptop due to the inner packaging that keeps the laptop nice and snug
    1 point
  39. @iRage since OP's main criteria is a car that can safely and comfortably transport his mother what about a lumbering old diesel barge like a Camry/Vista CV30 a Bluebird SU12 or even a CT170 Carina ? OP have limited options since you're looking at cars that are 30 years or older make sure you have at least 100,000 for immediate repairs. Since rear seat comfort for your mother is important I will exclude hatches like Nissan March or Toyota Starlet. - Nissan Sunny SB13 early 90's 64- plates : diesels are right in your budget. Petrols are overpriced - Toyota Carina/Corona AT/CT170 : early 90's - AT170 is the petrol and CT170 is diesel. 18/19- petrol 64- diesel You have higher chance of finding a diesel in your budget. You might even get auto gears thrown in. - Toyota Camry/Vista CV30 : Early 90's 64- almost exclusively diesel and mostly auto. -Nissan Bluebird U12 : Petrol/Diesel both in your budget late 80's early 90's. U13 too if you're lucky. Presealover probably knows every single U13 in the country 😛 -Wagons like the Corolla EE96, Nissan AD are not that comfy in the back - you get a hideous rear seat (specially in the Nissan AD). You might be able to get a Wingroad with a duplicate CR or in need of a paint job. -I have omitted hatches. - As your requirement is somewhat immediate i am not suggesting projects. My suggestion is check the facebook groups and the car sites .The 'quick' site does not have a lot of retro cars so your go-to site would be the site when directly translated would look like 'car-shade' sudden deals come up - for instance there was an absolute mint Corolla AE90 for sale for 1 Mil cos it had a duplicate CR. Also another option if you're a little car-savvy is to bargain and get a car in good running condition and without a lot of corrosion but needing a paint job or some work on the interior. It will fulfil your day to day runs - in the meantime you can save up and improve the car when you have money.
    1 point
  40. @CricDasher i've bought from these guys before but be mindful of shipping & customs clearance delays thanks to COVID and local import duty https://partsouq.com/search/search?q=63491B4010&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_ez2BRCyARIsAJfg-kt_W789Pu0XVWK1T5Pp4qrkQ-dnkSwrjpO8dm-aeOYrChviW05zLTUaAhzxEALw_wcB
    1 point
  41. Hi With regards to the engine oil, strongly recommend Castrol as said by the agents. On previous models such as the BJ , slug buildup was there for engines which used Mobil . Best avoid fully syntactic oil completely. castrol magnatec is a good oil and can run up to 10K without an issue but I changed in 7-8000. stick to the ratings mus as possible as the velocity is critical. As for the gearbox, Well I totally disagree with concept of "Lifetime" as said by one member, it means 50,000K . Having said that u need to ensure that you have the correct brand and oil type specified by manufacture. I had to suffer from a case where the previous owner not using the Mazda MV oil. Did a lot of research and found out that the MV or M5 oil velocity is different form other oils who claim it is compatible. Hence don't risk and try to get the correct oil. Also note the interval would be best changed at least 30-40000 Km simply due to the heat condition we have here along with the lovely traffic . PS not trying to promote the brand but just the simple fact that type of oils do have it;s own characteristics . Please delete if not allowed
    1 point
  42. Hi, I too have an Axela. The recommended oil is ATF 3324. The oil seems to be unavailable. I did the ATF change at C******l M****s. The local agent says that the oil has a 'lifetime' warranty and does not need to be changed. I understand that the 'lifetime' warranty translates to around 50,000 kms. I'll post the cost later as I have to trace the record. Best of luck DilankaW
    1 point
  43. Hi, Sorry for the late reply. Please note below prices includes shipping, sometimes which is higher than the item price itself. Better if you can find the items locally but I couldn't find them in any nearby place. New compatible Fog lamp switch from Aliexpress for about Rs.1000 = https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fog-Lamp-Control-Switch-For-Mitsubishi-Pajero-Montero-III-IV-IO-Lancer-Grandis-MR190953/1740954786.html But using this Genuine may be easier for you as I think you don't need to swap the internals https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evolution-Evo-7-VII-CT9A-Fog-Light-Control-Switch-Button/142731475316?hash=item213b757974:g:DyYAAOSwda1atFw8:rk:1:pf:0 New compatible Fog lamp kit also from Aliexpress for around Rs.10000 (including Shipping + Tax) = https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fog-light-for-for-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-2005-2007-2011-fog-lamp-Clear-yellow-smoke-Lens-Bumper/32705100511.html Used Genuine Fog lamp switch plastic trim (From a EVO9 ) from Ebay for around Rs.5000 = https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evolution-7-VII-CT9A-Drivers-Side-Mirror-Switch-Panel-Trim/382417769731?hash=item5909e01503:g:~bkAAOSws6ZZ7XWz:rk:12:pf:0 Used Genuine Fog Lamp relay from local shop Rs.300 - Just check the model number of the Horn relay and buy the same one for the fog relay
    1 point
  44. I missed the Rapier. Yest, it's a better equipped GLX and was only made for UK market. It's got chrome rings around gauges, all teak panels in GLX have been replaced with a black shade and better fabric interior in black color. no V6 406s here, not even a coupe for that matter. Don't know whether any rare beast exists just like the only 504 Coupe. There are V6 407s and 607s though.
    1 point
  45. Hi Guys, I want to purchase a used motorcycle over 500cc up to 1000cc in Sri Lanka. I was told that the laws here now has changed and able to buy and legally register a bike in my name up to 1000cc to be ridden on the road. 1. A bike has been offered to me and seller says bike has been approved for registration and he will register in my name once I pay him the money. 2. But a friend told me that the amnesty period given to register bikes up to 1000cc is now over and these bikes cannot be transferred or re registered. 3. Also these bikes can be only used for “sports use” (not for road use but only for race track competition use) and this is stamped in the registration book. 4. When I checked with my insurance company they said if the registration card is stamped for “sports use” then they can only issue a policy for the application of racing only and the cost will be very high. 5. The insurance company also cautioned me saying If I ride this bike on the road and in the event of an accident the bike will not be covered and the event of a 3rd party fatal accident the police will charge me under the penal code as manslaughter since the insurance policy do not cover road use. Any advise from you guys will be highly appreciated.
    1 point
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