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  1. Ok Gentlemen. Here's my restored Bluebird ARX Only thing left is now to find a star shaped alloy and il be done.
    6 points
  2. Dad bought a first owner Presea R11. That lady who owned it before almost never drove it, it still had the same air filter that came from japan. I think we will keep this car for the rest of our lives. Funny thing is now we both own Nissans and both own G numbers and both has cars with frameless windows and both cars are manufactured in 1995.
    4 points
  3. So it's been a year since I bought my Nissan Teana and it's been quite the journey. I always comes around 6 months to this forum and promises to give updates on the car and just disappears so apologies for that😪. Now living with a barge for a year, well firstly it was a journey, figuring out the car slowly and just trying to live with a long ass car battling through the Colombo traffic. It was very hard to drive firstly because the car is 2.8m long and in high level road traffic where you constantly need to change lanes you feel like you want that Harry Potter bus shrink button. But hey the size has its own props, my father recently used the boot to transport a whole freaking table, and it seems my mom buys groceries more now because the boot is bigger😂. So the driving experience, honestly it's not that bad as you expect. It's definitely a smooth ride but when you press the throttle you see the advantage of a CVT and a huge ass 2.5L V6, anytime i need to overtake something i just need to nudge the throttle and I'm there, where i see "peasant" 1.5L engines doing their maximum ~s~. The acceleration is there but you cannot feel it, whenever I'm doing 100 I have to double check my speedo to actually feel it. It seems that's why this seems slow, when I was driving the w204 c180 1.6L, whenever I push the accelerator the RPM went to 3000 and gears actually changed, you felt the cats doing something and even tho it's doing 80kmh you felt like it's doing 160, but that's not the case with the Teana, you press the throttle and the barge goes that's it. You just can't get that raw driving feeling so it's kinda boring but my father loves it because it's relaxing to drive. Even cornering is fine but I haven't been that adventurous to do a 150kmh corner in a fwd car which weighs 1.6 tons😂. The comfort is the main thing I experienced in during the year i had the car, the back seat is just a cloud. Even tho it's suede seats you can just sleep on them. I always try to avoid driving the car so I can just be in the back seat with my legs extended forward and my hand resting on the rear backrest. So the restoration process have been slightly delayed because of COVID, i recently found a whole Teana j32 which is bought down from Japan for parts so I will find almost everything I need from that. I just need a new rear bumper since the one currently has , small cracks and few chrome pieces broken. Also I'm trying to find an original pair of fog lights since the once i have now have been converted to HID which doesn't seem to be the manufacturer spec. Need to get Michelin tyres because the tyres i currently have are pretty noisy and doesn't do justice for the Teana. I have a plan to bring down a rear boot lip spoiler and a sports grille from Japan, just to make the car a bit yakuza. So the problems, well I actually didn't face any, I had a leaking radiator tank so I got that fixed with a "lifetime" Warrenty and the rear multi link suspension have been squeaking when I drive over uneven surfaces or whenever the car goes in a steep downhill, so I need to fix the rear bushings as well. (I hope it's bushings but any input is accepted from the forum). Other than those two, i just did my normal maintenance and just drove it, I figured that if I didn't push the car or keep it idle for a long time, it does around 8-9 kmpl on my day to day route. But whenever I'm going grocery shopping with my mom and she stops at 100+ shops this drops to around 6-7 since I keep my AC on and the car is almost at idle for the whole journey. @MaleCortanacan vouch for this since he also faces the same problem with grocery shopping. So to sum up my 1 year 6000km journey with my Teana, I kinda got what I wished for. I didn't expect Nissan skyline level performance nor Toyota Crown level comfort so I'm actually happy and since the market has been shot up, I received offers above 6.5 mil😂. So I am pretty happy Lastly If anyone knows a good place to do beige suede seat cleaning please recommend me. The only problem with beige suede seats is keeping them actually beige which is honestly not possible atleast with my mom's carelessness. She just gets in and keeps her wet umbrella near the seat and just listen to the radio while I'm there on the driving seat speechless of the abomination. I'm thinking of leather seat covers so anything related to interior is highly appreciated. Thanks and hope to come back in another 6 months with a VQ35HR engine swapped Teana😂 P.s photo dump for the past 6 months and @MaleCortana thanks for the brochure.
    3 points
  4. Thus...why waste time listing out vehicle prices when there are greater and more serious problems at hand. Bringing down the vehicles prices is not going to solve the problem that we are bankrupt as a country
    3 points
  5. When you think that these jokers stop joking around this happens. https://www.dailymirror.lk/business-news/CB-to-propose-resumption-of-car-imports-paid-via-foreign-currency/273-222729 Its just a way of telling people to bring in their foreign currency. IMO there will be a lot of background work to be done. This statement has been going around for sometime and this has slowed down the used car market a bit as well. Thing is he never says when it will be implemented, just goes to say that he is suggesting to the government (and who exactly is he? the Central Bank Governor and not the Minister, and no vehicles doesn't fall under the central bank purview). This will just invite the crooks and underhand people to bring in vehicles and not the people who need them. I saw a video of VIASL talking about getting two years credit from Japan if they are given a chance to import. Being in the industry with manufacturer agents it has been very disheartening to see what is happening around, we still dont know what to do, we dont know what to tell the principals and dont know if they will revoke the authorization given by them to be their agent. A lot of agents had to dishonour the L/C's last year. Most have gone into the buying and selling business to stay afloat but these kind of stories create chaos in the market. There has been a talk about the prices of these models, hence the reason the Wagon R's which were quoted at 7.0mil have dropped to 4.5 - 5.0mil range now. The vehicle valuers had started giving lower values in line with the Punchi Car Nivasa guys video and there was a talk of the CB changing the LTV on vehicles. Do you think people in Sri Lanka will stick to the price controls? They couldn't even stick to the price controls on essentials such as sugar, rice, coconut etc...
    3 points
  6. I was curious who was complaining about good fuel figures - well I'm not surprised. Anyways I can think of two things 1. What Gummy mentioned : Calibration issues with the meter .Try comparing the ODO with a known distance /or with google maps/ check with someone else. 2. There's actually nothing wrong : 1.8 Is the perfect size engine for the car. Enough power to pull it without getting stressed out. Despite people fearing larger engines - I have ample experience where underpowered small engines end up being gas guzzlers. My dad's B14 which we used for decades never did anything above 8KMPL having a tiny 1.3 engine and dragging a lump of a car around. The fact that I floored it more often than not did not help
    3 points
  7. Hey Guys, Looks like I have missed quite a lot in this thread. It's been a while since my last post.Hope you guys are safe and sound and getting used to new normal.I have done quite a few repairs on my Car and thought of giving you short versions with Pics. Replaced Rear tyres- This was done last year, I was looking for same Nankang S20 tyres as my front However due to unavailability of stocks I settled with Kenda Vezda Set (225*45*18). Not as impressive as the Nankang tyres but gets the job done. Tyres Cost-46,000Rs Wheel balancing and alignment-1,700rs. An Engine oil leak was repaired- At first I thought this was from the Oil pan itself. However digging deeper the leak was actually from the Oil pressure plug.Since this needed to be addressed quickly I went ahead with a Local Pressure plug for just 450bucks. Needed some ground work to get this properly fixed though. Replaced Rear brake shoes- My rear brake shoes were on their way out.This was spotted at routine service. Mitsubishi part Num- 4600A028. Roamed around kandy to find the parts,After a few errand runs found the exact match with a Nissan Bluebird shoes set (Model-JFBK KN-1267). Took both Rear brake drums to a lathe shop and smoothen the inner surfaces before fitting the shoes. Brake shoes- 5,000Rs Lathe shop labour charge-1,000rs Fitting labour charge- 2,500rs Radiator Cap Essay was damaged and was replaced- Coolant was literally storming from the cap after about 3km run with AC on. As a temporary measure used Elephant Epoxy Adhesive to seal the leak. in the meantime ordered Cap-Assay- Radiator (Mitsubishi Part Num 1350A043) from Amayama for 10k including shipping. Arrived exactly after 2 weeks.Fitted and No more leaks. The old Cap Assay was in really bad shape and literally Cracks were visible inside. With the exception of the Tyre replacement all the other services were done at home by my trusted mechanic. Yeah I am lucky to have the luxury of having a home visiting mechanic. overall a Very good learning experience for me as well. Signing out. Drive safe guys.
    2 points
  8. If you are not looking specifically for a Sedan, I would prefer FIT GP1/GP2 or GP4 models as well. All of these models has all the fancy equipment's you need for day today driving like cruise control multi-functional steering wheel, auto AC and what not. Cabin room leg space is quite enough and 4 people can comfortably travel. Very comfortable and fuel efficient too. Has nicer instrument cluster with many advanced information for the driver. Very good on fuel and pulling power is very good for the engine capacity (you don't feel like driving a typical 1.3 engine car with the support of IMA). Car is also newer and most importantly, parts are freely available starting for engine to small nut or bulb. And these models has less/ almost no issues with the battery as well. I know few people who have done above 130k on the clock on original battery and still counting. + car looks sporty and nice if you opted for wider wheels for rear So it all depends on how well the car is maintained by previous owners.
    2 points
  9. I am sorry..but maybe I am too skeptical. I see this whole import cars on foreign exchange as nothing but a rouse for their goons to bring in a few cars, horde it and sell it at exorbitant prices. Who in this country would have extra forex just laying around ? Not even the large companies do as they have reinvested any residual forex or are keeping it to stay a float.As for Sri Lankan expats, at least those I know, simply do not want to send in money to the country as we are already having trouble getting what we have out of the country no matter what the need is. Whatever is actually being sent is to support families. I know quite a few who are actually paying tuition fees for their relaives' kids because family in Lanka cannot do anything. As for the whole list, again, I think as Quiet said, it is just a bunch of theoreticians theoretising rather than coming up with solutions. I mean...the ship has already sunk right ? Isn't this just a mute excercise to see how fast the already sinking ship has already sunk ?
    2 points
  10. Shouldn't these guys be spending their time in working witht he government to actually come up with strageties to improve the country's economy (like..for example...trying to build up tech services, etc...) rather than waste time on compiling lists of vehicle prices ? Easiest is do what we do in pharmaceutical supply chains...set it at cost + a %
    2 points
  11. Personally I'd pick the FD3. I know hybrids are scary for some but cars like the FD3, GP1 etc have matured now. Nothing wrong with the G11 - it's a lumbering but comfy car. FD3 is more bang for the buck, much more fun to drive , looks better (entirely personal). I see @Dee Jay has chipped in with his FD3 wisdom. So you have a lot of info about the FD3. Good luck with your purchase.
    2 points
  12. If you are planning on long journeys then indeed hybrid would be value adding especially with the petrol prices these days.. The real world fuel consumption would depend on the car's condition and how you drive.. I get around 20kmpl (-/+ 2kmpl) in long journeys varying based on the time of day (as in if you are running in the mid day scorching heat it could reduce to 18kmpl at times and be 22kmpl if its early morning or evening). In Colombo city traffic I have experienced efficiency levels ranging from 9kmpl to 15kmpl plus depending on the traffic condition. I haven't done any hybrid battery related repair for the last 5 years so my battery is not in the best health. Car's with newly repaired batteries seem to get better efficiency in long journeys and in city traffic than mine.
    2 points
  13. Since I have ownership experience with the FD3 I will talk about it.. The FD3 is technically advanced for its time both inside and out with the digital speedometer, two tier meter cluster etc and will look modern compared to the G11. It will offer better handling, good pulling power and fuel efficiency. Comfort is also good and it has independent rear suspension and all 4 disc brakes. Brakes are electronically boosted therefore would feel like a modern car. The interior is spacious and the materials are good and well put together. Being a hybrid the maintenance might be a bit expensive than the G11.. The issues mainly concentrated on the hybrid battery and most of the cars have now got the batteries swapped so if you buy one that is properly maintained then no worries on that front. The FD3 UK model will have 8 air bags and cruise control and the FD3 JDM models which were optioned by the Japanese owner will have Adaptive Cruise Control and City Brake System plus keyless entry etc. If the daily commute involves going through areas that requires good ground clearance you may want to avoid the FD3 as it has only 135mm of ground clearance.
    2 points
  14. This is an issue with the Insurance companies, they are trying to increase the premium even on vehicles that the insurance was done recently. My suggestion is to get an independent value from a vehicle valuer and give that to the insurance and also ask them in case the value comes down if they will reduce the premium from your next insurance.
    2 points
  15. The new Sylphy e-Power....no idea whether it will be introduced in Japan and this has, in some markets, been the Sunny. Looks nice...
    2 points
  16. Toyota Tundra Commercial with all the rough tough Toyota's of yesteryear.
    2 points
  17. Grand Theft Auto: The Trilogy - The Definitive Edition will be released on November 11, Rockstar Games has announced. Additionally, Rockstar confirmed plans to launch some of the games on Game Pass and PlayStation Now, detailed plans for physical releases, and shed new light on the various upgrades and improvements included with all three games: GTA III, Vice City, and San Andreas. Starting with the release date, the $70 compilation package will be available across PS4, PS5, Xbox One, Xbox Series X|S, Nintendo Switch, and PC through the Rockstar Games Launcher on November 11. A physical edition for Xbox Series X|S, Xbox One, Nintendo Switch, and PS4 is coming on December 7. The press release made no mention of a physical version for PS5. Soundtrack: O Mio Babbino Caro (Remix by Hudson Mohawke)
    1 point
  18. Get the bushings replaced with original.. You should be able to source them T#c M#t#rs, S#pr#m# Motor H#us# etc. If you are not satisfied with the job done on your rack you may want to consider the famous rack repair place in Negombo..
    1 point
  19. Anyone got down parts from Amayama recently? Do they deliver via courier or we have to go to the customs? Any tax payable?
    1 point
  20. this will lure the crooked exporters and undiyal people to bring down their residual forex to country. no proper exporter or expat will do this. The people looking forward to import vehicles and pay taxes in FCY are already offering their dollars at 240 - 245 rupees , that is almost 20% more than the quoted rate. There are no reasons for them to change the dollars at 200 rupees and price the vehicles at Rs. 200 per dollar instead they will convert the dollars at 200 but price the dollars at 240/245 when selling the vehicles. This might create negligible impact on forex inflow but not with reduction of the vehicle prices. Being in the financial industry I have already noted small - medium level crooked exporters and undiyal people have started to save their dollars in foreign countries anticipating to import vehicles with that money and sell it at huge margins. Theories works well only with educated genuine government and people. after all we have a crooked government with crooked people
    1 point
  21. Honda teases a 6 speed MT for the new Integra ❤️ RSX Type S carpet ❤️❤️❤️
    1 point
  22. Good for you with the great fuel millage as it will be very critical in the coming few weeks with a hike in prices around the corner. You had shared some good advice or me with my N16 - well we broke off 🙂 .... 5 years with her, and I had it .. not my type ..... Got back to a Mazda again..... with a Axela - Hatchback ...... feeling 8 yeas younger already......
    1 point
  23. Car is a bluebird eu13 Auto Petrol 1800cc engine. Measured it twice after driving 100km's each and first time it gave 11km per litre and second time 10.1km per litre in city traffic. This is unbelievable. None of the 4 Nissan cars I have driven gave more than 7km's per litre in city limits and this is giving over 10... Sooo.. is something wrong with the car? How can this happen?
    1 point
  24. Matroska is correct. The engine should capable enough to pull the load without stress to gain fuel economy. My RAV4 does 8kmpl in city with 2.4 engine. So be happy with your fuel figures
    1 point
  25. Actually what I meant was that the Odometer must be having a calibration issue (car shows a higher mileage than what it actually is) could happen due to wheel sizes being changed or with wear and tear. My old Samurai had the same kind of issue it used to show 28kms on my way to work whereas it should have been around 23kms and even the speedo used to show a higher speed than the actual, I never got around to fixing it (supposedly a DIY thing where you take off the speedo and adjust).
    1 point
  26. Well its a nice car, since you have had experience with an Audi you may not feel its very expensive to maintain like others may say. Common issues - I would say you got pay a bit of attention to the interior as the plastic surfaces may become sticky and you will see a lot of small small parts missing and specially the power shutter and power mirror switches would be faded. There was an issue with the ABS system which was common to the W211. Check on Supercharger. Be ready do some seat covers. Spares - D*MO will have most parts as Mercedes still manufacture parts, if you want OEM you maybe able to get from the other specialist MB shops around Colombo. Check Up - I would recommend D*MO to do a thorough check up and you can also get an estimate for the work that needs to be done which would be beneficial. Other places will also be able to give a report but you wont be able to get an estimate. Its a nice car, but I would prefer the E200 over the E240, drove one to Jaffna and back, must say its very comfortable and was a good drive. Fuel economy I got round 10kmpl on that trip and it was a 240 if I remember correct. Some came loaded (Panoramic sunroof with solar panels to keep the interior cool, both side memory, Rear Seat Entertainment, Push Button Start on the gear lever, CD Changer etc). These were much quieter than the later generation cars with the Turbo engines when in idle. Cons - Dont expect it to be sporty. It has that majestic Pappa look so depends on how you look at it. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  27. @Piyumal Welcome to the forum. Try this 1F965604
    1 point
  28. Not sure when you did the first AC repair, if they truly refilled with 1234yf refrigerant. Or if they had done a shoddy job with filling with r134a instead and haven’t changed the compressor oil to match r134a refrigerant, then it’ll badly hit on the compressor. as I read, the system can run on either 1234yf or r134a, BUT compressor oil needs to be changed accordingly as well. Else it’ll fry the compressor sooner or later.
    1 point
  29. Adaptive front lights should work based on the load of the car just like a gyro sensor sought of thing (IMO), I am pretty sure you can adjust the range and spread manually by turning a screw in the headlights like in the good old days. European vehicles came with auto range and spread adjustability based on camera's (I think radar cams if no mistaken was used on the MB Multibeam headlights and they could not be adjusted manually by a layman).
    1 point
  30. Hi Mr Sylvi. Thank you for your response despite your ill-health: I hope you feel better. And yes the De Soyza building has unfortunately been completely demolished. Its too bad, but as it was located on premium Colombo real estate I guess that was to be expected. Hopefully the the majority of the money from the sale of the land goes towards something fruitful that is beneficial and not into the pockets of our greedy politicians... Roar media did a pretty informative piece on it which I shall attach below incase you are interested:
    1 point
  31. Mr. kavvs. My long delay in reply was I was not feeling in good health, I used to log in to A/L on and of not regularly. Yesterday I came to know that building is completely demolished and I was unable to get any more information about same. Sylvester Wijesinghe Sylvi.
    1 point
  32. That doesn't seem to look like an active spoiler if you zoom in to it. But those types of spoiler arms do seem to be the more sought after options (even ultra expensive spoon spoilers etc have the same mounting arm). I beleive the reasoning is that the light weight and thinner arms create less drag enabling better design of the wing itself. Also, it allows for cheaper engineering of making it move (be active as you suggested) So who knows...they could be using such an arm just for that... It could be that the arms are carbon It could be that it actually is active although not visible It could be that since this is just a test mule they are flaunting they still have not designed a proper wing (or atleast mounting arms).
    1 point
  33. No..it won't be the end of the world and your car will not explode, but it also depends on your car. If you remove your existing battery without looping in an extra 12v battery the settings of your car will get reset. In most average cars this resetting will be as simple as the clock losing its time or the radio losing its programmed radio stations. However in some, mostly modern and some high end older, cars; it may lose settings for things like its security system/immobilizer and even various control systems if the battery is left disconnected long enough. This will make the car unusable and require it to be taken to the agent/specialist-garage on a carrier or have them come to you to reset and reinitialize everything.
    1 point
  34. Go with the Lancer, Japanese reliability. Kia agents says put 95 octane !! and all repairs are expensive with specialist garages same is for the ford. Dont know why you decided to do for car now. there are rental once. Good luck with the search.
    1 point
  35. Regardless of having a CVT tranny, S mode gives you goose bumps 😍
    1 point
  36. Great project dude! I planned to integrate an Arduino in my lancer wagon. Keep the Arduino hidden with the ability to track the car, warn about speed, door not locked, battery, oil, temper and stuff. Efi conversion is interesting. I'd like to do the same. Keep us posted. Good luck with your project 👍
    1 point
  37. Ok so this is not a diet post. It's been a year since the EP71 went through a major modification. I've been putting off writing this - but better late than never. So here goes! In my previous blog post I mentioned that the humble 2E engine was really nothing to write home about and I did mention how it like many old carbureted engines would develop weird symptoms of it's own. Around 3 Months into ownership I was a little tired of the ailing engine and when it failed the emission test I was looking forward to get that sorted. I had initially thought of doing a 4EFTE swap but that was really stretching my budget and to be honest I was in a bit of a hurry to get the project rolling so I decided to settle for a 4EFE. Around Christmas time (2019) I managed to source a complete 4EFE Engine (off an EP91) with an Automatic gearbox (with ECU and wire harness) combo in Kandy. But a few days of Christmas revelry ensued and when I call the seller the ECU and the wire harness has been sold. Undeterred I decided to go for the engine and gearbox combo and source the ECU separately since the engine and gearbox was priced quite fairly. A trip to Kandy on a poya day in a Mahindra Bolero and we were able to haul the 4EFE home. (This also provided me my first Bolero driving experience - it was surprisingly fun. The 2.5 L engine on that's pulls really well). The choice of gearbox was something I lost a wee bit of sleep about - but eventually decided an Auto was ok as the main aim of the car was to be a beater, a nimble city runner and a lendable car that anyone could drive and whenever I had masochistic thoughts I could always borrow my dad's Datsun B110 and feel depressed about my diminishing stick driving skills. So it was eventually a very easy decision. With the engine and gearbox secured I asked my mechanic to start work on the car - while I source the ECU. And then I had to travel overseas for work for a couple of months. During this time my friend managed to source a recon steering column and shaft from an EP91 . This was 2020 now and Covid 19 happened. I barely made it home before the borders were closed. For the next 3 months the project stalled (sadly during this time a rat had managed to chew one seatbelt while the car sat at the mechanics) Around June things were getting back to normal and the project recommenced in earnest. Eventually we managed to source an ECU and wiring harness from a guy who stocked his parts in an old shed in his parents house deep deep inside the backwaters of Minuwangoda. After rummaging through a pile of car parts in the shed at 9 PM in the pitch dark, with the thrilling possibility of being bitten by 32 different species of indigenous snakes, we finally managed to find the wiring harnesses and a few more parts we needed. There was a few more things to be sorted - such as the condenser, A/C compressor, break and accelerator pedals and also the gear cable. Being a Toyota parts were quite easily found. The gear cable though was a bit tough to find and eventually we found out that a slightly modified AE110 gear cable would do the trick. Below are a few pictures of the engine swap. Transporting the Engine in a bolero The Original engine was a 2E with around 80Hp which was reasonable for a car that weighed 720 Kg. The old 2E being taken out. Out with the old - in with the new : 4e about to go in. The retro-style gear shifter that came with the Automatic versions of the EP71 would have looked a lot cooler than the EP82/91 gear shifter unfortunately which looks slightly out of place with the boxy/spartan interior of the car. Notice anything weird in the first pic? Things got tidied up a bit before I took the car for emission tests. Another change that I was not quite able to capture was the power steering conversion - which was basically swapping in an EP91 Steering column Tune in for the next post - where I will write about the overall driving experience.
    1 point
  38. Small heads up on few coming maintenance work, The Auto Gear oil change is due now. I've shared the details about the previous instance in this thread before. Will update the details of prices to get a comparison. Engine tune-up - will share the details if something new comes up. Need to replace the horn. I think one is busted. Now the horn sounds like a horn of a scooter. Thinking of putting a set of BOSCH Europa horn. Yes, yes, too loud and not suitable for a sedan, but I'm fed up with these lane hogging morons who wont give way. Need the big guns to chase them off. f**k em!!! Two repairs are also due. Looks like AC cooler is busted. Noticing a hissing sound from inside the dashboard and gradual reduction of cooling. Need to replace the rear brake cylinders as the repair kit has had its time.
    1 point
  39. Here's some captures of Mylady 😁 Tried adding on my profile and link it here since i didn't want to spoil the thread but could find such a option. Car was almost in stock condition when i bought. Since then i've add below mods 1) Spoiler (Fiber) - 14K with paint from Sampath Stickers ( had to redo the paint job with another 3K). Original plastic spoiler would cost around 85K. 2) Paint alloy wheels with gloss black and calipers with red - *6K for paint job (local shop). Before this 16'' stock alloy wheel were silver color. I'd love to go disc brake on rear wheels but as any once done that on a Ex? and how costly would it be
    1 point
  40. Still to watch F9 & I'm bored already 😄 On the number of bearing balls, I haven't experience any difference in my short driving time after the repair. Will update here if i get anything. Adding few pictures of the repair
    1 point
  41. CV Joint replacement Hello Gents! Here's my story short. I've been a Toyota car owner for 5 years and decided to give a chance to car enthusiastic inside me to go for a Lance ex. So i've done it (special thanks for wife's approval ) and now I'm a proud owner of 2014 Lance Ex . I've bought the car 2 months back with 121K mileage on it. It was with 2nd owner and most of the running repairs were completed. So far its been a pleasant experience with the car for me. However i am missing the low maintenance cost on my Toyota given that i'm tight on budget after insurance payment and all. Going back to the thread, Kudos to everyone who started this and your information helped a lot for me. So it felt like my duty to add back my experience here so one day it will be useful for someone One month after i bought the car, heard some *tuku tuku noise on hard slow cornering. Initially thought it was from front shocks but as per one of relation who owns are garage told me it was definitely the CV. I had him inspected the joint, previous owner has replaced the boots but not the joints. I wanted the change the as soon as possible since I'm driving long distance often & sometimes in windy roads. He (my relation) told me that there would be spares to be easily found ,but without knowing the inner no of teeth's/groves its hard to find the exact part. So i found this thread and found that @trinity has mentioned the exact outer and inner groves of the CV. But as per what i read his was CY2 where as mine was CY1 and the Mitsubishi part numbers were different for the two models CY2: 3815A169/3815A170 CY1: 3815A454/3815A459 So i had no choice other than cutting open the cv to check the inner groves, for my luck/unluck its the same grove number as CY2, so i called WIMAL MOTORS MORATUWA where Trinity got his and guess what!, they dont have the part in stock. They checked with their supplier & informed me they would get the part within two weeks and it will cost more than 20K for once piece. I called UniMO and yes it is still correct, they dont have the "CV joint only" they only do the front axle replacement which cost 187K for once side. so for both sides it should be close to 400K with service charges. Well well well! at that point i though no way im going to pay my honest money to these buggers no matter what and decided to go for ordering the part from FEBEST (part number 0410-CY2) special thanks to @Hyaenidaefor the link and part number. But guess what!, you are correct trinity these things don't work out easily in car business, that's not how it happens lol. So FEBEST guys got my VIN and said the mentioned part did not match my vehicle . Now i had no where else to go. I had already contacted almost all the part shops in Sri Lanka and non the part matching my car. Then i was looking for a reconditioned part and reconditioned parts almost don't exist for this vehicle. Now with my car in garage for two days i was getting tensed and started measuring the dimensions of the removed CV joint and just like that It was exactly matching the description provided by FEBEST. So at this point i had to take a chance either to wait for WIMAL motors to get the part and do it myself. I took a chance, went with my instincts and ordered the part, they shipped via DHL express. 2 x CV joint with boot/greese/rings : LKR 16000 DHL Charges: LKR 14000 Taxes : LKR 22000 (with extra DHL charges for documentation) I got the part within 9 days of order placement and this mostly depend on the time taken for custom clearance in Sri Lanka. I was so nervous(couldn't sleep lol) until the part reached here and i wanted it to match dearly. My chance paid off and it was a exact match (sigh!!!!). I replaced both my joints, altogether it cost me around LKR 60000 for the whole job. Summary CV joint for CY1 & CY2 are same (Inner teeth = 30 / Outer teeth = 28/ Diameter = 59.5 mm) So that's my tale! hope someone find this information usefull! Oh! and almost forgot. Original CV joint had 8 balls and the new ones only had 6 balls. That was one of the reason i decided to change both joints. Noticed from the photos that there were only 6 balls in @trinity's new CVs as well, given that you have changed only once side, have you noticed any difference or issue with running on 6 ball CV? Thanks
    1 point
  42. 18-20L/100km is definitely something needs checking. As mentioned before start with Air filter. Once I found out Kia agent didn't replace the Air filter at the service but charged for it. So until you open up the box and check for ur self don't take the bill as proof. I haven't done any tune ups yet, only regular maintenance. And mine is the 2WD version. Not the AWD. So it may save a bit too on fuel, but not by a huge margin. There is a famous place in Pannipitiya - Malabe road who does Korean and Euro services, specially Land Rovers. Used to take my previous Rexton there, service is not bad. They do Kia Services too.
    1 point
  43. Hi Rohi, Sorry I missed your post dude. Open the inner part and clean using a good contact cleaner and fix. If not go to Hyb*** H*b. They charge Rs.9,000.00 for the whole job. PM me if you need more info and contact number.
    1 point
  44. Hi Kermit, Same thing happened to my friends Vezel 2014 and he replaced with a cost of Rs.28,000.00. Later we cleaned the old push start button by one of our electronic technician and fixed to another Vezel which indicated the same issue and it still running without any issue. now almost 10 months. I am using a GRACE 2014 and me too had the same issue and I fixed the Push start button which replaced from the 2nd Vezel after cleaning. My error indicator disappeared. cost me only fixing and scanning charge. We are now keeping one cleaned Push start button in our pool as stand by. LOL Try cleaning the contacts of your Push start button and fix. I am sure it will work as before.
    1 point
  45. Im bumping this thread up due to the plethora of new members who have joined autolanka to look for 1000cc options. Please note that if you are seeking what car to buy advice, please let us know your requirements. An example for a good question is: I am looking to buy a 1000cc hatchback car which can carry 5 family members and I normally drive 500km per month. I prefer good fuel economy but can compromise on comfort. Examples for poor questions are: 1. Should I buy a 1000cc Vitz or Baleno? - no requirements given 2. I need a car that is powerful, good fuel economy, comfortable, cheap to maintain and has good resale value - you cant have everything from one car 3. Should I buy BMW 520D or 318M Sport? - not an apples to apples comparison Also please don't ask us to choose a car for you. You wouldn't ask your friends to choose your life partner. Expect us to give advise to help you choose. At the end, it's your decision. Oh... if you seek our advise, you cant compare that with what car sale guys say. This is like going to a kattadiya to seek treatment for arthritis. If you wish to take kattadiya's treatment, don't come to us.
    1 point
  46. Your cars headlights are designed for 55/60w, this whole story of 90/100w bulbs producing less heat is just crap. They probably had a lot of higher wattage bulbs that they wanted to get off their hands (yes mazna has a history of doing this sort of thing). The heat produced from the higher wattage bulb will not melt your headlight plastic, but it will deteriorate the reflector surface which will only make your low visibility problem worse. Also higher wattage will draw more current meaning it will damage your wiring and relays. As for the visibility problem this is a design flaw in the cars headlights, not just in your case (search online) . The reflector have a tendency to scatter light and is not focused which is the reason why you feel they have less light. The alternative is to use a pair of fog lamps and use something like osram night breakers for the mains.
    1 point
  47. If you have Prius Japanese model, you can't change language. You may find some guys out there who convert Japanese display to English. I think it is bit risky. I don't know, its up to you. You can download English version Prius Gen. II Manual here http://john1701a.com/prius/prius-userguide_iconic.htm Some functions may little bit vary on your edition (S,S touring, Anniversary edition etc..) But, you can use this to identify and familiar with Japanese multifunction display. If you get familiar with it, it isn't hard to living with your original Japanese display. GPS not available here (even you converted your display), Audio system is partially English, so won't hard to manage it. A/C screen almost in English. Only thing is Phone and bluetooth connection. Let me show you how to connect Bluetooth phone. Please note that, this is 2008, 10th Anniversary edition. Your screen may be different than here. 1. Go to Phone screen. Press phone button on your steering or follow these steps, Press Info/G-Book button on the left hand side. Then, Tap phone icon on the screen. 2. On this screen, tap "setting" button on the left bottom Once you connect your phone, you can see it here (See top left corner) It also shows you phone battery level ,signal level and Bluetooth connection's strength (BT icon turns to red if signal level is low) Again, these info may depend on your phone model. 3. You'll get phone setting screen. From here, you can manage your phone book, switch between two or more phones/profiles, lock down phone functions blah blah blah... Just tap Bluetooth icon to connect your phone. 4. You'll see Bluetooth setting screen below. Tap on "connect" button. Make sure you turn ON Bluetooth on your phone before proceed. 5. Bluetooth connection screen appear and it is trying to connect with your phone. Your phone will prompt you to enter pass-phase at this time. Enter pass-phase displaying on the screen. If nothing happened within 10-15 seconds, search new Bluetooth devices on your phone. Once it found "HANDS FREE: (the device name displaying on the screen), connect it. you'll be prompted to enter pass-phase. 6.Once it connected, you'll get Bluetooth settings screen again. The button next to "Register" is for setup connection mode. There are two options, default is "Always connect" When you turn on your car next time, it will automatically connect with your phone. no need to follow above steps again.
    1 point
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