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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/17/2021 in all areas

  1. මේ තියෙන්නෙ මට උන සිද්දිය. 2019 දෙසැම්බර් 28 Taas Agencies (Pvt) Ltd. එකෙන් වාහනේට shock absorbers 4 දැම්මා (KYB shock absorbers ලංකාවට ගෙන්වන්නේ මේ සමාගමෙන්). වාහනේ මොඩ්ල් එකයි අවුරුද්දයි කිව්වම මට බඩු දුන්න, invoice එකේ වෙන model එකක් තියෙන්නෙ මොකද ඇහුවම, ඒකම තමයි insight එකට එන්නෙ කිව්වා, එතනම තැනකින් දාලම දෙන්නම් කියල මට shocks මාරු කරල දුන්න. මම ගොඩක් වෙලාවට තනියම වාහනේ යන්නෙ, ඉතාමත් හදිස්සියෙන් පිටිපස්සෙ දෙන්නෙක් යන්නෙ. ලඟදි පිටිපස්සෙ දෙන්නෙක් එක්ක යද්දි පොඩි බම්ප් එකක් උනත් ටයර් එක ඇතුල් පැත්තෙ ගෑවෙන සද්දයක් එන්න ගත්ත. නිකමට සැක හිතිල invoice එකේ තියෙන KYB part numbers, KYB online catalogue එකෙන් check කලාම වෙන model එකකට එන parts මට දීල තියෙන්නෙ, ඒවයි දිග වෙනස්. පහත තියෙනවා සම්පූර්ණ විස්තරේ, මම මේක ඉහත company එකට Email කරා, දවස් 05ක් යනකල් සද්දයක් නැහැ, අද call කරල කිව්වම mail එක ආවේ නෑ කිව්වා, පස්සෙ මම ආයෙත් පරණ mail එක forward කරා call එකේ ඉන්න ගමන්, ඒ පාර ලැබුන කිව්වා, උන් ඒක බලල විනාඩි 10කින් call කරල කිව්ව අපි insight එකට ගෙන්නන්නෙ මේක තමයි, හරි එක ගෙන්නන්න ගියොත් සෑහෙන්න ගානක් යනවා, සර්ගෙ ටයර් සයිස් ලොකු ඇති ඇතුලේ වදින්නෙ කිව්ව. මම කිව්වා KYB catalogue එකේ පැහැදිලිව තියෙනවා, එතකොට ඒක බොරුද කියල.. ඒකෙ එහෙම තිබුනට අපේ බොස් ගෙන්නන්නෙ මේක කිව්වා. ඔතනින් බඩු ගන්නවානම් shock absorber එකේ කොටලා තියෙන part numbers බලල online catalogue එකේ check කරල ගන්න. මලාට වැරැද්ද පිලිගන්නේවත්, නැවත හරි එක දෙන්නේවත් නැහැ.
    4 points
  2. I have a POCO X3 NFC. Bit of a heavy and bulky phone over my previous Galaxy M30S Did not see much of a difference over AMOLED of the M30S on colour accuracy. 120 Hz on the POCO is better if you are into games. POCO is a faster phone and has better chip set and does not lag when gaming like the M30S Bit concern on data speeds as there were few issues reported. Do not know whether it is the phone or our service providers.
    2 points
  3. Forget about Mark 2s....they are out of your budget..unless you can find a beater from the 80s...the Mark 2 platform acually will be alot easier (thus makes it chaeper) for you to get drift ready than something like a KE72 (also, a KE72 will slip he back out but that engine simply has no power to hold a slide...if you go for a KE72 you will have to upgrade the engine or at the very least go for a KE74. Box Lancers and the model before that or even old Galants B211, B310s are an option. Now...what exactly do you want to do with the car ? Just drift ? You won't be using it as a daily ? ALl of these cars if you spend enough money on it it can be made it to a fairly decent daily. If it is just a matter of earningto drift...jut get some beater...who cares...even something like a KE30/KE50 would work...weld the diffs if you have to (granted the diff will not last that long if you drive around on daily basis). Do not worry about the solid rear axle...even old AE86s, Crowns, MarkII/Chaser/etc...have solid axles and people drift with them. It is just another skill you learn to negotiate.
    1 point
  4. So you'll want an RWD car. Most cars in the sub 2 mill bracket would not be RWD. You can try to source a rare Trueno maybe. But really - it's your first car so here's a left field idea - spend a fraction of that budget and get yourself a Lancer Box - it's RWD, parts are a plenty and a simple basic car. Try out the basics first-and once you're done it won't be too difficult to dispose of it either. This is another option - and a slightly more interesting option than what I have mentioned - just that you'll need a bit more time, money and patience with this.
    1 point
  5. Considering the current market situation, I`d say a KE72 wagon.. But it`s a solid axle at the back, so would need to get the axle sorted properly so that it doesn't wheel hop/axle tramp.. Something like an early Mark2 would be nice, but not sure about the prices at the moment.. A BMW e36 would also work, plenty of drive-train options to mix and match.. Whatever the car it is, it`s not an easy thing to do mind you. The cheapest option is to get the diff welded, because good 100% locking differentials are very expensive to build.. Even then, you need quite a bit of power to drift/power slide properly, unless the road surface is wet or the tires are very skinny.. you can make suspension geometry changes to make a car drift easily, but it`ll be a bitch to drive on the road then.. I would say just buy a car and try to have some track time first, think about drifting later on.. .
    1 point
  6. Aiyo you ruined a guys dream to do drifts down the mountains in Kandy. It would have been a better story than [email protected] Tokyo Drift.🤦‍♂️ Some say they can hear him screaming round the Kandyan mountains at night, All we know is he could have been Kanata Katagiri but with all the flair from the Pimp my Ride era. @Jason Diaz just pulling your leg mate, its your money, your car, your petrol and your life choose to live and enjoy them without hurting anyone.
    1 point
  7. LOL..? yeah nah, not lol..! 😄
    1 point
  8. Actually, your reseponses show that my instincts were spot on. Well...if you are mature...the first thing you would realise, especially if you are collecting and planning your finances accordingly like you say you have been, is that there needs to be a proper plan...your list does not show a plan at all. It is just random stuff (which makes you come off as a whiny teenager who plans on making a show car for all flash wih daddy's money). You say you are collecting money to get it done...well...if so this is exactly why you need a plan ! If you wait till you collect all the funds to get it done..it will never happen because it costs so much. So you need a proper roadmap. Also, you say you muscle cars are expensive and JDM builds are cheap. Its cheap only if you use Chinese crap to make a plastic bucket like the ricer boys do. You say you have been looking at sourcing a 2JZ engine...if you have any idea of the prices of a 2JZ you would not have made such a childish statement. A good mid mileage 2JZ-GTE from a running, recently deregistered car can cost anything from 600,000 to 800,000yen (or more) to just BUY. Yes...you get ones for 200,000yen as well but those are usually very high mileage engines or ones that have been beated then hell out of and requires rebuilds. Yes...there are ways to get the engine cheaper (like some people here already do and have); but if you had properly researched on building your dream car beyond looking at pictures and fantasizing about what you want to stick on there you would know what the cheaper alternatives are. Then there is also what you said about the gearbox. Andrew ? As in Grey ? Anyway...Formular Drift cars usually have sequential shift gear boxes (just like 99% of race cars out there. You should know that SS gearboxes usually run in to like 1.5mil yen to buy new. You can get used ones but used ones are typically either broken and worthless (repairing costs as much as a new one) or have been upgraded and dialed in so much that it costs a lot more than a new one. So yeah....stop thinking that your buildis going to be cheap and the JDM builds are cheap. Also, you say a Lamborghini, etc...is out of your budget...but you do realise that your GT86 project is going to cost you nealry as much right ? Based on your own statements, I am sure everyone here like me am imagining you have VERY deep pockets...a GT86 is NOT cheap..and you cannot lease or buy it off a car loan if you plan to modify it (because through these options you do not own the car, your bank does and you cannot change it..) so you have to outright buy it...thne the parts you want are going to cost almost as much as another car. Then there is he matter of fabrication and labor....there are only a very few garages who can do a good job with bringing out the JZ engines. They are not cheap. Albeit, they are all car loving nice guys that they will offer you a lot of advice and thrown in freebies as well. Then there are the engine and gearbox costs plus the auxiliary stuff all this will need. Secondly, I don't think you actually know what true "JDM" car culture and tuning is. It is not a matter of sticking parts bought from a shop (although I do admit with most of these home garage shops going big time that is what it has resulted to for most people). There are plenty of people in SL who have built amazing cars and drift ! They did not whine about policies and stuff, instead they found a way to get the job done. This is exactly how JDM tuning started during a time modification of cars was socially and legally looked down upon. Exactly what enthusiasts in SL are going through. The beauty of 99% of the JDM tuning parts out there is that it come right up to crossing the line but it doesn't. Extreme cases are aggressive kits like some RB kits but those are meant for track use (the documetation itself says so). You should know that all those cars you see in Japan with crazy body kits, exhausts, stances, etc....when it is time for their road inspection all the parts get taken off and the car is put in stock form for the inspection.Yes..it is cheating the system, but police only stop them very rarely or at occasional meets when things get rowdy. The belief is that even with these things on, the owners will behave responsibly and not be a burden on others. There is nothing wrong with being an amateur. We all are..and some have progressed to be professionals...but we were all newbies once. The difference between a mature newbie with true intent at heart is they know the how big the task is of a conversion and listen to others to solve problems and make a plan. The immature ones are opposit of that, no plan. Their plan is to have a ton of money and then just drop a whole bunch of parts in and hope it world. When it doesn't or those with experience offer insight...they yell and scream about what they want and throw tantrums. To answer your question.... Make a plan ! You do not have one ! Yu mention engines, random transmissions and wheels and utter fluff like neoen lights and sound systems. I say random stuff because things do not make sense...you want a high power engine..but nothing about brakes or a drive train that can handle it. You mention an extra wide RB body kit, but then you do not look at what adjustments are needed for the axle and wheel widths to actually fill out those arches (and that has a bearing on power..if you hade done your reasearch on power and putting it downn you would know why these cars got body kits to make them wide...it is not just to look cool). Then you need to answer some questions for your self....why do you want an I6 or V6 engine ? After all, if what you really want is to drift: you can even make a box lancer drift (again..strange because the two engines have completely different characteristics to how it feels and delivers power). Why do you want a 2JZ ? Why will a 1JZ not work for you ? Why can't you fix the boxer engine to put out more power ?<drifting is not just about having a billion HP at the wheels> As long as you keep putting out random thoughts and desires out there..no one can tell you what is possible. Not all dreams are practical in reality. To start with the choice of car...ifyou want to stick to a 2JZ...then you can go with what most of the drift boys in SL have done....get a Chaser/Mark II/Cresta/Crown and build that up. Other off base alternatives are BMW 5 or 3 serie. Albit more difficult than swapping a Toyota. Then there is also the Nissan route...Glorias, Cedrics, Laurels with RB engines dropped in. A GT86 is a high costing car in SL and you are embarking on a risky project that the car literally cannot be brought back from. Affects resale..affects daily usability, etc...(yes..I said daily usability....drift favoring suspension can be very harsh on normal roads unless they are readjustd to stock form (I have TRD sport springs on the back of my AE85...period correct, hugs the rear like a lizard on the wall and breaks off just when you want it to...but literally the most uncomfortable rear of all the Trueno/Levins in the country..then there is the sound, etc...) If you want smaller cars...sadly you are out of luck. There simply are not that many RWD cars around other than things like B2 and 3 hundred series Sunnies and a few E70 coupes/sedans/liftbacks. Another option would be to go with a KE74 van build with a 4A-GE or even a 2ZZ conversion. As for body kits...you can have a body kit and keep it subtle enough to have it pass under the radar of the cops. Just modest wheel arches, etc...better if it is somehting that the manufacturer themselves had offered (and keep a copy of the brochure in the car). Exhaust...again...modest ones are okay and good ones really do not make that much noise unless you are at full throttle. Not the loud beet cans that the ricers put. THose are annoying anyway and becomes a pain after sometime (especilly when inside the car). Suspension: Proper kit with proper coilovers that you can adjust camber etc, as needed. That way you can set aggressive camber and height adjustments when you are on track but leave it normal when driving daily.
    1 point
  9. We have a U13 Bluebird diesel, mechanical parts are available around Kandy and Kurunegala but body and interior parts are rare. We ripped off a 2.0L SSS in Japan and brought down the parts. The 2.0L SSS has different bigger brakes, slightly lower suspension, different interior with more body hugging seats, wood trim on the dash, more seat driver seat adjustments, rear seat console and brown tinted glasses. There are 1.8L SSS variants in SL but highly down any of the 2.0L made it to SL.
    1 point
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