tiv

not all parts, some bits, many minor variations, the engine that came in the montero sport is 4d56U, the power figures and bits are different from the sportero there are many variations in the egr, egr cooler, turbo, and intake design in various L200 models, the UK L200s that came in have different specs, except the raging bull, which has the same engine code as a montero sport, same egr BUT the turbo is different, transmission is different, and intercooler is smaller due to an oil cooler which the montero doesn't have windshield, bonnet / hood / engine mounts, most 4d56 engine etc same, front supports are different, shock absorbers are different, overall l200 fenders, rad, intercooler, ac condenser, bumper and grill are different, engine mounts also different based on the engine, L200 had a smaller intercooler and ac condenser, montero sport is dual ac hence a larger ac con, and a larger intercooler front supports frame and front chassis bits are the same, rear chassis parts are different, montero sport is shorter and on coil springs, as I recall everything was made in Thailand

+1

1000cc and Everything has the mild hybrid system, MZ is the fully loaded one if I recall, prices have plummeted due to crazy low demand. There are cars in sales from 2018 July try a personal import or verify auction records, if you go inquiring about one from a sale they’d pretty much worship you give you everything as they are so hard to sell.

It's not a small car, massive lump of metal, a moderate collision on the front end would take out the above parts, doesn't make it a write off, no spoken frame chassis damage either, and being sri lanka people go to the extent of replacing , rebuilding chassis to save their investment, so this is nothing, The above can be done with a sign board or a moderately sized dog, 4 foot tree branch given the right speed.

Wiring loom is there.

Not cheap to maintain mate, expect 50k per standard lube service with / without running parts, parts about 40% more to jap parts these are large cars so fuel economy isn’t your friend either, I have a friend who works for the agent, in Sri Lanka everything is costly, he said it’s like maintaining a newer merc, in terms of costs, but definitely reliable. vague answer I know for a vague question, also if you are referring to 2019 models, lovely cars though

The way you’ve worded the question makes me feel that someone might make you end up with a lemon as long as it’s cheap, I suggest you talk to a person who knows the car scene in person before deciding, just because a car is cheap to run doesn’t mean it’s good, and will not save you financially,

Release the handbrake, rock the vehicle a bit, the P or N will appear, probably the parking pin is not engaged as you pulled the handbrake too soon.

So 2L turbo engine, nothing major to worry.

1. For an LJ78, check engine light is like having a Bluetooth headset on a dinosaur, so don’t worry, is it a 1kz? 2. Turbo timer not mandatory, but not a bad practice either, meaning some manufacturers recommend allowing 10 to 30 seconds for the manifold and the turbo to cool after HIGH REV motorway driving, which is again rare here unless it’s a non stock turbo, Toyota afaik has no issues with turbo timers. 3. I’m not sure exactly how the 4wd patten for yours is, 2H - for tarmac, least traction, can go to top speed, 2WD 4H- for traction mild/moderate , mud rocks etc, not for pavement driving, unless wet road or loss of traction, if it’s not an awd based system ( LJ70S DIDNT HAVE), driving in tar roads even when wet in 4H can damage transmission during turns, low speed only 4L- engaging the 2nd gear set / transfer case for extreme traction, mud bogging, rock crawling, certain supervised towing, at very low speeds, exclusively off road or relevant scenarios you may have a diff lock as we’ll center or rear which engages in 4L by a switch, for heavy mud or cross axle events. Try to source a Japanese owners manual relevant to the gearbox you have, or perhaps you can share more details of your car. Basically do everything in 2H, when off-road use 4H, use 4L when things are really bad. 4wd gears may get stuck showing lights on after disengaging levels, drive a few meters backwards to unwind the transmission.

Don’t they have an additional injector to spray a mist to the valve? and isn’t this due to the egr? both my Mitsubishi’s have egrs and I’ve cleaned them every 20k, this is for diesel though, the carbon buildup was horrendous!

Everyone should see the prado one, hilarious And defender As for Value for money, my opinion is subjective Say a prado 2015? You buy it for 16mil, run the nuts off, sell it for maybe 15mil in 5 years So much car, poor value for money as it's like a 5mil car in japan, we pay the taxes we run it, but we make it back when selling allowing a certain upgrade or to consider it an investment, at the going rate the above idea is short lived though Say you buy a vitz, good value for money in a sri lankan context, 1 mil car in japan, and probably can sell like a few 100k less and make it back, Assume the car op is into here, you buy it for what 6mil? Or whatever quoted Obviously you get into a commitment of keeping it for like ? 4 to 5 years or longer, assume you do 50km a day, 20 to 30k km a year, by 3 years you ll be off warranty and enjoying the perks of chinese car ownership The car being cheap doesnt mean parts are cheap, parts being brand new too, And being limited to the agents, parts take time to be found and imported as the vehicle ages and agents finish selling their quotas So then the value for money is debatable isn't it? If there are owners here of the above car, we dont have any intention to undermine you or your purchase, im sure you've got into an investment as the above after much consideration and reviewing the pros and cons of a Chinese vehicle, its just a friendly discussion, for noobs to read in the future.

Congrats btw you made the safest choice

Is it a single cab or double cab or smart cab? Ranjith Motors Kurunegala famous for cabin conversions, I've seen them myself, but will charge u a premium, value may may not be hurt depending on the degree you are attempting.

What I meant by average wheels was the design / style which not the quality Thus I have clarified in the below comment to OP

Don’t go by the centre cap, they can be changed, go by the emblem on the rear, Usually it’s written in the non logo font or sometimes the logo, assume Honda u ll see the emblem casted in, for Suzuki it’s just the letters in a normal font casted in, oz has their name all over casted In, enkei has there logo with or without letters, BBS just the logo, so on, Mitsubishi wheels are mostly by enkei so u ll see their logo as well. There are other good brands that are non famous as well, so if you see something take pics once you find a set, try to do an internet search, you ll see the wheel mostly on sites like yahoo japan or crooober, and can get more info on it, the seller here will have no clue mostly, 14 and 15 start at like 15000 LKR for 4.5 to 5.5jj and can go to like 40000 for nice sets,

Quality is in par with oem manufacturer regulations, average in style or design, These are the best to go for, as they would be the real brand, anything sold here as brand new with a famous name is most likely a replica or if 100% authentic with a famous style brand new, expect a price above 80k starting brand new for 14" and above

JDM meaning japan domestic market, but that's not the case for alloys Other than the oem wheels that came with cars, the aftermarket scene in japan is so dense there are various marques of alloy wheels that were used and then removed, this bought cheap and imported in huge bulk to sl forms the japan wheel market here Either way they are of different quality but most certainly of better quality than chinese wheels sold here also so called replicas of famous styles, so go for a Japan set, Try to find an oem set with a brand behind, example enkei bbs works oz etc, not the fancy popular models, but the above companies make average wheels and brand them behind for various models of cars of japanese manufacturers. They ll be cheap as well but it will be hard to find a mint set, likely scuffed and all, so expect a paint job. Try to find a set that came with tyres, thereby the wheels will be less bruised, but make sure to remove the tyres and examine all over,

There is very little to criticise about that generation of Hilux, if its 2010 it's the 5L engine, no big issues, most likely a toyota lanka import it will be manual, very robust, just try to find something less than 150000km and check the tub for corrosion, that's it.

The 3 main uk pickups Navara, L200, Hilux came 4.6 mil to 6 mil range, Hiluxes have appreciated in value, L200 maintaining figures, Navaras have plummeted, Speaks a lot, not a wise decision Even A*W has had issues fixing navaras, esp rotting chassis, injector pump related complaints, so beware.

Check the auction sheets, get an inspection done, verify jaai jevic, inspect original documents and compare online Importing the vehicle is much safer. Even if import documents are shady, the inspection will reveal the car, VITZs are the most scammed up model to reach the country at the moment, most being wrecked cars or high mileage.

I can only recommended the above places, dont cut corners on the inspection as if they mess up, it's you who will penalised on the long term if the car causes problems, UK L200 and the locally imported sportero have a multitude of differences

Replied to pm