tiv

And a person knowing that the timing belt replacement is due and hearing a rattle probably from one of the cam bearings or adjusters, and yet failing to act you should not buy cars from people like that, imagine what else has been neglected

Oh yea I went through both aspects, bought a lemon, returned the lemon got a good one, wrecked the good one, had to find another good one

Just read the manual buy the battery , pry it apart, and replace em, it’s like putting batteries to a toy, you don’t need a specialist if not follow a YouTube video

Well I had to put a lot of effort to approach the so called agent, no proper response in regard to the model I seek, no replies to the mails, and the multiple msgs left to the hotline asking for sales personnel

While they charge almost 5 mil for a car that can be bought for 4.4mil or less

Only agents can bring and register a car as brand new, even if you bring a car with zero km and don’t let it touch the tarmac till rego, it will still be marked as reconditioned aka used in japan an instance this is going to come it to play is, no matter how high u insure the car, any claim including total wreck / write off , they will pay you only 80% of the car value or replacement part value if the part is brand new, as the car was reconditioned * used in Japan *

I am from kandy, making it worse, I just got down a Vitz with the same safety pack I could manually drop down the sensitivity using the display and google translator and now its not much of an issue, but the Suzuki one is uncontrollable and brakes haphazardly all the time, The radar options are the least of my concerns whilst buying a merc as I have no idea of how the maintenance goes and the reliability in this country, used only land rovers and japs and one Volvo which caught fire

Is D*MO the only place that can handle repairs on a newer merc? Also reliability?

Any reason?

Hi there, so wanted a few first hand opinions regarding the CLA 2017 or 2018/19 or a C200 from this era my parents are considering one thereby I have the most rookie questions to start with, as most of the burden is going to be mine to bear. 1. How are the maintenance costs? We’ve used Mercs abroad but never here so..... 2. Is it worth importing from the agents or a UK import or a JDM import? I know if it’s a black import there is a hefty premium to be paid from the agents 3. Does the new luxury tax or any luxury tax come into play with them? 4. How is the performance? Never had a cla, nor driven on. Comfort is obvious 5. How bad is the depreciation? It’s again obvious mercs don’t hold massive values for long in SL, but how bad will it be? would be nice to hear some real stories before I go to the agents and get in to their theatricals

The mounts are not as easily accessible as in this, will need a different specialised brace It will come to about 6 mil in the duty pattern, being expensive at the auction as well with the engine capacity

I’d like to add, the vitz has kinda good handling and feels very planted, but then again I’m used to old school suvs, does your car have steel wheels or an alloy set, if not I’d suggest a safe set of jdm alloys, a tad bit wider with the factory tyre size, my car came with Enkei factory alloys, they are butt ugly but came specced to the car, emblems and everything and I’ve decided to keep em, moving. Between Vitz s I’ve realized the wheels make a huge difference, my first car had steelies, I swapped em for some oz racing used wheels, I saw the difference the new one with the enkeis and a wider tyre feels even better, you ll loose like 35k on a used jdm set

Use genuine 3m VHB tape, will not fall off, and will fill into the grid area , take time and trim it precisely, but it will not be theft proof, if you drill it well it will shatter the emblem partially on removal so thieves will not touch it, but you ll have holes on your panel

Could be a port auction, look around in the documents, if it is expect corrosion and a once over

I’ve seen some as low as 8500 to 16k brand new, probably duplicates innit

How much do these cost?

We have discussed the this on many posts, do a search Hustler would be better in every aspect compared with the standard alto, bit costlier too though

35Nmwas something we gained by losing an air filter back in the day off road!

Knocking has very little to do with turbo wear, unless it’s some horrendous knock and there’s preignition in the turbo housing or reignition in the exhaust manifold / the afterburner effect Very less likely in such a small engine, it’s a tiny little turbo with very little lag, even if you put 92 to it, the ecu will not let the thing knock, will self adjust the ignition timing etc to keep things smooth In order to get the best performance and the engine probably has a higher compression ratio than the normal counterpart, so premium fuel is advised Do a search and note down the compression ratio and the Ron they require in factory. Most likely it’s 95 as most of the turbo Suzuki Keri’s were adviced to 5w30 oil and premium fuel normally they state anything below 89 as regular, and rest as premium , search the forum once irage commented very informatively I did test drive one of these and do not assume this is a comfortable kei for normal city driving / hauling suspension and seats are very stiff and is very rev happy, also not as economical as the normal one. Corners like it’s on rails Obviously all that power tweaking is going to end in compromise to longevity, so expect things when u attain higher mileages, but it’s a rewarding car, even small running repairs can turn into upgrades with performance parts etc Specific body Parts are VERY rare and expensive at the moment, so make sure u get full insurance and a very low mileage well sound example. Engine parts are also quite rare, A lovely little car in all, with something for the daily and many smiles for the weekend fun run.

You would have flipped when you saw this eh? Sleepless nights??

Did you try cleaning it?

Search the forum, lot of content used to be there from like 2007 to 2012

Using used shock absorbers would be really senseless, there is a shelf life for the pressurized rubber parts, which may have been removed from a 2000km car, which flipped or got rear ended and been in a container yard with water ingress for 5,6 years unladen with no pressure. just get the KYB replacements from a reputed supplier, most parts TL serves are just over priced distributer sourced stuff. Cutting corners or going paranoid on bits like this make you end up doing the same repair twice with no peace of mind. Its not like doing some engine overhaul, shock absorbers are not all that costly, especially in a car. It’s a typical run of the mil jap car, whatever the bit you use there is a threshold of comfort that you can achieve, which is very low.

I heard the Minerva brand is good