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tiv

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Everything posted by tiv

  1. Plenty for normal use, don’t expect it to pull like a 1kz 1kd prado or a 4m41 montero, or even the 2012 montero sports, or the UK double cabs that came in. It pulls more or less like a old pajero or a 2000s van, once the turbo spools up there is a minor pickup. Most suvs that came in to this country feel underpowered, even the petrol ones, other than the LC V8, 12ht LC troopies , Porsche’s and Nissan Patrols with gasoline engines, also partly due to the size and boat like lumbering feel, which these newer ones don’t have. another contribution is people now drive nippy cvt kei cars which are very rev happy and shoot off the line till like 40kmph, their front wheel drivetrain and small size make the larger conventional cars seem slower. Since they are all manual and parts are cheap, you can restore an engine to near new state and being manual you can rev the nuts off it. Just drive one and you ll realize, hard to explain , i’d say go for it, there’s no way you can go wrong other than having a lower resale market. But once the newer toys start breaking off older conventional suvs will pickup in value, it’s happening all over the world
  2. It’s a very hardy vehicle, look for something around 150000km, nothing further the low market is because they are manual, they don’t have the super select system and not that comfortable, rear brakes are disks in comparison to the newer model, with drums. Bit cramped inside for a SUV and mind you these are also modeled after the 2006 era L200 Trojan, front seating and dashboard feels just like a 90s double cab. My in-laws have one from new and the only repairs they’ve done is replaced turbo at 40000km, premature why, no clue why Timing belt, suspension is badly worn on theirs so Need a complete replacement. Looking at around 45000 for shocks 30000 for coils and bushes. They are slow, but very hardy lumps and quite good off road. You ll easily find a good one as plenty in Colombo that have never seen mud, Corrosion’s are common behind the rear wheel arches so look into that. body panels are extremely rare, so avoid ones with poor body condition mechanicals and running gear - ample in spares stocks at stores and agents. It’s powered with a mechanical pump 4d56t so needs no super diesel. Interior plastics are poorly made so expect gauge clusters to have crazing and cracks, yellowish plastics etc. speaker grills are also poorly made, shatter very easy cloth seats with very 90s styling, expect them to be worn out so u may need to refinish them. all in all very good choice in comparison to the oversized hatchbacks and wannabe suvs in the current day and age. An awesome vehicle to modify and has a good road presence. Your only problem will be it being slow. Cheers!
  3. Has anyone soundproofed their car in Sri Lanka? Are there any products here? Or by DIY means? Using some local foam or ?

  4. So true this, the new one just has too many wrinkles on the face! Lol so today I have this senior colleague of mine, pug collector pulling in to the car park in a 203 minter, gracefully; some old number, and my CBG 2016 Toyota had more body shudder and was louder than that vintage car. It was like Marilyn Monroe and weird al
  5. Pay the right people inside and you can change the model to Isuzu Alice as well
  6. As if they need another variant of this lol! And to ruin such a pedigree - glanza
  7. Behind many troopers in this island, lies ‘innards’ of a long lost Gemini
  8. Doesn’t sport mode help a bit? It’s a heavy car though for a 1NZ
  9. Look up for the following pages on fb Tuned I Chips rev tech tuners wickedep racing platinum auto spa youll get your answers and the path to choose
  10. Lol yea, the Mira and the Hustler both have hill assist, so they don’t roll back, but whereas the vitz and monteros roll back in D making it a bit interesting. I used to drive a defender with that heavy clutch, good times the clutch and the gearbox was so difficult to engage that it sometimes rolled back and rested on nearby trees and walls lol this was when they were a handful and V*P wannabes hadn’t screwed them up. Crude was the word
  11. You really have to learn to search the forum. Performance - there is none, slow noisy lump Faults- nothing major so far, safety system has shown faults sometimes but nothing major, we all gonna need engine mounts soon though, 2nd hand market- only thing this car has the colour you have chosen is one of the cheaper ones, white and orange being the costlier, so don’t let them overcharge you, it’s a nice colour though, has a good demand do not even have a slight hope of the mileage being 20000 to 30000 or lesser, as taught by some of my friends here and after extensive research 95% cars have done over 60000km to 80000km and have been clocked back. It’s nothing to worry though as cars in Japan have been looked after and the wear is way less. The other 5% being hand to hand personal imports and damaged cars repaired and sent. Find a good car and finish it off soon as the budget may do wonders with the prices soon enough
  12. B simulates engine braking, locks the cvt in a simulated position equal to 1st gear in a manual car so that the engine can slow / hold the car when negotiating a slope. B is meant to work In really bad slopes, like 5-10kmph not your average downhill route where you go like at 40kmph by accelerating in B the outcome would be the same as driving a manual car in 1st gear for a long time, will drink fuel, and if you revved hard could wear / overheat engine, but I think the rev cut is at 6500rpm, so nothing major. also B can be used to climb large inclines, not like Kadugannawa, somewhere you would climb at 10kmph or so, typical Kandy driveway sorta thing. I would suggest to read the owners manual via google translator or to download the Yaris manual as it is similar and read it up before you make a novice mistake somewhere (except engine). I guess you used the B gear like a manual quite often and the ecu and gearbox controls learnt it and is now running that way. Best thing reset the learnt stuff in the ecu by removing the battery and turning on a light or something to drain all the caps, reconnect and drive normally. Don’t use B unless you really need it. I live up a 30-40 degree incline and I haven’t used B Mode once in any car I’ve got up / down that. It is less likely you did any permanent damage. cheers
  13. Engine , gearbox most running gear are shared With the vitz etc, body panels may become rare. The model has a poor second hand market for now. Pls search the forum, it was discussed
  14. 1. Why? Of course mechanically possible but will involve a lot of custom work with ecu tuning, also will affect the value of the car in a questionable manner and will cost atleast 300,000 to scratch the surface than to be PROPERLY done. 2. It’s an automatic 3. Which engine do you have? And didn’t you consider an ECU remap for a minor power upgrade 4. Will affect reliability and longevity of other parts
  15. The 150 Prado was also offered with a 5l, and they are raped by keis three wheels and buses on the road until they pick up speed.
  16. Buy these or any old school off roader, if you have like 200,000- 400,000 to do a thorough once over with the mechanicals and certain body bits and at least a week of time to fiddle with, cheers
  17. Hi so, about the Mitsubishi’s, personally the above vehicles are really good, but would defeat your purpose on being a reliable tourer, see the montero sport, it’s not going to happen around 6mil, if there are cars, they’d be badly hacked or mileage turned, they take 200,000 plus cars and make em 100,000 and sell em, so if you buy one you ll have work, most of the true mileage ones are above 7mil , and owners are less likely to part with them cheap. Agent mileage records can also be cheated if you know the right people. and an older montero, same story, lot of pending work. Mostly . It’s not going to be cheap For both these either, the montero sport has very little aftermarket / recon parts so it’s mostly agent montero bits are by the hundreds but not cheap either So you ll be hunting for parts and doing repairs rather than going on this tour, I’d suggest something newer, cheaper and smaller, so you’ll have money to play around with, Incase something goes south. And something that will hold value
  18. Any suggestions on what oil to go on the Vitz, 1KR -FE,  36000km mileage (uncertain)

    with manual says - 0w-20, attached a screen shot , cleaned the PCV, will probably replace it later

    I have a feeling it burns oil as its common  with the 1KR series

    0w-20? 5w-30 or 10w-40 with something like castrol gtx? probably filled with 0w-20 in Japan and I feel its too thin, watery

    IMG_0160.PNG

    1. Show previous comments  9 more
    2. tiv

      tiv

      Further research, Unit#d Mot#rs use Valvoline 0w-20 on their Axia which has the same 1kr engine. 

    3. ghostwriter

      ghostwriter

      that's a new find. what is their oil change period though 5k or 10k if we gonna put the expensive full syn. oil might as well need to get the benefit of by having the oil changed after 10k kms. on a side note axia's 1kr has a higher compression ratio than the toyota's (if that matters)

    4. iRage

      iRage

      The slightly heavier oil my be better considering the ambient temperature...Also, your Vitz has a 1KR-FE whilst Peroduas used to have the 1KR-DE and now some of them have the 1KR-VE. The compression, etc...is slightly different

  19. Any 660cc engine in their latest form is sufficient to cover most hills in Sri Lanka as long as there is tarmac and the load capacity is retained. The case with the wagon r is that the adjuster is exposed to the elements in the wagon r whereas the other models that carry this engine have the isg tensioner covered up, of course the materials maybe subpar. another thing I have seen is most isg powered vehicles are driven like pigs in very high revs, whereas they were designed to be driven low rev and economically as per cvt setup and most economically but well maintained, fellas here thrash them like haice (dolphin) vans of yester year and use cheap parts, after ignorantly buying a car just for the sake, it would not be fair to blame the retailer unless he purposely cheated somewhere. One must do at least a mild form of research before buying a vehicle, at least ask about or take a mechanic like the good old days. No point blaming the seller the company or the country of origin after buying a problematic car by your own sane decision. And cars aren’t cheap here, it’s a lot of hard earned money or yet to earn money via a lease
  20. Not a pug fan, but I’ve always loved their aesthetics in this country 2 things are certain, you ll loose money on it when disposing it you ll loose money on it whilst maintaining it. In comparison to popular counterparts. Thus the decision is yours, Being a Euro itself outweighs the above.
  21. True about the passo but they have a rather low demand, The interior feels like a van and even the seating arrangement. Looks also like a cr41 But definitely far more refined, than a vitz where they have been trying to get that Toyota econo sedan feel like axio Corolla and the engine lets all of it down.
  22. They do around 8-10 kmpl Maintenance cost is NOT LOW Also I guess you are looking at used ones Either the 2014 lot or the 2007 2008 lot or the early 2000s old shape lot. Most of the above will have high mileage within the country and reasonable repairs. Parts are the bit scarce for the second gen so u have to go to agents at times. So its is not going to be cheap to run or not going to be trouble free. Keep a cash margin for repairs
  23. You can buy a F grade, 2015 or 2016 Fuel consumption is like 13kmpl , 92oc It's not exactly an upgrade, both are equally underpowered Vitz may look a bit better and be a bit more comfortable The difference is the size and cargo area 2nd row seating is cramped in the vitz in comparision The engine is so noisy u ll go crawling back to the wagon r, and the vibration will make you think it's an 80s townace, I'm sure the highest grade of wagon r will be far more refined than this.
  24. The most unrefined petrol car I’ve driven - Vitz KSP130 3cyl 1.0l

     

    1. Show previous comments  9 more
    2. tiv

      tiv

      Yes I could have bagged a 2018 Passo for lesser money, it was way smoother but, the interior looks like a van, the front end too, only the moda has a bit better front end but it didn’t feel worthwhile spending so much for one, the Suzuki was well off my reach. 

      Oh yea you must see the 3 pot on a cold start, it’s like an epileptic, the doors shudder if u open them till the engine warms up, it’s that bad. And this is with pristine mounts and fairly new rubber bits and the engine itself. Idk where it will be at around 200000km 

    3. matroska

      matroska

      @tiv - yeah the passo is a bit of an oddball even I hate the interior.A relative of mine brought one quite cheaply off  an old gentleman who imported one and had to sell it cos his family hated it so much. If you think of a car as a useful appliance then the  passo would make sense. The swift  is crazily expensive one with safety and everything is in the 5 Mil + range - a friend who wanted to imported one gave up the idea forked out a bit more cash and went for a civic instead. 

      The most eplileptic car i ever saw drove was  my wife's 2005 Perodua Kelisa in 2013 WHEN it's mounts had gone bust and had done close to a 100,000 kms.  Shook so much specially when reversing that after I park the car at the garage and get out i'm still shaking. 

    4. iRage

      iRage

      Well..for starters the 1KR-FE engine base is nearly 11 years old ! The 1KR has been improved but rather modestly. The improvements that count are not seen in the Toyota vehicles but in the Perodua cars (as 1KR-DE2 and 1KR-VE). Those feel a lot more refined.

      Secondly...the Vitz is nearly a decade old now....so compared to most of its competitors the interior design and features look rather dated.

      The Vitz with the 1.3L and 1.5L engines are a whole lot better...in fact it feels like a completely different car.  

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