Jump to content

Davy

Top Contributors
  • Content Count

    3,878
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    244

Davy last won the day on February 2

Davy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,292 Excellent

About Davy

  • Rank
    Pro Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne (current) and Colombo (home)

My Vehicle Details

  • Vehicle Make
    Mitsubishi
  • Vehicle Model
    2011 Lancer RalliArt
  • Engine Type
    2.0L DOHC MIVEC Turbo (4B11T)
  • Mechanical Mods
    BC Racing BR Coilovers
  • Cosmetic Mods
    Evo X BBS wheels
  • Future Plans
    Blow off valve, OEM Projector headlamps

Recent Profile Visitors

28,006 profile views
  1. I like where this is headed! Interesting build after a while. Keep us posted!
  2. The Online Registered Vehicle Information Service offered by RMV lets you pay 150 LKR to obtain full details of a vehicle including current owner's details. However, I don't think this works for vintage numbers like EY series. You might be able to directly contact RMV and ask them if you can get any information on the car? Maybe ask if they have a over-the-counter service where you can pay and obtain information? Good luck!
  3. Congratulations on the purchase. Can relate to all of the symptoms described at various points of my history of car ownership - except maybe the lack of a handbrake lever. Good luck in restoring her to her former glory.
  4. What @speed8 said! You can check if the cooling fan is faulty by switching on the AC. The fan should switch on and off automatically with your AC compressor. If the fan doesn't turn on, it might be a faulty fan, dodgy wiring or a loose connection. As for coolant flowing back to the expansion tank when you lift your foot off the accelerator, it could be that you are using a wrong radiator cap where the cap is below the recommended pressure rating. It could also be because your thermostat valve is removed causing coolant to flow more freely and cause excessive pressure in the top coola
  5. Great pick! Congrats! PS: The slogan on the rear number plate holder though 😁
  6. Try Mazna motors in Aththidiya.
  7. Both fans should operate together. So it could be a faulty fan motor or fan control module. As a first step, observe the behaviour of the fans in the following situation: - Make sure the engine is relatively cool (hasn't reached operating temperature). Start the car (AC off). Keep running for 1 minute. Fans should be off. - Turn on the AC. Both fans should turn on and run at high speed. The fans should also turn on and off with the operation of the AC compressor while the engine hasn't reached operating temperature. - Turn off the AC. Fans should turn off. Keep the car idl
  8. @Rushneli Samanthika, Welcome to the forum. It would be helpful to members if you can add in some detail to about what you are after exactly.
  9. How satisfying to watch an already beautiful icon get a makeover.
  10. Congratulations mate! Never thought I'd say this about a Yaris, but that actually looks amazing! Nice choice of colour too. Wishing you many happy journeys with it!
  11. 200k km is nothing for a petrol engine. Just make sure the mileage is genuine (it it weren't, I doubt it would be listed as 200k km, so it likely is genuine). Check emissions test certificates to be sure. If the car has a verified maintenance history and is in good condition, then there's nothing to worry about. Just do your usual checks before buying. Good luck!
  12. 1. The idle screw on the throttle body is not meant to be adjusted. It's preset to match the engine and ECU combination the throttle body is fitted to. Most local mechanics who want a "quick fix" try to solve issues by messing with the idle screw, but it throws the ECU off completely which is why you are currently experiencing issues. There is usually a mark (like a torque seal mark that comes on nuts and bolts from the factory) on the idle screw to indicate the factory position. But it won't be easy to determine how many turns the screw was moved. So your best bet is to take the car to
  13. Hi @Piranavan Lancer CS1, Welcome to the forum. My first guess is that the reconditioned IAC valve is defective. But before concluding, can you answer the questions below: 1. In point #1 you mentioned that the "engine is set to 1100rpm". Do you mean that the idle RPM is manually set to 1100 using the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body? If this has been done, it needs to be reset to factory position. 2. Before fixing the new IACV, was it cleaned with contact or throttle body cleaner? If yes, how was it cleaned? Was the liquid sprayed directly onto the IACV? 3. When y
  14. It has been a while since I updated this thread, but I didn't have that much to say about the car - until now. COVID surely slowed things down. The car has only been driven around 5000km since the purchase in June 2019, but some noteworthy events prompted me to make this post. About a month ago, a good friend of mine borrowed the car to run some errands. He had just moved to a new home, and wanted to pick up some stuff. Given that the Mazda has good boot space once the seats are folded down, it can comfortably move quite large items - even small furniture. So I lent him the car. He picke
  15. I'm actually not sure. I came across this on Evo IXs, but I guess it would have been offered on other cars as well. Was that a Mitsubishi as well?
×
×
  • Create New...