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iRage last won the day on September 24

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  1. I too have used T**S for shcoks for my Mark X and the Trueno (before the resto). They had the exact part (I expected the trueno one to be of a generic type, which it was, but I was surprised they had anything that was specific for the Mark X, X-chassis vehicles). At times they only do have compatible models out of practicality. For example the pre-facelift and facelift 140 series Axios have slightly different dampers, but they are interchangeable. So T**S only brings one type. Same with cars like the good old Corona/Carina. Having said that, I won't be surprised if every now and then they do make mistakes either because of low/unavailable stock or new staff or even slight oversights. Mistakes happen, what is important is how they take care of you after the mistake has happened and how they proceed to fix the issue.
  2. That is not normal...it is hard to hear the exact type of sound form inside the cabin...that could be somethinglike the air ducts leaking or if it a sireny whistle then there is something wrong on the compressor side of the turbo charger..could be that the bearign has gone and the blades are having too much play and or unbalanced or even a bent blade. You say the car is under warranty....does that mean that you cannot have anyone else worked on it (without voiding the warranty) ? There are 4x4 and Turbo specialists lke BN who could tell you exactly what is wrong with it...
  3. No...You will need to find a whole lot of parts and engineer it to fit the Civic structure OR..engineer the Civic body panels to be mountd on a RWD platform. Either way it requires a whole lot of fabrication (which I am certain 99.9% of garages will not do properly in SL). This will cost quite a lot. Sky's the limit...just a rough estimate for parts would be something between 600K- 1mil for suspension, brakes, exhaust, intake and cooling at the very least with a mix of used and new parts. Painting and tinkering all depends on what the condition of the car is
  4. Nice ! Old steering wheels have plenty of character to the way it looks and feels. Newer sterring wheels with all the modern material does feel nice to the hand (good ones) but looks like a computer game controller 😕
  5. 1. ROLL CAGE ! The panels can be beaten out metal sheets for all it matters. He would need a roll cage...something to absorb the impact. 2. ROLL CAGE ..well atleast some kind of strucural support to absorb impacts...
  6. Well...what we have in SL are vans...and even if a wagon from the 70s and 80s are to be found they still would prettymuch have the suspension of a van. The issue with vans is the rear suspension and rear weight...the weight can be sorted out easily with some sand bags (would need with a light sedan too)...but the leaf springs are going to need to sorting out to make it not as air bound that easily.
  7. Since both rear sides are connected...any action on one side affects the other side (i.e. not independant). So if one side has a bump pushing-up the "wheel" the otherside will have an an opposite reaction where the "wheel" wants to "drop down". Now mind you this is just a rudimentary and crude example (over simplified too...depending on the scenario this can either help you maintain traction or it can cause you to lose it all together). This is niether an end of the world setup nor is IRS (Ind. Rear. Sus) the next best thing to sliced bread. For front weight biased cars the solid axle can actually help balance out the car. Your suspension (depending on how well its setup) will help mitigate this, thus...how bad or good either suspension system works will depend on what you do with the suspension (for your traction scenario.. If you are looking to build a drift car for practice...this really does not matter as long as themechanicals are sound and the major body parts are there. Just rip off the plastic buckets and neon lights and hammer out the dents and stuff (why bother fixing it when you are going ot be hitting guard rails and such ? besides..almost all battle hard drifters look like crap)
  8. Forget about Mark 2s....they are out of your budget..unless you can find a beater from the 80s...the Mark 2 platform acually will be alot easier (thus makes it chaeper) for you to get drift ready than something like a KE72 (also, a KE72 will slip he back out but that engine simply has no power to hold a slide...if you go for a KE72 you will have to upgrade the engine or at the very least go for a KE74. Box Lancers and the model before that or even old Galants B211, B310s are an option. Now...what exactly do you want to do with the car ? Just drift ? You won't be using it as a daily ? ALl of these cars if you spend enough money on it it can be made it to a fairly decent daily. If it is just a matter of earningto drift...jut get some beater...who cares...even something like a KE30/KE50 would work...weld the diffs if you have to (granted the diff will not last that long if you drive around on daily basis). Do not worry about the solid rear axle...even old AE86s, Crowns, MarkII/Chaser/etc...have solid axles and people drift with them. It is just another skill you learn to negotiate.
  9. You can use masking tape....or apply the center areas and the edge areas seperately.... This is why you need a good trim cleaner as well...you can wax as normal but being careful around the edges and thenuse the trim cleaner to clean up the wax residue.
  10. No they are not ! I just found the part in the parts catalog. The front one is just a badge (the badge when new apparently cost like 3500yen). The rear one goes as a door lock assembly (this on the other hand when new costs like 12,000yen).
  11. Okay...will keep an eye out for one...funnily I cannot find the part number for the rear triangular badge. The front one is there (but it just says Nissan) in the parts catalog but the rear triangular one is not 😕- are both the same ? and what is meant by bluebirdish ?
  12. Yes..but no...depends on the wax.... First of all..decide on the type of wax...paste or spray. So far the most durable and long lasting are paste waxes. The spray wax is good for quick touch ups and refreshing inbetween your paste wax cycles. Ideally you would not want to put (most) the wax on the windscreen and glasses. The residue it leaves will make the glass difficult to deal with during rain and such. Use a wax/polish/cleaner made for glass. As for plastic, rubber beadings, etc...if you get wax on them 99% of the waxes out there will leave whitish residue which will be a pain to get rid of and quite unsightly. Therefore, avoid getting your waxes on them. If you want to add protection to your beadings and plastic/rubber trim,which you should, you get proper cleaners/polishes for it. They also help remove any wax residue you get on them.
  13. well yeah..not the odometer but the meter cluster....if you are referring to the lever position lights on the meter cluster. Could be the bulbs or could be the wiring from the lever itself (can get worn out over time). Worst case scenario is that the cluster circuitry is damaged at which point you either just need to live with it or try to get it fixed or replaced.
  14. Congrats...soyour frameless door fetish continues she looks nice...give it a good clean and post up some pics also..yes...please do paint it gun metallic
  15. Yeah...Lexus announced the pull out late last year (I thin the IS and RC), but then I doubt Lexus will feel the difference because they haven't been that successful with the models down-under. At the time the thought was that they pulled out the models until the next gen variants which will meet these compliancy requirements. As for Indian and Chinese vehicles..no idea. Don't know how it works in Australia, but in Japan and some other countries there are stupid loopholes. For example, a kei car has less requirements than that of a standard car or a high-performance car, so if one manages to classify ones model as something that is not through some non-sensicle measurement, then it might pass safety standards whilst its competitor does not.
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