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Everything posted by iRage

  1. I too have used T**S for shcoks for my Mark X and the Trueno (before the resto). They had the exact part (I expected the trueno one to be of a generic type, which it was, but I was surprised they had anything that was specific for the Mark X, X-chassis vehicles). At times they only do have compatible models out of practicality. For example the pre-facelift and facelift 140 series Axios have slightly different dampers, but they are interchangeable. So T**S only brings one type. Same with cars like the good old Corona/Carina. Having said that, I won't be surprised if every now and then they do make mistakes either because of low/unavailable stock or new staff or even slight oversights. Mistakes happen, what is important is how they take care of you after the mistake has happened and how they proceed to fix the issue.
  2. That is not normal...it is hard to hear the exact type of sound form inside the cabin...that could be somethinglike the air ducts leaking or if it a sireny whistle then there is something wrong on the compressor side of the turbo charger..could be that the bearign has gone and the blades are having too much play and or unbalanced or even a bent blade. You say the car is under warranty....does that mean that you cannot have anyone else worked on it (without voiding the warranty) ? There are 4x4 and Turbo specialists lke BN who could tell you exactly what is wrong with it...
  3. No...You will need to find a whole lot of parts and engineer it to fit the Civic structure OR..engineer the Civic body panels to be mountd on a RWD platform. Either way it requires a whole lot of fabrication (which I am certain 99.9% of garages will not do properly in SL). This will cost quite a lot. Sky's the limit...just a rough estimate for parts would be something between 600K- 1mil for suspension, brakes, exhaust, intake and cooling at the very least with a mix of used and new parts. Painting and tinkering all depends on what the condition of the car is
  4. Nice ! Old steering wheels have plenty of character to the way it looks and feels. Newer sterring wheels with all the modern material does feel nice to the hand (good ones) but looks like a computer game controller 😕
  5. 1. ROLL CAGE ! The panels can be beaten out metal sheets for all it matters. He would need a roll cage...something to absorb the impact. 2. ROLL CAGE ..well atleast some kind of strucural support to absorb impacts...
  6. Well...what we have in SL are vans...and even if a wagon from the 70s and 80s are to be found they still would prettymuch have the suspension of a van. The issue with vans is the rear suspension and rear weight...the weight can be sorted out easily with some sand bags (would need with a light sedan too)...but the leaf springs are going to need to sorting out to make it not as air bound that easily.
  7. Since both rear sides are connected...any action on one side affects the other side (i.e. not independant). So if one side has a bump pushing-up the "wheel" the otherside will have an an opposite reaction where the "wheel" wants to "drop down". Now mind you this is just a rudimentary and crude example (over simplified too...depending on the scenario this can either help you maintain traction or it can cause you to lose it all together). This is niether an end of the world setup nor is IRS (Ind. Rear. Sus) the next best thing to sliced bread. For front weight biased cars the solid axle can actually help balance out the car. Your suspension (depending on how well its setup) will help mitigate this, thus...how bad or good either suspension system works will depend on what you do with the suspension (for your traction scenario.. If you are looking to build a drift car for practice...this really does not matter as long as themechanicals are sound and the major body parts are there. Just rip off the plastic buckets and neon lights and hammer out the dents and stuff (why bother fixing it when you are going ot be hitting guard rails and such ? besides..almost all battle hard drifters look like crap)
  8. Forget about Mark 2s....they are out of your budget..unless you can find a beater from the 80s...the Mark 2 platform acually will be alot easier (thus makes it chaeper) for you to get drift ready than something like a KE72 (also, a KE72 will slip he back out but that engine simply has no power to hold a slide...if you go for a KE72 you will have to upgrade the engine or at the very least go for a KE74. Box Lancers and the model before that or even old Galants B211, B310s are an option. Now...what exactly do you want to do with the car ? Just drift ? You won't be using it as a daily ? ALl of these cars if you spend enough money on it it can be made it to a fairly decent daily. If it is just a matter of earningto drift...jut get some beater...who cares...even something like a KE30/KE50 would work...weld the diffs if you have to (granted the diff will not last that long if you drive around on daily basis). Do not worry about the solid rear axle...even old AE86s, Crowns, MarkII/Chaser/etc...have solid axles and people drift with them. It is just another skill you learn to negotiate.
  9. You can use masking tape....or apply the center areas and the edge areas seperately.... This is why you need a good trim cleaner as well...you can wax as normal but being careful around the edges and thenuse the trim cleaner to clean up the wax residue.
  10. No they are not ! I just found the part in the parts catalog. The front one is just a badge (the badge when new apparently cost like 3500yen). The rear one goes as a door lock assembly (this on the other hand when new costs like 12,000yen).
  11. Okay...will keep an eye out for one...funnily I cannot find the part number for the rear triangular badge. The front one is there (but it just says Nissan) in the parts catalog but the rear triangular one is not 😕- are both the same ? and what is meant by bluebirdish ?
  12. Yes..but no...depends on the wax.... First of all..decide on the type of wax...paste or spray. So far the most durable and long lasting are paste waxes. The spray wax is good for quick touch ups and refreshing inbetween your paste wax cycles. Ideally you would not want to put (most) the wax on the windscreen and glasses. The residue it leaves will make the glass difficult to deal with during rain and such. Use a wax/polish/cleaner made for glass. As for plastic, rubber beadings, etc...if you get wax on them 99% of the waxes out there will leave whitish residue which will be a pain to get rid of and quite unsightly. Therefore, avoid getting your waxes on them. If you want to add protection to your beadings and plastic/rubber trim,which you should, you get proper cleaners/polishes for it. They also help remove any wax residue you get on them.
  13. well yeah..not the odometer but the meter cluster....if you are referring to the lever position lights on the meter cluster. Could be the bulbs or could be the wiring from the lever itself (can get worn out over time). Worst case scenario is that the cluster circuitry is damaged at which point you either just need to live with it or try to get it fixed or replaced.
  14. Congrats...soyour frameless door fetish continues she looks nice...give it a good clean and post up some pics also..yes...please do paint it gun metallic
  15. Yeah...Lexus announced the pull out late last year (I thin the IS and RC), but then I doubt Lexus will feel the difference because they haven't been that successful with the models down-under. At the time the thought was that they pulled out the models until the next gen variants which will meet these compliancy requirements. As for Indian and Chinese vehicles..no idea. Don't know how it works in Australia, but in Japan and some other countries there are stupid loopholes. For example, a kei car has less requirements than that of a standard car or a high-performance car, so if one manages to classify ones model as something that is not through some non-sensicle measurement, then it might pass safety standards whilst its competitor does not.
  16. Uhh...not really what they said....they showed an image that showed the ethos of the GT-R. The variants that refer to the GT of the GT-R, being a grand touring. Then track spec variants which are NISMO variants...and then those right in the middle which are Grond Tourers with the a Racing feel to it. This is what has been the ideology of the GT-R since the beginning (which was also an issue they pointed out with people taking the GT variants of R34s, R33s etc and converting it in to GT-R look a likes but now they cannot do so). What was announced and new was just the T-Spec variant which will be available for the GT flavored premium grade GT-Rs and the Racing spirit GT-Rs. The standard models of the Grand Tourer variants and Race spirit variants and NISMO variants remain as it is (although the order books might be closed due to production capacity).
  17. and also on Japanese automotive news for the day....Toyota launched the JDM Corolla Cross...it..uhh...has a different nose and fancier lights than the global market model. uhh....oh..I beleive its a Thai import to Japan.... Uhh...yeah.... really is a boring time in Japan...
  18. Yeah....bit of a bore again...a bit tired of getting hopes up with Nissan... 100 units sold by lottery.nLottery applications run from 15th to the 29th and luckier prospective buyers will be notified within the the first few weeks of October... T-Spec (TMSpec, i.e. Trend/Traction master) makes some optional and NISMO parts and spec standard and revives the Millenium Jade and Midnight Purple colours (I don't think the colors look good onthe R35 as it did on the R34 and the R33). Oh...and a special gold coloured paint for the T-Spec intake paint tidbits... The best thing about the reveal was listening to stories of designing and building the R33 and R34.Apparently the midnight purples of the R34 were limited because of supply limitations of the paint. The colors are difficult to apply on the current car because the micron levels need ot be adjusted depending on the panel and with standard run of the mill new-eco freindly painting methods that becomes very costly. Only Nissan can hash out the heart strings like this...17 years gives one good practice
  19. Supposed to be an update to the R35 as a final farewell to the R35....at least that is what the speculators say....what Nissan will do..no one knows...but more than likely the speculators are right. How drastic the updates will be is yet to be seen...everything from a boost in power with the exising engine to mating a Hybrid system seems to be hovering around
  20. I believe the most likely scenario was that the brakes went out. The brake lights are on but the truck simply is not slowing down. There seems to have been a sand/cement pit in the center so that might have slowed the truck down had he driven in to it but who knows...that might have not done anything but just hit more cars. Not sure if it was intensional or not but kudos to the driver for ditching the truck in to the drain and sacrificing themselves. Things could have been a lot worst...thankfully there was no one sitting in the back of the car and the truck did not drag the car over the bridge with it.
  21. 1. The usual life span of a tire is about 5 years. It is highly recommended not to use tires for so long 2. Changes a lot actually. On one hand the warranty period depends on the manufacturer, since the manufacturers direct presence is not there in Sri Lanka what we would get in the local market is what the manufacturer's authorized distributor for SL decides is viable for the country. In addition to that a reseller may extend that warranty either for product replacement or in most cases for service. Some tires come with thread wear guarantees....but it is nearly impossible to get them replaced under warranty and is totally dependant on how much your tire servie guy loves you (even then the most you would get is a discount on a new set as they will say it is because you drove hard or some excuse about SL roads being bad). The warranty mostly covers manufacturing defects, which to be honest if you buy a legit brand you won't have much of (uness you buy a really old set that has been sitting on/in a shelf/warehouse for ages. But you shouldn't have bought these in the first place. Always check YoM when buying a tire) 3. Have never used the other brand but I had NANKANG (in Sri Lanka) and HANKOOK (n Tanzania but bought in Japan) on my RAV4s. I liked the Hankooks more than the Nankangs. They both were hard rubber tires...but Nankang had slightly more road noise than the Hankook on highways. Nankang's dry grip was okay..wet surface was decent...but anything with a sheet of water...it wasn't very good..same with on gravel. I always felt that the numb Toyota stering feel was made even more numb by the feel of the tires which was very numb. Difficult to compare as the two vehicles were in two different countries, but I recall feeling more confident with the Hankooks (where I did a lot of sand and muddy track driving). If you are looking for a decent tire to drive around in the city day to day and not doing much high speed driving or in heavy rains (when you should be driving at a safe speed belowthe speed limit)..then the Nankang would be okay I suppose.
  22. They have changed things so many times we all get confussed...including the cops !
  23. The all new Subaru WRX ! ...and they bought most of the VIZIV concept to life ❤️ Last night the world finally got to see the new WRX (WRX S4 in Japan with a STI to follow later on). With a F24A, the turbo charged engine pushes 271hp (which is lesser than the outgoing model ?); but it seems like Subaru has plans for high output variants. The S4 is available with a 6MT with a center diff and viscous LSD; or a CVT (Subaru Sports transmission) with a variable torque distribution system. The S4 is supposed to be released in Japan in October and is expected to be priced around 4mil yen. As always it carries the design elements of the Levorg in sedan form (well the Levorg carries the design of the Impreza in Wagon form). It looks pretty nice…although I am not a fan of the rear (nor the offroady plastic wheel arch cladding)
  24. Didn't you get this in reverse ? If the vehicle is Sri or before the front nuber plate can be black with yellow background. a white on black when the dash came all vehicles moved to a black lettering on yellow back setup. For a brief period the front also became the same and then went back to the white letters on black setup. Then when the letters came the rear kept the black on yellow scheme and the front went to a black on white scheme. I beleive the only exception were the pre-Sri cars. As for your fine back in the day..it could have been the yellow being on the front and the black in the back....like i said..there was a time when the - was introduced the RMV made a mess out of the front plate (both being black on yellow) and then reverting back to white on black which messed up a lot of people. As for the OP's question....sadly it is highly unlikely that you will be allowed to have the number plate sideways (SLP's logic being that the nuber plae should be clearly visible from front). Know people who got pulled over for having their number painted on to the bonnet of the car (charge being that the number is not clearly visible as it is facing upwards)
  25. I am guessing you are looking at a 1.5L variant with a HR15DE. I don't think many of the 1.8L variants would have made it to SL. Fuel economy will depend on the condition of the car. Condition of engine, transmission, etc has a huge effect on fuel efficiency. When new its JC08 rating was about 17kmpl so it is safe to assume that it would have about 9-11 in the City and around 13-14 on the highway. However depending on the condition of the car definitely would have dropped by now. The engine is pretty trouble free but prepared to attend to things like hoses, oil seals, etc...these cars are 15 years or so old now...i.e. be prepared to do age related repairs. You would have to do with any old car you buy. How many issues there would be and how soon it would come up will dpeend on how the car was ainained in the past (eg. a Chinese oil seal for 500LKR would last a shorter time than the actual Nissan part that costs 2000LKR). This applies for things like suspension, brakes, etc... The point of concern is the transmission. The car came with either a 4 speed standard Automatic Transmission or an X-tronic CVT. Nissan transmissions from the period have a bad reputation for not being durable, especially the CVT (wierd plastic components being used, etc...). So try to get an AT.
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