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iRage

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Posts posted by iRage

  1. When you say it gos to a lower level...are you saying it goes down to the low mark on your dip stick ? How much is low ?

    It will help to know how much it lowers by...so fill up to the fill mark...then use it for 1000km (? 5000?)...then top up the oil (do not change.TOP UP (i.e. put additional oil to what is already in the engine after 5000km), and see how much you had to put in for the engine oil to be at the fill level on the dip stick.

    It is normal for the engine to reduce oil. Whether it is the normal reduction or not depends on how much oil is actually getting lost.

     

  2. Toyota USA : GR Corolla second teaser !

    Some points to note:
    1. The front grill does not seem to have the squarish, bulging shape of the GR Yaris. It could be that the camo hides it quite well or not there because its still a development model.

    2. The container says NA G16 GR Four...does that mean there is a NA G16 as opposed to, or in addition to, the Turbo charged G16 ?

    Pics courtesy of ToyotaUSA and Creative311 for the blow-ups

    No photo description available.May be an image of car, outdoors and textNo photo description available.
  3. 4 hours ago, flashmark said:

    Yes. It is blinking in the meter cluster. 

    Okay...so the car is literally not detecting the key fob.

    Have you tried the spare key ? If yoour car detects the spare key and not your daily key..then it could be that the transceiver on your key has gone bad (again, assuming that the batteries are in good health and are equal). hus, you will need to get a new key programmed.

    If the blinking of the meter cluster light happens with both the daily and spare keys, then potentially the transceiver in the car has gone bad and needs replacing.

    Now...have you fitted anything new in the car ? Something that could potentially intefer with the radio signals within the car....or a case where someone messed up the wiring when they installed something else.

    Also, this happens EVERYWHERE right ? Not when you are parked at home or office or someplace... If this happens only/msostly at a single (or two) locations, it could be that there is something that is interfering with the signal. In which case the blinking should stop and the key shold start working once you drive a way from that location.

  4. 5 hours ago, carlover_07 said:

    Ford Laser 2001

    If you know the car and its history....then there really is no need to look any further is there ? Especially considering all the junk you see that are for sale and are highly questionable... ?

    Get a good understanding of what needs to be done, get a car checks report and then move forward. The Laser is a nice car. Mechanically, they are mostly the same as the Familiar/323 so when it comes to consumbales you will be okay. as for body parts, it is not going ot be common as Japanese body parts where you can just go to any shop in Delkanda and find any part. But then again, you won't be completely stranded either. there are several Ford parts dealers who i am sure will be able to help you out, failing which, you can always get it shipped from abroad. Body parts and such are not things that you will need on a regular basis so the limited supply of body parts should not be something that keeps you away from a potentially safe buy.

  5. 7 hours ago, PreseaLover said:

    I see.. thanks irage. Hope to at least run this for 2 years (20k km's) before I could save some money for the conversion project. 

    Don't make any solid decisions just yet....do some costings and see whether it makes sense to fix the current engine....

    • Like 1
  6. 1. Whether you retain the sensors and other electronics depends on what you buy. Some engines pretty much come with all electronics in tact whilst some don't. In some cases, like with the 4A_GE, even if the engine came with all the electronics the engine sellers strip them off and sell them seperately (due rarity hich has pushed their prices up). So you should try to buy one with everything already in place.

    2.Hmmm.... It does seem like your engine will need some significant work done soon. 

    • Like 1
  7. What kind of a car and key is it ? Assuming it is something with a smart-key. I suppose you are because I can't see why you can't open the door if it was a normal key. Are you saying that the car's battery is dead or that the key fob's battery is dead ?

    Eitherway, if you are using a smart-key, it should have a little metal key embedded in it somewhere. In Toyota smark-keys the metal key can be popped out by pressing a little button on the side (the key will slideout from the side of the button which you need to pull out). If it a fancy Toyota key fob or something like nissan or Mazda, the metal key is fitted so that it can be pulled out from the side like a swiss army knife blade and then it looks like a normal key... There is a normal key hole for locking and unlocking the door, typically only on the driver's side.

    If the battery of the key fob is dead then you won't be able to start it as well. In most cars you just hold the key fob close to the Start/Stop button and then the car will start beeping after a few seconds; at which point you can press the start button. In some cars there is a little key hole you can put the metal key in to and then the start/stop button starts working... 

  8. 11 hours ago, Linesh Anandkumar said:

    Nice, will do. Not sure if i should open another thread but i'm video/photo documenting the whole process and ill start posting regularly

    On an unrelated note, i just found out after doing some quick math, that the car is doing very close to 15km/l of DIESEL in this dilapidated state, which makes my 3rd gen prius seem redundant. 😃

     

    Up to you...you can start a new thread under the correct topic/category and simply have this moved there as well for consistency...The other option is you can start a blog.

    Depending on what you use the Hybrid for, it can actually do worst on fuel than a ICE car. A hybrid will do better if you are literally sitting in one place for a hour or so though :) But then in our climate the engine kicks in to keep the air conditioning on....

  9. 1. Main difference between the SR20 and SR18 block is the bore size. The body, thus the mounting ancilliaries for both, should and are the same. Only thing I would look out for is to make sure both engines are of the same generation of the SR. (Parts catalog confirms this as it has the same part numbers for both)

    2. Doesn't the SR18 and SR20 Bluebird come with the same FL4F03A gearbox ? I am pretty sure even things like the alternator and compressors are also the same. Again, just make sure if is of the same SR generation. I would also look in to upgrading the cooling system. Also, some variants of the SR20 comes with a larger brake booster and master pump. This is more specific for the grade levels than the engine so it is up to you to go through with it or not (same with the suspension).

    3. Suspension for the SR18 and SR20 are also the same (parts catalog confirms it). Only time it changed seem to have been with different grades (sportier trim lelvel having slightly harder springs) and when there was a facelift (the part nubmers have changed but I can't see what has actually changed).

    4. Cons : If done by a maka baas you will have a pile of very expensive metal junk on your hands. Then you ahve to go through the hassle of dealing with the RMV. Fuel consumption might be a bit on the lower side but I am sure it won't be by that much once you get used to driving it and not be heavy footed.

     

    • Thanks 1
  10. On 11/24/2021 at 1:31 AM, Linesh Anandkumar said:

    you were right about the 20T. Basically all parts from a serena fits my vehicle,

    so the current plan is to find a turbo pump, turbo and exhaust manifold off of a serena and add on a custom intercooler.

    according to bruce  motorsports this setup would double up my current HP, so that is more than what i was expecting anyway. 

    EXCELLENT ! Please do keep us updated (regularly) on the build ! 

    I am guessing he is going to increase the boost and then add the intercooler to help it to get that sort of power boost. THe 20T in stock form only got like 100hp over the 80ish(?) hp of the standard 20.

  11. 10 hours ago, Linesh Anandkumar said:

    Thanks for your reply. i contacted WEP and they seemed a bit clueless and downright rejected a turbo kit since they don't do turbos for non turbo vehicles.

    The reasons i'm putting a turbo is

    1. vehicle is 23 years old, and something this ancient could use a bit of help. im thinking another 30hp boost would do

    2. childhood dream is to own a car that goes "pssh psssh" when i let off the throttle (no i will not install those electronic wastegate sirens)

    3. i intend to put 16 or 17inch wheels with 215 width, so engine DEFINETELY needs more power.

     

    so taking all this into consideration i think ill hunt a bit for the CD20T turbo unit...

     

     

    Hmm...could be that it is a diesel and a Nissan one at that that makes them a bit clueless. 
    As Supra_Natural mentioned Platinum is an option, but depending on the workload they have and the weather outside the level of service you might get can vary.

    I think you are going to have an issue with the whole turbo charging a diesel option....sadly there aren't many high power diesel options even with a turbo but they are pretty torquey...so you still can have that tire shredding launches. SO I suppose now you are thinking of getting a 20T and maybe putting on a larger turbo ?

  12. 3 hours ago, Linesh Anandkumar said:

    Hi All,

    I've recently purchased a 1998 Nissan Bluebird SU14 with a 2.0L Diesel Engine (CD20) 

    I am currently in the process of overhauling the whole vehicle.

    Need to know where i can overhaul the whole engine and add in upgrades (pistons etc), custom turbo & exhaust, and a performance clutch kit?

    If there is a one stop shop for all ,that would be great.

    Cost is of no issue. 

    P.s - this is a 3rd vehicle and a project car. Before anyone says turbos are bad for a non turbo vehicle, i don't care if the engine cracks open in half, ill just put in another one, as i got the car rusting off a yard for dirt cheap. 

    Thanks in advance!

     

    Uhh...isn't the CD20T, which came in the Avenir, Serena and Primera (in some markets), pretty much a CD20 with a turbo bolted on it ? So theoretically the CD20 was an engine that came with a turbo, its just that the bluebird got it with the turbo stripped off :)  You technically should be able to find used units from one of those cars and do the upgrade. However, I don't think the turbo charger added that much power...it would have been about 100hp compared to the 70-80 hp of a standard CD20...and I do not think you would actually need performance clutches or forged rods and stuff for it (don't forget the internals of a diesel engine are a bit more stronger than that of a petrol engine). 

    But if you are going with the custom turbo option, go to WickedEP for the turbo and exhaust systemand see how much more you can get out of it..no idea by how much though (or if you find the turbo off of a CD20T you can still go to them to do aproper setup). Sadly, I don't think they other things you are looking for (clutches, engine overhauls, etc..) but they might have some recommendations or partner garages they work with.

    • Like 1
  13. On 11/20/2021 at 10:53 AM, Tharindu Rukshan said:

    Hi dear , my vehicle jerk 3rd and 4th gear while moving in slow speed . We change clutch plate. Cluth plate torsion spring getting loose . Pressure plate looks good . Its happen only slow speed looks like clutch not enough to move . Please help

    Hi ! So I am going to reply to your message here as I beleive others might be able to provie you with more info than me as there are many other members who are 1000c times more technical than I am :)

    1. What is the clutch you are using ? Is it a genuine part or a replacement part from a reputed manufacturer ?

    2. Torsion spring getting loose....are you dumping the clutch (or driving the car in a very harsh manner all the time ? High revs...then short shifting...etc...

    3. What is your definition of slow speed ? Because when you are talking about 3rd and 4th gear and slow speed I amnot sure exactly slow speed could be

  14. Its really hard to specifically say what rattling noises could be without actually listening to it and even tracing it to a particular area.

    The rattling noise could very well be becuase of the beadings and rubber grommets wearing out, door pin getting worn out, door hinges and locking hinge loosening, power window actuator or even window rails loosening (from its mounts), the upholstery bits looseningup because clips, etc have worn out or disformed due to heat...and here i the kicker....it could be some vibration occuring somewhere else and it just so happens to sound like it is coming out of the door (or the vibration somewhere else is actually making something inthe door rattle). 

    Check for any play in the door, tap on the upholstery panels and the door itself to see if you can recreate the sound. Then trace it to a source. If you can't, get someone to drive the car around whilst you try to identify the source area. Try lubricating the hinges, etc...and then if any parts need to be replaced, do so.

  15. Mazda USA unveiled the new CX-50 which was talked alot about and much anticipated for over the last few months. The launch vehicle does have a very rough and touch presence compared to the gentle and sleek shapes of Mazda crossovers we have become used to. AWD comes as standard in all models and the engine options are either a NA 2.5 or Turbo 2.5 SkyActiv engine. So they are engines we are somewhat familiar with on other previous Mazda models.

    What is interesting is...this is the first Mazda vehicle produced at the new Toyota-Mazda joint production plant "Mazda Toyota Manufacturing, USA, Inc." which is also where the Corolla Cross for the North and South American continental markets are made. By the time the launch event was finished people were already drawing similarities with the Corolla Cross design and was making claims of the two cars sharing components. Mazda was quick to deny this and insists that the CX-50 is its own car and has its own parts. It is unlikely that the two cars actually share platforms or components considering the differences in the mechanicals and things like lights..but you cannot deny the fact that the buldging fenders and the body lines leading to and off of them are quite reminiscent of the Corolla Cross...

    Either way it is a pretty car. Mazda Japan today claimed that th CX-50 is not planned for sale in Japan; as it is for the US and strategic export markets. However, since the CX-3 became the CX-30...it would be no surprise of this CX-50 or some of its design components makes it way over to the next generation CX-5 (which logically should be called CX-50 ?)

    MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50MAZDA CX-50

    and now look at the lines and buldges of the Corolla Cross..you really can't blame those who picked up and went on a trip with th similarties...

    Toyota Corolla Cross 2021

  16. On 11/12/2021 at 11:14 PM, lahiru egodawatta said:

    Btw, what about volvos? S40 and s60 haven't really changed in pricing, are they an electrical nightmare?

    I would say stay away from Euros ingeneral. Like @john cooper mentioned, it is not that the brands are bad (for mainstream Euros like Mercs and BMWs and Audis at least); it is just poor maintenance by the previous owners (most of whom bought in to the brand for show but was too cheap to maintain it). Also, when it comes to older Euros, they require a lot more diligence and discipline when it comes to maintenance than a Japanese car of the same era (among many reasons, a huge reason is the fact that the Euros were far more sophisticated than the Japanese at that time).

  17. Sadly, the prices these days are crazy....and I have a feeling it will only get crazier. Yes, most of those older cars are not in the best of shapes (as they were bought because they were cheap and someone wanted a low cost vehicle..thus low investment in fixing it up and maintaning it). Keep looking...there are diamonds in the rough out there. You are not going to find a prestine car that is 30+ years old. Those are going to cost you an arm and a leg because they have been restored and whoever has them do not want to get rid of them nless the price is right.

    Go for the car that has a lot of potential. Mechanically best and physically the most sound.

    • Like 1
  18. technically any modification on yor car requires RMV approval and that includes additional lights. There is a circular that indicates what the specifications for the lights should be and that indicates the size, allowed position (there was something about the level, above/below bumper, how much it can stick over above the bonnet and outside of the bonnet, not blocking headlights and turn signals, etc..) , color (basically white for drive and spot lights or yellow for fog lights...you can fix other colors, except emergency vehicle color lights but they along with spot lights cannot be turned on when travelling on public roads).

    Basically, the regulations are not enforced nor are they checked. They get checked only when the police constables need to meet up their monthly quotas. For the most part, if you fit fog lights that are of similar spec to what the manufacturer would have fitted AND in locations the manufacturer would have fitted them on for road going versions of their cars...you will be safe.

  19. Yes...your vehicle height will slightly reduce. Most of the time for most people this goes unnoticed as they move on to larger sized rims along with their low profile tires. 

    Along with the width, your speedometer will alos be slightly off. Your tire essentially has to rotate a little bit more to achive X distance so as a result you technically shoulod lose a bit of fuel efficiency. To be honest the last tow changes are probably going ot be negligible since it is a very small change.  The lower profile means your turning will feel more crisper (as there is lesser squigy side roll from the tore's body) but you also will feel tht the ride is a bit harsher than before (less of a buffer area on the tire).

    • Like 1
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