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General Comments

  1. Iā€™m trying to bring down Honda Civic 2018 any comments about the vehicle any failures faced in Sri Lanka ???
  2. Guys, finally I bought 'FD 1', I was seeking a well maintained FD1 or FD 4 for months but was not lucky enough. After many cheatings and hassles, I accidentally found this red beauty. And also after dozens of negotiations, I settled with her. This FD1 is a brand new import under the permit scheme and registered in 31st of December 2007. previous owner is a doctor & he was the first owner and had maintained her with Sfat#d Mot#rs and had all service records from the beginning to up to date. Two Autolankans were helping me with this. Hyaenidae, [email protected] and also I thank full to who wrote threads about FD's. I read each & every thread about FD. Thank you all guys. Here are some photos of her.
  3. Honda Civic FD1 - R18A Throttle Body cleaning after ~ 50,000Km. Symptoms: Vibration when the A/C is cycling ON What happened: There was a very little amount of carbon build up on the throttle body and the RPM was dropped by ~200 due to the reduced gap between the throttle body and the plate. It was enough to make the vibration when the A/C compressor is adding some load to the engine. It got recovered within a second; however I felt that so badly LOL * Need to remove the air box completely ** Don't force open the throttle plate (It will damage the throttle body, strip gears and mess your idling) *** To open the throttle plate for cleaning, turn the ignition ON and ask some one to press the accelerator or use a weight. **** Use throttle body cleaner, contact cleaner or carb cleaner. ***** Don't forget to hook the MAF sensor before turn on the ignition otherwise it will log 2 errors (you can clear them if you have a scanner). ****** This method is without disconnecting the battery. No need to re learn the idle after cleaning. Before: After: Cleaned everything and also cleaned the engine + transmission because it's hard to reach this area after assembling the air box Vibration during A/C cycling ON has disappeared and the RPM is stable at ~800 P, N + A/C ON D, R + A/C ON
  4. I own a Honda Fit Hybrid car with year of manufacture as 2012(GP1). It's odometer reads 71000 km to the date. Speaking about the vehicle's history, it hasn't given me any issue till after the completion of 65000 km reading. As usual we all know that at around 40000km we need to replace the drive train oil or otherwise it gives the indication of HMMF(Honda Multi Matic Fluid) replacement. I performed the procedure when the vehicle was at 38000km mark and scanned and reset the vehicle's ECU. Since then the only replacement I have done for the vehicle was its 12V battery. Please note that almost all Honda Hybrid vehicle's doesn't have an alternator to charge the 12V battery, it is always charged from the High Voltage battery when the vehicle is started. So that if you encounter any problem with the high voltage battery, it stops charging the primary battery where the end result would be vehicle's total system failure. If you see the red battery light on in your display while you're driving it means your primary battery isn't charging form the secondary battery. First you check the fuse box for blown fuse and in most of the cases that would be the issue. Still after replacing the fuse you have to scan the ECU and reset the fault codes. If you ignore the CHECK BATTERY indication it will lead to IMA indication. There after the vehicle's ECU disconnects the High Voltage battery form the drive train for safety purposes. That is one of the ways you get the IMA indication on your vehicle. At around 60000km mark I encountered a new issue. The engine started to give a knock and the CHECK ENGINE light came on. Since it is not an issue for me to resolve I went to a professional for help. He scanned the vehicle for fault codes and informed me that there are some blockages in the fuel injectors and the engine is running lean. (Engine running lean means that the fuel injected to the chamber is ignited with excessive amount of air.) It could be either a problem with the fuel injectors or a problem with air intake. The professional informed me to go for an injector cleaning. The issue was no more after the injector cleaning process. Then came the high voltage battery overheating problem. The system scan showed that the HV battery cooling fan malfunction. We removed the battery and checked the fan separately and it worked fine. After consulting an Engineer at Honda we understood that the battery cooling fan works in 3 stages in Honda, depending on the heat produced by the battery. Due to some electronic failure in the fan driver it didn't change speeds. Therefore i had to replace the fan which cost me around 40000/= . Since then the car became even smoother to drive. The efficiency popped up to 20-22km/l and the high voltage battery bank was at 75% of its initial capacity even after 6 years from manufacture. If you have any information about the problems like this and their fixes I am keen to learn.
  5. When I start the Fd1 in the morning and put R or D, the gear engages suddenly like car is jumping. And when driving gear shifting is not smooth. But when I stop the car and start again for the second time, everything is fine and works perfectly. I changed the transmission oil and cleaned the solonoids also. Still the same issue. Need expert advice please.
  6. Hi Guys, Does anyone here knows whether we can change the language of Audio Setup in honda fit gp1. It's Gathers VXM 128VS. I'm curious has anyone done it before or if it's possible. I my self tried this using the Manual and couldn't succeed. There were couple of YouTube videos as well which we can use google translator to find out correct language settings that didn't work as well. If you guys have any experience or knows a place a do so I would be really great full.
  7. Hi friends, Would you please suggest a good place to repair CRZ door lock. Thank you,
  8. Please give comments on the usage of new Civic 1.0L turbo hatch in Sri Lanka.
  9. Hi friends, I am planning on buying my first car. This has become a huge challenge to me , my budget is around 4.0 Mn to 4.5 Mn, I was searching in lot of places, seems all car's prices have gone sky high. I have been planning on this since quite a time. BTW i was looking for a Toyota, Honda or Mazda so my concern is look, reliability, fuel economy and maintenance and lastly the re selling price. The vehicle's manufactured year should be at least > 2010. In fact I was interested of, Toyota aqua , Mazda Alexa and Honda insight, So you guys please suggest me a good vehicle, what ever vehicle Other than listed here, I highly value any idea which comes to me , cuz am a complete new to the subject.
  10. Friends, I have a Maruti nd im gonna sell it within next week. And now im willing to buy a second hand car. My budget is 1.8m. I wanna now whether chery Tiggo is good? Or tell me some suggestions for my budget plz
  11. Hi All, I'm a new member in here and greetings to everyone. We bought a Honda Vezel 2014 recently and it's just month ago. Today when I start the vehicle I got some warning messages and some warning lights as in the attached images. I'm very confused about what's happening and I'm afraid whether the previous owner has tricked us. We didn't have a inspection before we purchase the vehicle. Can someone please explain me, what are these warning lights and what actions should I take. Many thanks in advance. PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME !!!
  12. Hi All, I own a honda fit gp1 2012 model which has an ODO of 62,000km. Couple of days ago it suddenly started to indicate the check engine light. We did few scans, one even from St#fford M#tors. All scans indicated that there's a malfunction in Oxygen sensor. Stafford recommended to replace it straight away asked me a ridiculous amount to replace. I took it to a different well known garage and did replace both sensors but yet it keeps indicating the check engine light. A scan would still indicate the same error as previous. Then we replaced the Air filter package. Still the check engine light would not go away. Once the error is erased by the scanner it would start to re-appear again in few minutes after engine turned off and started. Garage now suggested to do a Tune up with cleaning all injectors etc.. Has anyone else faced this kind of a issue before? What would be the cause for this. Also to tell you same day this started to appear I got someone to replace a bulb in the front. It was the right side bulb of the hazard warning lights. Apparently the guy has tried a wrong bulb and a fuse went off causing both lights to non functioning. He then somehow put the fuse back on and fixed the lights with the correct bulb. I actually didn't thought of that far of the replacement and causes of it since that was just a changing a bulb. Could this be any where close the reason for the check engine light? Because it came up only after few mins of replacing the bulb. I know that was just changing a bulb and a fuse . But it came only after that. yet the scanner keeps showing O2 sensor as the error.
  13. Guys, Please can someone advise me on following questions (I'm asking below questions based on the price + quality. Simply I'm trying to find the quality parts/repairs while lowering the cost) 1. Where can I find brand new Honda Vezel (2014) spare parts other than the agents ? 2. Where can I find reconditioned Honda Vezel (2014) spare parts ? 3. Good places to do Electrical/Mechanical repairs other than the agents ? Apart from above questions I need to find the wire harness which is connecting the master servo brake pump. Agents quoted 3 lakhs for that and I'm wondering why it's so costly. Can you guys please help me to find the answers šŸ™‚ Many thanks in advance
  14. Does anyone know what kind of clutch the Grace have? Wet Clutch or Dry Clutch?
  15. Car: Honda Civic FD4 Problem: Engine overheating at long distance journeys and loss of coolant (about 500ml per 30 minutes drive). Observations: Foam creating in the radiator cap (currently running with only water due to coolant loss). Overflow tank getting full all the time after a drive. There are some foam in the overflow tank too. Occasional white smoke during the morning, cold starts. A leak in the radiator core. The mechanic said it takes a longer than usual time for the thermostat valve to be opened. Both fans work without A/C but takes time to turn on. No other visible external locations for coolant leakage. Things Done: Replaced the radiator. Question: What could be the reason? If it's a blown head gasket (or something else), what is the correct procedure to diagnose/fix it?
  16. Honda crv knock sensor 2000 model
  17. What issues are expected to occur(if there are any) when buying a 2006 fd1 that has done 200k km? The vehicle in discussion is regularly maintained throughout at Stafford.
  18. Putzdad

    Honda Fit Liftkit

    Hello, I have a 2010 Honda Fit. The suspension needs repair; it squeaks as I drive over speed bumps. The Fit has been a great car from day 1. However I have never been satisfied with how low the car is to the ground. Since I am going to replace the struts/shocks, I am wondering if there is a liftkit, maybe 6" or so, on the market that I can install at the same time?
  19. Hi Experts., I have idea of buying a Honda civic ek3 or a Mitsubishi lancer Ck series car for later modifying purpose. but for the moment i have no expert or experience with Honda or either Mitsubishi. Currently im sticked to a Toyota and i am pretty sure that,when comparing to a Toyota , Honda & Mitsubishi must have a whole lot difference...I have heard lot of cons and pros between these 2 car vendors...some says Honda maintain cost is considerably high while Mitsubishi have a economical maintenance ETC.... Any how i much appreciate your expert advice's on helping me to decide either go for a Honda EK3 Or a Mitsubishi Ck series! Thanks in advance.
  20. in my auto gear honda fit hybrid car, (mileage 56 000 KM) I had a engine tune up and changed my injectors (8 injectors) last month and after 2 weeks i started getting a slight knock (jerk or shaking). i remember i have had this once or twice in the last 6 month but it wasnt noticeable and looked like to be as a miss. anyway, now everyday morning when i start the car and drive for like half and hour or hour, it goes smooth and nice. and then in a while it gives the knock. (the time is not fixed, some days in 45 minutes, and some days in 30 minutes and sometimes in 20 minutes after first starting to drive it comes) The knock is like, when i stop at a traffic light and accelerate it comes. it only comes after a break or a stop and accelerate so it comes in low speed. then when driving with the knock, it gets a bit worst and knock (jerk or shaking) goes up, when i drive a little more it becomes more worse. then when i stop for few hours and start back then knock (jerk or shaking) is less and smoothness is bad. so i figured out this is something to do with a heat. when one of vehcile's part becomes very hot it gives the knock. so i went to a small mechanic and as advised changed my Gear box oil (ATF). it didnt fix the issue. then i took it to Honda company by when i got a check engine light and they told to run without the EGR valve, then i did it that and noticed that knock (jerk or shaking) is 50% less but car is not at all smooth. (it takes too much power and was hard) i felt so when driving. then they told to clean it the EGR and drive as the Honda company diagnosed EGR valve is causing trouble. after cleaning it didnt work, so as they told i changed the EGR valve which costed around 500$. And then my vehicle was super smooth and very very comfortable to drive. later after few hours of driving here comes the same knock (jerk or shaking). which confused me. apart from that the honda company told this is not a problem with gear box, (which means they told its not a judgger) Then i took it back to my local bass as he suspected it can also sometimes cause with fault fuel pump. then i changed that too. still the issue is not fixed. Now after having a small internet research i found this is a bit common issue, but only issue is finding the exact issue is difficult. Now i am confused what to do, Company told they will need to remove the transmission and see in the worst case. some times if its a damaged flyweel it can happen. so before taking it to any place anymore to repair i just want to get an experts advise here. Should i check in to these things ? Spark Plug Wires or Spark Plug Starter clutch ignition coil | coil packs motor mount flywheel I really appreciate any feedback that will help me to sort out this issue.
  21. Dear all, I'll be grateful if you can share your experience of the 2010 Honda Civic 2010 FD3 (Hybrid) Vehicle. I searched the forum but had very little luck of previous posts. I would like to know about general information on Hybrid performance, comfortability and maintenance. At the moment my budget is only sufficient for a 2012 Aqua, Honda 2012 P5 or the above mentioned Civic. I prefer hybrids because fuel cost is a main concern for me followed by comfort. TIA for all your suggestions and comments.
  22. Hi everyone, I've been sorta interested in buying a EF Civic Hatchback as my first car. Just wanna know whether it's a easy car to maintain and source parts for in Sri Lanka. I know the EG and EK variants are a lot easier to own but the price of the EF is very inviting
  23. Hi, I am driving a 2019 Civic ex. I gotta replace the Turbo having driven only 28,000km. Heard most of the civic users are facing this issue. Suspect it was caused by the semi synthetic engine oil. The cost of repairing is pretty high as well. Looking for advice or any recommendations. Need to know which exactly cause this issue! cheers.
  24. 'm planning to upgrade my WagonR 2018 for a Honda vezel 2015/14. Will it be a wise decision? When comparing the price difference in SL of Vezel 2014/2015 vs Vezel RS Sensing is almost 2 million. Is it better decision to go for RS Sensing Model at once or Later upgrade to that? Highly appreciate your expertise ideas. Thank you.
  25. When my car is not in use for a while, I have to "warm" it up for about 20-25mins before I pull off. If I don't do that, the gears will not engage unless I press the gas pedal to about 2000-3000rpm, and then it jerks really hard before moving. While driving though, I have no problem. The problem only occurs when the car is cold. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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