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Cool Ebay Gadgets For Cars


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I have the same unit,this is only a modulator, which means this can play the audio files on the phone via the car stereo. although this comes with a battery inside, you'll have to keep it plugged in continuously to have enough signal strength to reduce the interference from other FM channels,

As you mentioned, we can't tune a radio channel using this unit, this would only broadcast the audio on a selected frequency. Since Sri Lanka has more radio channels than what it really needs, you'll have hard time fixing up for one frequency, i generally use 89.0,89.1 and 89.3 depending on where I am.

Finally got one which can be plugged into cigarette lighter. It has a built in FM modulator, we need to set the same frequency on the device and the vehicle's audio set. Later I can plugin a pen drive or play songs form phone via bluetooth. Works just fine and audio quality isn't that bad at all.

I got something like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Car-Kit-MP3-Bluetooth-Player-FM-Transmitter-Modulator-SD-USB-Remote-M0BG-/131587593098?hash=item1ea33b538a

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You could get a competitive brand, USED for a lot less mate, check that "Quick" sale site

and its likely you'll get held by customs and taxed a max of 47% so be sure to add that value when comparing.

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You could get a competitive brand, USED for a lot less mate, check that "Quick" sale site

and its likely you'll get held by customs and taxed a max of 47% so be sure to add that value when comparing.

I checked there, the ones for sale there are expensive than this and got less power. I'll be bringing this from Aussie by myself if I buy it

This has an RMS 300W and peak 900W. Im not very familiar with subwoofers. I know something above 1000W for a woofer makes a huge difference but i'm kind of confused whether this would make noticeable difference. My cousin has one in his Prius, i dont know how powerful that is, I highly doubt whether he knows either, that one produced good bass(better than normal speakers) but not the kind of bass you get from a woofer.

Was curious if anyone here has tried one with a similar power output or has any idea regarding woofers.

I know RMS and peak are not the same thing

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I found another one with better output and cheaper too, this sounds like a good deal

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dual-BAK1550-8-1000W-Active-Powered-UnderSeat-Shallow-Slim-Loaded-Car-Subwoofer-/351472212727

$_57.JPG

Features:

  • Dual BAK1550 8" 1000W Active/Powered UnderSeat/Shallow Slim Loaded Car Subwoofer
  • Power Handling: 1600 Watts Peak Power
  • Woofer Size: 8"
  • Cone Material Aluminum
  • Surround Material Rubber
  • Impedance: SVC 2 Ohm
  • Voice Coil Size: 2"
  • Magnet Weight: 30oz.
  • Signal to Noise Ratio 85dB
  • Frequency Response 25Hz - 150Hz
  • Crossover Frequency 50Hz - 150Hz - Variable
  • Controls Input Gain and Crossover
  • Crossover Slope 6dB/octave
  • Phase Control 0-180 degrees
  • Signal Input Low-level (RCA) and High-level (speaker wire)
  • Power Wire Gauge: 10 AWG
  • Speaker Wire Gauge: 18 AWG
  • Remote Bass Control Included
  • Power LED Indicator
  • Built-In Protetion Circuit
  • Fuse: 25A
  • Enclosure Dimensions: (WxHxD) 3" x 9.6" x 11.4"
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This kinda output would be rather loud, even for a large cabin such as the Hiace, I doubt you'll be able to use more than 20% of it whilst driving.

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This kinda output would be rather loud, even for a large cabin such as the Hiace, I doubt you'll be able to use more than 20% of it whilst driving.

Apparently that one isnt powerful as it says

the manufacturer's website says:

Peak Power 1000 Watts

and i came across another one with POOOOOWWWWEERRRR and more expensive too

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSS-AUDIO-BASS1400-10-1400W-SLIM-LOW-PROFILE-AMPLIFIED-POWERED-SUBWOOFER-CAR-/181131837760?hash=item2a2c4c8140

Power Handling:

RMS: 700 watts( except the manufacturer's site all others says the same thing, manufacturer says 1050 Watts)

MAX: 1400 watts

It has good rating and its sold in US too

I dont understand why the famous brands like Pioneer or Blaupunkt has less powered ones

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Why are HB3 Night breaker unlimited bulbs so expensive? they cost close to 5,000rs.

Can someone check whether its the same if its bought from SL?

I paid similar for my HB4 set,

actually only H4 s are cheap, maybe due to their high turnover

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I paid similar for my HB4 set,

actually only H4 s are cheap, maybe due to their high turnover

Yeah maybe

or because HB3 and HB4 are new bulb types

The HB4 I bought was 4,300 odd

bdw does anyone know why vehicles have different types of bulbs?

Edited by Magnum
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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Magnum" data-cid="282213" data-time="1441257477"><p>

<br />

Yeah maybe<br />

or because HB3 and HB4 are new bulb types<br />

<br />

The HB4 I bought was 4,300 odd<br />

<br />

bdw does anyone know why vehicles have different types of bulbs? </p></blockquote>

Many different reasons to have different bulb types

A) headlight single reflector vs double. Some cars have one single reflector in which case both high and low beams need to be in one bulb, dual filament bulbs are used for this (H4)

If there are seperate reflector for high and low single filament bulbs are used (H1, H3, H7)

B ) Voltage and wattage differences. Each connector type has a standard voltage and wattage of their own. It's easier to identify this way.

C) hb series has angled connectors making it easy to install.

Edited by The Stig
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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Magnum" data-cid="282213" data-time="1441257477"><p>

<br />

Yeah maybe<br />

or because HB3 and HB4 are new bulb types<br />

<br />

The HB4 I bought was 4,300 odd<br />

<br />

bdw does anyone know why vehicles have different types of bulbs? </p></blockquote>

Many different reasons to have different bulb types

A) headlight single reflector vs double. Some cars have one single reflector in which case both high and low beams need to be in one bulb, dual filament bulbs are used for this (H4)

If there are seperate reflector for high and low single filament bulbs are used (H1, H3, H7)

B ) Voltage and wattage differences. Each connector type has a standard voltage and wattage of their own. It's easier to identify this way.

C) hb series has angled connectors making it easy to install.

I knew the single filament, double filament part earlier

But then again there's different single filament bulbs too, is that cuz of the second point you have mentioned? HB3 is 60w where as HB4 is 51W, they have standardized each bulb with a wattage for specific usage rather than having a single type and meddling with the wattage?

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I knew the single filament, double filament part earlier

But then again there's different single filament bulbs too, is that cuz of the second point you have mentioned? HB3 is 60w where as HB4 is 51W, they have standardized each bulb with a wattage for specific usage rather than having a single type and meddling with the wattage?

Wild guess; may have something to do with countries too

Euro, Jap, 'Murican,

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I knew the single filament, double filament part earlier

But then again there's different single filament bulbs too, is that cuz of the second point you have mentioned? HB3 is 60w where as HB4 is 51W, they have standardized each bulb with a wattage for specific usage rather than having a single type and meddling with the wattage?

Different applications require different outputs, for an example fog lights vs main lights is one reason.

If you use higher wattage bulbs in fog lamps because of heat of the bulb lifespan would be reduced plus it could damage the reflectors, likewise it makes no sense to use the same wattage bulb in a headlight.

Another reason is manufacture preferences like tiv said.

Edited by The Stig
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Yeah maybe

or because HB3 and HB4 are new bulb types

The HB4 I bought was 4,300 odd

bdw does anyone know why vehicles have different types of bulbs?

Because car manufacturers are stupid. And because they vary in levels of stupid they use different types of bulbs based on the degree of the design engineering team's overall stupidity.

Eg. I have H9's for high beam and H11 for low beams. Why?

Why give me a low powered bulb for my low beams and a high powered one for my secondary high beams (which I use less often)? Because the high powered bulbs burn out faster and because you need to take the entire front bumper off to replace the bulbs. Since its a drag to keep taking the bumper off, and swapping out high performance bulbs when they burn out; I guess they thought the solution was to have low powered bulbs as the primary source of light. Great, so here I am stuck with shitty lighting or with the option of pissing off everyone on the road by using the high-beams.

Why did they design a car like this, where you have to take the bumper off to get at the light bulbs in the first place? 'Cos they are stupid.

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Because car manufacturers are stupid. And because they vary in levels of stupid they use different types of bulbs based on the degree of the design engineering team's overall stupidity.

Eg. I have H9's for high beam and H11 for low beams. Why?

Why give me a low powered bulb for my low beams and a high powered one for my secondary high beams (which I use less often)? Because the high powered bulbs burn out faster and because you need to take the entire front bumper off to replace the bulbs. Since its a drag to keep taking the bumper off, and swapping out high performance bulbs when they burn out; I guess they thought the solution was to have low powered bulbs as the primary source of light. Great, so here I am stuck with shitty lighting or with the option of pissing off everyone on the road by using the high-beams.

Why did they design a car like this, where you have to take the bumper off to get at the light bulbs in the first place? 'Cos they are stupid.

Im curious, what car are you using?

Normally you can easily pull out the fog lamp bulbs by going underneath the car

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Im curious, what car are you using?

Normally you can easily pull out the fog lamp bulbs by going underneath the car

No this isn't for the fog lights its for the main headlight / high beam and low beam (and indicator bulbs); and this is the case in most of the newer Nissan sedans with the wrap around style boomerang headlights.

You could go underneath the car; but that means taking off the wheel liners and reaching underneath through the wheel wells. The repair / maintenance manual lists taking off the bumper as the standard procedure; but on user forums members have listed work more practical work around methods for the passenger side, like removing the wiper fluid reservoir to gain access etc. but for the driver's-side changing the bulbs necessitates removing the bumper or taking off the wheel-well liners for access.

Either way its dumb but then again we had the same shit set-up on the VW we used to have (where you had to take off the bumper for access to the headlights). But at least on the newer VW's they've got a removable flap in the wheel-well liner for easier access; a practical idea that I hope Nissan ends up following...

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No this isn't for the fog lights its for the main headlight / high beam and low beam (and indicator bulbs); and this is the case in most of the newer Nissan sedans with the wrap around style boomerang headlights.

You could go underneath the car; but that means taking off the wheel liners and reaching underneath through the wheel wells. The repair / maintenance manual lists taking off the bumper as the standard procedure; but on user forums members have listed work more practical work around methods for the passenger side, like removing the wiper fluid reservoir to gain access etc. but for the driver's-side changing the bulbs necessitates removing the bumper or taking off the wheel-well liners for access.

Either way its dumb but then again we had the same shit set-up on the VW we used to have (where you had to take off the bumper for access to the headlights). But at least on the newer VW's they've got a removable flap in the wheel-well liner for easier access; a practical idea that I hope Nissan ends up following...

This is the first time I have heard of removing the bumper to replace the headlight bulbs even in vans its not that hard. In the Hiace you need to take our the grill, then the headlight set but you can squeeze your hand in and replace the high beam bulbs only.

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6000LM CREE LED Car Headlight Kit 30W each

Apparently these dont need a kit, its plug and play. The bulb comes with an inbuilt cooling fan though

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161678809330?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=460652866346&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

$_57.JPG

I just remembered I posted about these LED bulbs, I actually didnt buy them after doing some research. I'm not sure about factory LEDs but these aftermarket ones dont seem to be that successful

They seem to project most of the light sideways rather than straight ahead, it could be due to the fact that the LEDs are placed on the side of the bulb. The result of the light not being projected straight ahead is that you wont be able to see the objects ahead of you until they get closer to you.

However LEDs on light bars are different. They seem to be fine.

Edited by Magnum
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Cool Blue Intense vs Nightbreaker Unlimited

Night_breaker.jpg

Cool_blue_intense.jpg

Cool Blue has the same output at Nightbreaker for HB3 and HB4, also for most others. I think I'm gonna with cool blue intense for my high beams, its cheaper and same color temp as my HID

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Cool Blue Intense vs Nightbreaker Unlimited

Night_breaker.jpg

Cool_blue_intense.jpg

Cool Blue has the same output at Nightbreaker for HB3 and HB4, also for most others. I think I'm gonna with cool blue intense for my high beams, its cheaper and same color temp as my HID

I'm going to wait for your verdict on this, as my other car has a set of tired H4s which I'd like to replace,

Please do post those pics!

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