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Engine Miss When Climbing Hill


mensoft

Question

Hi AL Experts ,

Please give me a quick answer why this can be happen ?

my car running all smooth without no issue at all. but now from few days when it climbing a hill engine is missing . even if its in first gear and accelerate.

why this can be ? its only if car have to climb a hill :sad-smiley-066: .

Car is Lancer A72 (1976) .

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Hi ,

Pair of wire to make coil and put on a jet :speechless-smiley-003: ?

is this advisable to do ?

image002.jpg

Just look at this

http://www.elpasoparagliding.com/PPGTechInfo/MiniPlane/HRServiceNotes/CarbModification/jetmod.htm

If the A/F ratio in your car is rich then there must be something wrong somewhere. Blocking the main jet in this manner may not be a solution to the problem. Moreover a loose wire piece like this may not give a precise metering of fuel in the long run. Although I cannot recommend this as a solution, I would never discourage you from experimenting. The only time ever I modified a stock main jet was in a Mazda 929. All I did then was closing the main jet with lead solder and drilling it with a precision drill bit make a fresh orifice. It worked really well.

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If the A/F ratio in your car is rich then there must be something wrong somewhere. Blocking the main jet in this manner may not be a solution to the problem. Moreover a loose wire piece like this may not give a precise metering of fuel in the long run. Although I cannot recommend this as a solution, I would never discourage you from experimenting. The only time ever I modified a stock main jet was in a Mazda 929. All I did then was closing the main jet with lead solder and drilling it with a precision drill bit make a fresh orifice. It worked really well.

Rumesh,

I found the issue and fixed myself and now everything perfectly fine.

I removed carburetor form the car and assemble each and every to pieces, pieces . :smilie_liebe9: ( was thinking in worst case to bring the used carb rather spending money for repairs) any way after removed i compare old parts with new . the two main jets are really different in sizes. the new size are really big than older ones. but cant use the old one those are damaged when removing . so i chek those jets in spar part shop and in one please i found those and one is just Rs.30/= only so any way i brought from 4 from different sizes and fixed the small one to main jet . and fix the carb.

:sport-smiley-004: After few min from the first start there are water drops from the exhaust.

and i able to slow the idle another bit and clean the spark plugs too. i can feel the different when accelerating.and now all is well . and just a tiny hole in a jet made a this much different.

sorry for the pictures i couldn't take photos bcoz not able to touch the camera and this time i did all alone. otherwise i could post those as DIY carb project.

Any way thanks for all your support . later ill send you the vacuum line diagram which i doubt .

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Rumesh ,

As i promised here the pictures of my carb in final stage. this is what its as now and its working fine. Ill try to explain as much as i can becoz pictures are not that clear. i marked those lines ad A B C .... .

In this picture "C" is like just close. its not connecting to anywhere. mean other side of that plastic filter is not connecting to any place. but as lt looks there was two lines in the other side of the plastic filter but now those not connected to any places. and i just check that filter (from the mouth) its almost block from every side.

its no use at all.

what is this ?

in my earlier post this the one i marked in red arrow and my one doubt it this .

w7lo1s.jpg

In this picture left side "A" is Y connector and other end goes to the other side of the carburator .

"A" in the middle body of the carburator only i asked it hasto be closed or is it correct this way.

2me1qon.jpg

This is the other side of the "A" connection. this also im bit confuse ill explain it in next picture .

2nqeerm.jpg

As per this picture is "A" correct ?

is "D" correct ? this is the secondary and to open in high does it has to connect with "A" ? this is the way it was even before i remove the carb. but this way if i fully open the primary the secondary is not opening. im sure diaphragm is working and if i suck it (from the mouth when engine off :speechless-smiley-004:. coz no other option to check) and try fully accelerate after like 3/4 of the primary open secondary also start opening. so then am i ok in this side or does it need to do any changes .

Any way "D" currently connected to secondary has no any sucking even fully accelerate or not . "A" has the suction when accelerating.

2e4kef9.jpg

I would like to really thankful for all your support .

please help me on this too its all work fine as now but i feel those vacuum connections are not in proper way. :sad-smiley-058:

Edited by mensoft
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@mensoft

Connection D is correct. Secondary would not open just because you open the primary throttle wide open. When you move the primary throttle around 3/4 of travel the cam mechanism (which prevents premature opening on 2ndary) releases the secondary throttle. As long as it is connected correct and the dash pot operates it should work.

As for "C" the other side of the check valve should go to a vacuum port on the inlet manifold. See if there is one which is kept blocked. As for "A" and "B" I believe they are correct on their own, but one of them must have come through the check valve connected to "C". This part I cannot confirm. BTW is the vacuum line to distributor intact?

Edited by Rumesh88
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@mensoft

Connection D is correct. Secondary would not open just because you open the primary throttle wide open. When you move the primary throttle around 3/4 of travel the cam mechanism (which prevents premature opening on 2ndary) releases the secondary throttle. As long as it is connected correct and the dash pot operates it should work.

As for "C" the other side of the check valve should go to a vacuum port on the inlet manifold. See if there is one which is kept blocked. As for "A" and "B" I believe they are correct on their own, but one of them must have come through the check valve connected to "C". This part I cannot confirm. BTW is the vacuum line to distributor intact?

As I Remember there is no any vacuum lines connected to distributor .

let me take a distributor picture and post here. any way my engine is G11B. if you have original A72 vacuum diagram will really help.

Edited by mensoft
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Hi Rumesh ,

Here the picture of distributor . there is one vacuum line. but its not connected to any.

but as i check in the YouTube this call distributor vacuum advance right ?. and i open the cap and checked it works when suck that line.

So where i should connect this ?

juaera.jpg

Also there is another gadget like this i hope there too should come some vacuum line .

or it it something else ?

what is this part ?

2zpl3dt.jpg

And here the whole picture of carb together with distributor .

oap0mv.jpg

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The connection from vacuum advancer to the inlet manifold is a must. You must have a manifold vacuum port near the idle mixture adjustment screw. I do not know if it is plugged up now or connected elsewhere but this connection is a basic requirement. The gadget in the 2nd picture is a thermo valve to control EGR mechanism. A makabaas seems to have messed up with all the vacuum lines. I do not have a vacuum diagram for A72 model. Let's see if some other member can help you with it. Meanwhile see if you ca make sense of the MCA-IIB vacuum diagram given in http://www.headlightmag.com/main/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=934:mitsubishi-lancer-the-complete-history-36-part-1-sedan-c-l-&catid=98:automobile-history&Itemid=78 link though it does not fit exactly with yours.

Edited by Rumesh88
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The connection from vacuum advancer to the inlet manifold is a must. You must have a manifold vacuum port near the idle mixture adjustment screw. I do not know if it is plugged up now or connected elsewhere but this connection is a basic requirement. The gadget in the 2nd picture is a thermo valve to control EGR mechanism. A makabaas seems to have messed up with all the vacuum lines. I do not have a vacuum diagram for A72 model. Let's see if some other member can help you with it. Meanwhile see if you ca make sense of the MCA-IIB vacuum diagram given in http://www.headlightmag.com/main/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=934:mitsubishi-lancer-the-complete-history-36-part-1-sedan-c-l-&catid=98:automobile-history&Itemid=78 link though it does not fit exactly with yours.

Oh :sad-smiley-058: I feel :sport-smiley-002: about makabas.

Any way lets try fix this too my self.this the current scenario. as per this picture I'm sure yellow line is the one your telling about "manifold vacuum port near the idle mixture adjustment screw" . and the other end of that just loop. it may be not clear in the picture so ill highlight it in red.basically as this way its just like close.

is this end has to loop this way ? i feel that also wrong.

see below

fy1lao.jpg

Next then i Google and found these two. :sport-smiley-004: :sport-smiley-004:

0900c15280053c99.jpg iop8i0.jpg

So according to above two pictures shall i correct mine as below ?

Can you give some advice .I really appreciate your help and spending your valuable time for helping me so far im really success with all the changes i made on your advice . Thank you so much again.

2ia8z2w.jpg

Edited by mensoft
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Oh :sad-smiley-058: I feel :sport-smiley-002: about makabas.

Any way lets try fix this too my self.this the current scenario. as per this picture I'm sure yellow line is the one your telling about "manifold vacuum port near the idle mixture adjustment screw" . and the other end of that just loop. it may be not clear in the picture so ill highlight it in red.basically as this way its just like close.

is this end has to loop this way ? i feel that also wrong.

see below

fy1lao.jpg

Next then i Google and found these two. :sport-smiley-004: :sport-smiley-004:

0900c15280053c99.jpg iop8i0.jpg

So according to above two pictures shall i correct mine as below ?

Can you give some advice .I really appreciate your help and spending your valuable time for helping me so far im really success with all the changes i made on your advice . Thank you so much again.

2ia8z2w.jpg

mensoft,

Makabas will not exist very long. Due to every thing in Automobiles will have to be scanned before any repair.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

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What is given in those two diagrams is a logical arrangement that should work because when the coolant temperature is low the distributor gets carb vacuum and hence it is not advanced a lot. As the temperature goes up the other port of the thermo valve opens manifold vacuum to the distributor. But the question is how you are going to see if the whole thing works or not! Unless of course you have a timing light with you. If the arrangement works you should get a slight increase in idle RPM when the engine is hot and if you leave the distributor at its current setting you may even hear a pinging noise when you try to accelerate. Anyway since it is a matter of a few additional tubing, why not give it a try. But in the end we must look for the exact vacuum hose routing and fix it for good. If you can assemble a few electronic components I can send you a simple schematic to build an timing light with a few LEDs. If so PM your email.

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Hi Rumesh,

Making the timing light and testing seems bit complicated. as per the post 30 "B" is working only when accelerate.

So I just connect it to the distributor advance.

seems its works fine coz yday i just tried some climbing and tried brake in middle and climb again did't felt any difficult like early . and its gaining speed beter than early when accelerate while climb.

any way lest try a long run and see how it works .

Again Thank you for all the support . :pardon:

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Well I am Seeking some advices from experts to identify a similar issue which am facing these days.

what actually happens is car is start to miss when climbing hills and its very bad sometimes, earlier it’s only for hills but now on all road conditions randomly.

And it’s really difficult to start some times after parking for few hours from few days back. Need to press gas paddle few times for that.

What I initially suspect was it’s due an faulty petrol pump.

I met my mechanic and he changes the plug wires to check this but no use.

Next we change the petrol pump and that also failed as car is still having the issue.

His next plan is to check the head gasket as above two failed and plugs also seems to be good in conditions. What he said was when engine comes to working temperature even if there is a tiny leak in head gasket it might give this miss.

What you guys are think on this? I need to confirm this before I open the engine.

Model Honda Ek3

V tec auto

Fully efi tune up done replaced the petrol filter as well.

Fuel consumption is ok

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Well Mahesh, I don't really know much but it will be worthwhile to check the fuel non-return valve if your car has one ( it should have :). It could be built in to the pump as well, in that case forget it, you changed the pump noh ? )

Edited by NRX
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Thanks bro was able to solve it today luckily by replacing only all four plugs. no miss at all.

When you replaced the plug wires didn't you notice anything out of ordinary with the plugs?

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