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Engine heat goes up in traffic driving


asanka_rg

Question

hello everyone,

I recently bought a 2003 Suzuki swift jeep model. I have noticed a heat indicator going above the middle mark (3/4) but it went down in few minutes. Moreover I drived in Katunayaka highway and heat indicator was on and below middle mark or the heat gauge.

I doubt that radiator got some blocks and i flushed and refill the coolant. But the same issue is still there. Is this a bad thermostat or give me some advice on this will be highly appreciated.

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hi I changed the thermo switch (temp sensor). I drove up hill. Looks fine gauge is steady bit below the middle mark. ??

thanks everyone for giving me valuable comments on this.

I'll update other thread regarding the vibration on drive with brake. ?

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Having a similar kind of issue. Same car HT51S. First it started with random heat going maximum. I cleaned the radiator and filled new coolant. Problem was ok for about a month and my radiator fan died suddenly. (Maybe it overworked previously.) Replace and it was fine for a month. Then again around 1 month after I saw RPM meter varies as idle. I did a engine tuneup and OBD scan reveled issue with Cam sensor. (P0335) I replaced both Cam and Crank sensors. Again it was fine few days and again it heated up. After letting it cool down I reached home without any issues. (Without AC that is as a precaution) Once home I checked and saw little coolant was missing. Guess through reservoir.. Could this be ECT sensor, Thermostat, Radiator cap or something else. Whats the correct way or place to find out. 

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Having a similar kind of issue. Same car HT51S. First it started with random heat going maximum. I cleaned the radiator and filled new coolant. Problem was ok for about a month and my radiator fan died suddenly. (Maybe it overworked previously.) Replace and it was fine for a month. Then again around 1 month after I saw RPM meter varies as idle. I did a engine tuneup and OBD scan reveled issue with Cam sensor. (P0335) I replaced both Cam and Crank sensors. Again it was fine few days and again it heated up. After letting it cool down I reached home without any issues. (Without AC that is as a precaution) Once home I checked and saw little coolant was missing. Guess through reservoir.. Could this be ECT sensor, Thermostat, Radiator cap or something else. Whats the correct way or place to find out. 
Coolant missing means that its going into the coolant reserve and overflowing (or entering into the cylinder, worse case scenario).
How certain are you that the fans are working properly?
And do you see any coolant on the floor after you park the car?

Go to a good garage and get them to do a bottle test and a pressure test, they will test for any leaks or head gasket damage.

Also when your car overheats you should turn the ac on, not turn it off. Sure there is additional load but when the ac is on it makes sure that the radiator fans are on always [emoji16]

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9 hours ago, The Stig said:

Coolant missing means that its going into the coolant reserve and overflowing (or entering into the cylinder, worse case scenario).
How certain are you that the fans are working properly?
And do you see any coolant on the floor after you park the car?

Go to a good garage and get them to do a bottle test and a pressure test, they will test for any leaks or head gasket damage.

Also when your car overheats you should turn the ac on, not turn it off. Sure there is additional load but when the ac is on it makes sure that the radiator fans are on always emoji16.png

Sent from my [device_name] using http://AutoLanka.com mobile app powered by Tapatalk
 

Yes its going into the coolant reserve and overflowing. There are coolant on engine and surrounding which were overflew. 

Fans I checked with the mechanic and they working as intended at correct speeds. Done bottle test and no bubble so they told gaskets are ok. And no leaks either. 

Sure next time will keep AC on. Thanks Stig.

Update 2: So I went to new garage and unfolded the history. After initial checks they went straight for thermostat. It was faulty and opens only a little. Also showed signs of a previous seize. Checked water pump and it was squeegeeing when raotate from hand. Both needed to be replaced. Its getting fixed now. Will update with the progress soon. 

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On 4/24/2018 at 7:59 AM, Twin Turbo said:

How's the rad cap? was a compression leak test done?

Radiator cap was in good shape. If you mean "compression leak test" is on radiator, yes done and was ok. 

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Update 3: Much better experience after Pump/Thermostat change. Although on a test ride in heavy traffic again heat went up and came down few times. Although the radiator was cleaned before the mechanic suggested to check again. Cleaned inside and outside along with AC condenser. So far seems the issue is ok now. After a journey I feel the car get less hot (engine compartment) now. With that again back to lower RPM issue, No problem as long as the vehicle is on the move. But when at complete stop the RPM goes below 700 and car starts a little vibrate. Not sure whether a ICV or TPS issue. 

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On 5/2/2018 at 9:50 PM, SKAF said:

Update 3: Much better experience after Pump/Thermostat change. Although on a test ride in heavy traffic again heat went up and came down few times. Although the radiator was cleaned before the mechanic suggested to check again. Cleaned inside and outside along with AC condenser. So far seems the issue is ok now. After a journey I feel the car get less hot (engine compartment) now. With that again back to lower RPM issue, No problem as long as the vehicle is on the move. But when at complete stop the RPM goes below 700 and car starts a little vibrate. Not sure whether a ICV or TPS issue. 

Have you changed the coolant sensor?

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We had a similar issue with a FB-15, it started with loss of  cold air with the AC in traffic and later the Radiator temp was rising also. After inspection, we found out that one of the two fans on the radiator was having a shotty connection after some water had got in to the  connector, it would sporadically not power up the fan but as the AC fan was running half of the time, and with the air blown in through the shell was temperature was somehow managed, but once the AC fan died, the last line of defence failed and it started over heating. 

 

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