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Lancer EX Running Repairs and Maintenance


trinity
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13 hours ago, K.o.N.o.S said:

Thanks @iRage for sharing. The link has some of the sickest wheels that I have seen on lancers. Also I noticed that in most cases rear fenders needed some work. However the wheel specs that I am considering has slight differences compared to what I have at the moment. So Yeah it's quite probable that those will fit in without any issues. Let's see, anyway I am going to dig deeper into this before I proceed.

Looking forward to seeing what she will end up looking like. 

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On 5/5/2021 at 2:13 AM, K.o.N.o.S said:

@trinity @Davy @Hyaenidae Question for you guys. As you may know I am currently running with stock Lancer GT wheels ( 18" x 7", 5x114mm with 46mm offset). I am seriously thinking about getting some new wheels for the car. I am currently in love with the following which is pretty Bad A*S looking to my eye (or perhaps something similar). Wheel specs= (18" x 7.5", 5x114.3 with +45mm Offset). Question is will these fit my car without any space problems or without any other issues?

Yep, they'll fit without any issues. For that rim, you should probably go for a 225x40R18 tyres. What size tyres are you running on the Lancer GT rimes at the moment?

The Evo X BBS rims look exactly like the ones in your photo. They are 18x8.5 +38 offset, and a more aggressive fit.  This is what I have. You'd have to use 235 wide tyres. If you go higher than 235, the rears will rub on the wheel arch on load. Especially since your car is already lowered.

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Davy said:

What size tyres are you running on the Lancer GT rimes at the moment?

I am currently running with 225x45R18. I cant afford to spend on new tyres as the cost will hit me with a blast.

 

10 hours ago, Davy said:

The Evo X BBS rims look exactly like the ones in your photo

Yes that is actually one of the reasons. Also I seem to like the matte bronze finish on the wheels. I think they will get along nicely with the color. similar to this. you get the idea.

Blue.jpeg

Edited by K.o.N.o.S
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  • 2 months later...

 

CV Joint replacement

 

Hello Gents!

Here's my story short. I've been a Toyota car owner for 5 years and decided to give a chance to car enthusiastic inside me to go for a Lance ex. So i've done it (special thanks for wife's approval :) ) and now I'm a proud owner of 2014 Lance Ex . I've bought the car 2 months back with 121K mileage on it. It was with 2nd owner and most of the running repairs were completed. So far its been a pleasant experience with the car for me. However i am missing the low maintenance cost on my Toyota given that i'm tight on budget after insurance payment and all. 

 

Going  back to the thread, Kudos to everyone who started this and your information helped a lot for me. So it felt like my duty to add back my experience here so one day it will be useful for someone :)

 

One month after i bought the car, heard some *tuku tuku noise on hard slow cornering. Initially thought it was from front shocks but as per one of relation who owns are garage told me it was definitely the CV. I had him inspected the joint, previous owner has replaced the boots but not the joints. I wanted the change the as soon as possible since I'm driving long distance often & sometimes in windy roads.

He (my relation) told me that there would be spares to be easily found ,but without knowing the inner no of teeth's/groves its hard to find the exact part. So i found this thread and found that @trinity has mentioned the exact outer and inner groves of the CV. But as per what i read his was CY2 where as mine was CY1 and the Mitsubishi part numbers were different for the two models

CY2: 3815A169/3815A170

CY1: 3815A454/3815A459

So i had no choice other than cutting open the cv to check the inner groves, for my luck/unluck its the same grove number as CY2, so i called WIMAL MOTORS MORATUWA where Trinity got his and guess what!, they dont have the part in stock. They checked with their supplier  & informed me they would get the part within two weeks and it will cost more than 20K for once piece.

I called UniMO and yes it is still correct, they dont have the "CV joint only" they only do the front axle replacement which cost 187K for once side. so for both sides it should be close to 400K with service charges. Well well well! at that point i though no way im going to pay my honest money to these buggers no matter what and decided to go for ordering the part from FEBEST (part number 0410-CY2) special thanks to @Hyaenidaefor the link and part number. But guess what!, you are correct trinity these things don't work out easily in car business, that's not how it happens lol.

So FEBEST guys got my VIN and said the mentioned part did not match my vehicle :( . Now i had no where else to go. I had already contacted almost all the part shops in Sri Lanka and non the part matching my car. Then i was looking for a reconditioned part and  reconditioned parts almost don't exist for this vehicle.

Now with my car in garage for two days i was getting tensed and started  measuring the dimensions of the removed CV joint and just like that It was exactly matching the description provided by FEBEST. So at this point i had to take a chance either to wait for WIMAL motors to get the part and do it myself. I took a chance, went with my instincts and ordered the part, they shipped via DHL express.

2 x CV joint with boot/greese/rings : LKR 16000

DHL Charges: LKR 14000

Taxes :D : LKR 22000 (with extra DHL charges for documentation)

I got the part within 9 days of order placement and this mostly depend on the time taken for custom clearance in Sri Lanka.

I was so nervous(couldn't sleep lol) until the part reached here and i wanted it to match dearly. My chance paid off and it was a exact match (sigh!!!!). I replaced both my joints, altogether it cost me around LKR 60000 for the whole job.

 

Summary

CV joint for CY1 & CY2 are same (Inner teeth = 30 / Outer teeth = 28/ Diameter = 59.5 mm)

 

So that's my tale! hope someone find this information usefull!

Oh! and almost forgot. Original CV joint had 8 balls and the new ones only had 6 balls. That was one of the reason i decided to change both joints.

Noticed from the photos that there were only 6 balls in @trinity's new CVs as well, given that you have changed only once side, have you noticed any difference or issue with running on 6 ball CV?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On 1/26/2020 at 8:29 PM, trinity said:

Continued from last post.

So I gladly took that offer. They wanted the chassis number of the car (which I had with me) to be sent with the measurements of the CV joint to the supplier. Finally they found the part and informed that price of a one is Rs.15k and its not HDK as well. Didn't have any other option but to buy them, so ordered two. After few hours I had the parts.

It's Chinese I guess, and imported from Dubai. 

 IMG_1416.thumb.JPG.a1743ff48604103a7227f80b89d51efd.JPGIMG_1417.thumb.JPG.95a794dcf91d1303719f69b93455b967.JPGIMG_1418.thumb.JPG.b446a0e512091ea69b000ad1d31fa403.JPGIMG_1420.thumb.JPG.6d99ffcd9de668e41965d1a4fdd373a2.JPGIMG_1422.thumb.JPG.c88d50afac8f306bf465d902db8f571b.JPGIMG_1423.thumb.JPG.549c80312144be191f4c772e3ffe46aa.JPG

It's a complete kit, The CV joint, Boot, Grease and boot tightening metallic straps. 

Quality wise it didn't seem bad and the boot was also much better. Its a rubber boot though. The genuine one is not rubber.

Remember you Lancer EX owners, if this happened to you, the number of grooves in the CV joint are as follows.

Outer - 28

Inner - 30

The important thing is that it is not possible to count the inner number of grooves of the existing CV joint without cutting it open. Once that is done, there is no turning back obviously.

So, to remove the CV joint, first part that is holding the ball bearings have to be cut open and the bearings should be removed one by one. Once that is done, the outer cup can be removed. Thereafter you have to carefully cut the part that is fixed to the axel without harming the axel. This is a very delicate job. One mistake, you have to replace the entire axel. This took some time to do. 

Finally all came out and the new part went in without any trouble.

Installed the left CV first and started the right one, surprise, surprise... that boot is not broken. It was some oil and dust which had given the looks of a broken boot. So we greased it and fixed it back. All in all this should have been a few hours job but extended up to 6 in the evening due to the issues stated above. 

The labour cost was Rs.5k.

Now everything is ok. I'm in two minds whether to return the spare CV joint or keep it with me for future use if needed. 

Have to get the alignment done now. Thats it.

So gents, I hope you'll learn from my mistakes if the need comes. Do share your thoughts.

Cheers!

 

CV.png

Edited by De_ja_vu
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6 hours ago, De_ja_vu said:

 

CV Joint replacement

 

I called UniMO and yes it is still correct, they dont have the "CV joint only" they only do the front axle replacement which cost 187K for once side. so for both sides it should be close to 400K with service charges. Well well well! at that point i though no way im going to pay my honest money to these buggers no matter what and decided to go for ordering the part from FEBEST (part number 0410-CY2) special thanks to @Hyaenidaefor the link and part number. But guess what!, you are correct trinity these things don't work out easily in car business, that's not how it happens lol.

So FEBEST guys got my VIN and said the mentioned part did not match my vehicle :( . Now i had no where else to go. I had already contacted almost all the part shops in Sri Lanka and non the part matching my car. Then i was looking for a reconditioned part and  reconditioned parts almost don't exist for this vehicle.

Now with my car in garage for two days i was getting tensed and started  measuring the dimensions of the removed CV joint and just like that It was exactly matching the description provided by FEBEST. So at this point i had to take a chance either to wait for WIMAL motors to get the part and do it myself. I took a chance, went with my instincts and ordered the part, they shipped via DHL express.

2 x CV joint with boot/greese/rings : LKR 16000

DHL Charges: LKR 14000

Taxes :D : LKR 22000 (with extra DHL charges for documentation)

I got the part within 9 days of order placement and this mostly depend on the time taken for custom clearance in Sri Lanka.

I was so nervous(couldn't sleep lol) until the part reached here and i wanted it to match dearly. My chance paid off and it was a exact match (sigh!!!!). I replaced both my joints, altogether it cost me around LKR 60000 for the whole job.

 

Whoo! what a ride!

I was like 🤯 when I read the part where they couldn't match your VIN to their replacement part, and then when you decided to take a leap of faith I was like 😰, and when the part matched I was like 😁 

If it wasn't for the exorbitant tax I'd say the amount you paid is reasonable for a brand new pair of CV joints. Bet it would cost the same, if not more, if you replaced a pair of CV joints of a Toyota with brand new parts.

But look at the bright side. You might replace the car someday down the line, but this experience would be a fond memory for you to cherish forever. 

Thank you for sharing your tale for the benefit of all the present and future lancer enthusiasts to come, @De_ja_vu!

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18 hours ago, De_ja_vu said:

2 x CV joint with boot/greese/rings : LKR 16000

DHL Charges: LKR 14000

Taxes :D : LKR 22000 (with extra DHL charges for documentation)

 

So I have brought plenty of parts myself and ship out parts to my friends in SL....a small tip for you to consider...do not use DHL (and even some of the other large couriers like UPS...bu especially DHL). They just "go through the process" and charge and pay taxes on items rather blindly. Sometimes they charge you axes greater than the value of the product as they randomly pick out a price for an item if they don't have the invoice or they determine that the invoice is not accurate.

I have used EMS (out of Japan) the last few years and has been quite okay. True...you do have to take time to go to the central post office to clear it but if you are not a hot headed #$$ they only charge small amounts of duty (especially if the value is not declared and there are no invoices inside). We are talking like take a few hours off to just pay duty of like 1000Rs for items tat cost about 35,000

But...nice write up. Now...typically the AL forum community's stance is that you have done all these repairs of CV joints and stuff on an imaginary car if we do not see pictures of the car in question :D So feel free to start your own thread/blog with pictures..

 

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On 7/31/2021 at 7:18 PM, De_ja_vu said:

 

CV Joint replacement

 

Hello Gents!

Here's my story short. I've been a Toyota car owner for 5 years and decided to give a chance to car enthusiastic inside me to go for a Lance ex. So i've done it (special thanks for wife's approval :) ) and now I'm a proud owner of 2014 Lance Ex . I've bought the car 2 months back with 121K mileage on it. It was with 2nd owner and most of the running repairs were completed. So far its been a pleasant experience with the car for me. However i am missing the low maintenance cost on my Toyota given that i'm tight on budget after insurance payment and all. 

 

Going  back to the thread, Kudos to everyone who started this and your information helped a lot for me. So it felt like my duty to add back my experience here so one day it will be useful for someone :)

 

One month after i bought the car, heard some *tuku tuku noise on hard slow cornering. Initially thought it was from front shocks but as per one of relation who owns are garage told me it was definitely the CV. I had him inspected the joint, previous owner has replaced the boots but not the joints. I wanted the change the as soon as possible since I'm driving long distance often & sometimes in windy roads.

He (my relation) told me that there would be spares to be easily found ,but without knowing the inner no of teeth's/groves its hard to find the exact part. So i found this thread and found that @trinity has mentioned the exact outer and inner groves of the CV. But as per what i read his was CY2 where as mine was CY1 and the Mitsubishi part numbers were different for the two models

CY2: 3815A169/3815A170

CY1: 3815A454/3815A459

So i had no choice other than cutting open the cv to check the inner groves, for my luck/unluck its the same grove number as CY2, so i called WIMAL MOTORS MORATUWA where Trinity got his and guess what!, they dont have the part in stock. They checked with their supplier  & informed me they would get the part within two weeks and it will cost more than 20K for once piece.

I called UniMO and yes it is still correct, they dont have the "CV joint only" they only do the front axle replacement which cost 187K for once side. so for both sides it should be close to 400K with service charges. Well well well! at that point i though no way im going to pay my honest money to these buggers no matter what and decided to go for ordering the part from FEBEST (part number 0410-CY2) special thanks to @Hyaenidaefor the link and part number. But guess what!, you are correct trinity these things don't work out easily in car business, that's not how it happens lol.

So FEBEST guys got my VIN and said the mentioned part did not match my vehicle :( . Now i had no where else to go. I had already contacted almost all the part shops in Sri Lanka and non the part matching my car. Then i was looking for a reconditioned part and  reconditioned parts almost don't exist for this vehicle.

Now with my car in garage for two days i was getting tensed and started  measuring the dimensions of the removed CV joint and just like that It was exactly matching the description provided by FEBEST. So at this point i had to take a chance either to wait for WIMAL motors to get the part and do it myself. I took a chance, went with my instincts and ordered the part, they shipped via DHL express.

2 x CV joint with boot/greese/rings : LKR 16000

DHL Charges: LKR 14000

Taxes :D : LKR 22000 (with extra DHL charges for documentation)

I got the part within 9 days of order placement and this mostly depend on the time taken for custom clearance in Sri Lanka.

I was so nervous(couldn't sleep lol) until the part reached here and i wanted it to match dearly. My chance paid off and it was a exact match (sigh!!!!). I replaced both my joints, altogether it cost me around LKR 60000 for the whole job.

 

Summary

CV joint for CY1 & CY2 are same (Inner teeth = 30 / Outer teeth = 28/ Diameter = 59.5 mm)

 

So that's my tale! hope someone find this information usefull!

Oh! and almost forgot. Original CV joint had 8 balls and the new ones only had 6 balls. That was one of the reason i decided to change both joints.

Noticed from the photos that there were only 6 balls in @trinity's new CVs as well, given that you have changed only once side, have you noticed any difference or issue with running on 6 ball CV?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CV.png

Wow, what a thrill ride of a story you've shared @De_ja_vu. Reading this gave me 100 times more thrills than watching F9. I'm glad the information you found in this thread helped you to solve out the issue and thought you few lessons on maintaining a car you hold dear to your heart. This was the intention I had when creating this thread. 

As Hyundai 😜 rightfully said, you will surely cherish this experience for a long time and I'm sure you now feel more appreciative of the car and proud about the bold decision taken to import the part.

With regard to the the question you've asked about the difference count of the bearing balls, I've noticed that only after you've pointed that here. And can confirm that this has not made any difference in driving dynamics of the car.

As @iRage requested, it is customary to share the photos of the car and if available photos taken during the repair. So don't keep us waiting to see the gal behind the story 🙂.

Finally, thank you for sharing your experience, which I'm sure will help many more EX owners in years to come.

Cheers!!!

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On 8/1/2021 at 2:18 AM, Hyaenidae said:

 

Whoo! what a ride!

I was like 🤯 when I read the part where they couldn't match your VIN to their replacement part, and then when you decided to take a leap of faith I was like 😰, and when the part matched I was like 😁 

If it wasn't for the exorbitant tax I'd say the amount you paid is reasonable for a brand new pair of CV joints. Bet it would cost the same, if not more, if you replaced a pair of CV joints of a Toyota with brand new parts.

But look at the bright side. You might replace the car someday down the line, but this experience would be a fond memory for you to cherish forever. 

Thank you for sharing your tale for the benefit of all the present and future lancer enthusiasts to come, @De_ja_vu!

Thanks! @Hyaenidae

Yes, it was thriller of a experience for me. Definitely would be a good tale to brag about during a guys night out :)

On Toyotas, as per what i heard,  pair of 3rd party CV joints would cost around 10-15K few years back. I'm not sure how it is now given all the inflation going around. 

 

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On 8/1/2021 at 1:51 PM, iRage said:

So I have brought plenty of parts myself and ship out parts to my friends in SL....a small tip for you to consider...do not use DHL (and even some of the other large couriers like UPS...bu especially DHL). They just "go through the process" and charge and pay taxes on items rather blindly. Sometimes they charge you axes greater than the value of the product as they randomly pick out a price for an item if they don't have the invoice or they determine that the invoice is not accurate.

I have used EMS (out of Japan) the last few years and has been quite okay. True...you do have to take time to go to the central post office to clear it but if you are not a hot headed #$$ they only charge small amounts of duty (especially if the value is not declared and there are no invoices inside). We are talking like take a few hours off to just pay duty of like 1000Rs for items tat cost about 35,000

But...nice write up. Now...typically the AL forum community's stance is that you have done all these repairs of CV joints and stuff on an imaginary car if we do not see pictures of the car in question :D So feel free to start your own thread/blog with pictures..

 

Thanks @iRagefor your tip.

Actually this was my first experience ordering spare part from out side the country. Seller had only DHL carrier for express shipping so i went with it anyway. In my case, they(DHL) had produced the original invoice and my credit card statement to custom, so i guess the duty amount is quite accurate only the rate is much more than what i initially thought. So when you ship with EMS, do they retain the package at customs and inform the receiver to pay up the duty? or do you have to pay the currier at delivery? I will definitely try out this option if i am to order anything in future. 

Okay noted guys :D i will add some pictures on my page and link it on the thread. Feel free to add your comments!

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On 8/3/2021 at 9:24 AM, trinity said:

Wow, what a thrill ride of a story you've shared @De_ja_vu. Reading this gave me 100 times more thrills than watching F9. I'm glad the information you found in this thread helped you to solve out the issue and thought you few lessons on maintaining a car you hold dear to your heart. This was the intention I had when creating this thread. 

As Hyundai 😜 rightfully said, you will surely cherish this experience for a long time and I'm sure you now feel more appreciative of the car and proud about the bold decision taken to import the part.

With regard to the the question you've asked about the difference count of the bearing balls, I've noticed that only after you've pointed that here. And can confirm that this has not made any difference in driving dynamics of the car.

As @iRage requested, it is customary to share the photos of the car and if available photos taken during the repair. So don't keep us waiting to see the gal behind the story 🙂.

Finally, thank you for sharing your experience, which I'm sure will help many more EX owners in years to come.

Cheers!!!

Still to watch F9 & I'm bored already 😄

On the number of bearing balls, I haven't experience any difference in my short driving time after the repair. Will update here if i get anything.

Adding few pictures of the repair

Old CV joint.jpeg

New CV Joint.jpeg

New CV joint after fixing to axle.jpeg

New CV Joint bearings.jpeg

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Here's some captures of Mylady 😁

Tried adding on my profile and link it here since i didn't want to spoil the thread but could find such a option.

Car was almost in stock condition when i bought. Since then i've add below mods

1) Spoiler (Fiber) - 14K with paint from Sampath Stickers ( had to redo the paint job with another 3K). Original plastic spoiler would cost around 85K.

2) Paint alloy wheels with gloss black and calipers with red - *6K for paint job (local shop). Before this 16'' stock alloy wheel were silver color. I'd love to go disc brake on rear wheels but as any once done that on a Ex? and how costly would it be

 

Car3.jpeg.jpg

Car2.jpeg

 

Edited by De_ja_vu
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3 hours ago, De_ja_vu said:

Here's some captures of Mylady 😁

Tried adding on my profile and link it here since i didn't want to spoil the thread but could find such a option.

Car was almost in stock condition when i bought. Since then i've add below mods

1) Spoiler (Fiber) - 14K with paint from Sampath Stickers ( had to redo the paint job with another 3K). Original plastic spoiler would cost around 85K.

2) Paint alloy wheels with gloss black and calipers with red - 3K for paint job (local shop). Before this 16'' stock alloy wheel were silver color. I'd love to go disc brake on rear wheels but as any once done that on a Ex? and how costly would it be

 

Car3.jpeg.jpg

Car2.jpeg

Car1.jpeg

She is a beauty. Black on Black interior rite? Being a newer model than mine, car has the wheels of newer design. From where did you find the spoiler? I too am looking for a one. Not this variant though. I need the one that came to the Lancer specifically (Not the Evo version). Please share the contact details if they have more spoilers.

Treat the car well, she will not disappoint you. Mine is a daily runner and now clocked almost 175k, still she is like the day I bought her three years ago. 

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Small heads up on few coming maintenance work,

  1. The Auto Gear oil change is due now. I've shared the details about the previous instance in this thread before. Will update the details of prices to get a comparison.
  2. Engine tune-up - will share the details if something new comes up. 
  3. Need to replace the horn. I think one is busted. Now the horn sounds like a horn of a scooter. Thinking of putting a set of BOSCH Europa horn. Yes, yes, too loud and not suitable for a sedan, but I'm fed up with these lane hogging morons who wont give way. Need the big guns to chase them off. f**k em!!!

Two repairs are also due.

  1. Looks like AC cooler is busted. Noticing a hissing sound from inside the dashboard and gradual reduction of cooling.
  2. Need to replace the rear brake cylinders as the repair kit has had its time.
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57 minutes ago, trinity said:
  1. Looks like AC cooler is busted. Noticing a hissing sound from inside the dashboard and gradual reduction of cooling.

Didn't you get your OEM cooler replaced once back in 2019? I mean Tzars gazettes last longer than your AC coolers. What the hekk are they made out of, Swiss Dodol?

 

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43 minutes ago, Hyaenidae said:

Didn't you get your OEM cooler replaced once back in 2019? I mean Tzars gazettes last longer than your AC coolers. What the hekk are they made out of, Swiss Dodol?

 

Yes man.. the replacement was an aftermarket one which obviously is less durable. All the more reason why I wanted to go for an original at that time. unfortunately I couldn't get a one. Those guys said that these coolers will last about two years at the time of installing. This was confirmed by the Agent as well. Apparently since the Genuine one is too damn expensive now, most go with these aftermarket parts. 

The cooler has lasted about 45,000kms. Anyways, I do have a bitter history with coolers as you pointed out. Lets see how this will turn out.

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7 hours ago, trinity said:

She is a beauty. Black on Black interior rite? Being a newer model than mine, car has the wheels of newer design. From where did you find the spoiler? I too am looking for a one. Not this variant though. I need the one that came to the Lancer specifically (Not the Evo version). Please share the contact details if they have more spoilers.

Treat the car well, she will not disappoint you. Mine is a daily runner and now clocked almost 175k, still she is like the day I bought her three years ago. 

Yes, its black on black. But missing out the arm rest😟

I guess you are refering to the spoiler in GT version? Yes they had a GT spoiler In stock when i was buying this. You can call below, what they quoted me was around 14K. If you are to buy i suggest to paint job from a recommended paint shop since my paint job was clumpsy

Sampath Stickers & Car Audio
077 239 0700
https://maps.app.goo.gl/fY2UAT6C7JNExWBz8

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11 hours ago, De_ja_vu said:

Yes, its black on black. But missing out the arm rest😟

I guess you are refering to the spoiler in GT version? Yes they had a GT spoiler In stock when i was buying this. You can call below, what they quoted me was around 14K. If you are to buy i suggest to paint job from a recommended paint shop since my paint job was clumpsy

Sampath Stickers & Car Audio
077 239 0700
https://maps.app.goo.gl/fY2UAT6C7JNExWBz8

Oh that's a bummer.. 

Thanks for sharing the shop details. Will call them and see. Only issue is that its too far away from where I live.

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On 8/8/2021 at 12:39 AM, Hyaenidae said:

Surely sourcing an armrest is easier than a GT wing? I mean, priorities, man. 🤪

NorllFa.jpg

Of course mate! But we all love that looks over comfort don't we 😂 

Anyway i was looking for OEM center console rather than going for 3rd party one. Any recommended place to look for? Something like in the picture will be ideal👌

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3 hours ago, De_ja_vu said:

Of course mate! But we all love that looks over comfort don't we 😂 

Anyway i was looking for OEM center console rather than going for 3rd party one. Any recommended place to look for? Something like in the picture will be ideal👌

It's the OEM one... Get an evo one if you're buying from ebay, apparently it can be extended, normal versions cant do that

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254990323642

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Guys I'm nearing my 2nd engine oil change in 500KMs.

Few days back i noticed reduced engine oil levels compared to my previous car(Toyota), of course it was still within the lower and higher marks in the rod.
I'm using 10W-30 (Valvoline) from UniMo continuing same as the previous owner. 
During the last service i used the loose oil instead of the sealed can since previous owner had done the same way also when i asked UniMo tech guys assured me its the same oil with same quality but only one is priced higher due to extra packing.
I don't observe any oil leaks or any unusual smoke coming out of exhaust. And my drive patterns does not include major traffic congestions. Just 100+KM  trips twice a week and then 10Km drive once a day.
If the lower mark is 0% and higher mark is 100%, my levels are currently at 15%. Most articles say there will be some engine burn but could not find anything related to a lancer.

Do you think its normal for a car with 125k mileage to burn out 85%(within makers) of oil? and how's your ladies behaving?

Also what do you think about using the unpacked engine oil?

Thanks

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12 minutes ago, De_ja_vu said:

Guys I'm nearing my 2nd engine oil change in 500KMs.

Few days back i noticed reduced engine oil levels compared to my previous car(Toyota), of course it was still within the lower and higher marks in the rod.
I'm using 10W-30 (Valvoline) from UniMo continuing same as the previous owner. 
During the last service i used the loose oil instead of the sealed can since previous owner had done the same way also when i asked UniMo tech guys assured me its the same oil with same quality but only one is priced higher due to extra packing.
I don't observe any oil leaks or any unusual smoke coming out of exhaust. And my drive patterns does not include major traffic congestions. Just 100+KM  trips twice a week and then 10Km drive once a day.
If the lower mark is 0% and higher mark is 100%, my levels are currently at 15%. Most articles say there will be some engine burn but could not find anything related to a lancer.

Do you think its normal for a car with 125k mileage to burn out 85%(within makers) of oil? and how's your ladies behaving?

Also what do you think about using the unpacked engine oil?

Thanks

Okay, my mileage is less than half yours and the engine is different (4A92), but mine burns 0% oil. I too use the 10W-30 Valvoline premium conventional since the first oil change, I've never used loose oils though, always the sealed can. How does your latest emissions test result look like?

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19 hours ago, De_ja_vu said:

Guys I'm nearing my 2nd engine oil change in 500KMs.

Few days back i noticed reduced engine oil levels compared to my previous car(Toyota), of course it was still within the lower and higher marks in the rod.
I'm using 10W-30 (Valvoline) from UniMo continuing same as the previous owner. 
During the last service i used the loose oil instead of the sealed can since previous owner had done the same way also when i asked UniMo tech guys assured me its the same oil with same quality but only one is priced higher due to extra packing.
I don't observe any oil leaks or any unusual smoke coming out of exhaust. And my drive patterns does not include major traffic congestions. Just 100+KM  trips twice a week and then 10Km drive once a day.
If the lower mark is 0% and higher mark is 100%, my levels are currently at 15%. Most articles say there will be some engine burn but could not find anything related to a lancer.

Do you think its normal for a car with 125k mileage to burn out 85%(within makers) of oil? and how's your ladies behaving?

Also what do you think about using the unpacked engine oil?

Thanks

Mine at 174,000kms now and not burning oil at all. Using  Valvoline 10W30 plus Mitsubishi genuine oil filter (As the change is done at Unit#d Mot#rs). I too have opted for the can instead of loose oil. 

Burning 85% of oil is a serious issue. My previous lancer even at 225,000kms didnt burn oil.

Are you sure that there are no leaks? 

My advice to you is to get this checked ASAP through a proper mechanic. Drop me a PM about where you are located. If you live nearby to my mechanics place, I'll share the details with you and get an appointment with him. I'm going there this weekend to get my ATF changed and engine tuned. If possible you can bring the car during that time.

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10 hours ago, trinity said:

oil is a serious issue. 

Wow sound very concerning 😬.

Thanks for your input guys, will surely check this up before it get any worse.

Since they used the loose oil, I'm having a doubt whether they didn't fill it all the way up. After your comments i checked the level again, it around 50%, maybe i was not on flat base last time.

image.png.3b3889b790984f28ea87195cc97dd16f.png

 

Edited by De_ja_vu
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