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Illegal mods in Sri Lanka?


Jason Diaz
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1 hour ago, iRage said:

Forget about Mark 2s....they are out of your budget..unless you can find a beater from the 80s...the Mark 2 platform acually will be alot easier (thus makes it chaeper) for you to get drift ready than something like a KE72 (also, a KE72 will slip he back out but that engine simply has no power to hold a slide...if you go for a KE72 you will have to upgrade the engine or at the very least go for a KE74.

Box Lancers and the model before that or even old Galants B211, B310s are an option. Now...what exactly do you want to do with the car ? Just drift ? You won't be using it as a daily ? ALl of these cars if you spend enough money on it it can be made it to a fairly decent daily. If it is just a matter of earningto drift...jut get some beater...who cares...even something like a KE30/KE50 would work...weld the diffs if you have to (granted the diff will not last that long if you drive around on daily basis). Do not worry about the solid rear axle...even old AE86s, Crowns, MarkII/Chaser/etc...have solid axles and people drift with them. It is just another skill you learn to negotiate. 

yeah.. Mark 2s and Chasers were never in my list anyway. so that's fine. B211 is RWD? I always though that's FWD.. that's why I never though about it. I think I can find one for under 0.5-0.6 mil. if I can get it drift ready. let's see.. now I have a few cars in my list.

 

well.. I might be sacrificing a daily driver for a drift car... but who cares. :) If I'll spend some.. I might even be able to get it street usable at least at some level. 

I know how solid rear axle and indipendent rear axels work but had no idea how it affects in drifting. but I'm gonna do a guess.... it has to be the traction right? I think solid rear axle generates less traction. really don't know much. 

 

this is offtopic but just in case.... if I'll forget about this drifting dream and go with a FWD... what do you think is the best option under my budget. I'm still looking for a JDM tho.

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10 hours ago, Maneth Pirisyala said:

B211 is RWD

Upto the B11 Sunnys were RWD.This means B110, B210-211, B310 were all RWD.  The first corolla that were FWD was the E80 series. The Carina AA60 was RWD tho. B211s arw nice little cars but almost impossible to find a non molested car. Most are hacked beyond recognition now by the wannabe "muscle car" folk. 

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3 hours ago, matroska said:

Upto the B11 Sunnys were RWD.This means B110, B210-211, B310 were all RWD.  The first corolla that were FWD was the E80 series. The Carina AA60 was RWD tho. B211s arw nice little cars but almost impossible to find a non molested car. Most are hacked beyond recognition now by the wannabe "muscle car" folk. 

That's something I didn't know. Thank you.

 

I think I've heard about someone who restores B211s into their brand new conditions for 0.75 mil. But I've seen those things go for under half a mil. do you think that's a good price? I think you might've heard of him too. from a youtube video. 

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On 9/18/2021 at 12:43 AM, Maneth Pirisyala said:

I know how solid rear axle and indipendent rear axels work but had no idea how it affects in drifting. but I'm gonna do a guess...

Since both rear sides are connected...any action on one side affects the other side (i.e. not independant). So if one side has a bump pushing-up the "wheel"  the otherside will have an an opposite reaction where the "wheel" wants to "drop down". Now mind you this is just a rudimentary and crude example (over simplified too...depending on the scenario this can either help you maintain traction or it can cause you to lose it all together). This is niether an end of the world setup nor is IRS (Ind. Rear. Sus) the next best thing to sliced bread. For front weight biased cars the solid axle can actually help balance out the car.  Your suspension (depending on how well its setup) will help mitigate this, thus...how bad or good either suspension system works will depend on what you do with the suspension (for your traction scenario..

 

On 9/18/2021 at 11:41 AM, matroska said:

nice little cars but almost impossible to find a non molested car

If you are looking to build a drift car for practice...this really does not matter as long as themechanicals are sound and the major body parts are there. Just rip off the plastic buckets and neon lights and hammer out the dents and stuff (why bother fixing it when you are going ot be hitting guard rails and such ? besides..almost all battle hard drifters look like crap)

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2 hours ago, iRage said:

and the major body parts are there. Just rip off the plastic buckets and neon lights and hammer out the dents

Yeah - for a drift car that would suffice. B211's are usually in horrid condition - it's not just the plasticky mods - most of these cars have chassis that are skewed, body's made up of 50% catalloy.. when we sold the B110 I missed it so bad that for a few weeks I hunted for a few B210/11's : barring a few minters (they were actually B210's) the B211's were in horrible state both body-wise and even mechanically. maybe OP will be better off with a Datsun wagon? less likely to be patched up and those are dirt cheap... just remembered the VB110 resto an autolankan was doing. OP can buy the car for next to nothing and spend his budget on all the mods - heck if he's really into it might even swap an RWD SR20 now that would be something! 

Image for inspiration 😉 

image.jpeg.83e149f0863852679333fd66b6a0a8bc.jpeg

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On 9/18/2021 at 11:28 AM, Maneth Pirisyala said:

I think I've heard about someone who restores B211s into their brand new conditions for 0.75 mil. But I've seen those things go for under half a mil. do you think that's a good price? I think you might've heard of him too. from a youtube video. 

I saw this video : The senior citizen from Kurunegala or somewhere right? He claims to restore B211's to factory spec and say that they can be used as daily runners. But since you have mods in mind getting a restored car and tearing it down would be pointless wouldn't it? 

Also I remember you asked something about Lancer Box prices but i can't find the exact post to quote here : anyway Lancer boxes  prices are decided on the number, grade and a lot of factors. The early 1979 ish ones with 10sri/11 sri numbers with the smaller 1200 engine go for a lot cheaper. The 1.4 engine is sought after and so are the ones with 5FW gears as opposed to the ones with 4FWD. Cars with the 'red beading' and the tachometer(RPM) will cost even more. Minters will go for a tad above 1Mil. If you can find a 1.4 L car with maybe a bit of work to do that might be a good choice. When it comes to getting rid of it at some point it will be easier to part with it as there's apparently a lot of demand for the model. 

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1 hour ago, matroska said:

maybe OP will be better off with a Datsun wagon?

Well...what we have in SL are vans...and even if a wagon from the 70s and 80s are to be found they still would prettymuch have the suspension of a van. The issue with vans is the rear suspension and rear weight...the weight can be sorted out easily with some sand bags (would need with a light sedan too)...but the leaf springs are going to need to sorting out to make it not as air bound that easily.

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7 hours ago, iRage said:

Well...what we have in SL are vans...and even if a wagon from the 70s and 80s are to be found they still would prettymuch have the suspension of a van. The issue with vans is the rear suspension and rear weight...the weight can be sorted out easily with some sand bags (would need with a light sedan too)...but the leaf springs are going to need to sorting out to make it not as air bound that easily.

True - either way he'd need to do a lot of mods if he takes the wagon route. He'd probably need to sort out a lot of things with any car of that vintage actually. Those traps -at least the ones up for sale are barely roadworthy.

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3 hours ago, matroska said:

Those traps -at least the ones up for sale are barely roadworthy

1. ROLL CAGE ! The panels can be beaten out metal sheets for all it matters. He would need a roll cage...something to absorb the impact.

2. ROLL CAGE

..well atleast some kind of strucural support to absorb impacts...

Edited by iRage
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23 hours ago, iRage said:

Since both rear sides are connected...any action on one side affects the other side (i.e. not independant). So if one side has a bump pushing-up the "wheel"  the otherside will have an an opposite reaction where the "wheel"...

Thank a lot. Really wanted to learn that. 

 

23 hours ago, iRage said:

If you are looking to build a drift car for practice...this really does not matter as long as themechanicals are sound and the major body parts are there. Just rip off the plastic buckets and neon lights and hammer out the dents and stuff (why bother fixing it when you are going ot be hitting guard rails and such ? besides..almost all battle hard drifters look like crap)

 

I mean.. yeah exactly. that's exatly what I need. I will be tearing it apart anyway. Just want something I can go hard on.

 

20 hours ago, matroska said:

Yeah - for a drift car that would suffice. B211's are usually in horrid condition - it's not just the plasticky mods - most of these cars have chassis that are skewed, body's made up of 50% catalloy.. when we sold the B110 I missed it so bad that for a few weeks I hunted for a few B210/11's : barring a few minters (they were actually B210's) the B211's were in horrible state both body-wise and even mechanically. maybe OP will be better off with a Datsun wagon? less likely to be patched up and those are dirt cheap... just remembered the VB110 resto an autolankan was doing. OP can buy the car for next to nothing and spend his budget on all the mods - heck if he's really into it might even swap an RWD SR20 now that would be something! 

Image for inspiration 😉 

image.jpeg.83e149f0863852679333fd66b6a0a8bc.jpeg

 

Inspiration worked sir :) That sure will be an interesting build, talking about SR20 swapping... I'm just asking.. is making a civic RWD worth it? I have no plans to do it in the near future but I was just wondering cause.. I have a thing for civics :) But the fact that they are FWD is avoiding me from buying one.

 

20 hours ago, matroska said:

I saw this video : The senior citizen from Kurunegala or somewhere right? He claims to restore B211's to factory spec and say that they can be used as daily runners. But since you have mods in mind getting a restored car and tearing it down would be pointless wouldn't it?  

 

Yeah I think you are right. I was just think about the condition of the performance but since I'm gonna have to rebuild it from scratch anyway... that won't be a very good idea.

20 hours ago, matroska said:

Also I remember you asked something about Lancer Box prices but i can't find the exact post to quote here : anyway Lancer boxes  prices are decided on the number, grade and a lot of factors. The early 1979 ish ones with 10sri/11 sri numbers with the smaller 1200 engine go for a lot cheaper. The 1.4 engine is sought after and so are the ones with 5FW gears as opposed to the ones with 4FWD. Cars with the 'red beading' and the tachometer(RPM) will cost even more. Minters will go for a tad above 1Mil. If you can find a 1.4 L car with maybe a bit of work to do that might be a good choice. When it comes to getting rid of it at some point it will be easier to part with it as there's apparently a lot of demand for the model. 

 

I see, Looks like by far Lancer box is the best choice. and I'll have smth left to do the mods. I imagine that's not gonna be cheap either. I will take a look at lancers for sure. 

 

19 hours ago, iRage said:

Well...what we have in SL are vans...and even if a wagon from the 70s and 80s are to be found they still would prettymuch have the suspension of a van. The issue with vans is the rear suspension and rear weight...the weight can be sorted out easily with some sand bags (would need with a light sedan too)...but the leaf springs are going to need to sorting out to make it not as air bound that easily.

 

How much do they usually go for? If I'll be able to save some to do the mods, this might not be a bad idea.

 

10 hours ago, iRage said:

1. ROLL CAGE ! The panels can be beaten out metal sheets for all it matters. He would need a roll cage...something to absorb the impact.

2. ROLL CAGE

..well atleast some kind of strucural support to absorb impacts...

 

Yeah definitely. Cause I'm imagining having a lot of impacts after all :) That's why I'm going for the cheapest choice anyway. 

If I'm not doing an Engine swap, how much do you think it'll cost for the rest of the mods? 

 

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1 hour ago, Maneth Pirisyala said:

is making a civic RWD worth it?

No...You will need to find a whole lot of parts and engineer it to fit the Civic structure OR..engineer the Civic body panels to be mountd on a RWD platform. Either way it requires a whole lot of fabrication (which I am certain 99.9% of garages will not do properly in SL). This will cost quite a lot.

 

1 hour ago, Maneth Pirisyala said:

how much do you think it'll cost for the rest of the mods? 

Sky's the limit...just a rough estimate for parts would be something between 600K- 1mil for suspension, brakes, exhaust, intake and cooling at the very least with a mix of used and new parts. Painting and tinkering all depends on what the condition of the car is

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