charitha19

naa... u know how DBN is pradfred.. anyway was a lillte tied up. Here a questiona.. do u guys know the gear ratios for the BG..

sure machang, asiri motors is located on the left side just after u pass the traffic light passing elphinisiten going towards kotahena. and rainbow motors is also on the left side at the end of the road before the roundabout. asiri motors number is 0115849739 rainbow motors 0114718967 0112459227 0112421844

sure machang, asiri motors is located on the left side just after u pass the traffic light passing elphinisiten going towards kotahena. and rainbow motors is also on the left side at the end of the road before the roundabout. asiri motors number is 0115849739 rainbow motors 0114718967 0112459227 0112421844

i think madmax touched on my point of doing in proffesioanlly.. u have to graph ur curve to determine the power curve.. but for launching as gihanFX said u have to have a good clutch and usaally hold it around 6000RPM and launch and quick shift to second.. but without knowing the car is really hard to give an exact answer to this... and adding to madmaz's theory. Optimal shift points http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/whentoshift.htm Looking to get maximum effect out of your car when accelerating? Try optimizing the RPM's you shift your car at. If you're shifting at redline, you're probably not getting the best acceleration out of your car - in fact, the optimum shift RPM will probably be different for each gear. You can calculate the optimum shift points, but it takes two pieces of information : Gear ratios of all your gears, and a chart of your torque curve. If you don't understand torque curves, you may want to take a look at the horsepower article in my Technical Department before reading any farther. The trick here is to keep your engine in the meaty part of the torque curve, as your acceleration curve will match your torque curve - meaning if your torque peak is at 3000rpm, that's the RPM your car accelerates the hardest. How do you keep the engine in the best part of the curve? Shift when you will be at an RPM where the car will make more torque AFTER you shift than in your current gear. This may sound confusing, but I will give some examples to help demonstrate this. Gear ratio is important because you need to know what your RPM's will drop to once you shift. EXAMPLE : If you're at 6500rpm in first, you need the gear ratio to know what RPM that will translates to once you shift to 2nd. Below is a torque curve for a fictitious engine : Engine Torque Gear ratio Now with your gear ratio in hand, figure out how many RPM's will drop going from 1st to 2nd. In this case, it'll drop by 1/3 (2:1 divided by 3:1). So shifting from 1st to 2nd at 6000rpm, it will drop to 4000rpm. This means you're going from 330ft/lbs (see chart - 6000rpm in 1st) to 220ft/lbs (6000rpm * .6666) = 4000rpm in 2nd). Not what you want - you want these numbers to be the same. How about 6400? 285 vs 240 - much better, but let's try 6800 : 210 vs about 250. Oops, too far. In this case, optimum shift point is between 6400 and 6800rpm for the 1-2 shift. It works the same for each consecutive gear, as the shift RPM may be different for each gear. Below are graphs representing how it looks on "paper". 3:1 2:1 1.3:1 3600 100 300 200 130 4000 110 330 220 143 4400 120 360 240 156 4800 125 375 250 163 5200 125 375 250 163 5600 120 360 240 156 6000 110 330 220 143 6400 95 285 190 124 6800 70 210 140 91 Gear --> 1st 2nd 3rd Notice anything? The two torque outputs are almost the same (6600 in first and 4400 in second), which is what you're going for to achieve maximum acceleration. What does it look like on the horsepower side? Take a look at the chart below : Well what do you know! You bracket the HP peak. HP after the shift is the same as HP before the shift. Now we know shifting at the torque peak isn't the answer, and neither is shifting at the HP peak. The math required : next higher gear ratio / current gear ratio (i,e. second gear divided by first) = X X * shiftrpm = nextrpm, where shiftrpm is the point your shifting AT, and nextrpm will be the RPM of the next gear at the same speed. firstgeartorque = torque at shiftrpm times current gear ratio (example, at 6400rpm we have 95ft/lbs, multiply this by our gear ratio in 1st (3:1, or just 3) and you get about 245ft/lbs. secondgeartorque = torque at nextrpm times next gear ratio (in out example, we have 120ft/lbs @ 4400rpm, times 2:1 (second gear ratio), and you get 240ft/lbs. Change shiftrpm until firstgeartorque is equal (or close to) secondgeartorque.

have u tried asiri motors and rainbow motors.. i think they have for fords...

even mor mazda car mart is no good.. they dont have codes for models they didnt bring down.. especially JDM's but there are mazda ford garages.. one is in pepiliyana junction called mazna motors.. which deals with ford too.. he was a former carmart employee.. says he can do fords too...

well i dont think u need to get four.. why not get two and see.. because this is not something permanant,. and its doest need to get completly silenced..

well its locally made.. i think DJ shan's one is a proffesioanlly made one.. the problem is we have different tip sizes.. and its hard to get an off the shelf one.. and i dont think u can find.. to be fair to my filter.. its over three years old now.. it was quite shinny when i got it.. but it does the job pretty well...

if u down shift in red range.. u will blow it.. so dont try to do that unless u have a very tolerent engine.. as for optimum speed.. it depends on ur gear ratios,, and the wear and tear of ur gear box... its more of a feeler.. if u know ur car well then u can judge this and time ur RPM GAUGE to give u the light.. there is of course a proffesional way of doing this.. but dont know of a garage that can do it for you... but if u know ur car and gears well.. u will feel it.. again dont down shift in the red.. but i would say just before the red line stars might be a good place to up shift first.. but again u wil have to see.. normally in the first gear.. u wont get full power thorugh out ur range.. i am talking normal aspirated engine.. non turbo..... but after second u will hopefully get power thorugh out the range.. hope this helped...

done get decived by how it looks... as u can see it has holes which muffles the sound.. but not all...

not tokyo drift... cant drift with our FWD's u know... anyway.. i posted my one.. as u can see its very home made.. but it works... its not good for long rides... u can just use it when u need it.. u just need to push it into you exhaust... it wont trap the smoke.. it just muffles the sound...

sorry thats not a downside.. what i meant was they sometimes need to take ur exhaust off your vehicle..

well the guy that did is the guy near pamakada bridge.. its small filter that fits in the back for your muffler... but the downside is that they have to measire the area of your exhaust tip... yes it can be removed.. and put back easily... i will post some pics of it when i get home... i think it costs me around 2000 bucks at that time...

hi machang, i was just follwoing the thread.. this usually happens in the night, and on weekends.. its a usual thing for these no good low down SOB's to do that.. i have this filter which i got made from the guy at pamakanda bridge.. it fits into your tail and muffles the sound quite a bit.. its a good idea to fix this on friday nights and saturday nights... but it wont muffel the sound if u go over 4000 RPM.. but on low stuff it will.. i have a straight through HKS tail.. which i payed heavily to fix.. and as u said i aint gonna take it off to idiots.. and its tested below the DB level for australia and other countries.. especiall the US...

i totally agree.. we should all start cavassing for the club...really sorry to hear about the stopwatch.... we should have looked for it that day.. i didnt know... once we get the memberships goings i think we can get the fund going too.... and my personal view is .. mazda or non mazda i would have payed that amount for the track run.. unfortunatly i couldnt run the car that day.. and i feel since its in its infancy we should be able to put in money.... and thats justified...

yeah yeah.. i will keep that in mind....

i kinda agree here. i think we need to get more of the mazda's in.. i have seen a lot more 323's flying around.. becuase all other clubs have huge number of members.. and i think they might steal the show... but on the other hand its a chance to beat some hondas on safe grounds.. although i love to do it on normal roads.. its not safe...

thanks pradfred...

they have the G power platinum plugs for us.. its avalable in both asiri and rainbow motors.. the last i checked was 500 bucsks for one plug.. i am searching to go higher becasue of my new pistons.. its either iradium or racing plugs from NGK.. the plug number is BKR5E11 or BKR6E11 both fit the heat range...

well .. no worries on this.. i brough the kit for my BG around 8500.. takes two weeks to come to SL.. i am sure u can find one for the AZ3 but from the looks of it.e looks like mine... the problem is the dealer who sold it to me does not bring down anymore because no business.... dont know if motor cade has it... i did in on my own, using the manual guru G posted above.. but around two years back.. u can feel the differecne on high RPM's.. but nothing on low end.... its to be expected with our 1.5 engine.. but after 2500 or 3000 then u really can dust those idiots on the road.... but if u purchase the cone filters u need ti purchase the cleaning oil as well. as u cant clean them using air or water....

well .. no worries on this.. i brough the kit for my BG around 8500.. takes two weeks to come to SL.. i am sure u can find one for the AZ3 but from the looks of it.e looks like mine... the problem is the dealer who sold it to me does not bring down anymore because no business.... dont know if motor cade has it... i did in on my own, using the manual guru G posted above.. but around two years back.. u can feel the differecne on high RPM's.. but nothing on low end.... its to be expected with out 1.5 engine.. but after 2500 or 3000 then u really can dust those idiots on the road.... but if u purchase the cone filters u need ti purchase the cleaning oil as well. as u cant clean them using air or water....

well .. no worries on this.. i brough the kit for my BG around 8500.. takes two weeks to come to SL.. i am sure u can find one for the AZ3 but from the looks of it.e looks like mine... the problem is the dealer who sold it to me does not bring down anymore because no business.... dont know if motor cade has it... i did in on my own, using the manual guru G posted above.. but around two years back.. u can feel the differecne on high RPM's.. but nothing on low end.... its to be expected with our 1.5 engine.. but after 2500 or 3000 then u really can dust those idiots on the road.... but if u purchase the cone filters u need ti purchase the cleaning oil as well. as u cant clean them using air or water....

and guru.. if u do a good turbo conversation on an old engine.. u can get good mileage in normal conditions.. low boost econ running.. i know that for a fact... because ur engine doesnt have to work as hard with the help of the turbo... its kind sad when people say oh turbo ur car and u lose the mileage.. u do if u run high boost and drive like on track on the roads.. but i know with an old engine.. running around .5 boost.. a car that did around 7 did around 10... mine of course.. this is after my previous owner ran gas converted.. i felt like throttling him, i took it off....

well it depends on the dough too man...

add to that check this out another astina turbo.. it can be done http://www.fordlaser.com/viewtopic.php?p=651547