Mean Green z28

Is this a mechanical or electrical gauge? Have you checked all the electrical connections? Is there's a sending unit mounted on the engine, is it a one/two wire setup? Did you use too much thread sealer on the threads of the sensor that the sensor isn't getting its ground signal from the engine block? Couple of things to think about.

More infor on Clay bar ... http://www.autogeek.net/clbaandlu.html?gcl...CFQeQgQod_Wlv_A Here's a product that I used in the past ... http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcla.html ... I now use a different brand but it's essentially the same

Pretty easy, let's see what answers come up. As for me, I didn't know much when I bought my car ('94 Camaro) but now I know and have completely changed it to be what I want it to be ... a newer camaro ... maybe next time, I'll just buy a newer car and save some of the mod. money

hey, I went to the one over here in the DC area like 2 weeks ago ... awesome shyt! I hit a cone on my timed passes in the Cobalt SS so only managed a 409 point run

And the point is? Doesn't every manufacturer hand assemble their top of the line/performance cars for that personal attention that only a human can give? People can do the same thing that a robot does, maybe even better. Why the robots? They're faster sometimes and don't require you to pay them every month and pay for themselves in a couple years. BUT, if there's a problem, the robots will just keep going on their merry way but a trained human would and then rectify the problem. I feel bad everytime we build a machine that'll eliminate the human factor in quality control, but that's what my company does, and it sad knowing that a bunch of people are gonna lose their job no sooner we install the machine at their factory. Honestly, if I had a company and I was looking to make more profit, I would try to eliminate the constant cost like labor too. If the quality control is strict and if it gives more jobs to our people and the company can afford to pay their workers and not go after profit alone, I say its a win! I'm don't wanna come on as a dick here but I feel very strongly about what SL can achieve if given the oportunity. Ever since I was a kid, I dreamed of SL producing its own car (and dreamed that I was the one who did it .. ah ha) and that's a reality now (even in the smallest way). Maybe if the gov. would support the fact like other govs. have done by only using products manuafactured within the country for official use, there'll be a better future to look forward to. But ofcourse, everyone wants their BMW/Benz/Audi nowdays. Everytime we send more money out of the country because we don't like our own product that's identical, we're just losing.

What? Rizvi wrecked his car? Is this the new red Sti8 he just got? He was just telling me about it when I was in SL last month and had me all sorts of drooling! F!

So we're saying here that you'll don't trust that putting the vehicle together in SL is going to work? Aren't all these parts designed and manufactured by the same Kerean company? If so, I don't see any problem in plopping down you money on an example put together in SL. Ofcourse, it would all depend on if there is good quality control of the assembly process and the design/quality of the parts themselves. A bad design is a bad design nomatter where it was put together. I'm sure there's others out their who will back me up on this and I speak from experience because I work in the quality control industry and work with many OEM's (mostly GM and Ford supplyers) on the quality control on their parts. It all stems down to the design (I can't stress it more). For example: if two holes don't line up or a certain part isn't designed well enough to allow a bolt to hold its torque over a period of time when exposed to vibration, it's gonna fail if it was assembled in Korea or SL. I saw so many Chinese cars running around in SL that looked pretty good and I beleive were pretty affordable too but have you seen or read the statistics of their crash test ratings and quality control? They are the crappiest built most fake versions of good brand name cars and only look their part on the outside .. the frame/etc. doesn't have the same level of rigidity/detail that a larger manufacturer has deisgned into it. You would literally die in a collision that would otherwise have the driver walking away with a few bruises. 400K isn't much but why just give it away? Unless you'll have definite proof that a venture taken on by SL in such a large scale is being handled in a ways that will be detrimental to its own health (like taking an example from each country and doing a long term test to see how they hold up), I'll stand by my verdict. If I'm proven wrong, and I am shown that I infact am wrong 'cos the company let critical quality control issues slip through the cracks, I will gladly accept it and apologise for supporting my country.

Oh well, I'm bored enough at work so here you go ... ha ha ... pics are clickable for larger pics and more pics on the site. Here's when I first got the black wheels... here's when we painted the roof ... Here's when I got the new hood... here's when I got the new chrome wheels... And then when I got the hood and new front bumper painted... Here's when just got the wheels/tires for the Toyota truck (sold the truck a month later)... here's the new truck... I don't have pics of the new TV but type in Mitsubishi WS-55315 55" HDTV on Google and that's it ... although I got it used for a great deal

in my sig

A customer's C6 Corvette with a Z06 body kit and some engine upgrades. Now this car, I will sell my car to have! more at http://www.donovanfarrell.com

We're all worried about modifications and body kits and we rarely take the time to stand back ask ourselves if we're actually washing our cars right. Well, I started off with a nice shiny car a few years back and after a while realised that all that I was doing (thinking it was good) was actually hurting the finish and I had my car sitting there to prove it. I used to buy the cheapest car wash soap available and use a bath towel to wipe it off (yeah, I was one of you'll .. ha ha) but it made my car look like crap. So after much research and talking to professional detailers (and a minor repaint of some extrmemly ugly paint), I'm ready to actually "take care" of my car ... and I hope this info will be beneficial to you. First off, if your car is dry and has a layer of dust/dirt on it ... let it be till you wash it and do not try to wipe it off with a cloth, you'll ruin the paint by introducing fine scraches into it. Try looking at your pain it the sun, you'll see nice swirl marks ... don't you love it? RULE ONE ... try to keep water off your paint as long as possible ... remember that water has alkalines/lime/minerals and other stuff in it that would ruin the paint. If you're lucky, you probably already have water stains on your paint that piss the heck out of you in the sun. Washing/detailing your car starts long before you even turn on the water. Plan your path. Get a good car wash soap and a wash mitt (don't be cheap, you spent loads of money on your car, now take care of it). If you've planned to clean the engine bay, do it now and try to keep water to a minimum and away from the electricals. Use a spray bottle with some general cleaner solvent (a household cleaner will work but be careful to not get it on the paint), a "soft" bristled brush and then a light stream of water to only where you need it. Keeping the engine running while rinsing will help you (yeah, right?) keep away from the dangerous spots 'cos if you're spraying in the wrong place ... guess what, the engine's gonna let you know by stumbling/dying. Dry it off, shut the hood and move on. Next, we're gonna concentrate on wheels (you'll need a different wash mitt for the wheels only) but take the same care as you would on your wheels as you would on your paint (afterall, it's usually paint on the wheels too right?). You can scrub a little harder if it's chrome/metal, but be careful not to mess up the finish. Once again, the cleaner in a spray bottle and "soft" brush (make sure it's clean) is used here. Wash all the wheels ... and try to keep water off the paint! Now, you can go ahead and mix the desired amount of "car wash soap" in a bucket and get ready to wash your car. If you look at your car when it's dirty, you'll notice that the lower portion below the belt line is dirtier than the top, so we'll start up top 'cos that's the least dirty. We do this so that we use the wash mitt on the dirty area the last ... try to keep the mitt clean for as long as possible. Go around and spray your car down (from top to bottom) and get all the loose dirt off. Follow the instructions on rinsing from the soap bottle lable and go around your car once and wash only the upper portion. Then, the next round, go around the lower portion. Seems easy right? When you're finally finished washing, here's a tip to reduce on drying time ... take the nozzle off your hose and just run your water gently from the top of your car downwards without causing any splashes. The surface tension in the water will help it bead easily and take the water will just stream off your car ... you'll have a lot less water to wipe off. Drying, try not to use one of those water blades (it'll scratch your paint) and use a good soft cotton towel (microfibre is the best for your cars paint). Dont forget to wash your exhaust tips LAST, they're very dirty with carbon/oil and you don't want that on your paint. After you're done, make sure you've got all the water out of the cracks and doorjambs (use compressed air if possible, but a towel would do) Take it around the block once so you'll shake off all the excess water from the cracks/etc. and wipe down again. Now you're ready for the tiring part. If you can get a clay bar, use it now! Spray the lubricant and run the clay bar over the paint and feel the paint getting smoother each time you run over it 'cos it's taking all of the caked on dirt/grime .. now you have bare paint in a very clean condition. Now we need to finish it and cover it all up to protect it. Use a good swirl/haze remover product on the paint to get rid of all the swirl marks. Here's where you need to apply some good pressure 'cos this is the base you're woking with, everything else covers your work here. Wipe off the swirl/haze remover with a good microfibre towel. After that, it's ready for a polish. Use a good car polish product and go around and polish the finish of that paint ... you know what to do ... use a microfibre towel to wipe that off too (you can use the same towel from the previous step). Now we're ready to seal it up with a coat of wax. Go ahead and apply the wax as per the manufacturers recommendations and once again wipe off with a mifrofibre towel (fresh towel) ... step back and enjoy your days work! Wanna move on to the inside? Use an cleaner and wipe up your interior to get all the dirt off. Take time on the door handles, gear knob, hand brake, and steering as that's what you touch most often. After you've cleaned and vacuumed the car, use a interior protectant to seal it all up. Get a new air freshner too ... ha ha Tips ... I've only covered the top layer of the work, there's a lot more in it and you'll find out yourself what more is needed after you do it a few times. Only the first time you do it, is it gonna take a long time .. in the future, you'll only need to apply a coat of wax every now and then, but this long procedure has to be done only every 6mo. or so. Try to use all the products from one manufacturer since it's easier to keep track of and they'll all work together. Happy driving ... a shiny car!!!

I wouldn't recommend anything but a mild car wash soap dude. Anything stronger and you're gonna start getting directly into your paint and mess it up in the long run ... well, that also means you have to have a nice layer of was on it at all times. A good car wash with a soft wash mitt only takes off the dirt and grime and not the wax. Any other kind of soap is made to strip this kind of stuff and will expose your paint and expose it to all the elements. My recommendation. Get the car washed, polished and then waxed and then use only a mild car was soap (same with the wheels) when you wash it and whenever you see that water doesn't bead off the surface of the car (as when you have a fresh coat of wax on it), it's time to re-wax. Also, don't even try to wipe your car when its dusty (let it be until the next car wash), it'll ruin the paint ... you'll see the fine scratches when you look at it in the sunlight ... and never take it through the automatic car washes, all they do is scratch up the finish. I've learnt all this the hard way.

No current 'official' projects man, trying to get things settled in the home front. In the last year I've switched jobs, moved houses, been to SL and back, got married, got half my Camaro painted with a new hood and front bumper ('cos I couldn't afford to do it all), Got a new set of wheels/tires for the Camaro, got a new set of wheels/tires for my truck and then sold the truck and all a month later (doh), bought a new SUV and just yesterday bought a huge ass TV (55" Mitsubishi DLP) for real cheap from a friend ... DAMN, I'VE BEEN BUSY ... I've wasted so much money on automobiles this last year I've decided to take it easy for some time ... I got a new K&N filter for the new SUV and my wife got pissed off saying I'm starting all over again (but I told her it was for fuel efficiency, and we actually get a bit better mileage with it) ... ha ha ha ... actually, current plans are to turn the Camaro into a road racer and ditch the drag racing setup. I already have a 6spd manual in there from switching with a guy who wanted a drag race auto tranny, just need to get all the suspension figured out.

Just don't have the time and money (mostly time though) to get the damn thing into street legal to pass inspection. I'm just thinking of selling it and getting something that's already ready to be put on the road.

let me add to the story ... in addition to the overdrive (where the output shaft of the transmission is rotating faster than the input shaft from the engine) on newer automatic transmissions, the torque convertor has a lockup feature at cruising speeds that makes it basically like a clutch. Theoretically, if the clutch isn't engaged and the auto trans is in its highest gear, the engine is turning faster than the transmission input shaft since it's only a fluid couple in the torque convertor ... when the torque convertor locks up, it makes it like a regular clutch and therefore the engine and the tranny input shaft turn at the same speed ... although this isn't a complete gear, it "simulates" another gear. When you're moving and you lightly get on the pedal, you'll feel it disengage. Press harder and you'll finally feel it shift into a lower gear. When towing a heavy trailor or climbing a hill, you should usually turn it off since the transmission will constantly try to get it into overdrive and engage the clutch (to save fuel) but the load will make it shift back and uncouple ... over and over and you'll burn up your convertor/clutch pack. But don't turn it off for too long 'cos you'll burn up your tranny by heating the fluid up too high.

hey, you can still try again. Use some lightly soapy water (like shampoo) and a credit card (or something soft plastic to squeeze the water out when you're satisifed. The trick to getting those pesky corners to work out well ... use a hair dryer to neatly shrink the edges of the tint sticker so it conforms to the curves, trust me it works and that's the way they do the really large back windows of our cars over here. Well, it's a longer process but just the same.Try a couple times till you get good at it, you may get lucky and get it the first time! ... here's an example on a friend's car... car is dirty, but you ge tthe idea I don't like the spray 'cos it's hard to get an even coat (looks patchy when the lights are on), getting a shiny finish takes a lot of patience and it's permanent. You'll have to wet sand the lenses to get them back to where they were if you don't like them in the future.

Thanks man, although I can't remember by name, I'm sure I'll recognize you if I saw you. I met Juhary a couple months ago when I went to Canada. Bugger still looks the same with his big ears ... ha ha

Haven't been on here for a long time so I thought I'd drop by and say "hi" and whuttup?" and "how's it hanging?" ... well? Your turn ...

Thanks! You're in MD? Do I know you? Shyt, did I forget who you are? Yeah, it's going to stay a street car. Everything is going to stay as stock as possible. I'm gonna have to put in a roll cage and get sefety harnesses and a fire jacket if I'm gonna race it anywhere in the US 'cos the min. time you can run is a 11.50 without the need for upgraded safety equipment. Since it was a last day at the track, they kinda let me off the hook. I'm sure they'll kick me out next year if I don't have them. Not looking forward to the $ I have to put into that 'cos it's all stuff that needs to be done by a pro and up to NHRA specs. Maybe with a new job I'm looking at after graduation (like next week), I'll probably be able to afford it

Haven't been on here for quite a while but what better way to make my comeback that by announcing my latest achievement. After my engine/tranny swap, I took it to the track and busted out a 11.65sec@116mph with the old camshaft but recently upgraded to another camshaft and also installed a new intake, and then retuned. Put down 401HP to the rear wheels on our chassis dyno with a 3800RPM stall torque convertor. Anyways, took it out to the track today and played around again with launching/shifts points and came out with a new best time of 11.26@120 with more to go. Still a couple small things like a better ratio gear in the axle and maybe degreeing a cam a bit to see if I can bring the powerband lower and I'm sure to hit 10's! Aight, over and out! ps - here's the dynograph, very light ... sorry

Pretty stupid shit but oh well, whatever makes them happy. Click here to see Video

Found this ... my thoughts --> looks pretty interesting and is a very unique idea. Since there is not cam per say, upgrading would involve changing out the whole twin cam assembly but! ... NO worries about cam springs/etc. anymore and some crazy lift numbers/lobes (well, comparatively) are def. possible. LINK! ... http://www.coatesengine.com/csrv.html From one of their Press releases ... "Where the CSRV really shines is in its airflow potential compared to a poppet valve Bench-marking a 5.0 L engine from a Lincoln, the stock Ford casting (when tested at 28 inches of H2O) flowed approximately 180 cfm on the intake port at static. The rotary valve for the engine in comparison flowed a whopping 319-cfm at the same test pressure. Equipped with the poppet valve head, the Lincoln engine dynoed at 260 hp and 249 lb.-ft of torque. When equipped with the CSRV head at the same 5,500 rpm test protocol, it made 475 hp and 454 lb.-ft of torque, with no changes to the block or rotating assembly: The higher power was a result of diminished frictional and pumping losses, but the inherent airflow benefit of the spherical valve was the major contributor. With a conventional poppet valve, it can take 34 degrees of crankshaft rotation or more to reach a fully open position, wasting energy and limiting volumetric efficiency. With the CSRV, a comparable port area is exposed in only 2 degrees of crank rotation. The CSRV allows for superior surface flow coefficients from its spherical shape. With the standard 4-inch Ford bore, the factory poppet valve covers only 15.8 percent of the total bore area, while the rotary valve is measured at 20.5 percent" NOW THIS IS AWESOME !!!

Can't remember if this topic was brought up but I found a neat article about it on www.greencar.com and thought I'd share. If you think the days of the internal combustion engine are over, especially when it comes to high performance ones, you would be wrong. Every time it seems this familiar engine technology can’t run clean enough or deliver sufficient fuel economy to meet environmental and fuel economy standards, technology comes to the rescue. Examples abound. Computerized engine management systems and electronic fuel injection not only have allowed the internal combustion engine to meet increasingly tighter standards, but have brought us engines with longer lifetimes, less maintenance requirements, and often better performance. When is the last time your engine didn’t start because of a carburetor problem, pinged because of poor fuel quality, or required timing to be reset for high altitude driving? The latest example that’s breathing new life into the internal combustion engine is the variable displacement technology being applied by several auto manufacturers. The concept is straightforward: The internal combustion engine is quite versatile, with the ability to supply just enough power for idling or cruising at 70 mph, and then in an instant provide large amounts of power for passing or climbing a steep hill. Unfortunately, this flexibility means that an engine must be designed to handle maximum power requirements, even though power demands are far less most of the time. This inefficient approach means that vehicles use more fuel than necessary under most driving conditions. One answer is to continue using an engine large enough to handle all possible power needs, while allowing some of the cylinders to deactivate under specific operating conditions so a high output V-8 or V-6 operates like a four- or three-cylinder engine. Enter the modern cylinder deactivation systems that are now on American highways. The solenoid control valve in DaimlerChrysler’s Multi-Displacement System allows high-pressure oil to reach the switching lifter, which stops the valves from opening. DaimlerChrysler’s version, dubbed the Multi-Displacement System (MDS), allows the 5.7-liter HEMI V-8 in the 2005 Chrysler 300C, Dodge Magnum RT, Dodge Ram, and Jeep Grand Cherokee to produce 340 horsepower and 390 lbs-ft of torque while still getting up to 17 mpg city/25 mpg highway fuel economy. DaimlerChrysler has an even more potent 6.1-liter V-8 HEMI on the way with MDS, rated at 425 horsepower and 420 lbs-ft of torque to power the 2005 Chrysler 300C SRT8. This car will have performance that surpasses musclecar-era Mopars with performance targets of 0-60 mph times in the low five-second range, blowing through the quarter-mile in just over 13 seconds. DaimlerChrysler says MDS reduces fuel use by about 20 percent. GM’s 5.3-liter V-8 is available with DOD in specific applications. General Motors calls its cylinder deactivation system Displacement-on-Demand (DOD). The first application of this technology in GM vehicles is found in the 5.3-liter Vortec V-8, available in the 2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer EXT, GMC Envoy XL, and Envoy XUV, as well as the new Gen IV 5.3-liter V-8 (LS4) engine in the 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP. According to GM, DOD provides fuel savings of 8- to 25-percent, depending on driver and driving conditions, by switching seamlessly between V-8 and V-4 operation. Peak output for this engine is 300 horsepower and 330 lbs-ft of torque. Incidentally, this engine is the latest rendition of the legendary small block Chevy V-8 that debuted in 1955! That’s just another example of the great adaptability of internal combustion engines. The all-new 2005 Honda Odyssey uses Variable Cylinder Management (VCM) that allows its 3.0-liter i-VTEC V-6 engine to run on either six or three cylinders. This engine, which is rated at 255 horsepower and 250 lbs-ft of torque, reportedly combines the performance of a 3.0-liter V-6 engine with the kind of fuel economy experienced with a 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine. This V-6 with VCM is also part of the Integrated Motor Assist (IMA) system in the Honda Accord Hybrid. This not the first time cylinder deactivation has been used in passenger vehicles. General Motors offered it in the infamous V-8-6-4 engines used in 1981 Cadillacs. Depending on driving conditions, the V-8-6-4 engine ran on four, six, or eight cylinders. However, GM discontinued the trouble-prone V-8-6-4 after only one year, although it was used on Cadillac limousines through 1984. The technology was not quite ready for the market since the available computers and software of the time could not smoothly shut down the cylinders. The deactivation technology was also limited by a cable throttle and mechanically controlled transmission. We’ve come a long way, since today's engine computers are about 25 times faster, have 50 times the computing power, and 100 times the memory of the 1981 controller. Electronic throttles and electronic transmissions are now also available. Special lifter used in the GM Displacement-on-Demand System. With Displacement-on-Demand, the powertrain control module determines load conditions from vehicle sensors and driver commands. Under light load this sophisticated, 32-bit controller automatically closes both intake and exhaust valves on alternate cylinders of each cylinder bank (for example, numbers 1, 7, 4 and 6 cylinders). The valves are reopened the instant the control module determines that vehicle speed or load requires more power. The module also controls fuel injectors, electronic spark advance, and electronic throttle for transition between V-4 and V-8 operation so quickly that engine output increases immediately. The switchover is seamless and virtually imperceptible. The engine is started on eight cylinders. Four solenoids control the flow of engine oil to special hydraulic valve lifters on the intake and exhaust valves that are deactivated. One section of the lifter telescopes into the other section and the two sections can be either coupled or uncoupled by a locking pin. Oil pressure pulls out the pin so the lifter collapses and closes the valves. Removing pressure returns the locking pin, causing the lifter to transfer the lift of the camshaft to the rest of the valve train. When uncoupled, the lifter acts like a spring and the valve train doesn't move, stopping that cylinder from producing power. Deactivation and activation for all four cylinders occurs within one engine cycle, that is, two revolutions of the crankshaft. In DOD’s activation mode (right), hydraulic pressure dislodges the locking pin in the lifter and collapses the lifter, closing the valve. Removing pressure (left) results in the locking pin returning to its latched position so the lifter functions as normal. Displacement-on-Demand was developed with assistance from the Eaton Corp., which developed the Cadillac V-8-6-4 engine. Eaton also developed DaimlerChrysler’s MDS, which works like DOD but shares no components. According to GM, Displacement on Demand is most easily adapted to overhead valve (OHV) engines with only two valves-per-cylinder. GM has stuck with more traditional OHV engines but has highly developed them to keep up with competition. With two valves-per-cylinder, only two actuators-per-cylinder are needed. DOD will work with multi-valve OHC (overhead camshaft) engines, but with more complexity and at greater cost, requiring four actuators-per-cylinder and controls that must be packaged within the cylinder head assembly. With its OHC and 32-valves, the HEMI V-8 presents a more complete application. While DOD has been effectively added to an existing engine design, MDS was included by DaimlerChrysler in its engine design from the start. This allowed a cylinder deactivation system that is relatively simple with fewer parts, maximum reliability, and lower cost. MDS deactivates the valve lifters to keep the four valves in four cylinders closed. In addition to stopping combustion in these cylinders, energy is also saved by not pumping air through these cylinders. The four activation solenoids supplied by Saturn Electronics are located in the cylinder block. Advanced components like high-speed electronic controls with sophisticated algorithms and electronic throttle control enable the HEMI V-8 to transition from eight cylinders to four in a mere 40 milliseconds. Variable Cylinder Management System installed on Honda’s V-6 i-VTEC engine. Variable Cylinder Management uses Honda’s i-VTEC (intelligent Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control) to stop the valves on three cylinders from opening. The i-VTEC engine has overhead camshafts with a pivoting cam follower riding on the camshafts. Two rocker arms on either side of the cam follower are interlocked with the cam follower, so as the follower moves the rocker arms open the valves. To deactivate valves, hydraulic oil pressure is supplied by a computer-controlled solenoid to move a pin that interlocks the rockers and cam follower. As this occurs, the cam follower is still free to move as the camshaft rotates, but the rocker arms are no longer connected to it. This pin moves back and forth, linking or unlinking the rocker arms to control valve operation. Even though parts are rotating at several hundred cycles per minute, they can be linked or unlinked in a fraction of a second to switch from six to three cylinders, or back to six cylinders again. The VCM system stops and starts the opening of intake and exhaust valves of the three cylinders in the rear bank on this engine, based on computer analysis of throttle opening, vehicle and engine speed, and gearing. With zero valve lift, the cylinders are sealed, fuel is not injected, and pumping losses are thus reduced by as much as 65 percent. Running a six-cylinder engine on only three cylinders represented a challenge to Honda engineers. VCM required several advanced technologies to mask the vibration inherent in three cylinder engines with their more widely-spaced power pulses. To deal with this, the "drive-by-wire" electronic throttle computer assures that power neither increases or decreases during the switchover. Also, an Active Noise Control system cancels out excessive engine noise using a microphone to detect the noise, and then generating a signal 180 degrees out of phase to cancel out the noise. These canceling sound waves are emitted from the front and rear speakers during three-cylinder operation, idling, and at-start running. The ANC system is not needed when running on all six cylinders. Finally, two active control engine mounts, one in front of the engine and another behind, are controlled by the engine computer, which uses solenoids to damp fluid movement in the mounts. During three-cylinder operation, the computer monitors changes in crankshaft rotation rpms and sends this information to the mounts, which then compress or extend an actuator to dampen the engine vibration. Cylinder deactivation allows the internal combustion engine do what it does best – produce gobs of horsepower and torque when needed, while still providing decent fuel economy under most driving condition. It is a technology that could make a significant impact in the automotive world if implemented in a growing number of engine families in the future.

amen brother!

I just love the way it sounds now ... the vid. doesn't do it justice. Started it up and moved it a bit, it will not idle well 'cos it's such a radical cam and we need to retune the damn thing now. http://webzoom.freewebs.com/meangreenz28/movies/Startup1.wmv Whatcha think? BTW ... as you can see, the paint on my car sucks!!! I'm working on getting it running well right now, looks will come later