Mean Green z28

You're not going to gain anything much from installing a cone filter in place of your stock air box. At times, you could even lose some HP 'cos now you're pulling in hot air from the engine compartment. The only way to surely gain some HP is to get a cold air kit, which actually gets colder denser air from outside the engine compartment (usually in the fenderwell, in front of the wheel) by the use of additional tubing. Most cars aren't able to accept a proper cold air kit 'cos either the frame/sheetmetal may come in the way when the stock air box is removed ... a good shop could custom fabricate a cold air kit with a bit of careful cutting and tubing. I did such a kit to a '04 Pontiac GTO that had issues with high intake air temps., and although we tested it out in the winter, the IAT's dropped by like 25 degrees from just that. I believe the cone shape is merely to get more surface area. You can get many different shapes depending on your application. Cones are popular 'cos 1. it looks cool and 2. It's the easiest to clamp on in tight spaces and 'still look cool'.

Maybe some dumb questions, but if it was sitting around for a long time with fuel in it ... have you drained and refilled the tank with new fuel/2T? Have you checked the air filter to see if it's clogged with dirt/oil/water? I've started a few small lawn mower engines ... from 'locked up in the garage for years' to 'left outside in the rain/snow for months' to tipped over and leaked everywhere. My usual checklist- -Take spark plug out and drain the fuel and check the oil level. -Pull on cord a couple times to rotate engine, lubricate bearings and get any old fuel/fumes out. -Check filter -Refuel/oil and install new spark plug (or cleaned/gapped) -Prime the engine (some engines have a button) one less time than recommended (usually 3, so I do two ... 'cos 3 usually floods it again) -PULL !!! VROOM !!! Hopefully, you didn't mess up the carb settings (idle/fuel) when you turned the screws, that's gonna be an issue now.

I have a Golden retriever & I was buying a large bag of Purina at Wal-Mart and was in line to check out. A woman behind me asked if I had a dog. On impulse, I told her that no, I was starting The Purina Diet again, although I probably shouldn't because I'd ended up in the hospital last time, but that I'd lost 50 pounds before I awakened in an intensive care ward with tubes coming out of most of my orifices and IVs in both arms. I told her that it was essentially a perfect diet and that the way that it works is to load your pants pockets with Purina nuggets and simply eat one or two every time you feel hungry & that the food is nutritionally complete so I was going to try it again. I have to mention here that practically everyone in the line was by now enthralled with my story, particularly a guy who was behind her. Horrified, she asked if I'd ended up in the hospital in that condition because I had been poisoned. I told her no; it was because I'd been sitting in the street licking my balls and a car hit me. I thought one guy was going to have a heart attack he was laughing so hard as he staggered out the door. _____________

Good to go! thanks

since you've replaced, pads/rotors, the next place would be to look at your tires. Check if they're perfectly round and the belts arent comming apart, but I doubt it's this 'cos then you'll even fell it at any speed higher than a slow crawl. Then next thing to look at is your ABS system. Check to see if all the sensors are intact and working properly, and also re-flush the whole braking system 'cos if you get air in the ABS unit, it's gonna cause braking problems. There maybe a specific way of bleading it depending on car and that's VERY important.

2-stroke has less moving parts 'cos of no valvetrain, so you can rev higher/faster. They are more efficient at higher RPM's, much like the rotary engines. Yes, they're dirty but the power/cc is higher than a 4 stroke engine. The reason for using the oil mixed in with the fuel is to lubricate the moving parts inside the crank case since there's no way to get oil in there (since it acts like a pump for the fuel), so the fine mist of oil lubricates the cylinder walls and the bearings.I loved my RZ-50 (had it since I was 16, until a couple years ago when my bro sold it 'cos I was in the US) and friend's TZR-50 when I was in SL 'cos it was actually a pretty quick little bike for what it was and a heck of a lot faster than most 100-150CC bikes ... well atleast, that was like 6 years ago

It was HELL !!! But most of the waiting was because I just wanted to upgrade everything at once and do it the right way. It was a lot more money, hence the longer time to collect funds, but it's better than putting in a sub-par setup and then having to spend again to upgrade. I've still a bit short of the 'good stuff' but atleast the parts I have to replace in the future are parts I got for free.Atleast I have the satisfaction of knwing that I did everything by myself

Well, some of you wanted me to keep ya'll updated ... The whole engine/divetrain swap has been completed and she's up and running!. Had a few hiccups here and there with the wiring and stuff but it's gonna be a beast now! At only part throttle, the tires just light up and have a real hard time keeping traction ... Hoping for mid 10sec. 1/4mile times with this base when it's all broken-in and the new cam/rearend (I've got a small cam in there for the break-in process). *fingers crossed* ... more info, check out my page www.freewebs.com/meangreenz28

Why? says I'm not authorized

Definitely RWD, I love fishtailing down the road ... or after this weekend's offroading trip 4WD!

I've used the E-Boost on one of our turbo TransAm's and it's a pretty nifty unit. There is soo much that can be done with it, it's just rediculous! You can program it to even make your own boost curves (come up gradually, spike up and then come down to the desired, come straight up, etc.), adjust the sensitivities to boost, and some other crazy stuff (which I didn't go into detail and use) ... definitely a superior system, a bit pricey though (compared to other units).

Yeah, offroading alone is a big NO NO! If you follow the link to my album, you could see the other truck (a red Ford Ranger) that also went. We had tow straps and stuff ready, but didn't take any unnecessary risks. We always walked the trail if we were in doubt of what's ahead and made u-turns when it was too tough for our trucks to handle. Considering the fact that my truck is 11 yr old stock 4-cyl with over 155,000 miles on the clock and stock clutch, with 33"x12" tires on, it kicked ass on the trails! Except for the hardest terrain (believe me, you need some serious stuff to go over those), it just said "obey me" and walked all over it!

got a WHOLE BUNCH of pics here ... www.freewebs.com/meangreenz28/offroading.htm

pretty good read and answers a few questions but his judgement on the Innertia load/eddy current dyno is half educated. The innertia load/eddy current dyno is possibly the best chassis dyno you can get. You get the most accurate readings from this type of dyno. Ofcourse since it's more accurate, you're probably gonna see a bit less on the HP numbers but it's not like that's the only thing that gets you to the end of the track. We have cars putting down 400HP at the wheels but running numbers at the track that suggest over 500HP because of drivetrain, etc. An automatic car is gonna show less than a manual car 'cos of the higher losses in the driveline due to the torque convertor, etc. A auto car with a hight stall convertor is gonna show even more less ... but that doesn't mean it's not producing the power. We had an engine put out about 950HP on an engine dyno, but when installed in the car and dynoed, put out only 640HP at the wheels ... but it covered the 1/4mile in 9.3 seconds (pretty damn good for only 640HP right?)There's two types of chassis dynos. The constant load dyno and the innertial load dyno. Constant load dynos have a drum of predetermined weight (usually 2000-4000lbs) and the computer calculates the power of the car by measuring the amount of time it takes the car to spin the drum. Innertia load dynos go one step further and put an additional load on the drum through means of an eddy current load cell and calculate a more accurate number depending on the weight of the car and load. Example - rather than just spinning a 2000lb drum (assuming your car weighs 3500lbs), the dyno will add 1500lbs of load to the drum (for a total of 3500lbs.) and run though the test procedure, thereby giving you a more accurate reading. As always, the run should be conducted at a 1:1 gearing for proper calculation (usually 4th gear). Any other gear would give slightly offset numbers (since a lower gear has more trq. etc.). The weight he's talking about is probably the weight of the roller/drum used. By altering the value of the weight, the software is going to calculate the power according to the weight given. Yes, altering it will change the values, but that is why the unit is calibrated when built. I work with a innertia load dyno and it's so much better than a constant load dyno because you can actually simulate actual on-road driving by increasing the load/etc.. You can even simulate a full 1/4mile drag race (with the lights and everything!) and it's accurate to about 2-3 tenths in most cases. Ofcourse, you need to know about the car ... weight, wind resistance due to frontal area, etc. 'cos it takes all that into account when it calculates and loads the dyno accordingly. The guy from the dyno company probably didn't reply to him 'cos he was such an ignorant boob.

If it works as good as it sounds, all power to them! I swear I spent half my vacation in SL last year waiting on Taxis. That's until one of my friends hooked me up with a car

Well, here's mine ... kinda close to my current project except for a few stuff. I'm quoting a lot higher than the actual prices for some. Buying used on most parts will reduce the cost dramatically!!! Get cheap '94+ F-body (Camaro or Firbird) ... approx $4000 (some can be had for way less with a busted engine) 408cu.in. short block ... $4000 Ported heads/valve springs/rockers/etc. ... $2500 Modified Wiring Harness/PCM ... $500 Built TH-400 trans and torque convertor ... $2500 Torque arm setup (to make up for the trans change) ... $450 Fully built 12 Bolt rear axle ... $2500 Full drag coilover suspension kit and sway bars ... $1000 F&R wheels and tires for the drag strip ... $1000 Nitrous kit ... $750 Full roll cage ... $1500 Total ... $19950 I think I have some left over for fuel and a nitrous bottle fill-up Ofcourse, I'll be stripping the car down to get it as light as possible so I can probably sell some stuff too This setup is pretty capable of a 9 second 1/4 mile pass edit : actually, I just noticed my budget ('cos I'm not in SL) is half of that ... hmmm ... have to think again ... but I'm sure I can go 10's with a $10K budget DUNCAN .. where's yours?

Dyno results ... DYNOMETER RESULTS RPM Power (hp) Torque (lb-ft) Boost (psi) 5,500 1,168 1,115 24 6,000 1,364 1,194 24 6,500 1,554 1,256 24 7,000 1,731 1,299 24 7,500 1,926 1,349 25 8,000 2,002 1,313 25 8,500 2,083 1,287 25 9,000 2,139 1,248 25 9,500 2,105 1,164 25 I wish!

Don't know too much about it, but I know Jay Leno has one. Maybe someone here has more insight. All I know it that it uses a turbine engine from a helicoptor.

what? they gonna lift the limit on displacement? I'll try to get more pics today from a couple more angles

yeah, he's happy as can be. He's been out riding the damn thing the whole day! Mostly because he wants to get a decent amount of mileage on the new engine so he can go thrash the shyt out of it and pick on Hayabusas and also 'cos we wanna put it on the dyno and check out what kinda power it's putting to the wheels. He used to race drag bikes and is quite a big guy, so he can handle the power. When I sit on the bike, I look like a single small shrimp on a huge plate ... lost! I'll just stick to my Ninja 600 ... thats more than enought for me. As for the displacement, this bike has a 1352cc engine and is advertised to have 200hp (the 'Busa has 187hp or something in that range) ... guess what the sanctioning body for motorcycle racing's max cc limit is? yup, you get a cookie, 1352cc ... they made it as BIG as they could go and not inconvenience any riders thinking of seriousely racing the damn thing! News is that Suzuki is in the works of building a meaner Hayabusa to take on the new Ninja ... oh the things we go through to die sooner!

This damn thing is AWESOME !!! Looks like an alein in front 'cos it's got 4 projector beam headlamps in front with a ram air scoop right in the middle. Tach goes all the way to 11000rpm but he's not supposed to rev it up more than 4000rpm for the first 500 or so miles, but that's plenty 'cos it lifts the front nomatter what! FREAKING FAST AS SHYT !!! Well, it has to be, 'cos it's now the worlds fastest production motorcycle (and Suzuki is pissed off 'cos the Hayabusa was #1 since like 1999). It was just released in the US, and got the first one to hit the showroom floor in our area (and each dealer got only one), it didn't even have a day to stay in there 'cos he went and snatched it up so quick! It's red, and the picture in the Kawasaki website doesn't do the color justice 'cos you've got to see it in person outside in the day to really appreciate it.

I hope so ... or I'm gonna take it on a nice long drive into the mountains and roll it off a cliff. BTW, wonder if I can ship this beast to SL for the fun of it (and have it as a going-away car at my wedding), pick on a couple cars in SL, and ship it back here ... wishful thinking ***goes and buys a lottery ticket***

Cool ... errr ... check out my progress on my other post in the Lounge ... doens't look like you post up here too often

I guess I didn't quite get the whole scenario when I decided to put a completely new powertain in my car. I knew it was gonna be a lot of work but DAMN, the budget it now almost 3 times the innitial plan. Most of it deals with, "if I'm doing it, I might as well do it right and throw in the best I can get", and the rest deals with "oh, shyt I forgot I'm gonna need that too. For those who don't know, I've got a '94 Camaro Z28 and am swapping in a 6.0ltr iron block LS1 engine from a '98+ model. This engine is built to the max (forged internals and fly cut pistons), with a rediculously huge cam (yeah, good luck getting it to idle) and custom ported and flowed heads (with dual valve springs, etc.). Since the main interest here is to drag race, I'm also swapping in a TH-400 automatic transmission (3-speed) with a pretty decently stalled torque convertor. The complete fuel system needs to be swapped out (just got half done today), I need to get a new torque arm assembly ($'s!!!! <--- one of those, oh shyt ones), the late model wiring harness needs to be rewired to plug into and work with my older model chassis/electrical system ... and I know that after I get through all this and more shyt, I'm gonna need a stronger rearend 'cos the stock GM 10-bolt is a POS !!! ($2400 !!! <--- one of those, please dont break ones). How much have I spent so far? TOO MUCH, and more to go!!! all this on a part time job

I rode aroung in SL for like 6 years (since I was 14) with no license ... I don't think the ralahamis over here will let me go like the one in SL did