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Thanks all for the replies. I'll go to my mechanic this weekend and see what he says. I'll update the post with the info.

Thanks a lot for the reply. But how the rpm become normal as soon as I clean the throttle body. What could cause the TB to get deposits more sooner. Please advice.

No. I use petrol (octane 90).

Hi all, I have a corolla AE100 (yom: 1995) and it has the following problem. I need your kind advice on this issue. When I tuned up the engine last time (an year back), I reported to the mechanic that the pulling power was not enough. He said it was because the engine rpm was low (around 400-500) and it should be around 700 for normal operation. Then he said after the tune up the rpm has come to the normal level. I too felt that the engine got more power after the tune up. Then after around 2 months time, I could feel that the rpm has gone down as it was previously. According to one of my friends suggestion, I cleaned the throttle body myself. Then the rpm has come to the norml level. But again the same happened after around 2 months time. This indicated me (don't know whether it is true) that there is some relationship between the TB and the rpm. while I cleaned the throttle body, I didn't see much corbon deposits also. Is there any relationship between the throttle body deposit and rpm? That is like when the TB gets dirty, engine rpm goes down. Is there any specific reason for the throttle body gettig more deposits in less time? Please, I need your expert advice.

Thanks for all the replies. Can I have more inputs on the time? especially the time taken in morning.

Thanks for the replies. The fan works ok. To make sure the problem is with the valve/thermostat I need to know how long a normal (toyota) car takes to warm up. Mine is around 10 yrs old. Can you people give your car readings (how many minutes it takes for the engine to warm up)?

Thanks for such descriptive info. About the fan, the electric fan seems to work when the engine is hot. It is not ON always (in my car). So, I think the fan problem would not be there. But my doubt is that whether the thermostat is open always. That is, the radiator coolant circulates since I start the engine which will increase the time to reach the operating temperature. Won't this be a case? And I am worried that, since the engine runs cold for a longer time period, this may consume more fuel.

Thanks for the reply. This is with the A/C is on. When the A/C is switched off the time taken is lesser. Can you please explain a bit more about the fan thing because I didn't understand it well.

Hi, I have a toyota corolla (AE100) car. When I start the car and drive in the morning, it takes more than 10 minutes (sometimes around 15 mins) for the temperature gauge to come to the mid point (operating temperature). Is this a normal behaviour? Or is this the sign of 'thermostat stuck open'? If so, what other symptoms I can observe from the car? Please advice. Thanks.

Anybody recently replaced the ball joints? How much does one cost? Mine is a toyota corolla AE100.

Thanks for the replies. I replaced the ball joints last year, so they are one year old. Do I have to change the ball joints every year?

There has been a clunking noise coming from the front wheels of my car. This noise was firstly heard when I turn the wheels through steering and later it has been always there while drinving. My mechanic diagnosed it and told me that the ball joints are tight (very hard to move) and bacause of that the noise is coming. He oiled the joints to temporarily eliminate the noise. According to him the joint was not damaged but only problem is not enough lubrication. He suggested me to drill a hole and place a nipple on to it so that the joint can be lubricated periodically. I haven't decided yet to go for his option. What do you guys think? What could be the cause of this problem? Anybody experienced similar situation? How did you overcome such a problem? Please share your experience with me, It would be a great help.

I was able to repair my evaporator coil (welding) and now my a/c works fine (cost: 5k). But, the only problem is (as somebody mentioned already), the elctronic thermostat didn't work after the repair. I had to install a manual one (temporary solution) until I go for a new coil.

Thanks for the info. I'll definitely consult another shop. But, how about welding? is it not possible on these coils?

Hi, My car a/c evaporator coil has developed a leak. One of the auto a/c shops diagnosed the problem and quoted me 17k to replace (malaysian part) and service. There are 2 places in the coil where the leak is present. My problem is, I have already done the same repair around 1.5 years back from the same shop. They said it normally lasts for atleast 3 years, and the warranty covers only 1 year so they can't help on it. I don't know how this happened; I do drive daily with a/c on. I should blame my fate. Anybody here knows an alternative (cheap) way (other than a replacement)? How about welding? Please recommend me the places too. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the reply. I did the tune-up from a guy (D*ammi*ka F*rnando) in Cotta road. I think he used some dianostic tools including exhaust gas analysis. He told that the problem might be due to the malaysian engine mounts. Any toyota owners had similar issues?

The mechanic who diagnosed the engine, did a tune-up and he said the vibration is not because of misfiring or by injectors.

My car (toyota corolla AE100, 95) engine, steering and the body vibrates at idle, when the engine runs at a particular rpm. If the rpm is changed from that point by giving gas or by switching on/off the air conditioner, the vibration disappears. I'm pretty sure that the vibration is rpm dependant. I think this problem appeared after I changed the motor mounts. I talked to a mechanic who diagnosed the engine for problems. He said the vibration is due to the motor mounts; The new mounts are malaysian made, and they don't remove the vibration fully. Anybody had similar problems? What mounts do you use? How much would be the japanese mounts? It costed me around 10000/= for all 3 mounts (in last May). Please let me know your comments. Thanks.

Hi Guys, Yesterday when I switched on my car ignition, no lights were ON on the dashboard and I couldn't start the car. I twisted the battery positive terminal connection (suspecting this was due to the battery problem). Then the dashboard lights were ON and the car did start. But, the engine RPM was a bit higher than normal (I don't have an RPM meter to specify the value). At the operating temperature, RPM was lesser than the cold one but, it was higher than the normal RPM at operating temperature. Can anyone tell what could be the problem? FYI: Mine is a toyota corolla AE100 (YOM 95).

GO ONLY IF YOU WANT TO WASTE THE MONEY FOR NOTHING. I too have very bad experience with them.

Thanks for the reply. If fuel delivery is the problem, can the fuel delivery differ depending on the engine temperature? Becaus the vibration and more power loss occurs when the engine is warm.

It is fuel injected. Car is 10 yrs old. Still I didn't test the fuel pressure. I thought doing it after I get some input from this forum.

I have told my car's problem to many mechanics but I couldn't get a good solution for it. I think I will get some help from this forum. The car had less power. When the temperature gauge reach the operating temperature (mid point) the power output goes further down. I suspect the rpm goes down when the engine is warm. Engine also starts to vibrate due to this low rpm (I could feel from the steering wheel). To check whether if there any problems in the fuel system. I examined the spark plugs. Two of them had dry dark grey deposits and the others were fine. Then I did a fuel injector cleaning using a 3M product. Then the condition was better for around 3 days (engine delivered more power and the vibration was less). But now, it has started to develop the similar problems. I did some research on the internet and there they suggested the fuel pressure regulator might be wrong. Can anybody help to run my car just fine?

Hi Guys, I just have a doubt to be cleared before going for an engine repair. I inspected the spark plugs and 2 of them seem to be porblematic. Their threads were bit oily and the bottom parts (spark place) were dry. Further the bottom part was blacky. The center electrode's white cover was also half blackish. Whats the cause of this actually? I saw some pictures of the oil-fouled plugs and their bottom was wet and oily. This makes confusion.

The milage is 150k. please suggest me the places where you/somebody had done a successful engine repairs. Because I don't want to give this to a normal mechanic. please put your experience (engine repairs) also with your suggestions.