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Hi friends, I'm new to mazda and planning to make my next ride an Axela or Mazda3 (looking for a pre facelift model, 2008 or bit less). Can you brothers please assist me on the question what is better and why? ie: the differences between Axela and Mazda3 AND things to consider selecting either of it.. (eg: Manual or triptronic, fuel economy, etc) Thanking you all in advance...

Hi buddy, i faced one such incident.. U can read it here http://forum.autolanka.com/index.php?showtopic=6969 Since u've said the fuses r ok, I think u r having the same kind of illness which my ride had... B'coz when it is switched to the "Door" position, the cabin light is controlled by the time controller unit which is inside the meter panel

============= JOB DONE ============= Finally took the car to the agents. After doing all the checkings (by a known faithful fellow) the answer was to replace the meter board. Bought one from the market, plugged it in by myself, woooff..!!! All the malfunctions gone... Everything back in perfect condition. Thank you all of my unseen friends at AutoLanka.com for all the helps given... Thanx again...

Hi All, Following were the observations I had when i chk my buddy by my self using multimeter & technical manual, --- Remote receiver module harness --- Door open/close sensor signal from all 4 doors: working Key in/out sensor signal from key cylinder: working Drivers door lock status (locked or not) sensor signal: working Power to the unit: working --- Central Locking switch in the driver side door (It has 3 wires: Lock, unlock, ground) --- Ground wire continuity: working Lock/Unlock wires: NOT healthy (ie: 2.7V) (Note: It should have 5V by default and it should trigger the lock/unlock upon them being grounded) Any comments?

Niro, There is a relay which controls the power to the power window. Its powered (the relay) when the key is in "ON" position and releases back when the key is returned to ACC or LOCK position. In rare cases some relays tend to touch (touch and hold) there contacts permanently due to a small sparks occurred when they are in use. So, smtimes ur car might b having that kind of problem. Try n chk that relay by replacing it with a known working one...

Niro, There is a relay which controls the power to the power window. Its powered (the relay) when the key is in "ON" position and releases back when the key is returned to ACC or LOCK position. In rare cases relays tend to touch (touch and hold) there contacts permanently due to a small sparks occurred when they are in use. So, smtimes ur car might b having that kind of issue. Try n chk that relay by replacing it with a known to be working one...

Hay Nilantha, The car is in best condition when compared with the same age, model ones in the country... (When I go for a service/maintenance workshop I usually receive several requests from other car owners asking let them know if I'm willing to sell it) The technical manual says all the aforesaid electrical items are powered by same set of fuses (Fuse # 10,12, 13). In this case all the fuses are ok. Thats the dilemma im facing... :-\

Hi All, I'm having a nissan Sunny FB15 (Super saloon - Splend) which was made in 2000. All of a sudden following items failed to work as usual. - Central locking. - Interior lamp (It doesn't wk in the "Door" position.) - Warning chime (ie: the beeper which reminds the key or parking lights are on when the drivers door is open) - Meter panel (speedometer, tachometer, fuel, temp meters and Odometer does NOT work. Bulb indications are working.) (Note: The car has a factory fitted remote key, so central locking was as per the original wiring) Can anyone pls give me a solution...