Nishan.dj

Thanks Rumesh. I have some points that need to ask from you and all. Kindly reply with the detail as you know it. I have 2 batteries as I mentioned above. One is maintenance free battery that is bought recently and other one is little old which may be around 2 years and it is NOT a maintenance free one. I check it regularly and refill if required. The older one is on left side. As you can see from the images attached, there is always a 0.2-0.4 difference while charging. Also when the vehicle is idle for several days and then at the first start, the left side battery (older one) voltage falls down to 9.4v and the right side one which is the new one falls only to 10.5v. But once charged after a many kilometers run, the older one only falls down to 10.1v when starting again and the right side one (new one) falls around 11v only. Does this mean, my older battery is running out of it's time that I will be able to save some money for a new battery? What do you think that I can do to make that battery life longer? Thanks again.

Thank you for the detailed reply. Really appreciate it.

Here I have created a simple volt meter. I had to use 2 panels because I wanted to see the voltage of two batteries separately. This costs below Rs.1500 for me and display was bought from ebay. This is for my jeep and therefore could easily be fixed other than a modern car. It is really helpful for me to check the status of battery when the vehicle is idle for several days. I attached 2 switches to switch it on/off at the time I want. Thanks for reading. My next attempt is to fix a digital ampere meter as well. Happy DIY project for me. Hope yours too.

Not expensive at all. Around Rs.100 for 150g or so. Its like sugar (white) [not brown sugar ]

Hello harshansenadhir I bought this Epsom salt from a pharmacy. The chemicals or the ingredients here are called "Magnesium sulfate" and if you ask it specifically, you might get them as well. I tried on 2 old batteries that they had no damaged cells, and could recover it so that one I use it for the vehicle and another for lighting an emergency light system at home. Happy DIY project for you.

Not a expert on this but generally I think you have to check your brake booster, master pump from a good mechanic to see whether it operates perfectly. Mostly if there are no issues on brake pads or whatever the things inside the wheel, It could be related to the booster or the pump or even may be the lines. I had a same issue on my vehicle which is very older than yours I think and basically I had to replace the booster and some parts. Hope this helps.

Thanks XBeat for the suggestion. I already have got 5W LED [with heat sink] and its good. The only drawback is that the light is sharp and feel little uncomfortable to see but with the costs that incur with the investment to make, its not a big issue. Anyway will try it and post. Thanks.

Hi Nilupa.uok I got a new radiator from Lionel Raiator [Contact Details] and as I know they manufacture those here in Sri Lanka. The thing is that I got it for a 4DR5 Jeep and kindly call them and ask for what model you want. That time I called D*MO Radiators as well to find the prices. I think their products are bit expensive but good in quality. However since its not the same vehicle I am talking about, kindly consider this as a tip to find. If you find a good place to buy AC Condensers and related parts , please post the details as well. Thanks.

Thanks Rumush88 for the detailed explanation. What I am thinking is that, getting the DC power for several bulbs that are switched on most of the times such as 3-4 CFLs [18W or lower]. Then I can be able to get the work done from the set of existing equipment without investing much on it. Thanks so much on your reply.

Thank you sir, I could manage to contact few people who have had solar house lighting system and now taken 220V AC supply for their homes. If I am to get one of those [used panels] I will have to check the amperage of those with the original amperage to check the status of the panel. To do so, All I have to do is to measure the amp with a meter or is there any other process to check those panels? As this is not a final decision I still expect that Rumesh88 will reply to the post that I publish above. Thank you.

I must thank to Sylvi and Rumesh for giving valuable responses. Rumesh, kindly read the following; 1. Power source - I was considering to buy a 10W - 15W panel which may give 0.6AMP - 1AMP current. [without having any idea whether it will be enough as Sylvi mentioned] 2. Storage device - 12V 70AMP Battery [There may be 2-3 batteries connected together that gives 12V but more amperage based on the capacity that the panel can support] 3. Your load - My idea is basically to use the 12V DC power for lighting the house instead of using 220V AC main line. Currently there are 4 to 12 CFL bulbs (20W) are switched on at night but mostly it is like 5 bulbs that are on for longer period. [However equipment that require more power such as fridge, water pump ...etc are to be powered by 220V AC] 4. Regulator - think that 10AMP is enough but kindly appreciate your response. So what would be your suggestion? appreciate your response. Thanks.

Hi All, I am not much knowledgeable on this but I want to make a solar charger for both 12V and 24V [12*2] Batteries. I have few things that need to understand and kindly reply to the post if you know something about it. First of all; A regulator and a 10W or 15W Solar Panel would be Ok for a 12V 70Amp battery solar charger as I understand and from those two I think I can make one. If I get two 5W Solar Panels [seems like its a bit cheap], can I connect them in a way that the output would be 10W and double the current? If It is not please explain what else to do. Second of all; How many watts that I have to look for in the panel If I make a charger for 24V System? Are there any places that sells only or mostly solar panels in Sri Lanka that you know? Apart from these; I looked at building a Solar panel from solar cells kit that is a bit of a work to do rather than buying a whole panel and has anyone tried it? After all; kindly suggest me a good way of doing it. First I want to build 12V one and then to 24V one. Appreciate your responses and thanks in advance.

Mensoft, Links are really helpful. Thanks for the post. Really appreciate it.

Hi Watchman & Sylvi, Thanks for sylvi's advice on this and certainly it will work. And also Watchman, all the electrical system is on 24V and there is no 12V separate line. I can't make the parking to be working as 12V because as it is the part of the whole electrical system and if it is going to change to 12V, then there will be more work and more cost. Also I looked at these 1W LEDs on eBay as well and even if little expensive, it will be good as I think & what do you think about it?. Anyway kindly post what you think on this which is that; any better way of doing it for 24V system?. [sometimes it may be 27.8V or so when charging]. Thanks.

Really good work mensoft. Can you suggest me a simple circuit for doing this on a vehicle that is powered by 24V system. Thanks.

Hi Watchman, Thanks for the good points you mentioned above. Certainly as you wrote, I must concern about brake washers and related parts which I think your point is correct. Anyway I got all system serviced with replacing washers and all after doing this conversion and I think it would be better. I have parallel lines and of course as you said, if I have had a single lines split to each wheel I should have concerned more. I also checked the pistons and also had an idea to change them as well but ultimately it was not required. Thank you for pointing out a good advice on "few cracked brake washers over the year" which I will keep it tough with what's going on there with new system. If it fails certainly I will post. But so far, As I was mentioned, the vacuum level I get is really good and I think having a vacuum meter also a good idea because It gives me a good chance to get an idea about breaking especially when I drive off the road. [Not on contests but in real situations]. My next attempt is to fixing 2 volt meters such as these to measure the battery performance when I want. It is also an DIY project and I will post once it is done. Thanks for the valuable details you mentioned and, I will post both of these under DIY section with pics and all.

Hi Kushana I got my 4DR5 sometime back after inspecting 17 jeeps. I found some are illegal and they have some number on chassis and another on books. So I will list down what I looked when I buy it. 1. As Janith explained it well, check documents. the book specially. chassis no is important. if you can get the book checked from RMB as well. Mostly the engine number may differ because most of the time its not the original engine we have on those jeeps 2. As janith said, "chassis bend a little by the middle just pass the front seat" you can see it by looking at very carefully under the passenger seat chassis 3. check any cracks on chassis 4. Read this post [ it has more important facts about testing the engine and all. [Thanks to Saturn who posted it.] 5. As said, Check 4WD works fine. Because most people disengage it even from the gear box when problem comes [Those who think they don't need 4WD]. If so you ask them why they did it and may be if the vehicle is in good condition you can reduce the price so that you can get it fixed. 6. Most of the times, I have seen that; sellers tune brakes to its optimum level so that you will feel that it has been maintained well. But If you bring a good mechanical person, he can try it and see if there are things to be fixed such as when you brake suddenly the vehicle may move to a side either left or right. 7. See any modifications the current owner has done to the jeep and any damages he has done to the chassis ..etc like suspension changes. 8. Like the above post I mentioned, check for body damages, any corrosion or you may need to have to do tinkering as well which you may cost little high and check the canopy as well. Its good to remember that, as these vehicles are old you may find some repairs need. If you are lucky you can find a good vehicle and my suggestion is that if you can spend little extra money and try getting a good one such as if you need AC and PS on your jeep, try finding one that has those instead of getting one and fixing them. Because that may cost more money and your time as well. Happy finding one.

Of course, You can find a vacuum tank from the market around 4-5K may be from a Van or so to fit the original space which you may have to remove the original tank. Anyway If not you may need additional works to attach the vacuum lines to the one you have now. I found that almost all the vacuum tanks [used] are rusty and having some corrosion. Since it is brakes, I did it this way. Anyhow it gives more vacuum power now but you must have a good exhaust system to do so too.

Its a very small empty gas cylinder I got and attached the vacuum lines to it with a non-return valve. Its a DIY project and the outcome is very good. Check out this link .. you may get some other tank to keep the vacuum.

I did a brake booster conversion with master pump and also added an extra vacuum tank as well. The 4DR5 master pump 15/16 inch one and I put 1 inch pajero master pump and booster together because repairing the original booster costs more. The booster and pump together costs me 7500LKR. Once you convert the booster you have to think about the vacuum tank as well because as the booster is larger the original vacuum tank is not able to suck the whole air so you will feel that the brake pedal is little hard. Therefore if you really want to feel the brakes much better, you have to add a vacuum tank as well. What I did was that; I got an empty GAS cylinder and fix it under the engine bay and marge with the existing vacuum system. I must thank to Mr. Sylvi Wijesinghe for investigating and supervising this task. Now almost everything related to the booster pump and vacuum is complete and with the vacuum meter inside, I can see the level of vacuum as well. Vacuum tanks are available in local market as well for the price of 4000LKR but they are used and GAS cylinder is much better in any way because It is heavy and tested well. You will complete this work within 25K (I think) and finally will get much performance on brakes. You can contact me anytime on this issue and I can advice as I know; Thanks

Yes its how we measure it and think its the best way.

Thank you very much for your reply. As he is new to the car i think then its normal.

Thanks a lot Mr. Sylvi for checking the system and helping me to understand the basics of auto electrical stuff. Really appreciate your help and I think we need the knowledge from the people like you. I tried recovering 2 used motorcycle batteries and one 70AMP 12V battery in the same way I mentioned above and it was successful except a one motorcycle battery which was holding only 8V because of a dead cells I guess. Happy to say that now the batteries are powering emergency lamp unit for home with 5W LEDs Epsom Salt is available in the local market and cheap also. However I am still testing it with a recently replaced battery to know how long it takes to desulfate totally.

Hi All, A friend of mine got a VIOS 2003 S Auto and he has changed the filters including air filter, done a service including oil change and also done an engine tune up as well. Now the car does only 7.5Km per liter in city limit and "Baas" has said its normal for city limits. However I think it needs to do more than that and as I am not much aware of it, can you all post something about it please? Thanks in advance.