BLu3HaZe

Clean it up carefully with a brush and no, don't remove acid, just make sure the electrolyte level is correct. Maybe this would help you http://forum.autolanka.com/Index.php?/topic/9187-battery-acid-is-leaking/page__view__findpost__p__133702

Hmm, sad truth Hated all the Toyota's we've had including the current one cuz after going in another good car, they feel like crap (except Supra, AE86 and Celica). Only good thing is low F/C which most people seem to care about and long durability of engines (is that also a myth?) Not I, hate that too, great rear visibility, as if the Yaris/.Belta/Vios isn't bad enough for that normally even To OP - Try stretching your budget a bit and go for a SU14, a much better car IMO

Don't you get a sticker when the battery is replaced? We've had cards and stickers in all cars we owned upto now. Is the battery overfilled? Happened on one of our bikes, lot of damage to the metal.

Oh and btw, leaky battery and acid is pretty dangerous as it might lead to explosion and/or corrosion of other parts in the engine bay so get it fixed asap.

Something wrong with your electrical system charging circuit as you don't mention any problem with other parts, alternator giving too high a voltage which is very unlikely, or maybe simply your battery is too old and has reduced capacity or filled with too much electrolyte. First check your battery. Hope jdnet would give a detailed do-it-yourself procedure list

It's possibly overcharging

Proper GT races with RWD cars should be fun! Maybe the M3 could return to racing again??

Makes no difference, only the transmission will get disconnected from the wheels, but the impeller will continue rotating, heating up the fluid when idling but not moving, even when in neutral. Afaik, the only way to stop all movement within a torque converter is to stop the engine, which isn't practical unless in extreme traffic jams. Not fully as you said, the car tends to creep if you release the brake even at idle which you'd also be familiar with the Tuscani So not exactly freewheeling but the turbine not turning even though the engine is applying some power to it.

Toyota isn't god

Nice concept, bad designing Rear looks similar to a NZT240 from a side and a Fit Aria from behind

Hey guys, Sorry for digging up an old thread but can someone explain a bit more as to what model came in which era with what features exactly and how to identify them properly by the external appearance or frame/engine numbers on documents? Found the below pic on the net and it's more confusing, what exactly is NC numbering and 23, 29 etc.? I thought the CBR250 wasn't manufactured after 96, atleast not the frames, but we get many in SL as 2003 models etc., what are they? And as I understand, the "Hurricane" was earliest with a square headlight, then "Gullarm" with two round headlights and the "Fireblade" with two 'cats eyes' headlights, is that right? Thanks in advance! Edit - Just now saw that NC29 was a code number for the CBR400 , is that correct?

More than shielding, it's the 3 cylinder engine like in a minivan giving such, they're not under proper balance and therefore gives more vibration than a 4 cylinder. Eg. only -- It's like an Indian 4 cyl bus vs. Jap 6 cyl bus, you can barely feel it's diesel in the latter as it's in both primary and secondary balance. In your case, nothing to worry though it's quite irritating. Yes all 1.0L Vitz made after 2005 have CVT GBs only, and it's better to stick with the agent in these new cars as some service stations tend to mess up and put ATF in CVT boxes, which would be the end of the GB.

Wow!! A plus side of a 3 over a 360 It's just so real, any such 360 or PC sim games, emulators, ports?

+1

Ah ok, that's what I also have seen, only unleaded. So OP needn't worry about the cat or petrol you pump in, just go the shed and fill 'er up

Do we have leaded petrol now anyway?

http://www.autolanka...car-for-25-3-m/ http://www.autolanka...18-million-slr/ http://www.autolanka...car-round-182m/ http://www.autolanka...ar-4-25-million http://www.autolanka...car-for-25-mil/ http://www.autolanka...18-car-for-25m/ http://www.autolanka...post__p__143060 Search the forum more and read through the threads, would get you results quicker than asking in most cases as these price brackets have been discussed before For your specific question, the facelifted Sunny called N17 and the Bluebird Sylphy you speak of are basically the same car from different markets, and they're both N16 Pulsers if I'm not mistaken. (Sunny had FB codes and Pulser had FN codes). Fit Aria is a decent car according to most owners, and a good budget car. F/C would be better off in the Aria than a 1.3L Sunny, try to stay away from the latter, as the engine is too small for that car and would tend to consume more fuel. If you decide on the Sunny, go for a 1.5L. Resale is hard to predict now.

Good and bad news, the country is going to get into even more financial difficulty, but hey, SL getting a proper F1 track is great! If SL racing gets all advanced and hyped up, IMO there'd be better use of the 'GT' cars we have here... @Peri - Maybe they just mean a track which is 8 F1 cars wide?

We might possibly get a Hybrid too as a JDM car is usually more comfortable, necessary when travelling with females as they throw up in every single trip now, so will post what prices are like later, and yes the Civic is much rarer than the Prius in auctions. Maybe because people don't want to sell them after buying, have fallen in love with Honda's?

Now a brand new car is also less than 3.5 years old, isn't it? And as there isn't a way to buy brand new other than from agents and cuz many SL people calling Jap recons as brand new is wrong, yes you'd get 39.5% of the CIF as tax for the Civic and 53% for the Prius, the most common models which would be imported. But do the agents offer them at all to worry about brand new taxes??

Yes so in that sense and repairability, the Civic Hybrid has the upper hand being a normal car and engine with a different flywheel, should any problems occur in these new cars and garage people will learn that quickly as it's very similar to the FD1. You're welcome!

Your suggestion is valid for the Civic Hybrid but not for the Prius at this stage, as the transmission is also replaced by a motor which would end up the car with no drivetrain if both motors were removed. Also starting a Prius without the battery might prove difficult IMO due to the starter motor being the same as the transmission motor, requiring larger voltages not easy to supply with a common battery.

We had brand new cars for permits only, not otherwise, and those agents are a greedy lot most of the time Trying to offer what they can rip off from most, and not making other options available, increasing CIF values given to customs for models they don't import, making the basic trim so basic that everything has to be paid for as an extra option. Ex: In the case of Sunny, even mud flaps and wheel covers on steel wheels were optional! Maybe you could get a better deal if you know someone high enough for that, and is willing to lower their profit

If he's buying, guess it'd be cheaper to buy a Belta from Japan directly through a friend or so after putting your specs on it and getting in imported here as a recon. Though I doubt many will do that, it'd be cheaper as it'd have been a registered in Japan car, also getting 90% of CIF for taxes, and not to mention softer suspension giving more comfort and slightly better quality of interior, at the expense of having no warranty and getting a Jap manual. You should be able to save a few lakhs in the process anyhow.

Yes those other taxes have been removed for hybrid vehicles, upto 1600cc. An extra 9.9% is added for 1600-2000cc hybrids, such as the Prius.