Iroshw

Hi, I'm using a Mitsubishi C62A (known as APS Model) 1991 year car. Currently I'm using 175/70/R13 tires to the front wheels and 185/70/R13 to back. I found 4 good tires, but the size is different - 165/80/R13 (rim size is fine). Please let me know whether I can install these tires to the car or not? As per the car manual the original tire size is 175/70/R13 Check this http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&car_id=15671 Please help since the tires I got from a friend are very good condition. What are the faults occur if I install them? Irosh

Thanks Guys, as you all said, I'm planning to replace the core. I found a great place at Panchikawatta (Alahakoonwatte) and they are reconditioned radiators as well. Planning to repair it on Saturday. Thanks a lot. Regards, Irosh

Guys, I drive my car every day (40-50 Kms) and there is a huge traffic as well (its Galle Road). The temp goes up a little and sometimes I see the extra water tank (linked to the Radiator) boiled too. The A/C is broken too but I use the fan. Also, I have a concern about other water lines, is there a way to check whether core water lines are working or not? Is it ok to use an air compressor to the radiator to open any blocks?

Hi, I have a Mitsubishi C62A 1991 car (ASP Model). There was a small leak in the radiator and tried to get help from a Mechanic to close it. But unfortunately thing got worse. The small leak has become a huge mess. The leak was in the mid of a water link (corner). So the mechanic guy tried to weld it but it opened 10 times bigger. Anyhow, he closed the huge hole by welding the area (totally messed the thing). I took the radiator home and checked, there was a big leak. I used a hard glue (mixing two tubes together - Gray and black and becomes hard when mixing, can't remember the name) close the entire place. It worked for a few days, but again can see a small leak from the same place (can't figure the exact place due to the large area with glue). Please let me know, is it ok if I close the relevant water line by closing it from both ends? I mean by removing the line? Will it affect the car heat? And, will it be a problem to apply a lot of glue and close the half of the water line? Even now I see sometimes the heat goes up (little) and the water also reducing when drive long way. I don't think that finding the leak and close since the place is a messed now. I can't go for a new CORE now and looking for a way to repair this and use. Please help. Regards, Irosh

Machan, do you think that the problem is with Vacuum Servo??? I mean sometimes my brake pedal is soft, at that time when I press it the car stopped suddenly. Sometimes the pedal is hard like a rock. At that time I can press slowly but difficult to press to the bottom, Also have noticed that sometimes the pedal is hard but in a few seconds (when driving) its get soft. My brake pads and liners are new. Also replace the thing that put/load Brake oil (don't' know the name ). And I'm always checking that there is no less brake oil.

And guys, any place to purchase Clutch plates, brake servo at Panchikawatte? I mean for cheap price + good quality?

I guess so. How much will be the entire thing? at Panchikawatte?

Well, mine its bit different but like the one fixed to the wall (black cylinder type).

Update: Yesterday i went to a Mechanic and he confirmed that my clutch plates are gone. That place is near my residence (hokandara). But I'm planning to take my car to Panchikawatte (Alahakoonwatte). I know a garage there and it will be easy for me to find parts (for a good price) as well. I have a few things to fix. 1. Clutch Plate issue 2. Brake light issue 3. Finding a lock for my front right side brake pads (the one who replaced brake pads lost the locks, now they are shaking when driving and can hear a big noise). 4. Changing Air Filter and engine oil (don't know whether I need to replace the oil filter since I replaced it 4 months ago). 5. Replace the fan belt (when starting the car there is a noise from the belt since it is very old now) And, there is another brake issue, I have replaced brake liners, pads and nipples. Sometimes my brake pedal is soft and sometimes it is very hard. I guess this is because of the one big Black thing can see from the engine bay (the own fixed to the wall). I really don't know the name of it and it is a big gadget (cylinder type) fixed to the brake oil cup and all the lines. What will be the cost to replace this thing? Irosh Guys, any idea the cost?

Guys, There is another issue. Any idea why my steering wheel is shaking? This happens when driving.

Means there is a possibility of fixing it without replacing? But yesterday I felt the smell badly since I had a long run (86km) in 80-100km/hr . This car is really powerful.

Machan, if the case is slipping clutch, do I need to replace the entire thing? Or is it possible to fix it without replacing? As mentioned, I have replaced my clutch plates 2 years ago. This really sucks when climbing a mountain with 2 more packs.

Machan, if the problem is with the clutch slipping (as many said even my friends at the office) what will be the cost to fix it? I mean approximately?

And, there is another issue. I have noticed that sometimes my brakelight is ON. When I press the brake pedal again it is getting off. I thought the bad smell (yesterday) due to this issue (binding).

Machan, I have replaced clutch plates 2 years ago. Is there anything related to the Choke?

Hi, I have Mitsubishi C62A 1991 year (ASP Model) car. It has 1500cc engine (4G15) and Carb type. I have noticed that my car doesn't speed up when accelerating. Yesterday I had a long run (85km) and there was a bad smell as well (smell like burning something). Problem is like this; * When starting there is no problem * On 1st and 2nd Gear, feel like car is not performing as earlier (but now it does more fuel, adjust the fuel/air mixture few days ago). * When need climbing, difficult and smell something like burning * Sometimes RPM goes up (moving from 2-4 very fast) but car is still at the same speed * But can increase the speed very slowly, when I'm on the 3rd Gear accelerate slowly to get the speed and when I'm at 3500RPM releasing the Accelerator to get down the RPM then changing the gear to 4th, again accelerating slowly and releasing the Accelerator to get down the RPM and changing to the top gear and accelerating slowly. If accelerate fast, RPM goes up but car is not speedup. I'm not sure that this happens due to the Tune up did by ME . I followed some instructions as per the Manual (4G15). Guys, is this related to the Clutch or Gear or Low Fuel pump to after the tuneup ? Irosh

Rumesh, I did an ECO test a few weeks ago and did Fail . I really need to get this thing fixed to take the 2nd test. And, as per this image there are three screws. But actually there are 4 screws including the main jet. Two as showed in the pic and there is another, can see it. I can remember one garage guy screwed it to set my idle RPM also the other two screws. But he didn't touch the main jet.

Rumesh: I think YES. Since as per the 4G15 manual Main Jet screw is sealed with a special cover, but mine is open and there is no sealed clip. Simply means someone has played with it and lost the seal. I bought this 2 years ago. Actually this car is really fast but the problem is Fuel efficiency. Also noticed that sometimes when I accelerate (say I'm in 4th Gear) I can see the RPM goes up but my car is still at the same speed. But when I accelerate slowly it start increasing the speed. And I feel that the car picking up has gone down too.

Thank you for the comment Rumesh. I actually used a Carb Cleaner few months ago. It actually worked but only for a few days. The problem is, it is difficult to touch and see the A/F screw since it is located at the back of the Carb close to the Car dash wall (from inside). Can touch the screw by hand but can't see it. And, do I need to screw it to rightside (clockwise) or ?

Hi guys, I have Mitsubishi C62A (known as ASP Model 1991). It has 4G15 engine and very powerful. But I'm not happy with the fuel efficiency of this car. And there is a black smoke as well. I just surf the new and found this car does 14km/1ltr (average). But my one is doing nearly 8km/1ltr (without AC). I was searching a solution through net since I'm really really tired with garages. I took my vehicle to a lot of place to solve this issue. But so far no good result. I found some instructions from a forum. This is about tuning the engine (4G15). Please check this and let me know your feedback since I'm going to try this on Saturday . 1) Warm up engine first(run 5-10 mins) 2)Shut off engine 3) Back out on the idle speed screw until it justt doesn't touch the throttle linkage. Then screw it in back about 11 turns (what this does mean actually?) 4) Screw in the A/F mixture screw until it stops(do not force tighten) 5) Screw out the A/F mixture screw 2 full turns 6) Start the damn car. It will run like its choking. As long as it's running it's ok. 7) Now turn in the A/F screw until engine dies. If this happens, turn out the A.F screw half turn at a time to bring it back. (try to start the car of coz) (what this does mean?) 8)Continue to turn out the A/F screw at half turns every 3 seconds. Engine will pick up speed. Continue to screw out until the point engine runs worse. When that happens screw back in half turn every 3 secs to the point engine runs smoothest.(do this by ear or watch engine vibration) (what this does mean?) 9) Now set the idle speed. Go on the air conditioner. Watch the tachometer. Turn in the idle speed screw until rpm is around 900 to 1000 rpm. 10) Now it's ready to rumble.. black smoke also caused by KO piston ring (what this does mean?).. check the compression Guys, please let me know your feedback, is it ok if I follow this to tune my engine? Only problem is my AC is not working. So will it be a problem for me to follow these steps since it says that I need AC to be on during the process. Please advise. Will this help to get a good fuel efficiency and stop black smoke?

Guys, I could fix the issue yesterday. The problem was with my heater. It was leaking water into the car through dashboard. The tech guy removed one line (out of In/Out Heater Water lines) and connected both lines from a single horse. Please advise whether this will affect my car performance or engine? Now the radiator water level is normal. But last night I have noticed that the heat meter has increased a bit. I was shocked and stopped the car for a while and check the radiator and the additional water bottle which support radiator to suck water when needed. But both were fine and I started driving. I really can't understand why the heat meter indicated like that. This problem occurs very recently. Any idea?

MKX: There was a leak inside of the Radiator also another on the bottom side of the Radiator. I went to a place near Panchikawatta (alahakoon watte) and they closed both places and fixed it. They asked me to replace the main Radiator Horse (the bigger one fixing to the engine from the bottom of the radiator) since the horse is very old (has become a rubber horse). But I didn't do it due to lack of time. I didn't use A/C for a long time since there is a huge leak. But I'm using the Fan when raining and directing the wind to the windscreen. Even yesterday I used the Fan and there was a huge mist after parking the car for few seconds. Same thing happend today in t he mroning as well. I really don't know t he relationship between Radiator water reduction, Mist on the windscreen and water leak.

Hi, I have a Mitsubishi Lancer C62A (1991 - ASP Model). I have noticed that the water in the radiator is getting down all the time also there is a mist on the windscreen from inside. I also have noticed that there some water inside of the car floor (front left side). Recently there was a leak in the radiator and fixed it. My AC is also not working due to a leak. I need an advice to get rid of this issue.

Mitsubishi Lancer C62A (knows as ASP Model) - Year 1991 1500cc Engine: 4G15

Dear Sylvi, Thank you for the comment/post. I bought a small quantity of this liquid and added to my fuel tank. And I had run (about 20Kms) but didn't see any good result. I'm planning to go to Kalutara on this Saturday and will let you know the feedback. Sylvi, I saw this electonic item. It is made in India but as per them the liquid is importing from Australia. That system is connecting to the Manipol system to spray when accelerate. He said that they can fix it for 4900 rupees with a bottle of liquid. I'm not a tech guy and don't know how this system works. Guys, my car is really powerful and I know some owners drives the same car/model for 12-13kms per liter. Sadly I can't reach even 9km/1ltr and with a lot of black somke. Again, as said I'm not a tech guy and there is a possibility of me to use whatever availalbe in the market to sort my car issue (even though they are to waste my money and time) and remember that I'm not the only one who is suffering. Irosh