LancerL

When I start the car in the morning, most of the times there is a hum (Like two rubbers fastly rubbing together) sound coming in the idle warming up process from the engine for a bout 20-30 seconds and gradually disappear. As observed this comes from the mid/bottom of the engine. If I press the Clutch while sound, it goes off immediately and if release the clutch it comes back (Within this 20-30 seconds, it doesn't matter how many times I pressed/released, it will be the same behavior) No other issue or abnormal sounds in the driving in all gears, but if I run about 10-12 Kms continuously and parked in idle to open the gate or traffic lights. Sometimes I hear a metal rattling noise from the engine compartment which I could not identify where it comes from. This is more noisy with A/C compressor running with high idle. For this also it's the same story with clutch Goes away when paddle pressed and comes back when released. I'm totally confused on what to do as I could not diagnosed where it is coming from and is there a connection between morning noise and this random metal rattling when engine is hot. Car is Toyota AE110 Petrol Manual. Experts please help.

Engine miss and petrol smell issue has been solved by finding a vacuum leak on a injector Oring. You can get the full update of the solution by below link. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17113-engine-miss-petrol-smell-in-cold-start/page-2#entry288019 Thanks a lot for the support.

Hi all, sorry for the long silence... At last I found which was causing above miss in cold start and the petrol smell You might remember that I did a DIY fuel injector cleaning sometime back? One thing I found while I was re-fixing the injectors to the inlet manifold is that one or two Orings which seals injector to the inlet manifold was loosen. Since that was a afternoon and I was tired with cleaning, I did not bothered to visit any auto part shop to replace those. But with further reading of the forum for similar incidents faced by other members, I got a clue that this might due to sucking excess air from the loosen Orings to the particular cylinder or two which cause a lean mixture. So the oxygen sensor which detects it, signal injectors to flow more fuel as it thinks the mixture is lean, when mixture is too rich due to above, it will cause an imbalance which we called it as an Engine Miss Fire and smelled un-burned petrol from the tail pipe. So that coming weekend I again removed injectors and taken out all inlet manifold side Orings and took it to a Auto part shop, cost for four Orings was just Rs. 85/- so I brought another set for further use. Replaced all four Orings carefully, cleaned manifold holes with throttle body cleaner and a paper tissue and reinstalled injectors back to the manifold. Disconnected positive battery terminal for a while to reset ECU and reconnected and start the engine and let it to worm up and had a decent drive about 15mins with A/C off. Its almost nearly two months by now to the job and I have never got this miss and petrol smell again. So my final conclusion was that this was due to one or more vacuum leaking Oring from inlet manifold. Project was so interesting although it took lot of time but the satisfaction I got out of this cannot me measured by money. But if I took this to a Garage for the same, my total bill would exceed Rs. 10,000/- for sure including a tuneup, replacement of Plugs, Fuel filter, Air filter and etc... Thanks a lot for all of you who has given advises and directions to get this success.

No Davy, it is the Fluid tank I was referring. Attached a similar one for better understanding.

Went to garage last weekend and found a leak from the same place. This time they took it to a Lathe shop and fixed two Teflon bushes on it to fix the gap. Yes that was too tight and no leaks found. I was so happy and came, but my happiness was temporally. Yesterday I found that it start leaking again After spending about 15mins I found the root cause, You remember I told that Master pump replaced sometime back, but the tank was not replaced and used the same one. Now the issue is that old tank is little lengthy than new Master pump and when Master pump tighten up with two nuts to the booster body, it tension the tank and pulled up little bit, which caused the leak. As I planned I have three solutions for this. 1. Replace the tank with a new small one with same drain hole gap. 2. Put some washers and extend the gap between booster and Master pump (But brake paddle will go down) 3. Cut the tank to two pieces from Booster side and remove about 2mm plastic layer in between and refit by a good adhesive or something like plastic welding (I'm not sure about the possibility of this) Please advice the best solution I can workout. This is a real headache for me now and have spend a lot on this too.

Thanks for the input guys. I doubt the rubber Oring will react with brake fluid and melt off with time? or generally rubber rings are brake fluid resistant? Also any place to buy Rumesh mentioned type rubber rings in Mount Lavinia, Rathmalana area?

I have a brake fluid leak between reservoir tank and master cylinder due to a tiny gap. Need advice for a best brake fluid resistant adhesive in the market which dries quickly and can bond plastic and metal. Disclaimer: This is related to a already discussed and closed previous thread on break fluid leak http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17434-brake-fluid-refill-interval/#entry287142

Found the issue! There is a tiny leak between the master cylinder and plastic reservoir it seems. Yesterday engine was damn hot and couldn’t touch that area, but today I touch under the master cylinder and found that there was some fluid. Last time also I experienced the same issue soon after replacing the master cylinder and the reason was that two plastic nozzles of reservoir are not tight enough with master cylinder holes. Ultimately they brought two screw type nylon washers from a lath shop, which filled the gap and fixed. Looks like same place start leaking. Is nylon melt down for brake fluid? If that is the case, what's the best adhesive to use which doesn’t react for brake fluid? Anyway I will be opening a new thread to get some advice on brake fluid resistant adhesive as the topic moved in to a different direction. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17436-brake-fluid-resistant-adhesive/ Thank you all for the prompt support!

Master pump itself has replaced at the time of flushing brake fluid due to excess wear of one side of the cylinder so the chance of it will be minimal. Observed no outside leaks. I was thinking it have evaporated as it is very thin liquid compared to engine oil and the heat of the engine bay. Also absorb water in the air. Planing to take it to the garage to check brake pads and washers again. Will keep posted. Thanks

Ya I'm sure I was observing them while checking.

I'm so sorry if this is a re posting but I could not find any solution by searching on forum. Yesterday night I found that my check brake light has suddenly pops and goes off in the dashboard time to time while I was driving. When I got back home I checked the brake fluid level and found that it has gone to the Min mark of the reservoir (The gap between Max-Min is about less than an inch) But as a total tank capacity the lost amount is also less than 1/4 of the full tank capacity. I did a full brake fluid flush with B*G Dot4 8months back with brake washers replacement and filled up to the Max level after job done which is 100% sure. Also did a washer leak check about a month back at the service station and there was no leaks found. Will this could be due to gradual evaporation through 8 months of not refilling or could be due to a minor leak? If it is a leak there should be air sucked inside and the paddle should be spongy? I don't feel any strange in paddling and the braking power of the car. Please help.

Try giving a ECU reset by disconnecting positive battery terminal (You may need to reprogram your audio setup) for about 1 hour and reconnect it, start and let the car to run on idle for about 15mins. Make sure A/C and other electronics are not running. After 15mins take a decent and calm drive about 15-20mins as this will help ECU to relearn new values from all sensors after tuneup (Better keep audio and A/C off until the you finish the drive). This is something which should be done after every tuneup but unfortunately most of the places don't do this Hope this will might solve your issue, if not visit someone who is specialized in engine tuning and not a place who only knows to was and vacuum cars.

Check your inner and outer tie rods, could be due to one them. This happend after tyre replacement or shok replacement? or even before?

VVTi is correct. Didn't you show this to a mechanic before purchase? If so you will be more aware what you are buying in advance and could be budgeted accordingly.

Hi aps Your miss also comes in first start and goes away in few seconds or it keeps on missing even when engine running hot? Also did you get fuel smell from the tail pipe?

Didn't clean it earlier.. But not sure about the previous owener. So could be the first time as there were lots of deposit on it.

Yah 100% agreed with you.. BTW nice pic

Thanks for the valuable inputs! I started my DIY project yesterday morning as below. You can see the pictures with steps as it could help somebody to save money. Things Used: B*G Throttle body and air intake cleaner (I already brought this sometime back to clean throttle body) About 1Ft transparent rubber horse. Metal Cable tie. 5 inch metal binding string. Rubber band Glass bowl. De-Rust spray cane (this also I brought earlier for a different task) First I removed two screws holding the fuel rail from the intake manifold and taken the manifold out with injectors. Then I have taken out injectors one by one from fuel rail safely. Injector body were so dirty with all the dust and oil, also it’s spraying nozzle too had some carbon deposits (You can see this on the picture) I took all four and cleaned the body with De-Rust spray, I done this by sealing both ends of the injector by fingers to avoid chemical getting inside. While the body cleaned and drying, I expanded one end of the rubber hose by heating it with a candle flame gently to the correct size of the injector neck. Then I twisted a rubber band to the spray nozzle of the B*G cane to fix the gap between the hose and tighten up with a metal binding string. For the electric supply, first I tried with a 4.2V 0.5A (My torch Charger) power supply and that was not capable of making a noise least. While rotating around I found my Dialog TV power supply seen in the picture with 12v 1.5A which was decent enough to make the injector works. Once everything in place I started fixing one injector at a time and doing reverse flushing to clear out any dirt in the inside filter. Thereafter forward flushing has started as the same way and observed the spray pattern and any leakages, the pattern was good and no abnormality found. (I could not take any photos of this as I couldn’t hold the camera since my both hands were engaged) After all I cleaned all four with a dry towel and let dry further. Cleaned the fuel rail and intake manifold holes with a dry tissue to remove any deposits and fixed all four back to the rail and then to the manifold and tighten with two bolts. Checked couple of times for any loosed parts by shaking the fuel rail and injectors and found no issue. Turned the key to the ignition mood let the pump to pressurize the rail with fuel and checked against any leaks. Cranked engine for couple of times to start and it got started without a big hesitation. Let engine to run 3-5 mins and observed and leakages, revved the engine about up to 5,000 RPM couple of times and checked any abnormalities or leaks. Disconnected positive terminal of the battery for about 3hours to flush ECU memory and reconnected. Started the engine and let it to run on idle till operating temperature, for ECU to re-learn new fuel patterns. Taken a test drive for about 2KMs for further ECU learning and find any post issues. Everything was in order and the car was perfectly smoother than ever, including pickup and idle rhythm. But one issue I had been not solved with this it seems as the random engine miss and fuel smell I get on cold start is still there. When I started it today morning in cold weather I got that back again and disappeared in a while.

I’m planing to clean my Petrol injectors tomorrow and think of doing it as below on Youtube. Has anyone here done this before? What is the recommended voltage to be given as pulse? I guess connecting 12V 45A car battery will not be recommended! What would be the Syringe size that could fix in to the injector neck? Does reverse cleaning required to take out any dirt clogged on inside injector filter? Thanks

Thanks for all the ideas and comments. I will try K&N rather Cone.

Is there a significant enhancement in fuel economy by replacing existing paper based air filter with Cone Air filter (Washable and reuse) in a regular car? I have seen some people using this on their cars.

I drove a Toyota Axio hybrid recently and there was a light tint on it's front windshield. I guess that was a factory done one. Does anyone knows a good place to get a similar type of one in my front windshield?

You mean by RPM hits and car not moving enough? If that is not the case, check your air filter and Spark plugs. Better go for a tuneup if above didn't work for you.

Stick to the same color and brand if no issues with what you have. If switching, recommended to go for a complete flush (Without detergents) and refill it with new brand. Always use a reputed brand.