LancerL

If anyone can guide me how to upload pictures to forum or suggest me a better file sharing site I'm ready to share…

Dear Members, As I posted on my previous post, I removed the Carb again and cleaned all Glue I applied last time, it was not easy to remove those hence it fixed hardly to the body. After getting troubled nearly one hour I was able to clear all the glue out of hole without damaging to Carb body. Then I fixed pump to Carb body and connected both lines together with a small tube to avoid leaking fuel to outside (seen on picture). Also I connected that secondary line coming from main fuel pump directly to the return line to tank with a metal tube (Earlier it was through pump body which caused leaking). Fixed everything together and mount Carb to intake manifold. Start engine and let it to run few minutes and examined for leakages. Given couple of quick throttles and observed that the pump is working well and injecting extra fuel to intake on demand. It was around 6.30 and some of late taken pictures are in low light and my apology for that. Fixed everything back including air filter and let engine to run nearly 5min and start tuning it. This time I got better air/fuel mixer and it tuned well and start dropping water from silencer!!!!! Driven couple of trail runs and acceleration and pickup was excellent and didn’t experience that engine stall issue on quick acceleration. It was pleasure to me that I could this entire job my self without going to a single garage. Of cause the time taken from the day beginning to the completion date was a long period with all the trails and errors, but it has given me a very good experience and self satisfaction where you cannot value on money. I tried many times to upload image to forum and coulden't do it, please find below URL for project pictures. http://imageshack.us/g/1/9876665/ Thanks for all the support guidance given by everyone to get this project success!!!!!!

Dear Sylvi, This “secondary manual” pump has fixed on to the body near bottom of the chamber. Will drop you a P/M regarding your request. Thanks, LancerL

Thanks Davy, Sure will take some Pics and share with you'll

Thanks Don..

Dear Members, Sorry for the late update, hence I was too busy with last couple of weeks. I found the problem!!! As I mentioned on my last post I’ve slowly studied the mechanism of the Carb and the internal lines going here and there, you’ll might remember that I’ve mentioned a hole on my previous post which is sucking out fuel from bottom of the floating chamber. Actually what that hole really does is to supply fuel to “secondary manual” pump based on Carb body to spray out fuel in to intake manifold for quick pickup when sudden paddling the accelerator. According to the design of this, the secondary fuel line coming from fuel pump and return line going to tank both are inter connecting through the body of this. (I don’t know why the hell this Japanese has put this on such a way) What happen is due to corrosion or some odd reason, this body of the “secondary manual” pump based on Carb has wear off and the pump is leaking fuel on to the line back to tank. So once the engine stops it sucks out entire thing including fuel on floating chamber. Initially what I’ve done was to apply some glue and closed that hole on the floating chamber to stop leaking fuel through the pump. I cleaned everything with kerosene and fixed properly. I was half away successful, engine started without any issues and I’ve tuned it well. But due to unavailability of the secondary pump on Carb, I cannot quickly pickup, engine gets stall when I push the pedal fast. Other than that everything is alright. It just starts in one turn after keep stop for even two or more days. I’m planning to takeoff the Carb again and burnout glue on hole. Then take off of both secondary fuel line and return line from Car body and apply alternative way of interconnecting both. Will update the status soon after I’ve done. Thanks for all the support guidance given by everyone in many ways. Cheers!!!! LancerL

Can please be sepcific about what your looking for???

+1 ..

Dear Don, Thank you for your reply, as I observed this return line from Carb to Tank is not going through a petrol filter, it is directly connected to the metal line which driven back to tank. So then how this fuel filter stop returning that in to tank. Please help. Thanks LancerL

Dear Davy, Thank you for your reply. Their was no fuel filter when I brough the car. Thanks, LancerL

Dear Friends, After a busy week I was able to attend to my carburetor issue. After several diagnoses I found that there are three lines connecting to carburetor relating to fuel supply. Primary fuel supply from pump. Secondary fuel supply from pump. Return line from Carb to Tank. Primary fuel supply from pump has connected to top of the Carb and Secondary fuel supply from pump and Return line from Carb to Tank has connected together at right back corner of the Carb. Also there is a float level visibility glass fixed on to the carb body where I can see the float level. Once I start the engine, float fills with fuel and running engine without any issue, but as soon as I stop it I’ve seen the fuel level goes down slowly. After playing with fuel lines few minutes and taking off the carburetor top cover I found that there is a hole on bottom of the floating chamber which internally connected to return line from Carb to Tank. When engine stops, the return line giving a considerable vacuum due to gravity, where it sucks out remaining fuel from floating chamber back to tank and theirs no enough fuel remaining to start on next time. So I have to crank engine few times to fill it with fuel. I’ve taken off the entire carb from car to inspect and sort out this matter and planning to do little by little on working days nights. Please share your knowledge on this and help me to identify the problem. Thanks in advance. LancerL

Dear Sylvi/The Don, Thanks for your valuable inputs. Sylvi, if the carb is perfect, do you think the amount remain on carb is enough to run engine at lease 4-5 sec till it pumps fuel from tank? What is your observation on this? Ok, let’s assume that the carb is defected! But still can the fuel pump let fuel to return back to the tank once the engine stops? Special thank to Mr. Sylvi for offering me a free consultation on his work shop!!! Really appreciate your kind support. LancerL

Dear Sylvi, I’ve tuned my carb in several times and it runs smoothly and does fuel nearly 12Kmpl on long run in 4th gear. But spark plugs say its burning petrol more, coz there is a black carbon layer has deposited on the terminals. So I suspect that the previous owner has put large jets for better pickup where it will burn more fuel even its well tuned... That’s why I’m planning to take it off and inspect the jet size. LancerL

Dear Scooter, Thanks for the given advices and URL. What is available on the website are motorbike carbs and nothing related to cars. Anyway will try. LancerL

Guys, any ideas please???

Dear Sylvi, Yes, I meant was to fix a non return valve. You’re correct. Yesterday I fixed a transparent extension tube to the fuel line and start the engine. I observed that after few cranks only the fuel reached Carb and as soon as fuel enters engine started! When I stopped the engine it went back to the tank without remaining on the tube. I couldn’t check the pressure of the fuel pump. Anyway if it is giving a bad pressure, fixing it in between tank and the pump also will solve the matter? Am I correct? Thanks LancerL

Dear Sylvi, Thanks for your valuable advice, BTW can I fix a check valve separately to the fuel line between pump and Carb instead of replacing the fuel pump, hence my issue is returning fuel back to tank when engine stop. Thanks

Friends, anyone have a diagram/Manual of Mitsubishi Orient Carburetor manufactured by "Mikuni Corporation" which is coming for most of Lancers like Lancer Box, C12, Fury. I’m planning to replace jets on it in next weekend. Please help me. Thanks.

Dear Members, as I feel my fuel pump has gone bad hence I need to crank few turns of engine to start after parking it few hours. My engine is Mitsubishi Orient 4G12 and has mechanical pump. Kindly advice me on following areas. Possibility of repairing the current one. Fixing a new mechanical pump or electric one which one is best. Does electrical pump comes with a stop valve? Rough cost for the project. Thanks in advance.

Hahahaha, finally got the thing done... The beauties part is that I’ve done it by my self!!!!! What I’ve done initially. Replaced all 4 spark plugs with some used but good ones which was with me. Did a full carb tune up by my self with balancing idle fuel screw. Still it was giving the same issue But I had a solid feeling that this can be due to electrical issue. Lastly I found that my distributor has turned to a one corner and can be due to that. Surfed internet and autolanka forum lot and found that most people have talked about vehicle knocking due to improper distributor alignment! Actually it was not an easy thing, the correct way of doing this is using a tool called timing light. But what I’ve done was running several trails on our home lane while stopping and adjusting distributor to both sides. Finally I got the middle point where engine was sooth and running at low RPM on 2nd gear without any knockings… Done a plug cleanup again and tuned engine little more. Actually it was very interesting project which I enjoyed my self a lot, as I feel we cannot get this self satisfaction from anything else. Thank you very much for all the members who advised me in many ways with their experiences and thanks for autolanka to maintaining such a forum like this. Cheers!!! LancerL

Done, pls ignore my negative Reputation, hence I it was a mistake by me while putting positive reputation.

Sorry for the late reply, I’ve taken it to the garage last weekend. After the trail run by the mechanic, he said that theirs no problem with the mounts but there is a current break from coil to plugs!!!! Ultimately he removed all 4 plugs, cleaned, fixed and asked me for a trail run… yah! It was quit smooth and that knocking and jumping was no more there with the 2nd gear too, but dashboard vibration was there and he said that is due to loosen bolts and will come another day to fix it, so I came home happily. After that I couldn’t start or drive because I’m not coming to work by car. The nice part is that when I drive it again on the yesterday night to go elsewhere it again start knocking and jumping as happened before L but after running about 5km it was quite ok and when I’m coming back to home it was like 90% ok. Guys, what can be the problem? Please share your advice. Thanks LancerL

Thanks Don, got a clear idea about the situation.. will update what happen soon after I solve this matter. Keep in touch. LancerL

Dear Don, Thanks for your valued advice, I’m planning to inspect the fuel system and ignition system by this weekend. Will update the forum with the results. I think its burning oil… a black smoke is coming when I take off the oil level rod from the sump while engine running. Can you kindly tell me whither the car can knock and start jump due to warped pressure plate or a flywheel on a slow speed as I explained on my last post? Thanks again LancerL

Guys any idea on this please???????