Fixzit

I recently bought a 2007 Nissan Navara with YD-25TDDi 2.5L Turbo Engine which also has a DPF ( Diesel Particulate Filter). When I did my 1st service I used Delo Gold engine oil in it with the following standards "API CH4/SL, CG-4, CF-4,CF,CD. Today when i was reading an article I saw that I must use an engine oil with CJ-4 Standard or else I will have problems with my DPF later on. I'm using Super Diesel on mine because in my User Manual, Nissan highly recommend a Diesel with low Sulphur and 50+ Cetane level. As I found out Normal Diesel is 46 Cetane and 0.5 Slphur where Super is 53 Cetane and 0.03 in Sulphur. Apparently The new API CJ-4 oils are made for high-performance diesel engines designed to meet 2007 on-highway exhaust emission standards. API CJ-4 oils exceed previous performance requirements and are specifically designed to protect emission control systems, help comply with emission standards, reduce engine wear, and control piston deposits and oil consumption. Does anyone knows a Diesel engine oil which meets the CJ-4 Standard in Sri Lanka?

Turbo charges get extremal hot when running. After a period of driving when a turbocharger has been working hard, it is important to let the engine run at idle speed for a period of time, allowing the compressor assembly to cool from the lower gas temperatures in both the exhaust and intake tracts. At the same time the lubricating oil from the engine is able to circulate properly so the turbine won't burn the lubricating oil that would otherwise be trapped within the charger with the turbine rotating at high speed. With regard to modern automotive turbochargers, the need for a turbo timer can be eliminated by simply ensuring the car does not produce any 'boost' (during driving) for several minutes prior to the ignition being shut off. Most turbo timers are based on digital electronics. (Wikipedia)

I have a Ti Carina 212 (Auto) and I had a similar problem. At cold start, everything works fine because my idle rpm is somewhere between 1000-1200rpm, but when the engine is at normal running tempreture and the AC is on, Idle speed goes below 700rpm and the car starts to vibrate. I figured that this is due to my AC idle-up mechanism not working well. Found out that the Idle adjuster is inside the throttle body. when I opened it up, it was rusted and blocked. Cleaned it up and also the throttle body with a carb cleaner, replaced the plugs as well and everything works just fine

R-12 is banned in some countries in the world and the manufacturing will stop as well. This is due to the environmental issues mainly such as Ozone layer depletion. R-134 is the retrofitting gas or the substitute for R12, but Does not mean you can straight away release the R12 and recharge with R134a. There is a proper retrofitting procedure. It's very important to flush and clean the whole system and remove any old oil in the system. You can still buy R12 in SL and from what I heard a tank will cost about 8500 Rs which is some what less than before. I'm not 100% sure about the prices because I work overseas. If for any reason I would do a top up, I would always try to use the same gas what you have in the system, or else follow the correct procedure to retrofit. Mixing gasses and oil types could easily cause your problem, given that you had R12 in your system, but what usually happens is because R12 used to be more expensive, someone who has done a repair on your car previously has already changed your system in to 134a and not have removed your sticker. Considering the manufactured year of your car, I'm sure there have been many major repairs on your system before. Maybe your technician figured out its 134 inside your system. Regardless of the gas you had in your system, if there was a considerable pressure drop in your system, your technician shouldn't have topped up gas without fixing the leak on the first place unless you ask him to do so for any reason (Such as you were in a hurry or you just wanna sell your car and you only need the AC for few days or you want to try your luck those are the general reasons which we hear ). I myself would personally explain the customer the whole issue and follow his instruction because after all It's his car and he's paying. A/C is a closed system and there is no loss of Gas due to long term use. Only reason to loose gas is a leak. I'm glad you got your leak fixed.

It's very easy for a experienced and qualified technician to detect whether there is a shortage of gas in the system, and as i explained you before, the only reason there could be a shortage of refrigerant is a leak unless it has been under charged before, but I'm guessing that's not the case here because your AC was working fine before right? Most of the times It's your evaporator which causes the leak because that is the part which is has the least thickness of the metal and collect lots of dust and dirt which will eventually turn into mud and cause the aluminium to oxide and cause leaks. You might not find the leak in the system even when it's running with less performance because some leaks will only leak gas up to a curtain pressure and then stops. So what I would do is recover the remaining gas in the system, pressurise the system with dry-nitrogen for a pressure maybe 20 - 30% extra than the normal running pressure of the system and check for any pressure drops. This will only tell me whether there is a leak somewhere or not. If the leak is not obvious and outside, I would take all the major components out and pressure test them individually until I find the leak. I do not think he has over charged your system because you system will also cuts off if there is too much pressure inside as a safety precaution to save your compressor and also the other components which will blow out due to excessive pressure. On the other hand, Insufficient refrigerant in the system will cause poor cooling and so does excess gas. If you had too much gas in the system, you will not get proper cooling even at the time you re gassed the system. You lost your gas pressure twice now. I'm pretty sure there is a leak somewhere. As you said, take it to a good technician and get it checked. If you are lucky, It'll be a minor leak which could be fixed with just a small weld, but if your evaporator or another component doesn't looks so good, replace it. Don't risk loosing gas again because the you'll end up spending more money for gas again + Labour + Components again. Get it repaired well and try not to use fresh air. That's the no.1 killer of evaporators because it brings in dust and clogs up the Evap and cause it to fail. One of my fellow technician used to ask me to turn off the AC and run the blower for a 1-2mins before I stop my car to blow off any moisture left inside my Evap which helps to minimise the build up of rust in my Evap. Try that trick if you like

210 Km/h on Hume Hwy from Melbourne to Sydney, Holden Berlina 3.8L V6. My speedometer was showing 220 and that's the end of the guage, but my GPS was saying i was only doing 210. There was plenty of pedal left tho. Got scared to loose my licence and get my car impounded

Try one of those Japanese used Kenwood or a Sony Double din player if you like. They are pretty cheap compared with new ones and very good in quality. I bought a Kenwood one for my Toyota Carina and it came with a original Toyota socket already plugged. Didn't had to cut or connect any wires, just plug it straight to the socket which was fixed on to my old CD player and it works just fine. Pretty good in quality too and it came with a Subwoffer out as well so I hooked up a Sub with a Kenwood Amp for some extra Bass. It also has a 10 band EQ with LPF and HPF controls + DSP (Digital Sound Processor) so that I can balance my speakers quite well. I replace my rear speakers in 6" Pioneer speakers though. You should be able to find a good player from any Japanese used car parts place.

Noise from the compressor could be due to many reasons. It could be the belt, clutch assembly, bearings inside the compressor, valve plates or just worn off pistons. It's really hard to explain what could be the issue why you get poor performance in cooling at Idle without putting a gauge set to your system. I could be wrong but I'm assuming your compressor is running under compression because you have mentioned about the noise its making. If that's the case, Re-gassing and adding some oil to the system will not fix your problem. You can detect which gas you have inside your system just by getting the standing pressure of the system while its switched off and ambient tempreture at that very moment, comparing it with the Pressure tempreture chart of 134a n 12.... You cannot mix 134 n 12 or the oil used in both gasses, It will block your system eventually and cause big problems. Your R12 system could be retrofitted into 134a. In that case you can use 134a without any problems. Other reasons why your system doesn't work properly in Idle could be.. wrong amount of Refrigerant in your system, Poor performance of your condenser and fan....your Idle adjuster does not work properly or your engine is running at a lower RPM than recommended at Idle.

I had to regas AC of my FB13 since it wasn't cool enough, and re-oiled the compresser too. After this the AC was working fairly OK for a week. When I started the car last weekend after a week the AC wasn't working at all. Symptoms: * The belt that drives the compressor works all the time, not just when the AC is switched on. * Condenser fan doesn't work when AC is switched on. * Radiator fan won't turn on when AC is switched on. * RPM won't increase when the AC is switched on. only the blower and heater works at the moment, what could cause to happen this after the regassing ? UPDATE: Took the car to the AC joint again and guess what ? All the gas had been leaked, according to the AC baas, the low gas pressure cuts off the AC circuitry hence the above symptoms, which I'm not quite sure about. We detected the leak and it's from the compressor itself, and it's leaking rapidly and we can hear the air noise as well. Baas recommends me replacing a compressor, now how much would a compressor usually be ? used one probably ? Re- Gassing is not a solution to fix your Air-conditioning, in fact it's Illegal in some countries in the world due to environmental issues. Your car will not drop it's standing gas pressure or loose any gas due to long use or any other reason except for a leak. You might fix the problem by re gassing but I can guarantee that It will only be temporary depending on the size of the leak. If it's very small It might hold for a considerable duration of time before it drops again. So what your technician did was wrong in the first place unless he has explained you what could happen and also the money which you ll be spending to re gas will be a waste sooner or later As for your symptoms, He was right. There is a pressure sensor in the system to detect the standing and running pressures which would cuts off the electrical supply to compressor clutch and fans if there is not enough gas in the system to run. Usually its on top of the filter dryer and close to the condenser. You can pin point whether its the pressure sensor which cuts off the supply by taking out the electrical socket on top of it and connecting the 2 leads which should run your system. I would ask you not to let your system run for more than few seconds this way because by doing so you can damage few components of the system. This is purely for diagnostic purpose. Next time when your AC doesn't work or not cooling enough, take it to a qualified technician and get it checked. If its down on gas pressure, Fix the leak before recharging.