CAR_MADNESS

touch the windscreen with hand you should be able to feel rough paint if it exists. if it exists use some steel wool (Available in all leading supermarkets) where u can find all those dish wash sponges , but please use grade only "0000" the least rough - "this doesn't scratch the windscreen" while u r polishing with that use some isopropyl alcohol on it. This will help to remove any contaminants After this water will blur the screen (Wets the entire windscreen) Then apply famous glass treatment as kmeeg mentioned. When you apply this glass treatment first make sure windscreen is clean and dry (if not dry situation will get worsen, and wiper starts jump all over the windscreen) Leave the glass treatment to dry for about 5-10 min, U will see a foggy residue. Please see if foggy residue appeared uniformly if not again wiper will start jump and make sounds again ? Clean the residue with isopropyl alcohol or any glass treatment. Do not use wipers without cleaning the residue properly On side note- make sure isopropyl alcohol doesn't spill or touch black plastic trims same for famous glass treatment. use sufficient amount glass treatment when applying... had bad experience ?

Jonway A380 with Manual transmission had the same issue with low pulling power, Definitely need to change the gear to 1st. on 2nd pulling was bit weak though it has F5M41 gear box. Didn't come into mind to about the ECU at all. even though ECU was made by Bosch (Made in China).

Noup...Only trouble free part in vehicle was engine and gearbox. tough Accelerating on a steep hill required shifting gear to 1st, Engine did give some vibration but couldn't figure if it were mounts or engine it self...

Hi guys....Its being some times since logged and posted on forum. But followed al the topics almost everyday Couldn't stay without commenting on this topic... I am not a owner neither going to be a owner for DFSK 580 , But lets say a Victim of a similar vehicle. So this might not be 100% relevant to this said vehicle. I have owned (not any more) a JONWAY A380 for a period of 4 years. (A copy of a RAV4- 2003-2006) model, Manual Gear(F5M41) , 4G18S Engine. Vehicle was purchased B/N from Agents (Softlogi*Auto**** ) At first when just brought the vehicle , it was a one of the superb vehicle for use (at least under the impression). Interior was leather, Acceleration was really good, Paint was shining was very happy with the vehicle, Fuel figures were also not so bad (10-11 kmpl city and 13kmpl outstation). All started with a passenger side seat belt warning light. It illuminates and warns despite no one is sitting , when checked closely it didn't have a sensor to detect if a passenger is sitting or not! Airbag warning light came about a week after...(Agents tried to correct this unlimited times) but even at the time of selling also error was not corrected Plastic started cracking and breaking after about 6 months of use. (Stereo cover, interior Handels, dashboard trim prices...etc). once you remove a plastic cover you can not fit it again as clips got broken. Plastic parts so much breakable no more different than tictac box plastic. Plastic wheel cover lost almost all the clips in a period of about 2 year use. Windscreen rubber beading was brittle and cracked! Black plastic trims on mirrors were scaling Under the impression that mechanical parts are freely available as Mitsubishi 5M41 , 4G18S gearbox and engine, but they were mismatching (Eg- Finding a clutch plate was a nightmare ! only agents help was remaining) Corrosion... nothing could stop it, Door edges, front collision bar and any sharp edge or where a paint chip In Summary had to rely on Agents for sourcing parts.Part prices were very expensive as agent had monopoly over spare parts. Some how managed to live with the help of agents for 4 years. But Thanks to technicians advice made up my mind to sell despite a loss of 2mil, as he claimed that no more spare parts will be imported as mother company is closed in china and yes not the company is totally closed ! even website ..... I cant say same will happen to DFSK, But Chinese are changing their models like people are changing cloths and spare part bank is not maintained. I don't know if a agreement between agent for sourcing spare parts after model is discontinued is available or not ! In summary- Until Chinese will prove there after sales are reliable I would stay away from a Chinese

Zoom-Zoom , I had a similar problem. I also got the grinding noise when 1- Applying the breaks, and till car goes to still 2- Driving at a very slow speed after applying the breaks. The noise went off when the brack pads were removed and cleaned with a sand paper. But after another day or 2 (about after 50km) the sound again comes. Apparently the reason was (cheap break pads !) that had more metal pieces in its mixture. So as the bas said that they were hard and when metal metal pieces are on surface they make the grinding noise. So After changing the break pads it went off. The newly fit break pad with more copper fiber. (As said). Then another possible reason may be , you rear liners may need to be adjusted or replaced unless or otherwise they are self adjusting. Just check by lifting your hand - break it should make 4-7 clicking noise but no more.

The Don , Thank you very much for your valuable information.

tnx dude. Yes user maul is there. but it in Japanese

Guys, Thanks for sharing So far I did not let spray water or any chemicals to my engine surface even during the service. But there were issues bothering me 1- You need to clean the A/C cooler and Radiator But how to do this ? Please correct me if Do something wrong. I ask the cleaning guy to hold the presured air pepndicular to the Radiator and the cooler and send of the all the sutck dust and forign metrial. But I watch out so that the mesh is not bend at all. 2- During the last service ,when changed the oil filter. they did not connect a horse to oil filer's drain line and they just removed the oil filter spilling oil down the engine surface. Since I refused engine wash so there is oil on my engine surfce and it leacked down. In a such case How can we clean ? 3- But With mr previouse vehical, it was maintined by agents and they wash the engine with a some sort of a chimcal followed with bit presurized warm water. But they cover all the electical parts and sensors. can I do the same for my current vehical also ? How safe will this be ? 4- What about the sparying stuff similar to penetrating Oil ? 5- What can you say about the MARPA_CARB_CLEANER http://www.marpa.cn/products_ss/&productId=3caa5d48-ebe4-4055-97bd-7add5a5cd724&comp_stats=comp-FrontProducts_list01-004.html Not to spray all over the engine but only the spot ? I know it is not ment to be used to clean engine surfaces but it also says that safe on rubber and says it cleans grease, dirt , gum and carbon will this be safe?

Nilantha, Davy Thanks for sharing. But How would you clean the radiator and the AC cooler ? what about the hard reaching area's ? Some what presured air , Will it do the cleaning ?or you need to spary water/ or steam pependicular to the radiator and cooler ?

Sorry bro , Didn’t mean to mislead anyone , Honestly I haven’t performed “So called engine flush” so far in my life. I just wanted to sahre what I got 2 Know and heard. I guess got 2 be more responsible when sharing the info

Hand is up and Applogies

I did ATF change about 1 1/2 moth ago for my previous vehicle (Teriose) form agent The Dextron III was about Rs 3200 4L can. But They suggested to use T4 saying its a low viscosity than Dextron III and so and so. The price of T4 was Rs 4800 4L can.

Guy's this might not be a important topic but I would like to have your opinion. Is it ok to let wash the engine surface during the service ? As I heard It is not good to do so with water. How about steam ? Some spray something similar to penetrating oil is it ok ? or engine should be only dry cleaned ? your advise is highly appreciated.

Sorry guys I think I made a mistake, the confusion occurred coz I asked the mechanic (so called him self) where I saw they doing the Engine flushing for number of New Toyota Vitz and Axio's and above comments were made with courtesy to him . But After referring to google , It seems like there is more cons than advantages in engine flushing. But I am sure they didn't use engine surface dressing for flushing ...lol

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but flush method removes almost all of old oil whereas manual will leave abt 1.5 ltrs of old oil. Yes that is why I said that only if the oil is at very bad condition or changing the oil type you need a Flush. Let me explain what is flush means, During the fusing they use ATF (new) to clean out the gear box. Then they use about additional can of ATF during the flushing. While they add ATF form the other side they drain it off the sump nut while the engine is running on the vehical This is repetdly done untill the system is fully cleaned. The flush is much much more expensive than an oil change. And yes it is always preffred to use the manual drain so that all the dirt will go away under the gravity. Have you ever heard of Radiator Flushing ? itss similar to that

If you wan't a Toyota you can go with Toyota Rav 4 2004/2005. A pretty decent vehical and does about 8/9 km/l as I heard. I mean for 2L engine that's pretty fair. Not like Teriose or Rush. Try buying a Manul one so you feel it like a SUV.

Hi Kas123, So far I have used only few Japan vehicle and an Indian Swift. But Some of my colleges use hundai and Kia.While I purchased a Japan recon. Toyota , they have purchased Kia Forte and Hundai Elantra (Before tax increase) brand new. These vehicle have a much modern look with unmatching interior look with a Japanese. Now it is almost a year so far no trouble and they are satisfied as well. in addition to that with a 2 year warranty. But this is about the B/new Vehicles but some say that Korean vehicles do not last long. One such experience that the master pump of Hundai gets corroded while a Japanese one last long. - ( Form Experience in a Garage ) But this is not a judgment. But My opinion is you are not buying a vehicle so that your grandson also can use. Therefore I think better to look for the initial value, Warranty, after sale services , the facilities and the options you can have when you compare JDM vehicle with a Korean vehical of the same year and same budget . Plus Look for the fuel consumption as well.

@y3k Lets this correctly .... 1- Your Engine Rev till 5000rpm/min but no pick up. 2- Your 4WD button is blinking is it still or not blinking ? If not is it after your cleaning repair? If blinking when you re-engage in 4WD does is stop blinking? 3- Do you have any problem with Eco Mode as well ?

Hi mello555, There is no need to remove the oil pan unless there is any issue. There is a Auto gear Sump nut. By removing it they can drain the ATF. Was it a flush ? or a oil change? There is no as such flush method. I have n't heard of a ATF Filter so far. In a flush they clean the Auto gear System by adding constantly oil and draining it out untill it cleans your whole system. this needs to be done (simply) only if your exiting oil is at a very bad condition and can not be mixed with new one or in an Oil type change. Now in my case I had to flush because I Changed form Dexron III to T4 oil.

I guess you do have a problem with the one of switchs. It is called a super select solenoid/s. Cleaning a solenoid will not make a difference if it is blown. You have to find the blown one and replace it. Lets say if you have put the gear to 4H and if the solenoid is blown you can not change it back to 4X2WD it will reamain as 4H. So Back again when you will shift your gear liver to the 4H it will not show any error but if you will put to 2H, it will detect the error agin.

Hi, can you check the following 1- can you Still use 4WD ? 2- If you can , then try re-engaging 4WD (From 2H-4H) ND See it may stop blinking ? If so there might be an issue of the super select solenoids 3- Just check under your vehicle, gear box for any possible damaged wires Yes high amount of ATF oil is a problem. It will take abnormal time for oil to get heated and in auto gear there will no shift to higher gears unless oil has reached its working condition temperature. (and 2 inch is just too much) simultaneously check the condition of the oil. If it has changed color. and if you have done above 90k and did not change oil during your last 3 years then yes its time to flush the oil and refill the new.

True. Finding a 4WD Rush similar to finding a Toyota Axio/Corolla 4WD. Yes this is avilable. But it is very uncommon. http://www.tradecarv... axio/10782067/ (the easiest I could find)