harshansenadhir

Irrational to decide just based on the YOM and the age of the vehicle. It should be through a proper MOT system where the mechanical fitness of the vehicle is being checked. If that's the case, lot of english plate vehicles will not be eligible to enter the highway. Have seen quite a lot of bashed Corollas, Vios with non working air bags (ribbon in the steering column broken due to some cheap maka basses messed up during rack end repairs), non working ABS (some the indicator bulb too removed or operating by a timed-relay), quite a lot 121s with after market nylon bushes on rack ends.. the list goes on, so never ASSUME that the english numbered vehicle parked on your drive way can enter the highway just because it carries an english number plate. BTW, a friend had a GW-XXXX 504 and the car is still around, point to ponder.

This is not valid for J44 where pre-heating is manually done by turning the ignition key anti clock wise. OPs pre heating system must have modified with a timer relay. As ripper said get the plugs tested by taking them off or through a multi meter. Be careful when taking them off as the plugs in 4DR5 engine tend to break apart and fall into intake manifold.

Yeah Don no issue, My mechanic has Peugeot planet and lexia 3 which can only scan peugeot and Citroën afaik. His contact details are as follows if that helps Aruna Amarasinghe - Throve automobile engineering 773 841 315

oh really? didn't know that, thank you for enlighting me. Hold on a second, my previous car was french and I moved to another, selling that car within the course of one day ? now how that goes with your theory? genius ?

Check whether some wire disconnected under the driving seat

reminder letters and subsequent communication from the institution send to the guarantor/guarantors as well.

Fuel consumption does not vary depending on the model variations mentioned, but the engine capacity and transmission type. D9s equipped with 1800 L6A engine does little less than the 2.0l counterparts. D9, 2.0 manual does about 8kmpl in City and 14 ~ 15 kmpl in outstations ( a friend confirmed 15.8 after returning from a weekend run to Welimada, yesterday). D9, 2.0 Auto which I drive does about 6 kmpl in day-to-day traffic and does about 8 kmpl when I'm extremely light on the pedal. Went to Kataragama and returned with (4 adults and 3 kids and a heavy luggage) a 11 kmpl figure.

Probably he got this car FOC from manufacturer and he's getting paid everytime he goes out in it

do they stop each and every vehicle to see whether you're having a valid driving license in your possession? or a valid revenue license or insurance? this too will work the same way, if you don't wear it by the time they stop, you'll be busted.

New regulation says, vehicles given number plates with province code and DP specifically because new DP vehicles does not have a province code, this is to eliminate old english lettered number plates. What I don't like is, when others give a look at you "meh, he's wearing seat belts just to escape from the fine". C'mon we used to wear seat belts even for a short distance travel, long before this enforcement came.

In Pelawatta?

This is to stabilize cabin pressure/release excess pressure when all doors and shutters are closed. If some one had sealed this, esp in old cars which are tinkered by makabasses, you would feel a sudden pressure on your ear drums if the only opened door had slammed. Since this only works one way, no dust/outside air comes in, but rats do sometimes

Good if it had lasted 6 months. Generally these Teflon ones won't last long and makes rack little heavy (stiff steering wheel)

Keep all doors closed and open the rear left door and slam it while keeping an eye on these one way flaps. Then you would know the purpose of this.

if you can live with that small rutty sound, won't be a problem in the future, provided that it's not coming from rack ends or any other suspension parts than the rack itself in the middle. Another workaround for rack and pinion systems is when they wear out, the center point can be adjusted to either left or right as what wear out fast is the teeth which couples with the pinion. Not entirely sure whether this is possible with racks coupled with EPS motor.

all are assumptions based on the information made available by you, so I may be correct or wrong. Best if you can precisely isolate the sound to say it's from steering rack. However, most people I know of are living with this small rattle (if it's coming from EPS assisted rack) as either you have to replace the whole damn thing or re-install a hydraulic based PAS system which is not recommended.

might be a loosen bolt or some piece in the dash itself. If it's a car with EPS (motor driven power steering) this sound is obvious after using in rutty SL roads. Honda Fit/Aria, March K11 (cup holder model), Corolla 121 are some other vulnerable models for this issue as wearing out the rack/pinion gear and the motor assembly.

The ones I've installed were GAS cartridge type as oppose to oil simply coz of the durability of gas type believed to be high. The ride was little rigid due to that but handling got improved drastically. Yes, they last long as I've never had to bother with the ones I've installed about 3+ years back and they were in very good nick when I sold the car.

try to go with references and get hold of an old school guy who knows the old systems best. Some folks can't do a thing without a code reader these days. Call this fellow and check whether he's willing to take the job. Ananda - 714 170 726

depends on what has failed. If it's the two solenoid valves and a packing kit, it would cost about 30k. This can vary depending on the source of the parts and place of the work is being done anyway. Heard there are places charging in excess of 200k for a complete repair.

Yes, not engine number but the chassis number. http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/pages/login_hors_eu.jsp This is also available for citroens. It gives the full spec of the car and engine number, gearbox serial number went into assemblying the same car. Plus it gives the exact part code (even if superceded) and it's guaranteed the item code matches the vehicle with the chassis number if the configuration has not changed such as changing the engine or gearbox etc. No time wasting with the removed busted part on your hand from shop to shop in watte when you know the part code precisely. Now Jap boys, beat this if possible

front two monroe shocks each 8200/- from L.N.D Silva motors rear gabriel (not exactly sure this brand name) shocks each 7400/- from imperial. Could've bought KYB for rear far lesser than that. At that time the genuine was priced at 15,000/- each from Ideal Automotive. This was done in October, 2007. Shocks were in perfect condition even when I sold the car this year.

your Alfa 156 aint the whole universe

Cannot comment abuot advertisements of the main site. Yes, there is a place close to Miriswatte junction along 255 bus route (Kottawa Road), whether that is a good place or bad place I don't know but they got plenty of parts when a friend checked about a month back. prices were fair

Don had summed up the model recommendations nicely and about buying a Peugeot. As very correctly said, 406 has a good reputation among other Peugeot models in Sri Lanka as well as in other continents. In UK it was a major success especially with it's diesel varient and it's still being manufactured and can be bought brand new in Nigeria and Kenya with all new features they introduced in later models and with more rigid suspension setup. 406 has gone through a major design revision in 1999 and as a result the model got divided into two series namely D8 and D9. In another words it's like MK1 and MK2 in other models. Body remained same but with better reinforcements and completely revised suspension setup, increased final drive ratio, changed the engine designs to deliver more power and to make the engines quieter. ABS, Air Bags were made standard and electrical system has been improved with multiplexing and the controversial BSI (Built-in Systems Interface) introduced to control all electronics. This received negative reception in terms of reliability and all random electric gremlins were due to the first generations of BSIs. Later this was rectified but for some reason in UK, the D8 got better reviews in terms of reliable electronics than the D9 with lots of bells and whistles to make things complicated if something goes wrong. However, in-terms of safety, design, comfort and features, the D9 easily outsmarts the D8 and the cars running about in SL daily would've gone through BSI replacements and COM2000 replacements (post 2002 cars) as they were warranty repairs. both D8 and D9 got different trim levels starting from LX (with front only power shutters, central locking as options) to the Executive grade which has fully loaded package with electric heated leather seats with memory + memorized side view mirror positions, fully digitized climatic control, automatic head light washers, multi-function display with on-board computer, dual mode electric sunroof, automatic dimming rear view mirror, vanity mirrors with courtesy lamps, built-in JBL sound system and the automatic version got an auto-adaptive AL4 auto gearbox which again received negative reception due to faulty solenoid valves in the valve body and this too was later corrected. Trim levels starting from LX, GLX, Rapier (only offered in UK), GTX, and Executive. ST is offered with powerful engines and meant to be Sports trim but spare parts may be rare in SL if the engine is 3.0 V6. My advice is to go with a GLX which has all luxuries such as climate control, multi-function and built-in audio system,etc. There's a myth saying the 2.0 l doesn't do well in fuel but it's the other way around, the 1.8 is way too underpowered and now I realize the 2.0l automatic I now drive does the same or more than what my 1.8l manual used to do. Spare parts was never a problem and you don't face the hassle of walking from shop to shop in Delkanda finding used junks, instead, give away the chassis number and the dealer or even spare parts shops in Panchikawatta will get you down the exact spare part. Repairs wise too it's not a concern as there are quite a few competent mechanics and workshops around, whom are specialized in Peugeots. Prices wise both spares and repairs aren't costly if you go with the right people and parts. Usually brand-new spares available for affordable prices so there's no requirement to hunt for used spares except body parts. Sometimes back I've installed b/new starter motor at 24,000/-, radiator 18,000/-, all four shocks 32,000/- for my D8. I've been running the Executive since this April and so far nothing has done except replacing all four tires, so reliability wise I never had any issues as I've used the previous car daily since 2006 till I sold it this year.