Ted

My friend if they are my problems, I would have published already ryt? So if you cannot respond with relevant facts keep calm and stay home...

I replaced with another new engine with new head, new block, new valves, new everything...

BDW, What you think? has my crank shaft bent? or that pressure absorbed by piston or piston rod?

Yes. I am going to replace the piston with a used one, Since u know what? I have another good engine destroyed... this is my story, summerising, 1) wanted to replace engine rather overhauling and bought a very nice eninge.. 2) maka bass destroyed my engine - timing belt left less tension and skipped.. I saw from manifold hole, 4th cylinder valve stem had broken into pieces. 3) bought another engine (only head and block), I did timing belt my self asked maka bass only to swap. 4) unfortunately a small metal part of that broken valve stem had gone inside intake manifold and had come into the second new engine. So this is my story.. having spent for two engines.. still struggling to finalise.. anyway.. I will replace this fourth piston with a used one from my first new engine.. we will see.. thanks a lot for your comment....

Dear Fellows, Could you please give me an idea to my problem? There was an external metal piece of size around 5mmx3mmx2mm on top of 4th piston of my engine (5A-FE). Luckily it had only carved small areas (5mmx3mmx2mm) on piston crown and also head surface. I removed it. I was unable to remove the piston and check. But from top there were no cracks in the piston. With this metal piece engine ran around 20kms. Now after I removed I feel the engine is vibrating in high rpms than before. Also there is a very small sound coming from the engine. Could you please advice me to what can happen to the engine due to this metal piece? Has my crank shaft bent? Has my 4th piston connecting rod bent? I highly appreciate your kind reply.

My friend that was a long story. I rather have a Carina AT 192. This tapping engine is my third engine. First engine was my old one. Second engine was the starting problem you are referring which the maka bass had left the timing belt without proper tension which made three valves bent and the engine totally destroyed. This tapping is my third. What to do.. life is like that for some ppl...

Dear Fellas, I bought a reconditioned engine with a mileage of 60000 km assured. With careful inspection the engine was in very good condition. But when I replaced my old engine, with this reconditioned one, tapping noise comes. This sound comes from left side of the engine. Checked following and confirmed OKAY. I 1) Valve clearance. 2)Timing belt. 3) bearing caps of crank shaft. What is this noise? Any expert can give the correct answer ?

5A-FE engine, Gasoline and Auto.

Hi All, I bought a reconditioned engine and replaced it at Sunil Motors Boralesgamuwa. After two days of the replacement, in the morning I went to the emission and it was passed. Then I waited around at home 1hr and started to go to a near by place. After around 1.5km the car was suddenly stopped. There was an AC Idle issue due to Sunil Motor mechanic adjusted wrongly. I adjusted normal idle correctly but could not adjust AC idle valve since I had no proper allen key for that. So for all earlier trips I did not switch in AC. For this small trip I had to use AC since my wife was with me in car. When idling engine is stalling since not enough air. Kind of this happened before the sudden stop. I tried several times to start but engine rpm rises comes back to zero. Forcefully I peddled accelerator and got into a nearby spaced area. While I was forcefully peddling I engine gave a huge thud noise.  Mechanic came and tried to rotate the engine. Engine locks at one point when turning. I still cannot think what happened. Because, 1) Engine was a very good one since we carefully inspected rubber hoses, sensors, coolant passages, cam shafts, even the thermostat was like a brandnew one. 2) After the replacement I drove around 50kms and nothing was wrong in the engine. If mechanic had misaligned the timing belt this could have happened sooner. Am I ryt? Anyway mechanic will start to dismantle engine on tuesday. Highly appreciate your comments.

Engine oil was full and clean. Since this is a new engine I always checked oil level and coolant level for any reduction before a trip, middle of a trip and end of a trip. Sure I will.

Hi All, I bought a reconditioned engine and replaced it at Sunil Motors Boralesgamuwa. After two days of the replacement, in the morning I went to the emission and it was passed. Then I waited around at home 1hr and started to go to a near by place. After around 1.5km the car was suddenly stopped. There was an AC Idle issue due to Sunil Motor mechanic adjusted wrongly. I adjusted normal idle correctly but could not adjust AC idle valve since I had no proper allen key for that. So for all earlier trips I did not switch in AC. For this small trip I had to use AC since my wife was with me in car. When idling engine is stalling since not enough air. Kind of this happened before the sudden stop. I tried several times to start but engine rpm rises comes back to zero. Forcefully I peddled accelerator and got into a nearby spaced area. While I was forcefully peddling I engine gave a huge thud noise. Mechanic came and tried to rotate the engine. Engine locks at one point when turning. I still cannot think what happened. Because, 1) Engine was a very good one since we carefully inspected rubber hoses, sensors, coolant passages, cam shafts, even the thermostat was like a brandnew one. 2) After the replacement I drove around 50kms and nothing was wrong in the engine. If mechanic had misaligned the timing belt this could have happened sooner. Am I ryt? Anyway mechanic will start to dismantle engine on tuesday. Highly appreciate your comments.

Hi all, Based on your experience could u pls recommend a good mechanic in kottawa, maharagama or rathmalama or near by area? I need to replace my engine with a new one...

Mistakes happen and initially I calculated the risk factor.. I carefully followed toyota engine repair video and manual.. only the problem is expensive tools such as a torque wrench. I too am gona buy it soon.. so I have no fear of doing it.. though I haven't touched engine inside before I have some experience on other stuff of my vehicle..

Yes... Is it a must?

Guys I did the gasket replacement myself. These are the main points, 1) There are no steel gaskets since the OEM is also an elite gasket. 2) OEM too closes some of the water or air passages through both head and block. 3) Bought FUJI gasket exactly similar to the original ( 100% confirmed). 4) Resurfaced the head. 5) Cleaned the block. 6) Checked for warpage and cracks. Nothing found as such. 7) Did the gasket replacement. ? Tightned the 10 bolts passing through head and block without a torque wrench. 9) Started the engine. 10) Radiator cap showed air bubbles. These are not like soap bubbles but one bubble coming out periodically. 11) Seems my gasket replacement has failed. 12) Any advise for what next???????????

Okay friends... I decided to make the engine overhaul on my own. Could you please help me to find following details ? 1) I found 3 japan ( only origin is japan, manufacturing may in overseas plants) piston ring brands. They are RIK, NPR and TP. Could you please help me to select the best one? 2) Today I got the faced head and noticed there are few cavities. Is the JB weld in following video link will help me to fill it?

Actual Toyota part are too much high in price... reconditioned engine would provide all of them one tenth or lesser than that...

Hi, Thanks all, finally today I disassembled the engine and checked for repairs. The piston nearest to the gearbox has a play. No cavities in the head, however I gave head to Lal & Nihal for head facing ( 3700.00). For the moment I can only repair head. Later thought of replacing the engine block without repairing.. What is your suggestion? If I repair engine block pistons, rings and other things are not in same japanese quality. If I replace the full engine block with a known low milage then I get original japan parts... these are my thoughts.. could you please share your views on this?

Dear All, After a long time I am again asking your valuable experience and knowledge on auto mechanics.. My engine head gasket is blown ( 5A-FE). Seems it's affected to an air passage, since air bubbles are coming out when RPM reaches 2500. Also no oil is visible. Problem is I want some time to get it fixed myself. Usually I am not used to give any kind of a bass for repair since almost all had done damages rather than repairing my car.... I am expecting to finish this on this Saturday. It is around 1 month now after I came to know that the gasket is blow. Radiator was replaced by a new one and working well.

Have you been serviced by them? If so how long you are riding without any problem in gearbox?

I replaced with a new recon gearbox...and I dunno what mechanic had done...I was not when he was doing it...

Dear All, My car is an automatic one and mileage is 288800 km. Recently at around 250000km, the gear box was replaced. Now when I accelerate and then released the pedal and then after a very little time, a bit decelerated, again I press the pedal I feel the axels hit the gear box kind of a thing. May I know what the issue is? Checked with a mechanic who is not aware of gear repair, whether CV joints are okay... they are okay...

Dear Experts with my all the respect, In my car ( carina at 192) I feel like torque is not delivered when needed. In a road with inclination upward I feel the car is less torque and raising more than it should be ( i.e. it raises around 2 - 2.5k) and changes to a gear which is also seems less power. I checked how to test whether the gears are shifted properly and did following test based on my car manual. 1) get a voltmeter connected to TT (+ve) and E(-ve) in diag socket. 2) get the reading while I am driving. 3) The voltage values at different gear positions are in attached pic below. 4) Problem is when I drive I only (even in flat or inclined roads) get 0v, 2.1v, 4.1v and 6.1v. I could not obtain higher value than 6.1v since I did not test it in a highway. 5) For an example at gear upshift 0v -> 2.1v -> 4.1v -> 6.1v. 6) My problem is, as per below table I should get some voltage near 1v as well since its the second gear. This value is hardly given when I drive very slowly ( <10kmph). But Other times I am not getting the second gear. Is it normal? Cant the car get shifted to second gear if i need more torque in a hill ? PS - the letter B in the picture is for letter V. (Volts).

Hi, Thanks for the valuable input.. infact in my datasheet there is a method of checking the gear position using voltmeter ( since my car is OBD I port). Next time I will check this and let you know which gear engaged exactly at 100kmphs. Please see the attached pic below on how to check it.

Hi, Is the gear at 3rd position at 100kmph normal? If I calculated as if it should be in 4th gear it gives RPM of around 2000 at 100kmph, which has never been achived by my car yet..