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Hi Friends, Thanks all for the comments.. in fact as jmzsl said.. a maka bass has by passed the heater. I removed tge heater and checked for leaks by just sinking it to a water basin. No continious bubbles came out. I do not think the pipes are leaking since they are straight forward.. What is the correct way of checking heater for leaks?

Hi Davy, Thanks for advices. In fact I checked all the spongy material are not anymore... Seems I have to reinstall them. Will check after doing that. Thanks again..

Mine is a climate control no hot air option only increase the temperature.. I have tried incresing temp no change...

Hi Friends, When rainy and cool days my car front windshield is filled with fog in outside. I have to use wipers always to remove this fog. What could be the reason for that? Does it imply that my front defogger system not working? I checked front windshield air veins and cold air is coming when front defogger button is selected.

Hi Davy and my other friends, After checking spark, fuel pump and injector( ecu signal and resistance) I found all are okay. Then I removed the throttle body to check throttle position sensor. It was working fine. Only problem was 0.4mm/0.9mm requirement ( As in my another thread published on throttle position and IACV setting for minimum air flow idling). However I installed the throttle body and also fixed the air filter and when I tried to start up the car was started. Then I adjusted the idle rpm toa nominal value ( since I had set up 0.4mm/0.9mm requirement when I removed the thottle body which gave 1.2k rpm at idleling.) Car is normal now. But today when I started and pull to reverse gear ( my car is automatic), suddenly engine stalled. I again started and this happened twice. After that I started for the forth time and reverse gear problem was okay at that moment. I also drove the car in town limits in traffic engine was in idling in D position and car was not stopped. Anyone who are expert on or experienced on this issue?

Hi Davy, Yes indeed it is. This has no G signal. Only NE+ & NE- signals from which ecu calculate RPM. Engine is tuned well (Water is coming from the silenser). Does it mean that timing is properly adjusted? Or is there anything else to be checked specially for the idle rpm setup?

Thanks highly appreciate.. are TZK or Tezuka in SL market? Any agent details in inbox?

Hi all, As we all know Original Japan products are not available now for lower arm bushes, rear shock struct mounts and most of any other bushing. Some alternative product brands are, 1) Japa 2) RBI 3) Malaysian product which name I cannot rem.. etc.. Highly appreciate if anybody have an experience on the quality of such product brand. I am going to buy rear shock mounts under such brand since KBY is not available for rear strut mounts. Also as per my experience I bought Japa lower arm bush and seems it has been loosen so quickly.

will check all and let you know..

Problem is just adjusting screw will only adjust idle rpm. Not the 0.4mm - short cct/0.9mm open cct reqiirement to ecu.

At what adusting screw set up i should do this? Since I am not the firsr who adjusted this screw... i rem when i went for engine tune up several months back the mechanic adjusted this screw to set the idling rpm.

Hi Rumesh, Thanks for the reply. Infact I did not check the IACV yet. I will check it and give you feedback soon. Rather I wonder there are two parameters to adjust. One is this ajdusting screw and the other is throttle position sensor. Manual does not say anything on adjusting screw. Manual says if 0.4 mm short cct and 0.9mm open cct is not given in throttle position sensor, then adjust the throttle position sensor. What I did was adjusting the screw. For this setting screw set up to maximum throttle opening. I searched in videos, there are some complex activities to do in order to tune these all. Need an IAC actuator as well. Any comments? Will get back to you soon with your answers...

Hi all, My Car front coils are of two different types. One has 5 turns another has 6 turns. I wonder what would be the original one came from toyota. Could you please tell me the original coil spring details or a photo, if anybody have toyota carina AT 192 ?

Hi all, I am confused with setting the throttle position in order to get the optimim idling (i.e. Idle control valve functions at specified rates and at the specified idling rpm). My car manual says, 1) when 0.4 mm thickness is between throttle stop screw and throttle throttle lever, throttle IDL and E1 pins should show conductivity. 2) when 0.9mm thickness is between throttle stop screw and throttle position lever, IDL - E1 should start showing open circuit. When I adjusted the throttle stop screw in order to obtain above, I idling rpm was 1500 rev/min. This is too much. So I adjusted the throttle stop lever to obtain idle rpm to about 800 rev/min. My question is how I should obtain both correct rpm setring and throttle setting (above 1-2) ? Anyone who had same experience or expert please...

Hi davy, I checked each injector with a flat screw drive and I heard the ticking noise. But enginee does not start. Does it mean that signal from ECU is coming to injector? I also checked for sparks with a spare spark plug. I saw sparks of each spark plug. (I dunno whether it is strong or not but it sparks). Also fuel pump buzzer is heard still. There is only left is to check for fuel. Am I ryt? If so could you please let me know how to check? P.S. - bolt in the fuel rail was slightly loosen Fuel came out with a considerable preassure..

Unfortunately mine is OBDI. Still trying. We'l see.

Hi one question.. can i test injector pulses using a normal incandecent bulb? If so could you please let me know the Wattage of such a normal bulb? ( My car manual fuel injector resistance is 13.4 to 14.2 Ohm). Wont it harm the ecu transistor?

Hi Hi.. thanks for your advices will check...

Hi Thanks for the comments I tried following but unfortunately still the problem exists... 1) checked for short circuit ( measured amp through +ve to negative bat, when ignition off No short circuit. ( 150mA drawn when door is open, door is closes 10mA). 2) Replaced a new battery. 3) checked all the fuses and relays. All are OKAY. 4) checked spark occures. Used a spared spark plug and watched for sparks. It gave sparks when start up try. 5) engine roters when Switched to START but not starts. 6) Checked starter motor voltage when start up trying. It gave 10v. 7) Checked bat voltage when start up trying. It gave 11v. 8) Checked the fuel pump. When Fb and T1 terminals in the diag. Socket are shorted, I heared the sweeezz noise from the fuel flow. I checked all above still not starting. Any expert advice please....

I romoved bat terminals during repair. I took another bat not jump starter. Carina at 192=

Hi guys thanks for all comments....

Hi all, My car does not start. I did nothing to the engine and electrical related to engine. What I did was just repaired loosen right side power mirror and also power shutter switch buttons. I tested power mirror several times ( 10 times max). The day after I tried to start the car and it started for the first time giving rpm dying. ( 300 to 650 again 650 to 300 again 650 agsin 300 and stopped). Then it did not start at all even like above way. I recharged the battery still issue exists. When I switch on the car, crank is starting very very slowly and dash board blinks. When the key is kept engine start position, engine behaves like above just two ir three times and then even crank is not moving. Please advice. I am in a miserable situation.

Yes I know but at if the service is carried out periodically, then cost will be worth...

Hi friends, I am planning to carry out AC services and repairs of my car my self. But I need HVAC vacuum pump and vacuum gauge. Do you know any place to buy such gadgets with a fair price? Your comments are highly appreciated. Bye for now.

Hi all, My car AC stopped working suddenly and when I press AC button after the blower it gives a strange odor and with no cool. Any experience on such? Comments highly appreciate...