A basic BSwap from a Dseries, from one Eg to another requires the Motor (B16A/B , B18C's etc), Dizzy, Alternator, Starter, Power Steering Pump brackets, Radiator Hoses, Engine Harness, All the Sensors etc. Tranny (S4C,Y21,S80, Y20 LSD/non LSD), Drive Shafts(based on the HP rating), Linkages (From a 94-00 Integra), Mounts (Rear Mount from a 94-200 Integra), Vtec Main Harness (Dash Harness) that is if your current D series Motor has no Vtec or you will need to splice in for the 4 wire O2 Sensor, and Lastly the OBD1 ECU (P30 JDM or P73 JDM) We use P28 better for Chip Tuning or HONDATA. Might be worth replacing the Fuel Pump and some better injectors (550cc;s from an EVO 5 for example) B series motors will need better fuel delivery.
I was sudying in the UK for the last 4 years got into Honda's did the Swap myself from an EG4VTI to an EG4LSi. It is pretty straightforward if you have have the Right Tools, Engine Lift, Levelers Torque wrenches, Breaker bars, and most importantly some WD40 a Good Hammer, Punch set and some Patience lol
Wiring doesn't need to change on the Right Hand (Drivers) Side inside the engine bay as it connects to the OBD1 Harness straight away. Just the Dash needs coming off and the Main harness replaced with the ECU. Connect the Fuse Boxes check all relays and Fuses
Other Suggested Upgrades while doing the Swap : (If you want to get it done good and have the money for it haha)
Engine - Head Gasket (0.2mm thinner), Valve Cover and plug seal replacement, intake and exhaust Gaskets Timing Belt, Water Pump, Oil pickup, oil Sump, Hamp Oil filter, Adjustable Cam Pulley , Solid Engine mounts or use Innovative, Hasports etc.
Fueling: Fuel Rail, Adjustable Pressure Regulator, Braided Fuel lines, in Line Fuel Filter for better flow, New Injectors
Gearbox - Stage 1 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel Change all bearings (Pilot bearing and Throwout bearing), Braided Clutch line and new Master/Slave cylinders
Cooling : Silicone Radiator Hoses and Big Aluminium Radiator
Breaking - Big Brakes (282mm Front;s 262mm Rear Hub Swap) we use the MB6 brakes, Braided Lines, Use the 96 spec Integra Master Cylinder and a Tegiwa Brake Stopper, Good Brake proportioning Valves
Steering - Delete that power steering and Go with a Manual Rack lol ! less load on the Engine
Intake - AEM or Injen Cold air intake (All-Motor setup) , Skunk 2 Intake Manifold and Throttle Body / Exhaust - Catback 2.5 Inch Exhaust with a 4-2-1 Mugen header and Spoon N1 Exhaust Sweet Sound man, I'd use a 2.25 to 2.5 inch De-Cat pipe to replace the Catalytic Converter
Suspension : all 4 replaced with some HSD, BC, YellowSpeed, BuddyClub, Skunk, Fully Adjustable Coilovers, Anti Roll Bars from a Teg DC2 both Front and Back, Polyurethane Bushes All round. Used some Strut Braces Front and Back Subframe Braces at the Back and a Beaks Tie bar. Change Control arms, Upper/Lower Camber arms with Adjustable hardware. No negative Camber or Crazy low Heights please.
Wheels : I'd go for a 4 x 114 DC2 Type R Set-up with 15 inch Rota Slip Streams or Grid Wheels on (Try Getting Enke's or Grams) tires I'd go with 195/50/15's Toyo Tires all 4 or Toyo R88R's Nankang NSR's Semi Slicks etc for Track.
Interior : Nothing Much to Change : If you really want to put it to track all day : I'd do Roll Cages, Dish Steering wheels, Short Shifters, Racing Pedal, Bucket Seats, 6 Point harnesses etc,etc. But if it is mainly for Road use, keep it Standards and Change the Gear knob and Pedals only. Mugen Pedals Momo Gear knob
Apart From that Grease Everything up make sure the Throttle Cable is tensioned. Get a Good BaseMap uploaded to the ECU before running it and later on get it tuned on Dyno or whatever.
There you Go !
Top up Fluids with Honda MTF, Anti Freez, Use Motul 5w 30 For Engine, Bleed air, and Crank it over.. Hit me up if you need any advice . I know that the UK/US Honda scene is way advanced and we have easy access to all these parts which is Handy. I Hope the Honda Scene in SL would come up fast too.
