gunat

The AS200 has a 6 cylinder 2.0 engine. Good for 160 bhp, but a cruiser from what i've read. A couple are here in SL, but as mentioned before, not many for sale. That would probably be worth around 3mill...depending on the plate number. the RS200 is the cracker to have. Very few in SL, and very desirable from a tuning perspective. Being as none are up for sale, i suppose it'll command a higher price. Not too sure about the part availability though....

An update for those of you who might be interested: The Agents (or at least, retailers) for Autoglym Car care is A*W-Pitst*p. I just had a complete Cut/Polish done there and i have to say, the finish is stunning. Autoglym claim to not use abrasive-based ingredients in their products, and they have an extensive professional range for restoring/repairing a paintjob. They use orbital machines for the cut and polish- so the finish is even and consistent. Note: the products they use for the cut/polish package are the Autoglym Professional range- i'm not sure if thats available for sale... But they have the standard range of car care products on the shelf. A medium sized car will cost around 3-4k for cut/polish. Relatively good deal if you get it done once every 6 months, and give a polish monthly at home...they will advise you on how to care for the paint after the work is done. P*tst*p is by far, the most professional and well organized Service Stations i have been to. Not only are their staff very polite and knowlegeable, but they have a lounge (with cable!) and mini-cafeteria for the patrons. You don't have to break a sweat getting your vehicle cleaned up...

The Hot/Cold Temperature difference is mainly due to transference of heat when the engine has been run in. As the boys have mentioned earlier- make sure you have your slushbox oils changed. I've also heard that Honda Automatics have a specific oil that needs to be used- so i suggest doing some research/asking around from other Honda owners. If my memory serves me correct, you can't change the oil at your corner-store service station; stafford should be able to answer your concerns. Good luck

Jury's still out on this one i'll say- in fact...you'll probably get very different responses from all corners of the forum. So far, the best 'set' i've used is 3M, but i've heard some great things about Autoglym, which i'm going to give a go next month. I use the word 'set' meaning- the staggered approach- rubbing compound, scratch remover, swirl remover, polish, wax. BTW, congrats on the new acquisition- i have a '72 Super...my first car. One of my nieghbors has a 52 split- one of the first shipped to SL, and still with the family.

Actually, it does top out early...but the point is all that fabulous torque (more than a 750i)- you spend LESS time changing gears because there's so much grunt from lower end (stick 'it in 3rd and go!) At face value, a new engine sounds fabulous...but the bigger question would be, why it was replaced in the first place? Check the history of the car (engine fire? Blown? Electrical?) As for the value of the car- the depreciation in UK is all too well known; so i'd have to say, first find out what the car's history is...

Given any thought to the 330cd? There was an impressive Top Gear test pitting the 330d against the 330i...and it was behind just by whiskers length. Add better economy and tax break to the kudos, it might be the way to go...?

My recommendation- Nadheera J or Autoforce But Question- if you just bought the car, why would you need a tune up?

Thanks for the Info guys- agent it is then... cheers

Thanks for all the feedback guys- much appreciated.... Something to be said about well-pickled experience, as the Don mentioned... cheers

Anyone have any feedback on this place? How are they for mechanical Repairs/quality of work? Looking it up for a friend...haven't really dealt with these guys... cheers

Bump! If anyone has info on this, much appreciated!

Given the state of the spark plugs, i don't think you have ignition issues. Fuel delivery might be your culprit...starvation can cause all the symptoms you describe. But you'll have to figure out the problem through process of elimination. If fuel is going to the engine without issue, you'll have to look again at the engine to see what could be wrong.

Couple of questions: 1. Is it fuel injected? 2. How old is the car? if fuel injected...check the fuel pump. The older the unit, the greater possibility of it failing due to fatigue. Have you tested the fuel pressure before it reaches the engine? good luck

Thanks Zak- thats sounds right, given that there is no oil consumption. I should look into the fuel mixture aspect... Hi the rebuild was the standard engine rebuild- no machining involved. New Rings, gaskets, bearings, seals etc.Anything that didn't look good, was replaced. I didn't have to replace any mechanical stuff (Pistons, Conrods, cranks, cams)- as everything was in very good shape. I believe some work was done at edirisinghe bros. since they have the necessary machinery. The only other non-standard work was a P&P on the head. Nadheera Jinasena took care of my car... As i mentioned before, Toyota Lanka was great. They had everything i needed for the car in stock- including the exact-fit spark wires and engine mounts. They also delivered everything to my office. Very competent, and professional. I've been to the Wattala operation for a service etc, and again...very impressed with their work. Final Bill...lets just say it was on the other side of 100k, once you factor in labour..etc. Cheers

On the topic of car security systems... Any recommendations on a good system? I've seen a few people with the alarm built into the keyfob (like VW/BMW/Merc)- where can you get that?

Thanks guys- i'm not worried about the high-mileage issue, since the engine was just rebuilt from scratch...

To bring this Thread back guys... So after using XHP for the last 3 years, i've moved to Mobil 1 synthy... Question for all the synthetic users out there- does your oil change colour after the first thousand kms? I'm not accustomed to how synthetic behaves long term...so any feedback would be appreciated... cheers

Hola's referring to the Index reading for darkness of a Tint...ie. 25%, 60%, etc...although i doubt our officials have the equipment to actually measure this, it is standard fare in most US states/Euro countries... I remember back in the day when the customs would refuse to release a vehicle from the ports if it had (rear) factory tints- which was part of the glass and not an add on...some pockets got filled to get those vehicles out! As most have said, the law was always there, but was relaxed during peacetime (if we can call it that). Now, given the current state of affairs, its come back for the sake of security. Given that our army checkpoints and security checkpoints cannot issue citations for cars with tinted windows, the task is left to the traffic police...

Same here- but as mentioned, only the front tints have to be removed. Got copped on Galle Rd near Mt.Lav. on my way into work- very courteous cop... Unfortunately, getting your license back isn't as efficient as getting the bloody ticket. Depending on the station, the OIC traffic may inspect the car before you get your license back. I was unlucky in that the several times i went, he wasn't there. To make it more frustrating, when he was there, he didn't bother to look at the car and just signed off. No one inspected the car eventually- they just gave me my license back. Banana Republic.

And in typical Bond Fashion, the car is wrecked in a spectacular pedestrian avoidance maneuver (those who've seen the trailer will know what i'm talking about!).

Apart from the 2002- there is one priceless 328 roadster (1930/40's) model in SL. Still owned by the same family and is taken out once in a while... http://www.bmwworld.com/models/vintage/30s.htm

That really depends on your definition of 'busted'. If we're talking engine blown, then your cams. crank and valves are sure to take some of the damage. The main concern would be whether your block is intact or not. Rebuilding is expensive- if you use orginal parts, sometimes more costly than buying a junk engine. I use the work "junk" engine because there's no such thing as a recon'd engine...they just yank engines out of damaged/condemned cars and sell them here. Having said that though, i know 3 instances of such engines being used in racing application, and they've been good for a few races before needing attention. Find out how your block is- then decide whether its a question of buying another engine or not. The best combination is both, where you can cannibalise parts to make a better engine. I believe Lal&Nihals or Edirisinghe Bros. have equipment to verify whether your block is good or not.

Happy (Belated) wishes you old geezer.

Nice ride! I've...errrgh...met another car with same colours on Marine Drive...flies! The Gold Alloys are probably its enduring touch.... Just a quick advice, only because i saw a similar (white) car at Aut*Fo*ce recently which had to have a new gearbox put in. Turns out that there's an water intercooler unit (i think) that cools the gearbox- if that unit corrodes/gives way...water gets into the GB, rendering it useless. It apparently can't be repaired, can't be refurbished. A new unit costs $$$$....might be good to do some long term preventative maintenence by checking your radiator periodically for signs of CVT oil. Nissan Maniacs- maybe you can supplement this (or de-bunk what i've written! Either way, its worthwhile debate) Good Luck! Safe Riding!

I don't know if anyone actually noticed- but in the last few pictures, i think that club had invited some ol' school cast members from the show (That brunette Bonnie, being one)... Scary part is the plus+plus size blonde...i think thats the bird who played APRIL (replacement when the brunettes character went on hiatus)....all i can say is...shiiiyaaat, what 20 odd years can do!