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[Not recommending used pads at all !] I second that. In fact, if budget is an issue- its better to get new non-toyota pads than used. Lesser of 2 evils. Good luck

Neither am i for that matter Miniace, but if you're picky, i think Autoglym has a similar product (x3 the price though). You can get it at Pit*top...

Miniace...even if your wipers are mediocre, after you apply Rain X..its a world of a difference...

As Don says, decatt means the Catalytic Converter removed. The ECU also reads data off the exhaust system-typically thru a sensor in the Cat. If this isn't wired right after being de-catted, it can (repeat, can...not will) affect the engine tune state. So you have one more thing to check...

Yes, components such as Shocks are expensive- but the more ancillary bits, like brake parts, bushes, engine bits are more reasonably prices. Plus you get the benefit of an original part...Front pads should set you back around 10-12k. Bit of advice- there are aftermarket non-OEM pads that fit the stock calipers, but the lifetime of these is far less that original parts. The only other place that supplies genuine Toyota parts, is MM Organization- but i'm not sure if they have supplies for the more rarer models such as the GT Turbo. Worth a try though.

Ah- the above puts a slightly different perspective- aside from a tune-up, you might want to have a turbo guru have a look just to verify if all the forced induction bits are working ok. You might also want to check the condition of your spark plugs, if you haven't replaced them recently. Is your car de-catted?

If you're looking for stock pads, Toyota L*nka has it all!

No offense mate, but the fact that you're asking means you don't have the knowledge. So i'd say no, its not something thats easily done at home, unless you have the know-how. My recommendation is to take it to a professional- there's a lot of ancillary stuff that gets taken off before you even get to removing the throttle body...and experience has taught me that while things are easy to remove, putting them back correctly is another story... On average, i'd say, the whole job should cost about 4-5k, excluding sparks, injection cleaner, etc...

Rain X is this coating you apply on the windscreen after cleaning- its a simple procedure thats done @ home. I swear by the stuff- saved my life (not here) on a US motorway in a massive downpour. My wipers decided to stop working while i was driving at about 70 mph...i almost sh*t a brick, only to realise that the sheer speed and the Rain X coating, the water didn't stay on the screen- just blew right off. So i just kept going... It's available at Motorc*de, Turtle Wax Glass Polish i got off a supermarket shelf...i think it was Ar*ico...

Maithri- On the topic of periodic changes. What if, the car has done only 30k kms, but the age of the car is 8 years old? (Assume that the timing belt is the same age) My thinking is the same as tires- they say, don't buy anything older that 2-3 years old because of the ageing rubber. Thoughts?

Bought 3 Wurth Blades from Aut* Mir*j a month or so back. So far so good, but then again, i don't wait for the blades to deteriorate, i find that one year is the maximum time most good blades last with our weather. A clear windscreen is more important to me, so i use Turtle Wax Glass Polish, and Rain X. Makes driving in the rain a lot easier...

The fact that its a made-for-tv movie, and they downgraded from the upcoming new Vector to a boxy Mustang, i'd say this will be somewhat of a lost cause...even if they are getting David (hic!) Hasselhoff to cameo...

This should be fun... 1920s Bugatti 33 1930s Mercedes Benz 540k Voisin C27 Aerosport SS 100 (Jaguar) 1940s Citroen Light 15 Tucker 48 1950s Mercedes 300 SL Gullwing (drool!) Mercedes 300C Type 1 VW Beetle 1960s (3 is just not enough! This was a design decade of bertone, pininfarina, guigaro!) Aston Martin DB 6 Ferrari 250 GTO Corvette Stingray 1970s Ferrari 365 Daytona Spider (Wayfarers and Pastel colours, anyone?) Porsche 911 Carrera Ferrari Dino 246 GTS 1980s BMW M3 (E30) BMW M6 Peugeot 205 GTI 1990s Mercedes 190E 2.5-16 Evolution II Mclaren F1 Honda Integra Type R 2000s will wait for the decade to be over to decide...

Unlike the Evo's, Subaru was never consistent with how the named their cars, especially after the GC chassis was replaced by the newer GD model. GC competition models were easily spotted out by the Type R and RA suffix to the relevant STI version. But for the GD models, I had to refer to the STI site (in japanese!) to understand how they named their cars...especially the Spec "X" and Type "X" models...there's a whole slew of acronyms that were added to the STI range- from Type/Spec A, C, R, RA, RA-R...confusing!!! The penultimate STI is said to be the limited edition Type RA-R...which i believe is 300 cars. This is before the new grandma-model came out...

The Starlet GT has a fixed ICV, in that you can't change the state of idle. Are you having issues with your idle or are you looking to deliberately change the idle?

I don't fill up at the same station- and so far have avoided IOC like the plague after the alleged Water-in-petrol incident a couple years back. Its definitely easy to skim off the top, especially when you pump a full tank. I naively continue to fill at Laufgs and CPC stations. Hopefully someone can spare the time to find out who's playing pucks with the meters...

You can obtain a temporary (14 days) 3rd party insurance until the full paperwork is obtained from Janasha*thi- although i'm not sure if other companies offer the same... They will require the car to be inspected, and valuation done accordingly.

We have a brand new Terios- apart from the astronomical price (lets face it US$ 50k for a mini SUV is nuts)...its been a fabulous machine. Interior is (surprisingly) more spacious than the Previous-gen Escudo we had. Its a lot more maneuverable in traffic, and does ok on petrol (7-8 in the city...estimate 10+ outstation)- these are expected numbers given its continous AWD. Softlogic service has been stellar, accommodating a trade in with our old vehicle, and setting up all the necessary paperwork/processing with minimal fuss for us. The Rush is just badge re-engineering, and while there are some JDM options that are not available on the Domestic Terios, i still do not find them worth the premium price- and when you factor in warranty, servicing and after sales service, the Terios is the better deal.

No idea, but bump for anyone who can let us know if there is a place that does such repairs, short of replacing the entire unit... Places that come to mind: Gilbert, Advance, Pet#o, Dimos, Prestige, Senok...

If your car paint is metallic (which most cars are), colour matching is an absolute PITA...especially the darker colours. This is mainly because metallic colours fade in the sun and change with ageing (time). To make matters worse, if the final layer lacquer used in a repaint is different from what was originally on the car, then you're likely to have a difference showing. That is why, most body shops never recommend painting one panel only- but entire sections. Its expensive, but there's some logic to it. As the Angel has said, see what happens after a few months...

references: http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html http://fifthgear.five.tv/jsp/5gmain.jsp?ln...ection=Consumer

Two Words I preach and live by: Preventative Maintenance!

Swift 1.3- timing belt.

Change Timing belt between 80k to 100k- don't wait any longer, or there goes your valvetrain! Most user manuals say to change at 100k, but given our road conditions, driving style, would recommend earlier. Timing belts, by very basic definition, make sure that your valves/cams etc are working with correct timing with the lower assembly of your engine (Pistons, crank, etc). When this snaps, the engine will stop...-but not before the piston heads (because of lost timing) collide with the valve train, both of which will get damaged. Expensive repair. Those engines with Narrow angle valves (such as the 20v 4AGE) escape this fate as there actual angle of the valves to the pistons is acute enough that there is no contact. Forum Experts; please add/correct where necessary... As for WHERE to go- any qualified/reputed mechanic can change the Timing belt. For more expensive cars, go to the agents.

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