Saturn

Yes. http://www.airliners.net/open.file?id=1209601

Well every once in a while incredible things happen. To give you an example my dad once advertised his car for around 200,000 under market value (at that time). Actually, he priced it so low because he hadn't lived here for a while and thought that vehicles depreciated here (He last lived here in the UNP era when vehicles did depreciate).* To cut a long story short, the car was sold on Friday (The ad was for the sunday observer). So every once in a while the impossible happens. But in this case, more likely its a misprint, or the car has some serious flaw (like a dead engine). @Harshan: on the subject of cars around 950k, just stumbled on this in the auto lanka ads, it looks like a good deal: http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=2599 These days it seems that anything above 19- has an asking price of over a million. *for all those people who complain abt the current govt, at least you got to hand it to them, they fixed the vehicle depreciation problem, something no other govt could achieve

150 bhp for such a smal car should be quite interesting. I tried a few NA Vitz's and I was rather disappointed with their performance, in contrast, the Starlets I test drove were quite capable, even without turbo's.

@Shakir Awesome car dude! Congrats If you don't mind me asking, can you or anyone tell me abt real world fuel consumption of this car? Am considering a Subaru as my next car and wondering whether to go for normal or turbo.

I would say if your oil isnt getting dirty and the engine is running nicely then no need.. Engine flush could react unfavorably with engine oil... (and leave residue)...? Over to the experts..

More here: http://amazing-filtered.blogspot.com/2007/...e-industry.html Chinese cars

You most welcome! just a note: by radiator flush i dont mean chemical flush, rather just tap water flush - this should remove most gunk without being dangerous - and you can also now add coolant after flush (use 50% water 50% coolant)

First please top up to correct level. Next, go for a good drive, come back and with engine still on look at the battery. If it is leaking due to overcharging you will hear fizzing sound, water will be low, and some will have splashed out from top of battery, also battery will be hot to touch. (be very careful touching battery, dont touch any of the fluid as it is sulphuric acid - you know that but I thought I should mention anyway!) Also (as Ripper here said) you can attach a voltage meter, ask someone to look at it, and rev your car gently to about 3000 rpm if the meter goes up abnormally (say to 16 - 17 volts) then maybe the alternator/power system has minor issues. Note that if this is the case good to fix as all the appliances on your car will be getting too much voltage (radio, lights). One easy way to notice this is if you are blowing bulbs too often! Have you replaced any of your bulbs during last few days? e.g. signal, brake lights etc??

Yes that does sound like the temperature meter Well if it starts very cleanly and easily without struggling then its probably fine. Pala can do a service for 1700 or so but you may want to wait as it seems OK? Alternator acts like a dynamo and makes 12V DC to charge your battery (and provide electricity to all the various components when vehicle running). It is usually located quite close to the engine with a pulley driven by one of the belts.. I think the one with a lid is the radiator but other is the A/C condensor. Both are usually put close by. Very good to know that there are 2 fans. One would be for A/C and switch on when A/C is running. (you can try this to see) Thats OK pala will sort it out easily. I'm happy to be of help! Well it could be that oil hasn't been changed recently. Just take car and request engine oil and filter be changed. You will need a can of oil (or can buy) I recommend Havoline - just buy a 4 liter one (it's under 2000) and get the oil filter (actually you can get that at the service station. Filter would cost about 300 - 500 (you can ask for VIC brand which is cheaper). If it is still very black you can wait a month and change again. Could be previous owner didn't service too often.. Well water goes down sometimes, perhaps through tiny leaks. The most important thing is you should be using coolant (water should have a green color if coolant is there). you can get a mechanic to 'flush' the radiator which is to clean it out with water and then add coolant but this involves opening lower tap which must be done carefully. RPM is revolutions per minute - how fast your engine is spinning. From the sound you can have an idea but also a meter is useful. See if your car has the meter (it is just a stick and numbers from one up to six or seven with the last 1 or 2 numbers in red. If your vehicle does not have rpm meter then you could get aftermarket one (I think) but not necessary. Basically just listen to your engine on Idle and with A/c - it should sound healthy, if its slow and intermittent then RPM settings are a bit too low. Hmm not sure about that maybe someone here has an idea? Autolanka forums are to help people so you are most welcome to ask questions, I'm sure admins will agree on this one

Guys could any of you tell me the latest pricing for 99-2000 Vitz? I'm being asked 1.5 upwards which seems a bit high. What do you think?

Yes thats great! Though Pala may not be able to get the 50% thing going if they can fix the main fan to work with the sensor it would be great (they can do that easily) and they will replace any parts only if absolutely necessary. (they are quite good that way). For the second fan you can get it fixed to run 100% and later on add a large resistor between... or well better yet keep it running 100% of the duration of your car being on, hopefully it should be OK. (Fit the second fan in FRONT of radiator forcing air inwards, and get them to wire it to run when engine is on - you can get them to put a switch or something for it but best to have it running 100%) How is your alternator and startermotor? You can get Pala to service them, it wont cost much (under 2000 each) but will ensure that both work well and give many years of reliable service. I suggest get the second fan from ATCO as they have it for around 1,900 or so whereas Pala will charge more (they tend to charge a bit more for parts). Atco is the A/C shop along stanley thillekaratne road, you can get the fan there (just ask for the black plastic 12inch a/c fan). Good luck with your car and please ask any question I will try to help

I'm searching for a similar vehicle. Here's what I've found so far: Toyota Sprinter Marino/Ceres - Auto - avg condition asking 1.175 (available) Lancer 301 japanese manual carb excellent condition asking 1mn++ (highly recommended, status unknown) Tercel 301 Manual 4 door 1998 - avg condition Asking 1.175 mn also (available) Vitz HI and Vitz G- (asking 1.3x each) good condition (both sold) 1996 Corolla II diesel turbo as new condition asking 1mn (was sold in about 5 minutes) 1997 Corolla II petrol asking 975 Avg condition asking 9xx (status unknown) 199X Honda EG8 (gaya alawatta's vehicle, advertised on autolanka, asking 1.125 negotiable) good condition quite a powerful car (see autolanka adverts). http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=2496

Thanks for your kind words! I'm happy to help. As far as Engine temperature goes, I would suggest this: 1. After a drive, pop the hood and very carefully touch the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. Also you can try very carefully touching the engine oil cap - also touch the body of the car/engine bay if body is warm not boiling hot then should be OK. In your car the fan is running constantly which is not safe for the fan thats why if possible i suggest you get an extra fan fixed in front constant speed and get the main fan working with thermostat. I would guess this would cost about 2000 (for fan) 1500 (for sensor if it has to be replaced) about a 1000 for wiring/work? Re: the vehicle not idling perfectly on startup I know 2 people here suggested clean the carb but I would suggest not to take apart the carb as it is a messy job and besides your car works OK anyway. I think the initial rough startup before warmup is due to plugs not carb. You can test this by waiting till the engine is absolutely cold (next day, for example) and removing and cleaning all 4 plugs. Then start the engine you should see that it will run nicely even though its cold. To clean plugs, you can use a few drops of petrol and a toothbrush. Some people use sandpaper but I think this is a bad idea as it wears the plugs. Just dip the plug tip in petrol and brush it with the toothbrush. If you have not already done so do consider replacing with a new plug set. Plugs aren't too expensive (I think a new set would be under 2000) best plugs around are NGK - and you can pick them up anywhere. Douglas and sons on darley road usually have reasonable prices, just show one of your existing plugs to them they can find the replacement. Also if possible consider Iridium plugs (they are more expensive about 1600 each but give very good mileage, performance and are more resistant to fouling). Be very careful when fixing/removing plugs. I suggest you rub a little engine oil on the thread of the plug so it can be fixed/removed easily. Don't over-tighten plug. As for clutch balancing I would say this if you are stopping on a hill e.g. for traffic light: - Engage neutral gear with brake pedal and clutch, then put handbrake, release brake pedal (but make sure handbrake works well first) - when you are ready to go, engage first gear, slowly release clutch till the vehicle seems to start pulling forward, then carefully release the handbrake. I also suggest that (if you have not already done so) you get your brakes checked (pala can do it) - even if the brakes work OK its good to check front and rear, and replace anything necessary. (good for safety). For the engine temperature does your car have the meter, if so I'm sure pala can fix it. maybe the wire is broken/loose (I think the temp is told via a small wire thats fixed into a sensor somewhere in your engine - perhaps near the TOP hose of the radiator. Its good to get the temperature meter working as you need to monitor engine temperature. Im sure pala can sort out all the meters as their specialization is in electrical work.

Darned if i know to be honest. I saw either 8,000 or 80,000. I think it may have been 80k something. I was unfamiliar with the meter layout and I'm not sure if I observed it properly. That said, owner was demanding 1.37m Sadly (or happily) the owner said he has found another buyer. So this means I am on the lookout for an auto Vitz or AE110 Not that I would buy either for myself but my friend insists she wants an automatic toyota.

>>Thanks. You are quite right. To be honest I don't know much about this aspect. if you or anyone can, please write about this.

IMO it's a bit underpowered and it's Indian, BUT.. it IS a TATA and they are probably India's best manufacturer. Rather than buying this why don't you consider a slightly used land cruiser? You'd definitely have better resale value?

>>>>I am not an expert but I will try to answer you as best I can >>>Be very careful when using the engine to slow the car. Don't use downshifting unless you are slowing down very gradually and even then be very careful. I would suggest pressing the brake (on whatever gear you are on) and slowing the engine gradually to around 1000 rpm, then netural and continue further slowing with just the brake - true this will wear brake pads faster but it is safer for engine. >>>This is quite normal for most 4 cylinder non turbo cars the AC causes the vehicle to slow a bit. If the RPM gets too low, it could mean the A/C idle up does not work or is set too low. If you notice this happening as you drive you can compensate by accelerating a bit more. Both Atco and Pala are good for A/C work ON A SOMEWHAT RELATED NOTE: Please ensure that your normal idle and A/C idle are above 900 rpm. I say this because for an old engine its best to have the idle a little high so the engine is not stressed. Also when driving make sure you dont dip below 900rpm. >>If your plugs are old, an initial startup could cause one or two plugs to not fire 100%, till the engine warms up. You may be able to fix this by upgrading to better plugs (platinum/iridium etc) >>>>I suggest you remove the plugs and check them before you start, if the tips are white don't worry but if they are brown/black consider replacing them. Sometimes a minor oil leak in a cylinder could cause a plug to misfire till warm, if this is the case you would find a trace of oil on the plug. TIP: BE CAREFUL removing/fixing plugs on older cars - don't over tighten as you run the risk of breaking the plug or thread which would mean you have to remove the head and get it re-sleeved. Not fun! >>Actually my car has the same problem. Bump and go reversing on my part. It would be convenient for you to fix this when you do the tinkering. But check that the bumper is not falling off!! >>>Just don't clutch balance. It's not good for the clutch. If you have to stop on an incline, 1. press brake 2. neutral gear 3. engage hand-brake (of course the hand brake must be properly working) A lot of people like to clutch balance so you can pick off fast but this is stressful for the car/engine/transmission and also risky (if you slide backwards accidentally). >>Like to hear the expert view on this question I hope my answers were helpful and please ask any further questions you have?

In many cars over ten years old, mechanics wire the fan to run full time. This could be because the temperature sensor/thermostat/relay is not working, or because the vehicle runs a bit hot. You can continue to use like this but there is the danger the fan could fail (due to constant use). Generally the engine won't be harmed unless the constant fan is causing the radiator to overcool and preventing the engine reaching operating temperature (which is unlikely in Sri Lanka!!!) Also these fans are designed ro run intermittently, so running it non stop could cause it to fail, which could cause the radiator to boil, and make engine overheat. Best thing to do is get the thermostat and fan fixed properly to switch on when engine is hot, and use a separate relay (with a resistor bank) to have the fan run constantly at a low speed. This way fan will always run at 50% speed (so wont damage fan and will help keep radiator moderately cool), and if the temperature gets too high, fan will switch to full speed. You can also get an extra fan fitted in front of radiator/condenser and drive it by a separate relay. You can buy a 12 inch diameter fan from Atco (along Stanley thillekaratne road) for under 2k, again PALA will fix the fan for you with a relay. Having an extra fan (or fans) in front of your radiator/condensor will help cool the engine, and also help the A/C stay cooler. Remember with an old engine be VERY CAREFUL OF OVERHEATING. a single overheating incident could cause head/head gasket failure! Re: dashboard meters: Sometimes the speedometer cable could have come loose/broken also there could be electrical glitches/broken wires causing other things not to work Best thing to do is drive the car anyday at around 9AM to Pala auto (along baseline road) and let them sort things out - their rates are decent and their work is top notch. They can definitely sort out most of the glitches and get things going properly. How is your engine temperature - is it at or below half? Don't rely on the meter which could be weak, see the actual engine/engine bay temperature (after a drive stop the car, pop the hood and take a look) Good luck!

I'm not sure if the car had a gauge. It did have a overheat light which was off though? thanks for the reply I was a bit surprised at how hot this engine was..

hi guys I need a little help. I saw out an auto Vitz (Yom 99) Went for a test drive and found 2 things. 1. (After the drive) the engine seemed to be a bit hot. The hood was hot to touch. 2. Vehicle seemed quite slow (of course this is an NA 1liter engine so can't expect magic). Yes the transmission up/down shifted correctly but it just seemed quite slow, particularly when climbing hills. I just wanted to know if this is normal for this particular vehicle?

Happy birthday dragster!! hope u have a good party!

Prasanna, as many people here are pointing out, the Maruti esteem is built on ancient technology. It's a nice car if you were buying a car 20 years ago. Japanese cars have gone through 20 years of evolution beyond what this vehicle was. And the modern japanese cars have more safety, better comfort, better fuel economy, etc., not to mention that all important resale value. I'd say use the money to buy a new Esteem (million something?) to buy yourself an AE110, Mitsubishi lancer, Suzuki swift/liana, or even a Nissan, that would be a better buy. Edit: with 1.9 million, you have no need to buy an Indian vehicle, you can definitely get a decent japanese car with a bit of hunting. I would suggest you consider an AE110, this money should definitely get you a good one (see autolanka classified or newspapers). Also you may consider a Suzuki liana or swift (if that's the car type you want) but I'm not certain if the money would get you that. You might also be able to get a more exotic car, for example a Carina GT, or even a glanza (there was a lovely one advertised on Autolanka for well under 2mn) Here are 3 cars you can consider http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=2557 (Carina GT) http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=2544 (2000 Civic) http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=2545 (Glanza!!!!!!!!!) Looking at those three I think the most bang for buck would be the Glanza, but incase you are searching for a 4 door sedan either the Carina GT or Honda would be cool: Actually of those two the Civic looks like good value for money as it's year 2000 http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=2551 Here's another car you could consider (Imprezza)

AE110 I think we have a unanimous verdict

have you considered the Tata 207 Diesel? They are powerful, reliable, and a brand new one could be got for a million or so. Besides, they are capable of going upto 300,000kms without major engine work (I think it was Duncan who said that). True it's not as cool as a toyota but what the hell it would do the job and the price is right. If I was buying, I'd buy one of those.

Thank you everyone for the kind words.. ..experts.. please ADD TO/EDIT the post. Give your suggestions and tips on what YOU look for when buying a used car