Crosswind

Just cross-checked Wikipedia. U r right. According to Wiki, the SOHC version is a MPFI engine and the DOHC non-turbo version is a GDI engine. Anyways, do u have any idea about how the GDI engines in Volvo cars are holding up in Sri Lanka?

@Don/Volvo4life, How are the GDI engines in Volvos (4G93/4G94) holding on to the petrol in Sri Lanka? Did u have trouble with the GDI pump in any of the cars? The reason why I ask this question is in the past I came across a Proton which was built on the same platform as Mitsubishi Charisma/Volvo S40 and had a 4G93 engine. Decided not to go for it because of the GDI factor.

If it is a Mitsubishi Charisma engine, the engine codes should be 4G92 or 4G93. That should tell you the type of engine in the car. @volvo4life - Isn't this a GDI engine?

Sometime back I met a guy in a service station, who got himself a Nomad. He was talking about the need of an engine tune-up saying that it doesn't pull too well. When I asked him whether it was a recent occurence, he said that it's been like that since day 1 Seems the 4G13 engine is grossly underpowered for that thing. Among other things, he also mentioned that the screws that hold the dashboard and consoles have a nasty habit of coming loose. His odo reading was around 7,000 I think.

Afaik when Daihatsu stopped producing the old Terios, they sold off the presses which were used to build the body panels. Chinese went and bought the old Daihatsu Terios presses and voila... 1 year later we have a Chinese SUV @Don - Perodua has a proper technology transfer agreement with Daihatsu. On the other hand, Zhejiang (Manufacturer of Nomad) just sources parts from here and there and comes up with a product.

Are you serious????? It's a waste of your permit. If you really calculate all the factors such as maintenance, fuel economy, resale value after 3 years, u will find that burning the permit and buying an old Terios (like Jdnet said) is much more cost effective.

I learned a lot from Jdnet's DIY posts and I'm pretty sure thousands of other members did. In fact, I tried out a few of those stuff myself and they worked for me. In the meantime, all you do is post irrelevant comments and history lessons. Maybe u are much more experienced than Jdnet or anyone else in this forum, but for me (and many others), it's as useful as a rectal itch. Please don't ruin it for the rest of us by posting useless comments on valuable posts. Mods, if it is possible, I would like to request you to remove irrelevant comments (including this one) from this post. Thx.

You could try that and see - try with different vendors like IOC, Ceypetco and Laugfs (Laugfs sells Ceypetco petrol but use pumps imported by themselves). U can mix 95 and 90. It won't hurt your car (if it is rated for 90). 95 has more benzene than 90, that's all. Few months back there was a big discussion about the difference between 90 and 95. Search for it in the forums.

@virensti: M13A Engine doesn't need Octane 95. Recommended fuel is Octane 90. Pumping 95 will not make any difference except for the dent in your wallet. What u perceived is either a different problem or a purely psychological effect. (Both my Chevy Cruzes got the M13A engine)

Thx JDnet and Stig. Definitely nothing complicated. Just an annoying problem for which I need to take a couple of hours off a working day.

Buddy here's a bit of an advice. Try not to overdo things with your first car. First up, get to know the basics of owning a car and get used to the dent it puts on your wallet every month (fuel, service, repairs etc.). Let's say u buy a car and go all out on a modification job. First up, if you don't know what you are doing, u r going to end up doing everything the modification people say and end up spending a lot on things u don't want, cos somebody else said that it will look nice on your car or it will make your car run better (usually that somebody is a baas who's good at convincing laymen). Then halfway through, u find that u run out of money and dad refuses to fund you. Then u will end up having a half-cooked car that is neither here nor there. In this situation u wont feel like driving the car cos it looks like sh*t and u can't sell the car cos everyone else thinks it looks like sh*t. Remember, bodykits and interior jobs cost a lot of money. If you want a good paint job that too will cost a lot. So my advice is to take it easy. Try not to overdo things with your first car and if you are dead set on a mod job, keep a few lakhs aside for that.

Its a Proton. It's got a mechanical lock. The springs of the part that latches on, is not working. I'm pretty sure it aint a hard job but I'm not the best with DIY things.

This has been discussed many times before. Please use the search function. U will find answers to both your questions. One of the discussions is here:

I got a really annoying problem in my car. The boot seems to pop up when travelling on a really rough road and the boot lock (dicky lock) seems to be the culprit - i mean the part that clips on the boot lid to the body. Any place to do a repair job for this one?

U won't find any such websites. You need to call the agents for prices.

My advice: Take a serious look at the Levin, which is currently in the classifieds http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=48446 Its AE110 so most of the parts will be available in every corner of the country (except for body parts) You don't need to have a bodykit to make it look sporty. Looks pretty sporty by itself Any makabass in any garage should be able to repair if u get any problems It's 1996 so relatively newer compared to some other options u got It will do well over 10kmpl Its a sheep in a wolf's skin... but what the heck... u need the looks and the economy... so that's exactly what u gonna get

Can an RX7 or Supra do over 10km/l? There are few sporty looking cars advertised in AL classified. You might wanna give them a go: http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=48446 http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=47380 btw bodykits and fart exhausts can be fitted yourself.

The guy has already changed rack ends. That particular nut (steering rack inner bush on the driver side) you are talking about, should be adjusted at the same time the rack ends are replaced. If the mechanic hasn't bothered to do that, then my advice is don't go to that mechanic again.

Here's a true story about what happened to a new hybrid owner (a guy who's used cars for over 20 years) very recently. A guy I know imported a hybrid prius and proudly talked to his friends and neighbors about his eco-friendly choice. Next day, when he tried to take the car out of the garage, not knowing where the reverse gear is, he accidentally shifted to forward and pressed the pedal. Unfortunately, his teenage son happened to be standing in front of the car at that time and the son's legs got wedged between the wall and the prius. On one of his legs, the calf muscles got ripped in to two from knee to ankle. The rip was so bad, the calf had to be stiched and had to be re-stiched a few days later. Now that prius is for sale. My appeal to 'hybrid' owners - please please learn to drive your hybrid. For the rest of us - stay as far as possible from hybrids.

True. If the rack ends are changed, wheel alignment also needs to be done. So I guess wheel balancing + wheel alignment (both only for front wheels) should most likely solve the problem.

Before trying anything else, do a wheel balancing first. Should cost u about 500 bucks. Go to a place where they got the proper equipment, like the places in Malay Street.

In fact, they are the cheapest of the cheap. If a person buys an Maruti 800, that's cos they cant afford anything better. If they can afford a Vitz for example, they will defa go for the Vitz, even if the Maruti does better on fuel. On the other hand, those who buy hybrids are ones who have the money but who want to penny-pinch on petrol. Expect them to spend millions and count cents. For me this is the cheapest of the cheap cos they got the money but still want to economize.

Thank you soo much for the valuable history lesson boss

The core of the car (chassis and all mechanical components) is still made in James Holden's hometown - Adelaide (I've actually been to their assembly in Elizabeth). U r right about the peripheral components such as lights and beadings coming from China. This is the case with most of the cars anyway. It actually creates supply chain efficiency and allows to keep the prices in check. However, the real problem is the rising Aussie dollar which makes it very tempting for GM to import more parts from abroad.

There's this place called macvud car styling. Guaranteed to make your car look like a fishing boat. Search on the net to find them