mensoft

Hi All, Im gona do DIY on my starter motor clean and re assemble. Some one told me it will help to solve this by cleaning the brush and the motor parts. I just need to know for the reassemble can I use the normal grease or is there any special kind on grease for these kind of accessories. also will it relay solve the problem by cleaning the motor ?

More than explain in technically what I can say is your a very lucky person that you arrive home safe under this situation.

Just to know something related to the same. what can be the issue oil light is on while the engine is idle or slow but it get off when accelerate ?

Its nothing to do with head gasket. coz if i try push start the car same time when starter motor is stop working engine will start even just 1/2 turn.

Hi All, I have a new problem coming up is my starter motor is not working when the engine is hot. I can start my car without any issue in the first start itself but when i run it and stop somewhere and when try to start its not cranking the engine. i can here "tick. tick." noise from the motor when is try to start but its not starting. first i thought its a battery but I checked my battery is good and the battery cables also tied well and charging also ok. Any way if i keep the car just about 10-15 min then I can start the car. the starter motor is working again. What can be this issue ? Do i need to replace the starter motor ?

Hi, I had exactly same issue and couldn't run the belt at least 500 km. and the battery charging issue when headlights on. when I went to electrician he removed the pulley and polished it with the machine. cost me about 2000 and so far no issue.

Hi firebird, Does this trend is comes with the MMC or volvo engine ? Any way once I drive this micro trend and from a person who brought it brand new and he says its volvo engine and there are with Mitsubishi engines too. only the body is local assemble. but while driving wt i told him is still i feel more smooth in my old Lancer than this new micro . the clutch and gear shifting feels like TATA bus. if its MMC engine parts are everywhere for sure. All the cars I had was Mitsubishi but very old vehicles (coz im a poor man ) but still those are better than brand new Chinese, Indian vehicles. This Trend car owner had to replace Wiper motor . Alternator and starter motor once he have drive in the rain in a flood road. car is not even one year old. also he had a big issue with AC compressor. he did't use the at least 2 years he sold it.

Hi, Great Job. Can you please share the workshop location and the charges ?

Hi AL Experts , I think its tome for me to change distributor cap and rotor. I just saw in the web always go for a cap and rotor color except black. and the cap tips which are made with brass. aluminium tips will make more resistance. Do I need to change spark plug and wires too with the rotor and cap ? what's is the point of go for color except black ? also if someone can tell the general cost for those parts for Lance A72, G11B Engine 1) Distributor Cap ? 2) rotor ? 3) Ignition Leads ? ( Do they really need to change ) 4) Spark Plug ? Thanks.

Whats the reason to replase such a great english engine ? There is MM factory at galle . http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/10372863/Morris-Minor-still-big-in-Sri-Lanka.html

fatjoe are you gona bring MM ?

Welldone Schiffer, though even it looks like simple job when we go to service centers they charge some nice amount for this . any way thak for sharing the pics and process on AL . and i always like this DIY jobs. I did the same thin twice but didnt mesure the coolent and water ratio i just put entire coolen bottle to the radiator and filled rest with water.

if you put a tiny drop of break oil to those screws it will loose otherwise try WD40 . brake oil may be not advisable on carb. get the advice from Rumesh88 also if you gona try with break oil. and it have to clean the parts very well if you put the break oil.

Hi, if the Mac says carb is block . try DIY. If im you now i have started removing the carb to peaces peaces . then use the same abro carb to clean the parts . take the carb gasket to spare parts shop and take carb repair kit. assemble the carbulater with new parts . start your car and keep to worm tune it bit and feel the difarance .

Hi All, Has anyone done this ? http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/plugsidegapping.html is it really works Side Gapping Spark Plugs ?

Hi Rumesh, Making the timing light and testing seems bit complicated. as per the post 30 "B" is working only when accelerate. So I just connect it to the distributor advance. seems its works fine coz yday i just tried some climbing and tried brake in middle and climb again did't felt any difficult like early . and its gaining speed beter than early when accelerate while climb. any way lest try a long run and see how it works . Again Thank you for all the support .

Oh I feel about makabas. Any way lets try fix this too my self.this the current scenario. as per this picture I'm sure yellow line is the one your telling about "manifold vacuum port near the idle mixture adjustment screw" . and the other end of that just loop. it may be not clear in the picture so ill highlight it in red.basically as this way its just like close. is this end has to loop this way ? i feel that also wrong. see below Next then i Google and found these two. :sport-smiley-004: So according to above two pictures shall i correct mine as below ? Can you give some advice .I really appreciate your help and spending your valuable time for helping me so far im really success with all the changes i made on your advice . Thank you so much again.

Hi Rumesh , Here the picture of distributor . there is one vacuum line. but its not connected to any. but as i check in the YouTube this call distributor vacuum advance right ?. and i open the cap and checked it works when suck that line. So where i should connect this ? Also there is another gadget like this i hope there too should come some vacuum line . or it it something else ? what is this part ? And here the whole picture of carb together with distributor .

As I Remember there is no any vacuum lines connected to distributor . let me take a distributor picture and post here. any way my engine is G11B. if you have original A72 vacuum diagram will really help.

Rumesh , As i promised here the pictures of my carb in final stage. this is what its as now and its working fine. Ill try to explain as much as i can becoz pictures are not that clear. i marked those lines ad A B C .... . In this picture "C" is like just close. its not connecting to anywhere. mean other side of that plastic filter is not connecting to any place. but as lt looks there was two lines in the other side of the plastic filter but now those not connected to any places. and i just check that filter (from the mouth) its almost block from every side. its no use at all. what is this ? in my earlier post this the one i marked in red arrow and my one doubt it this . In this picture left side "A" is Y connector and other end goes to the other side of the carburator . "A" in the middle body of the carburator only i asked it hasto be closed or is it correct this way. This is the other side of the "A" connection. this also im bit confuse ill explain it in next picture . As per this picture is "A" correct ? is "D" correct ? this is the secondary and to open in high does it has to connect with "A" ? this is the way it was even before i remove the carb. but this way if i fully open the primary the secondary is not opening. im sure diaphragm is working and if i suck it (from the mouth when engine off . coz no other option to check) and try fully accelerate after like 3/4 of the primary open secondary also start opening. so then am i ok in this side or does it need to do any changes . Any way "D" currently connected to secondary has no any sucking even fully accelerate or not . "A" has the suction when accelerating. I would like to really thankful for all your support . please help me on this too its all work fine as now but i feel those vacuum connections are not in proper way.

Rumesh, I found the issue and fixed myself and now everything perfectly fine. I removed carburetor form the car and assemble each and every to pieces, pieces . ( was thinking in worst case to bring the used carb rather spending money for repairs) any way after removed i compare old parts with new . the two main jets are really different in sizes. the new size are really big than older ones. but cant use the old one those are damaged when removing . so i chek those jets in spar part shop and in one please i found those and one is just Rs.30/= only so any way i brought from 4 from different sizes and fixed the small one to main jet . and fix the carb. After few min from the first start there are water drops from the exhaust. and i able to slow the idle another bit and clean the spark plugs too. i can feel the different when accelerating.and now all is well . and just a tiny hole in a jet made a this much different. sorry for the pictures i couldn't take photos bcoz not able to touch the camera and this time i did all alone. otherwise i could post those as DIY carb project. Any way thanks for all your support . later ill send you the vacuum line diagram which i doubt .

Hi , Pair of wire to make coil and put on a jet ? is this advisable to do ? Just look at this http://www.elpasoparagliding.com/PPGTechInfo/MiniPlane/HRServiceNotes/CarbModification/jetmod.htm

Hi Rumesh88, I started my DIY. and i adjust float level now the smoke comes out is fairly less than early. I hope that will be fine once clean spark plugs. but the time is the very less i have to spend for this so have to wait till weekend to do the rest. also must run and see sometimes might need to change the gasket coz i open the carb again. next thing (i cant find the exact picture of my carb) In bottom of the crab as i marked in yellow there is Y shape connector and its connected as per the picture. Is that close connector has to be close or where should it connect ? Next In My crab this connector is closed with end cap. I doubt this vacuum hose connections. what is the correct way to connect these . sorry for the i couldn't post the exact images .

LOL. wt a fly ? it just like Smoke generator. i dint feel to ride it or even to start. looks like pouring petrol. yes . adjust the mixture that and this all. see this sample picture . (not exactly my one just got from web) in the middle of the float bowl there is one with sprin (how this call jet or needle ?) now the fuel level is above that. i think its more than 1/2 .and i brought a new repair kit so all the parts are new. only additional to this is where carburetor fit to the engine with 4 nuts there was a gasket but cannot be used. that newly made with gasket paper. i don't t cause an issue . Generally what is the correct level have to be ? i would like to give a DIY try Since as i see there is no such a thing just few peaces to fix properly. coz i feel its any way F$*% . so if my DIY not success ill go for a expert. Finally is this calculator available to buy as new unit ? how much will it cost ?

Hi All AL Experts . Simply I would like to say now my carburetor is F _ _ _ EDUP. The issue was no due to fuel pump. it was not enough petrol goes to engine. to fix the issue had to change the float level in carburetor. but now i have serious issue. now when i accelerate hell of black some comes out from the silencer. for the all past ages i never had a this kind of a issue and my carb was properly tuned. now all of this thing finished. I don't mind spending again for a carb repair kit. but i don't want to MAKABAS to touch my carb again. what this issue can be and how to fix it ?