GAPAUTO

Hi Watchman Well i was told his prices was high from ppl who got things done, thats why i wanted to get some idea about the normal price for this kind of job.

Hi All, I recently replace all the door rubber beadings which goes around the door in my 1978 lancer wagon. After replacing the beadings i was in trouble of getting the doors closed properly expect for one. So i went to tinker who adjust the doors and he had to do some body scrapping to make the correct gap for the new beadings since the previouse owner had done a tinkering job without replacing the beadings. For the front doors he had to remove the sider fenders (or may be called as mud guards) as well to adjust the door hingers. For this job the tinker took 3500 LKR. Does this price is exceptable or is it way too much for this job ? Thanks in advance, GAP.

Well normally i do neary 150km per month. And the oil level drops 5mm on the dipstick 2 months after top up. I doudt that because the oil is burnt in lower rate. cause still i don't have burnt oil on my plug's electrode area. but have some little oil on the threads when i take them out.

Sorry, i forgot to mention . Its a 1978 Lacer Station Wagon, with a 4G12 engine. About the milage i'm not much sure wether the number are acurate or not, but the reading are around 12K.

Hi, When i accelarate the car after wating at a stop light i would see some smoke comming out. This only happens it waits some time on idle before taking off. But when accelarating on the go, even in WOT i don't get smoke rather than a anoying pinging sound which i would forget that i herd on WOT for now. The idle mixture is adjusted according to the lean drop adjustment. And even when ideling i don't see much smoke coming out. This happens regardless of the AC on or off. What could be the problem that i get smoke only when taking off after idleing for some time. GAP

Hi, I have a lancer station wagon which has a 4G12 engine. Recently it gets hard to start when the engine is hot. When i run for around 10-15km and switch off and after 30min time if i try to start i would have to crank the engine for about 30-40 sec to fire it up. Pressing the gas pedal doesn't help either. I change the ignition kit (points, condenser) 4 months ago, and the Coil one week ago. If the engine it cold and sitting for even a week without starting, it will start at the first cranking. What can be the causes for this problem ?

Hi, In the picture that is my carburetor in 4g12 engine. I'm looking to identify the idle jet. Here the small red boxes highlight 2 jet which suppose to feeding fuel to each barrel. In the middle which i have highlighted with a larger box contain a spring loaded value and if i take it out, there is another jet attached to end of that value which is smaller than other 2 jets. Is this the idle jet which feeds the idle line ? Thanks in advance, GAP.

Thanks for the reply frnd, Just check the the amount of amp as well, and as you said its around 4 mAmps. But for the first time when i connect, i can hear a initialization sound of the cd reading head i guess, which takes a bit more current. but once its done the current drops to the 4 mAmps. I guess that normal .

Hi All, I'm trying to wire up a kenwood E202 CD player. This was a reconditioned player so i didn't go the original wire harness. But the player has some wires already connected to speaker channels and power lines (by soldering to pins). Well there are two wires which are red and yellow which both need to have +12V as the person in the store told me. But after some searching i found out that yellow is +12V which should come from the battery, and red is +12V which comes through ACC (Accessory) line. So if i don't connect this yellow line directly to battery i found out that the player don't keep memory of the presets and eq settings. So if i keep this yellow line connected battery will that hurt my car battery a lot? because i only use the car in weekends and i normally start the engine in middle of the week and run it for around 5min. Thanks in advance, GAP

Hi All, I have a 1978 Mitsubishi Lancer Station Wagon which has Leaf Spring suspension in rear. Recently i had to replace 2 leafs since they were broken in driving side of the vehicle. While this replacement they replace the bush as well since they were already broken. So they replaces 2 bigger bush which comes in the front of the leaf spring and 2 bush at the end of the leaf spring. But now there is a sound coming when the vehicle travels. The sound is like the sound when you get when you over tight a bolt. Could this be because some thing is over tight or is it because the bush are new ? A more closer sound comes if the pres the rear of the vehicle up and down when it is parked also. Thanks in advance, GAP

And is there a good way that i could check the fan clutch operation of the engine cooling fan. Because i recently replace the cooling fan clutch gel. Not sure there is problem with that

Well Do i need a separate AC fan sitting in front of the condenser and pumping air in to the engine bay ? Because this might effect the way the engine driven cooling fan works right ? because the AC fan is pumping air in a different speed and engine cooling fan is sucking air in a different speed. So this might cause the engine cooling fan not to have required amount of air that it tries to suck in. Looking forward for feedback from experts.

Hi, My Car doesn't have an original AC. When i on the AC the engine heat rises in a significant amount. I would say it will get nearly double. So when i took the car to a AC repairing place they told me the fan is turning in the wrong direction. They told me to come on another day to fix it. Well i check the fan and my findings are as below : The radiator is cooled by the fan which is operation by the engine (Mitsubishi 4G12 Engine). in front of the radiator i have my AC condenser. In front of that i have the AC fan. When the AC is on it seems the AC fan is pumping air into the front side of the vehicle. But the radiator cooling fan push the air into engine side which cause the air to be sucked through the radiator. So my question is does my AC fan operate on a wrong direction ? Thanks in Advance GAP

Hi, I want to know the safest way to adjust the dizzy while the engine runs, because when once i tried to hold it from the dizzy cap i got shocked. i have seen some who do it by holding from the vacuum advance canister. But what bother me is high tension lines to plugs goes close that area. Any suggestions ? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Croozer for the info, Well in the worst case will it be possible for me to go with the second option of the fiber job to patch the existing cover ?

Hi, I have a 4G12 lancer Wagon, The plastic timing belt cover is bit out of shape due to heat and some places have some small damage areas. Is there a place where i can find a good shape timing belt cover for this model ? i live around Kadawatha and i herd there are some places around gampaha, but still couldn't find the correct place. And i looking into another option of repairing the existing belt cover by doing fiber job. Will it be possible and is it OK to do so ? Thanks in advance, Gayan

I have Lancer Station Wagon which has a 1.4l engine. The car runs smoothly without the AC, but when the AC is on, idle runs on rough even though the idle speed is increased a bit. But to get of that roughness idle has to be very high which seems like engine is no more idling . When the AC is on the engine temp goes high a bit which is very significant. Cause if the AC is off the temp goes down. Does my compressor might or can have a problem which will put extra ordinary load on the engine so, it cannot handle that load even in increase idle. This rough idle seems to increased step by step up to now. If i take the car to a Auto AC will they able to confirm it ? Thanks in advance. GAP

Hi Guys, I did bit of a research on the EGR values. My engine has a EGR value which seems to have 2 vacuum inputs and the thermal value is build to gather with the EGR it seems. Because i see a iron rod kind of a thing (seems like a thermostat) is fixed under the EGR value which connect the other end to coolant inlet.And also i think one vacuum input must be a ported vacuum, and the other must be a manifold vacuum. So i guess this has a double diaphragm EGR value. I have this VCV, a green diaphragm kind of a thing which is fixed right hand side of the carb by a bracket which has 3 inputs. From the things i found out it's operation is when a vacuum applies on the single input side, the other two inputs will be switch to gather. Its seems there are used with the charcoal canister to handle vapor. Well the problem now is, how are the connection are made on this engine. I know there are lot of people here who has vehicles with this same engine. And i appreciate if one could post some picture so i can figure out how the connection are made. And the above details are what i found by reading articles to emission control in that era. I heard that connecting the EGR will avoid lot of emission, which i have in my engine now, i got failed the emission test once and the next time they did some tweaks and get me passed. And also EGR will decrease the petrol consumption of the engine at cruise modes. For now mine does 10kml with the AC on. But i guess it must be more than that right ? But if I'm wrong in any above detail please correct me. I guess if they are working better i connect them because it will make a saving for me from the fuel perspective and will save the environment as well from polluting Nitrox gases.

Do you have a 4G12 engine on it ? If so would you help me out with the last mention problem in this thread ? And by the way what is the fuel consumption of your car ?

Well that's the thing i also think that it should lean when screwing in, but for surprise idle doesn't die when screwing in, it dies when screwing out. it seems after adjusting things I'm getting nearly 10km per liter with the AC (none stock AC) in low traffic condition. Well is that all i could get out of it, or can i get more mileage with this model. Well the thing is mechanic had connected vacuum lines here and there, i had the VCV front line opened, which i close is using a sealed tube. and i have another diaphragm kind of thing which i think EGR or some thing which is left hanging. The power jet diaphragm is connected to one location which i'm not sure whether its correct. Any one who has this engine with all these hoses connected correctly can post a picture of it, that would be really appreciated or may be some guide line to find my way even.

Hi Guys, Well the idle mixture adjustment is kind of a needle type at the end of screw. So can that kind of a adjustment increase the mixture when turned in and lean it when turned out ? just asking because I'm querulous to know how it is done.

I think we can only adjust the volume control and the adjustment on throttle lever which will adjust the idle mixture. Other said modes I'm not sure where to adjust. But I have herd that there are pre defined jets and mechanisms which will work on OWT (open wide throttle) to rich the mixture. But one thing i'm not sure is, on sudden OWT situations i get a light gray smoke and goes away. i'm not sure whether this is normal or not ?

Well I tried with retarding the timing a bit (around 1mm distance) that got rid of the pinning sound. But now the idle doesn't run smoothly. So I have to increase the idle speed from the card. Well there are some vacuum lines which goes from the carb to different components, but all are blocked by putting small iron balls inside other than the vacuum advance line. I'm not sure about the five stages, i just read from the Internet about the basic stuff and the experience I had with my VW Bug. And I remember the last time my carb was tuned by a Mech he did the same. Please can any body give some information about the 5 stages ? And I notice that if i press the accelerator deep I see a light black smoke after few seconds. Is that normal or some thing to do with timing ?

Well Sorry i forgot put the car information . Well it's Lancer station wagon, Engine : 4g12 Orion, YOM : 1978.

Hi All, While I was driving last week, I start to hear a engine pinning on low load. Well if I describe it more, its like when I drive around 50kmh and I just step on the gas pedal a bit to increase the speed I hear a pinning sound. Well when normally if we accelerate the car suddenly we hear this sound, but it goes away once the car is in the required speed. But this doesn't go away like that till I release the pedal a bit. Well what could be the problem for this ? timing advanced ? Gayan.