MV-5

then owner has already saved 20,000 liters. if the average petrol price per liter is 100Rs over the period , then he has already saved 2 mil. Not bad , ha.

Since the information that has been posted is correct ,This sort of thread (formatted closer to article) should not have led us to this kind of conversation. if first two lines describe kelums view on car modification, still MD or any member has right to question that and since this is a open forum ,kelum should reply that (still we are not in a position to guess kelums intention, MD might have interpreted it incorrectly). @Supra_natural what Trinity was trying to say is we could have given high priority to this "format", then we could have forgot about first two lines and Moderator involvement was needed. that means MD has right to ask the same question again and again in different ways, but other MDs post can be categorized as OT (my view). Kelums effort should be appreciated, and the question has been asked by MD should be answered.

where is Rumesh88? i think he was online yesterday, Irosh, try to PM him and invite to join to this thread

Thanx MD

Can you see the component in this image?

Thanks all for your valuable comments, considering all your comments and estimated cost, i decided it is better to keep the current system. so i need to get removed these broken studs. i think the it will not be easy to find out new studs. i am not quite sure about size, but it might be M10-1.5x88mm @Don i have attached a image, red circle shows a one broken stud, and you can see a stud which is not broken, third stud is not visible in the image. you can see that bolt is fixed by just few threads. I don't think that i can find these studs from normal Hardware shop. if it should be lathed , then i don't have an idea about the material that it should be done (should resist for high temperature). Members , any recommended workshop (might not be specific to automobile).?

thanks for the comment, could you please PM me , 1-2 reliable places (name + location) ?

thanks kelum, where is it located (WEPR)? if the cost is arround 30K , i think i would not do that. this is the story, there was a oil leak through sump, then mechanic needed to remove the flange(part connected to manifold) to change the sump packing. it was attached through 3 studs and bolts to the manifold. at a glance these pipes are corrode(but in good shape) . when mechanic tried to do this . two things happened. bracket was broken (in flange), and it was really difficult to remove 3 bolts from studs , then result was two studs broken. but broken parts are still there. but any how they mange to do the job and install the flange again with bolts to broken studs.but they ask me to go to a good place and fix this properly. so i though that if the cost is around 15k , then it is good to replace the total exhaust pipe system (with a "light" beat :-) ) anyway this broken studs can not be easily removed.(there might be easy ways, the only solution i can imagine is "weld" a nut to studs and try to remove it using a box spanner). Now you know the story... your suggestions?

short form for Stainless Steel , i am sorry if it is not common usage in the context :-)

Hi All, I am going to replace the exhaust system of my car completely to SS (but excluding manifold), Highly appreciate your ideas and suggestion on following factors, Good place Rough estimation on cost? is it a few hours job (go, fix and return)? If I am ready to spent 30-40% extra from original cost, what are the kind of alterations (slight modifications) which is worth to do? Any hidden factors that I need to consider? Vehicle : 2000 Mazda 323 BJ6P , 1.6L NA Manual

Heater is the secondary cooling system for the engine (when you are away from home, if you like to bring your vehicle home with a sort of heating problem, you can try heater )... :-) Now ur car has a heating problem.

Hi cpaBATH, What are the other mixtures that you have tried and failed before you finding this. if this is the first trial, then how did it come to your mind this "ratio"? do you think that this is the optimum "ratio and mixture" or are you going to do some more "trials and error" attempts? Good Luck!

Thanks for the update machan. now we have a conclusion!. A thread with a conclusion is so helpful as a reference (later) :-) .

Hi,ash_raz Any update?

This is a very good suggestion. if you open an FD , return will be roughly 0.6 Million , for the insurance and registration i think you will have to pay 0.1 Million. so if you buy a car for 5.0 Mil and sell it for same price after 1 year, loss is 0.7 Million, i think you can rent a good car ( long term ) for roughly 70,000/= permonth then 70,000x12 = 0.84 Million then this solution has already minimize your loss(just 140,000 LKR)

Thank u for the descriptive answer.

Hi Crosswind, I tried to Google to get spec for this vehicle , but found that this model has lot of variants, http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/facts-and-figures/ford/focus/hatchback-2011/ if you can identify this variant at a glance , please specify it or just mention the power and torque figures. i am just interested (no big deal -)

This is just a suggestion. First we might discuss that whether it is useful or not, any hidden problems etc… Suggestion: members would post following information regarding the vehicles they own, latter if our member need some reference to compare some parameter related to vehicle(probably when we feel that our vehicle has some problem) then members can use this thread. If we can follow a common format then we can use some software tools to extract these data if it is necessary. But the relevant vehicle should be in good condition (that means there is no point of posting information related to which has heating problem or misfire) What kind of information: Meta information: Vehicle make, YOM, model (should be specific, ex: even though impreza is a model name, it will not help us), engine capacity, AT or MT or TT, variant related information.any MODs you have done Parameter: Based on last vehicle emission test ,all parameters specified in emission test result sheet, If vehicle has RPM peter, then IDLE RPM when engine is not reached to operating temperature (morning start). Engine Temperature meter position when it is saturated (as a percentage, ex: 50%)

"scan" will help you. i faced the same problem. scanned,Tool will directly convert the fault code to "readable" message. mine it was "missing rear left wheel signal" .then check the sensors, connecters and all those related to given message. simple!

this is a kind of sign about leakage of head gasket. but not necessarily

If you can post some image, forum members will get a more clear idea. or at least try to explain which part exactly got corroded. this is a document i normally refer before i am going to do my 5000Km inspection. i remove 4 plugs and go through this document (since i am not good at keeping these things in mind :-) ) web link

so you have already set your mind to Allion 240 and Axio 141. then other members has pointed out that both vehicles are somewhat smiler based on the factors you have given. then weight your preference, Ex: say 95% for Axio and 99% Allion. then if you got a better deal for good Axio which outweigh the 4% , then if i were you i would buy Axio even though i rather prefer Allion as a model. since preference is not "Yes" "No" thing.

then i think "AC+ R,D +Alternator" load is too heavy. if it is AC: then compresses produce too much resistance Alternator: check the battery first and Alternator . R,D : that means auto gear box has some kind of issue (which is not probable). Still engine mount possibility is there . when Alternator extra load has been released (after 5 min) you might not feel the vibration level.

AC+ R,D will increase the load to the engine. sometimes this might nothing do do with "cold start". cold start means first time you start after few hours. then your alternator also consume additional power from engine (that's why alternator belt make noise when starts vehicle and got disapear after 10-20 seconds). now AC+ R,D +Alternator will increase the total idle power demand. but anyhow this demand should be provided at same idle RPM (more power at same RPM). option is that ECU should detect this and it should increase the throttle position internally (not mechanically) with the help of other components(ex: AC idle up). but due to some problem, your car ECU doesn't do this or additional power demand is too heavy from the level that ECU can handle . check your battery also, if it drains out quickly, that is also probable root cause. try to do what Rumesh said

that means car has a RPM meter, can you see a noticeable(100-150 ) RPM difference between N,P and R,D, please specify the values. normally when engine operates at very low RPM engine mounts cant tolerate the vibration. if your car engine operates at correct RPM then there is a "mechanical" reason for vibration (like bad engine mount, gear box mount .....) if the RPM is too low then your ECU might get wrong inputs due to some issue (sensor failure, malfunctioning something in fuel path or lot of other possibilities).