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Thanks friends... I think my question may have been a bit confusing.. So to summarise.... Bought the van: no ABS light at all, odo meter works Two weeks later: odo meter stopped working. My only aim here is to get the odo fixed. Put van to garage to fix odo: garage tell me odo meter works through ABS. However ABS is not working and ABS light also disabled. Garage 1st fix try: fix sensor to gear box and have that feed the data to odo meter. But they find there is no place to fix sensor in gear box. So this fix is abandoned. Garage 2nd fix: They try to fix it through ABS. They manage to get ABS light on. (However ABS light doesnt turn off as ABS is not working). Then they replace ABS controller card. Then odo meter starts working! Yippee! After two weeks of driving: odo meter stops working again. Bummer!! Now I remember another electrician told me.. to make odo meter work have to replace ABS controller. But it wont "last long". Looks like he was right. Again went to garage today: They said will try to work out some thing.. dont know what.. Any other advice is welcome.. just need the odo fixed for a long duration.. Thanks...

Hello Friends, I bought a KR42 diesel convert. When I bought the van the meter was working fine for couple of weeks and then stopped working. Had it fixed with much effort. ABS light was not on since when I bought it. Garage did something and ABS light got on (and ABS not working) and speedo meter was fixed. They said they replaced "ABS Control Box" (not the ABS unit) (charged me 7500/= sans labour for that). After about 2 weeks now again its not working! Can anyone advice me? I need to get this fixed. And the van does not have a speedo meter wheel in the gear box to fix a sensor and fix it that way either. Any idea why this keeps breaking??

Thanks people! What a lot of useful information! Any possibility of seeing a side view comparison with pics?

Hi Community, I did a search on the forum but nothing came up. With regard to Toyota cr42 there is a term used that sounds something like "just low". (Please edit the subject if necessary as I am not quite sure how the term sounds) It is about "usa thattuwa" I guess. Can anyone explain this term and how to identify it? Word is that they modify to lower the usa thattuwa and sell.

Thanks guys for the inputs! Much appreciated! Been hunting my self.. and found that kr52 is petrol 4wd.. and fuel efficiency (fe) is insanely low... and my car sale friend said that even if I were to convert it to diesel it would have lower fe than cr42. This seems to be because of added weight from 4wd components.. When I said about lower maintenance costs.. I didn't specifically mean about the engine only.. cause I believe that a diesel will have more expensive suspension parts, larger radiators etc. I suppose then the two vehicles to compare would be kr42 and cr42.. (just to add some additional info this is the vehicle I had my eyes on.... https://######.lk/en/ad/toyota-noah-kr52-2007-for-sale-colombo-18 )

Hi All, Can anyone help me with the following? I am looking at a Toyota kr52 auto gear to buy (NOT kr42). This is the vehicle I believe.. https://carfromjapan.com/cheap-used-toyota-townace-van-2006-for-sale-5bbb28d032d6ae1f0ff3b92b 1. Is it a difficult vehicle to sell in the second hand market? for example compared to cr42 (diesel) 2. Compared to a cr42 (or comparable diesel.. cr52??) how will it fare on running costs? cr42 repairs/maintenance would be expensive and frequent? kr52 repairs/maintenance will be very low? And would the kr52 low maintenance cover up for the high fuel consumption against repairs/maintenance for cr42 on long time usage? 3. Does the kr52 struggle with pulling power if loaded with 7 or 8 people and luggage? 4. How is the availability of parts?

Some of us drive older vehicles. Even with the best intentions there are instances where wearing the seat belt is simply forgotton (no alarms beeping as a warning). I could be paranoid but could the system be trying to dicourage usage of old vehicles? It seems that motoring is becoming a tedious task and sometimes I feel it is better to take public transport even though they are jam packed..

hasmax, how about starting your engine. Does it take a lot of effort? I was once faced with this situation... so had to make a decision about whether to do an overhaul or fix a new engine.. went for a new engine.. and so far the new engine hasn't given me any trouble. suggest you go for a new engine.. it's other components will hopefully be newer and last longer.. for example.. alternator, power steering pump, compressor and optionally gear box too.. However from advice received by me if you do an overhaul properly with genuine parts you could get a engine like new, (but not other parts).. and then there were some who said however you repair your eninge it will not be of the original state.. but that's second hand opinions.. so find someone who had done a successfull overhaul and then make a decision...

Isn't the law coming in to effect on 1st Oct?

By the way I managed to fix the seat belts.. all by myself If anyone want's to know how to fix theirs PM me and I will try to help

Hi all... I hope this question is appropriate.. I used to wear seat belt.. then they belted up... The problem is that the belts are kind of stuck and won't come out.. any idea where I could get help to fix them?

After reading this I think I will pass on super diesel..

Jami what do you mean? You mean a higher sulphur content makes more of the injected fuel to be burnt?

what about the sulphur content? It is less in super diesel right?

tks fookie, care to explain why? I was thinking this would be good for the engine with more power as well as lower smoke..

Hello all, I've been pumping normal diesel to my corona which has a 2c engine. Is it safe to pump super diesel in to it? thanks for any info regarding this..

Tks Nilantha.. any idea about the price difference?

tiv This engine you swapped is a 3c van engine? Any idea how much a 3c car engine is?

also check the flexible where silencer connects to the engine.. what is the engine type?

A bit off topic.. I once had front suspensions repaired and worn parts replaced etc.. In this process the two ball bearings of the wheels were also replaced with good quality ones. I asked them to put original and best stuff. IIRC they were N*K After a week or so started getting some noises from one wheel like clickety clak.. It increased over a couple of days until the sounds got really scary. Had it rechecked and to everyone's surprise several metals balls had split in half! What could cause such damage? A manufacturing fault? Or fakes? How could one rely on the quality of even so called quality products? I thought these japanse stuff were with 0 defects.. remember the old story about japs putting in separate faulty items to fulfil allowed number of faulty items..

As already said the quality of the oil seal is important. Further from my experience the oil seal could cut in to the metal and thereby create a gap at that point which would make oil leak. If this is the case could be an expensive repair job. I "guess" this gap would have to be filled by by metal and ground to fit. I am not sure whether this could happen in a petrol vehicle, but as my understanding goes this a common ailment in diesel vehicles. In your case it could well be a bad quality oil seal. I used to remember the good quality oil seals had a dark brownish colour, while there were low quality ones that had a lighter red or pink hue.

Yes those are what I am talking about.. did you put a couple in? I wonder how long those things last.. not very long I believe..

Umm.. no I don't think they are shock mounts.. It's those rubber cover like things that protect the exposed parts of the cartridge from environmental elements such as dust and sand..

Talking of shocks.. shouldn't you replace those rubber cover thingies? I forget the name.. are they shock boots? I found that these do not last as long as the shocks.. probably doesn't get even close.. are there various qualities of shock boots available?

Thanks sumiya! this is a big help