toosea

Some cars have A/C vents that vent air directly to the windscreen. In my case there are number of buttons to change where the A/C draft should come. To the bust area, to the leg area, both to the bust area and leg area and then there's the button to send it to the windscreen. If at all if you have missed this you could select an appropriate button or lever position or whatever to reduce or stop the AC flow to the windscreen. But most probably this feature is missing from your vehicle. In which case a solution would be as suggested above is to keep the AC blower to a not so high value..

Does it have a windscreen heater? If so that would solve your problem. Otherwise there "may be" some addon you could install. But need to be careful as it could put an unnecessary drain on the battery. Usually windscreen heaters come with a timer and automatically turn themselves after the windscreen is demisted.. If there are any other options I would like to know myself too...

By the way Ramee.. Your question conjures up a mental image of a mad max like friend of yours driving while you get bumped around and holding on to your dear life...

Indeed... it is possible to change gears at lesser speeds and i've never heard mine knock, only more vibration. You need minimum clutch balancing skills and I've come to love this aspect of diesels. But I was advised against changing gears at low speeds and was told to keep the vibration to a minimum. So my driving style changed and I always keep the engine quite revved up (say when changing from 2nd to 3rd 2500 rpm or a little more), when cruising more than 1500 rpm.

Is he driving a diesel car? Currently my take on this is if it is a diesel car I have been told and am following that advice, of accelerating until the next gear change is smooth as possible. This makes the engine sound go up to a level that sounds like the engine is straining. I have been told that this is the way to drive a diesel car and this way the engine will have much less problems. But it is not a case of "lellatama paaganawa".. though it might depend on the condition of the engine.. For a petrol I believe similar practice should be followed i.e. make sure when you change to the next gear there is enough speed so that the engine runs smoothly and doesn't knock. But for a petrol I think it is not needed to make the engine accelerate that much as a diesel.. Of course all this applies to manual gears.. no clue about auto gears..

Does this apply to diesel cars also? My experience is for a diesel car it is about 2 and rarely 2.5 years max.

By the way did you pump until it was hard and difficult to pump?

I think you better attend to this problem quickly, otherwise you could also ruin your starter motor.. not to mention the wear on your engine during these long cranks to start the motor..

Those leaks on the nozzels could be a problem.. Why not get that fixed first and see? Are all the nozzles leaking like this? A shot in the dark.. before starting after a day pump the hand pump on top of the diesel filter and see if the pump is easy to pump.. if so pump it a few times till it gets tight. then give a try to start and see.. Then it "could" point to the diesel leak you have.. (If the pump is pumpable for several pushes that could mean diesel flow is broken at some points, where exactly I am not sure and whether it applies to this particular problem)

Having read that older thread I'd like to post my experience on windscreen scratches.. My original windscreen was broken and replaced it with a reconditioned one.. this one had wiper scratch marks and in a recent rush of blood I used compound on the windscreen to get rid of the scratches and get a shiny new windscreen. But once done I found new swirly scratch marks on the windscreen. Now it is difficult to see in the night also. Didn't know compound could do this to glass.. but perhaps the problem could have been because there were some pieces of rust (the compound tin was a bit old) in the compound that could have been the culprit. I paid a visit to cle**n pa*k a few days ago and a supervisor took a look at it and said their polishing will not remove these marks and said the other day another vehicle with less scratch marks did not come out well either. On the phone the guy said that it will be about 3000 to do the polishing. They use some diamond powder to do the polishing.. Any comment on the compound issue? I guess I will have to replace the windscreen if I want a better view..

So you figure VIC is the only filter worthy to be used? Sort of lowest common denominator? Also what does KGM mean by OEM. I know it stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer.. suppose I want to get an OEM filter then how do ask the service centre for one these?

Me thinks it could be a rivet?

I use Sakura or whatever the cheaper one available for my diesel car as I replace the filter and oil every 3000km... Feel that a change of oil filter is better than using a reputed one like VIC for several oil change rounds is better.. but of course this is for a diesel.. and imho..

I got my "tenkiya" done by these guys.. they welded together several pieces to get a correct fit. But after some time it is leaking again from the seams welded on to the core part. I was not very happy with the job they did. Perhaps because there didn't see to be any supervisors that day. I've seen tanks being made anew with I think piththala (brass). (Or is my memory fooling me.. it could have been copper). There was a place in wijerama that was doing it. If I have no option the next I would specifically go for this solution. Before I tried with these I guys I got a fibre job done on the crack.. but it soon gave way in few days.. I think nowadays it is difficult to find recon radiators with metal tanks.. By the way great site and forum.. first post here..