LancerL

Can be welded or apply glue. But it will be a temporary solution as with time, heat and the pressure it could start leak again. Best way is to replace particular core or the radiator if possible. Calculate the loss you get with over heated engine repair or the replacement. Option is up to you.

Sorry for the re-post as I didn't got a proper feed back from the earlier one. One of my friends having Toyota Cami Jeep, Auto 2001 module. One day he was telling me that he suspect that there is a gear changing issue in high speed and wanted me to have test drive. I will put simply what I have observed. I figured that from 1st to 4th gear change by sound (Nway D is 1st) and I reached 80Kmph and kept there for 1-2 Min's without moving the accelerator. The Rpm was 3500 and it didn't went up or down. What I have observed with other cars I have driven is that in top gear at 80Kmph the Rpm was 2000. But here it's 3500. So I doubt there is a issue in changing to top gear. Also the Over Drive was on and when I offed it at 80Kmph Rpm went to 4500. Could it be a normal situation or there could be a issue?

Can somebody share their experience pleaseeeee.....

Thanks for the post, sure will keep posted With regard to STFT and LTFT values, does that mean the injectors are in proper order?

@Rumesh88 thanks for the post Got a free time today only to take readings. Attached below screenshots of short-term and long-term fuel trim values after about 30mins drive and kept idle for about 1minute with A/C off. I have taken Timing advance and Engine RPM reading also for further findings. I could not find the O2 sensor reading with the tool. Please click on the image to view. Is this within the safe zone? If not what are the values should be?

I do agree with you, tho it is not the same make and model, in general that is what I observed in several other vehicles. Anyway please share your experience on this.

One of my friends having Toyota Cami Jeep, Auto 2001 module. One day he was telling me that he suspect that there is a gear changing issue in high speed and wanted me to have test drive. I will put simply what I have observed. I figured that frm 1st to 4th gear change by sound (Nway D is 1st) and I reached 80Kmph and kept there for 1-2 Min's without moving the accelerator. The Rpm was 3500 and it didn't went up or down. What I have observed with other cars I have driven is that in top gear at 80Kmph the Rpm was 2000. But here it's 3500. So I doubt there is a issue in changing to top gear. Also the Over Drive was on and when I offed it at 80Kmph Rpm went to 4500. Could it be a normal situation or there could be a issue?

Why don't you give an ECU rest before all by disconnecting positive battery terminal for about 30mins and reconnect? (You will need to reprogram your Audio setup and the clock. very Easy thing) This will reset the ECU for factory defaults and having drive in your regular pattern for about 100-200 Kms it will automatically adjust it self for optimum consumption. Hopefully your problem will go away. I have seen and heard that most of the tuning places will not do this and the vehicle owner will not benefit maximum out of the tuning. It is a best practice of doing this after every tuneup or a performance enhancement to get best out of it.

Repeat

Repeat

Also it contain chemicals to do above job. So the quality of the chemicals differs by brand. Try to go for a internationally recognized brand instead of locally contaminates.

@DVI Loosen plugs can make fuel smell as it leaking air fuel mixture out from cylinder at compression stage. Check your A/C vent set to fresh or recycle, if it is fresh obviously it sucks air from engine compartment side where it could smell petrol. If it is recycle, then there could be a gap or a hole somewhere it leaks air to inside. Also could be a bad door beading.

As far as I know Coolant is Coolant and only differ is color as you cannot mix red with green or the other way. If you have a doubt flush the existing and refill it with a known brand. Recommended to go for a branded ones like A8bro.

Cleaned the plugs and wires. No miss found up to now but slight vibration in operation temperature is still there... It feels to the steering wheel and floor board well. Could that be due to one or more injector?

I got the miss again about two weeks ago. That was a night and I checked to see what could be done on next day morning and found that one injector power wire has been tensioned by the accelerator cable by some way. So I have corrected it and as a extra mile.I've remove all injector power connectors and clean with a contact cleaner and refixed. Up to now it didn't given any miss as before. But the slight idle vibration is comes and go time to time. As discussed in another topic was able to pull all plug wires today and planing to clean both plugs and it's top on tomorrow. Will keep update the status once that is done.

Ultimately was able to pull it out a while ago. What I have simply done was brought a 'metal binding string' from a hardware shop, insert it inside the deep, rubber plug base and twisted. Then the other two ends twisted with a screw driver rod while keeping screw driver horizontal (where I could pull it from my both hands) It came out without a big hassel. Method was so simple but took time to get it to my mind as I was busy with finding a tool for it. Thanks Rumesh and Davy for the post which direct me to think an alternative.

Make sure that you have proper air pressure on your tyres according to the manufacture.

Katubedda Aut*o Mi*rage also started accident repairs this is exactly in front of "German technical college" There is one manager called Bandara, a very helpful guy. talk to him and get a quote.

I tried all the ways possible including twisting, Didn't try inserting a screw driver as it could damage the wire. Yes all four are same.

Then most probably it could be due to loosen belt. Replace the belt before get in to A/C.

Guys I need to clean my spark plugs and before removal I tried to pull the wire from the plug and looks like that is tighten a lot with the plug or the chamber. I there a specific tool to pull this as cannot do this by hand. My engine comes with the deep socket spark plugs.

Did you experience that when car is idle as well? If so try to locate the are of the car where smell comes in (No scanners for this, only scanner is your nose )

My rear brake shoes are due for replace and when I was searching for options found that there are lots of places around who does relining brake shoes and clutch plates. I found the contact number of one of the reputed place in town and had a call to them to get an idea. When I was asked about the reliability of their job and the safety, he clams that relining is better than going for a Malaysian or China manufactured liners as those uses only adhesive to fix liner to the metal and the quality of the adhesive is poor and the risk to fail the liner is high when time passes as liners generate huge heat when braking. How it gets different from their job is that they put some extra Revert and quality adhesive to fix the liner to its metal frame which is very much solid and long lasting. Now I'm confused with what to do I mean to go for a new set of liners or do a relining? Please advice which is the best option to go with your experience.

Hi Rumesh, thanks for your valuble inputs. I didn't had a time to check the TPS but I was able to test the the air/coolent tempreture at cool start and it was low like enviorment tempreture (I canno't remember the figures) and when i start the engine it went up gardually. One more thing I did apart all above is I have removed two plug wire tops ( I could not remove other two as it was so tight) cleaned the rubber with a dry towel and re fixed. Also I coulden't remove plugs as I didn't had that thin box wrench. After it I observed that I didn't get the miss or the petrol smell. Had a run to Matara on highway and back to colombo also and still it looks fine. I doubt it was due to a loosen plug wire.... Anyway will keep posted the status. Thanks