LancerL

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Rumesh88" data-cid="280969" data-time="1438771208"><p> While I agree with what others have pointed out above, the slight vibration could be due to an issue with one of the sensors like TPS or MAF. Of the two TPS is the easiest to test (just a resistance measurement over its movement range) and the most likely to fail intermittently (because it is mechanical) and also the relatively cheaper one to replace. Hence while you are at it get the TPS also tested. It is normal for the air/fuel mixture to be rich on cold start and become lean as the engine warms up.</p></blockquote> If TPS or MAF defective that should indicate Check Engine or should be found on the scan? If air/fuel mixture rich when starting, can it be smelled Petrol or visible black smoke?

Did a scan from a Bluetooth ODB2 tool I ordered from eBay and no error codes found.

Yes peugeot407 is correct! Make sure you get the EFI cleaner and not the carb cleaner.

It's not a big deal, watch this below there are many brands available in the market. I used B*G. 3*M also will be fine. Don't spray too much inside the throttle as it could damage sensors like Throttle Position Sensor or Mass Air Flow Sensor. Also you don't really need to brush it as it also could make damage. the cleaner will take care all the carbon deposits.

Sorry it is AE 110.

I have Corolla CE110 and from recent some times when it start for the first time of the day (specially cold weather) it starts in one turn, runs rpm nearly 1,500 and then a engine miss comes for like 10 seconds then disappear. At that time if I bent down and smelled silencer it gives a little Petrol smell. But in next second the miss disappear, it smells as perfectly normal with water steam. No issue in pulling power or anything else and no different in fuel economy also. Only observation when engine hot and with A/C off there is slight vibration sense on steering wheel. That also random and not always. Is this something that I have to pay attention or it could be something that is normal. But I haven't experience this before. Please share your comments.

A friend of mine have one and I drove it sometime back. very comfortable, it doses up to 16kmpl in highway according to him. But does only 9-10 in city. With his experience Micro services is very bad and they don't even properly wash and vacuum in the service. Since it is brand new and having almost every feature in a latest car and with the price I would recommend to go for it.

Hi All, Thanks for you valuable comments. I have brought B*G Throttle Body & Intake Cleaner and planing to do the job on following weekend. Product description says that it is not harmful to any sensors inside throttle body, that means can I spray this while engine running or should be sprayed before start.

Can somebody please advice a best alternative to clean throttle body at home. Rather expensive branded cleaners, can it be clean by using a little amount of Petrol or Kerosene as I have seen most of the mechanics use above to clean Carburetors and other parts of vehicles to remove carbon, oil and dust. I have gone through some online videos and looks it is not a big deal of cleaning the body and the butterfly plate using a liquid, a used toothbrush and a small microfiber towel. Your valuable comments and experience are welcome.!!

You mean rich mixture is possible at cold start? (Is this called automatic choke?) I could not check when engine is hot will update soon on it. But i observed a engine RPM goes nearly 1,300 at startup and comes down and get stady to about 800 with this.

Filter and plugs were replaced about 5,000Km back. but injectors have never cleaned since this is done only 40,000Km. I heard from someone today that this EFI cars comes with an automatic choke where it gets turned on at each startup to make the start easy and gets off once the engine stable. I'm not really sure about his statement, please correct me if I'm wrong.

One of my friends has a brand new 1500CC petrol car with EFI engine which just completed 40k on mileage. One day I observed that there is a little black smoke coming from the exhaust and in the same second with starts of the engine it disappear immediately. I asked him to do the same for couple of times and each time it comes for a bout 1-2 seconds and disappear with the engine start (Engine also starts in like half turn without any issue) I worried is there anything gone wrong with the EFI system or this is the usual way of EFI systems. Please advice. Thanks.

Dear friends, I’m planning to buy Geely MX7 MARK II (Manufacture year 2012-2013) sold by micro and looking your valuable advices on below areas. Fuel consumption in city areas and outstation After sales support from Micro Spare parts availability in company and outside Eg: Panchikawatta Any known manufacture defects – some people complains that this has some radiator fan issue. Please share your experience. Thanks, LancerL

As you said I've decided to buy all the parts by my self, hence I have a confidence that I will use all genuine parts and it will be for low cost. Thanks for the reference but my car has half away removed and the place you refered will be little far from my place.

Dear The Don, thanks for the quick response. Small correction, he will not remove the top of the engine like head and pistons. He said that it can be done by rotating it up side down and removing from sump side. That's what I feel it is not reasonable, hence last time one of my other know mechanic has done a full engine overall for me for my previous car for the labour charge of 8,000/-, unfortunately he migrated to a different town with his family, a grate guy that I have ever missed. Anyway this guy is located close to Panadura.

Hi members, I’ve done many testing and change lot of parts like Plug wires/spark plugs also tuned engine many time and couldn’t solve this problem. My last option was to take it a mechanic hence I couldn’t solve it by my self at this time. The mechanic has started it couple of times and observed the problem, after that the put that on to a gear and move it to back and forth and started it, this time it could rev up to max RPM and also the idle was stable. Then he stated that it is a problem with engine timing and ask his subordinate to remove timing cover and observe timing chine and wheels. He was correct, the wheel which is connecting to crank shaft and driven timing belt to tappets has a small play with the crank shaft and due to that it changes timing. When you engage it into a forward gear and take the car back, it will rotate the crank to other side and reduce the play where it will let engine to start with correct timing. So the mechanic guy said that to solve this issue he has to take full engine out from the car and turn up side down and takes the crank shaft off from sump side. He has two options for this. Send existing Crank shaft and the wheel connecting it to a lath workshop and fill damaged areas from white iron (I don’t know the correct scientific word for this) grind it and rebuild it. This will cost nearly 5,000/- according to him and least more than 10 years. Buy a recondition Crank shaft and replace it. This will cost nearly 10,000/- according to him. For other seals and packing it will cost nearly 5,000/- For this entire job his labor will be 15,000/- Friends, please advice me on followings. Going with option 1 is advisable? Cost for these areas given separately is justifiable? I mean is he trying to make me fool and grab more extra money than standard price for this job? Please help me on deciding. Your valuable advices are always welcome. Thanks in advance. LancerL

Hi Friends, Waiting for your valuble advices. Thanks, LancerL

Dear Ramesh, If I rev yes it will go up to 200RPM and immediatly dies. bu if I kept it on idle, it will stay more time than rev like 4-5Sec and dies. If it is a vaccume leak, it should dis only on rev to a high RPM only, right? My other worry is why it stays at idle only for 4-5Sec and die. Also in next second if I start it it will start and does the same.

Hi friends, another problem!!! My 1983 Lancer (Orion engine) giving some issue, it was perfectly alright after last tune up on couple of months back and giving water drops also on after start. But last Monday evening when I start it and reverse from my garage to garden, it got stalled. I tried many times to start and keep it on idle or to rev at least up to 3000RPM. In idle it will stay very solid only for 4-5 Sec and dies. If I rev the engine it will go up around 1500RPM and immediately dies. I cannot figure out whither this is due to an electrical issue or an air/fuel (Carb issue). Please advice me with your experience. Thanks in advance. LancerL

Sylvi/Ramesh... I got the point, where as I was thinking it was a problem with the alternator.. Anyway Thanks for the prompt support..

Dear Sylvi, Thanks for the quick reply. It is Lancer Fiore 1400CC. What you trying to say that the load giving to the engine by alternator is based on number of electrical equipments running at a given time? In other words fewer lights and Fans low load and more lights and Fans high load?? Also on which stage I have to keep idle speed with load or without load and what is the recommended idle speed for this? Regards, LancerL

Dear Members, I'm experiencing an engine RPM drop on idle speed when I put Head/Tail lights or Viper on my car. When I switch off one of them it will coming back to normal idle speed again… What can be the reason??? Your valuable inputs please. Thanks in advance. LancerL

As far as I know there is a lack of parts for this in SL also if it available that will be quit expensive comparing to other manufactures. This is what I heard from people talking...

Thanks Don..