Fixzit

Try using a thicker engine oil at your next service. . Might slove your problem. .

As you have mentioned you have already done an ATF change.. and you only have a delay changing into 4th gear I think you need to get your transmission repaired by a good mechanic.. also if you can be more specific about where the vibration comes from as in the steering wheel or you can feel the whole car vibrating. . Experts here can give you better advise. .

Because you had a leak in the cooling systems ( inside the heater coil) before, im sure your system didn't get pressurized enough to maintain the correct running temperature. . Now that there is no leak, the system will get pressurized and in that case its normal for the engine temperature to go up slightly. As long as the pointer is at the middle or bit under on your guage, you have nothing to worry about. If it goes above that, better get it checked with a mechanic. One more thing, its a good idea to make sure there is no air trapped inside your system when ever you do a repairs related to cooling system cz this could easily overheat your engine.

Check your heater coil or pipe lines for the heater. Car heater works with a water supply from the radiator. Maybe that could be the issue for water inside the car and the mist on the windscreen. Usually the hot water will not circulate unless you select the hot mode, but a faulty valve could send hot water without selecting the heater mode. If your heater is leaking an AC technician can fix it. If you don't use the heater you can permanently close that water lines and that could fix your problem. If you don't use the AC and you dont have a leak on the roof or windscreen, there is no other way for water to get inside the car..

As a rule of thumb. . A timing belt must be changed every 100,000kms unless the manufacturer specified otherwise.

Go to a panel beater and ask him to have a look. My guess is that your car might had an accident and who ever fixed it before didn't do a good job.I had a similar problem with one of my cars and it turned out to be the rubber seals around the boot did not made a proper water seal.. (due to a previous accident repair)

1.As a general rule, a Timing belt must be changed every 100,000Kms unless the manufacturer specify a different interval. 2.Complexity varies slightly from model to model, but unless you really know what you are doing, take it to a qualified mechanic. You do not wants to mess with the timing.. 3.Go for a genuine parts, that's the only way you will know that the belt is a good one. When it comes to things like T-Belts, don't try to save money buying cheap low quality parts or you could end up spending way more than you saved. 4.I'm not too sure about your specific model, but in some engines, It is advised to change the bearings and tensioners which the T-belt runs on top of, and also it's a good time to check on your water pump.

If they haven't taken off the dpf..I hope they have taken out the the filter inside.. otherwise without a regen cycle it will get blocked and cause you more problems than before. Its better if you can find out what exactly they have done. As for mine I took the whole dpf off and straight-piped it..sensors are still there but the pipe has been designed in a way that all 4 sensors get the right signal so that the ecu doesn't bother running a regen cycle. .

Hahaha good one... 120 im not so sure but a bit more than 80 should do..unfortunately..

Sorry I didn't notice that cz I was using the mobile version of this forum most of the time. I hope its better now.

Glad to hear. . How much they charge for it by the way?

Can feel a slight increase in power when I hit the peddle to the floor. . Had no trouble what so ever passing the emission test.. and fuel economy has gone up by 1 to 2kms per Lt.

1. If you have a turbo timer, basically your engine will not stop as soon as you turn off the ignition. 2/3 . Exactly what Don said !!!

I do agree with Jdnet and crosswind that our temp range in SL is not so variant like many of the other countries and we do not have a Winter to go with the "W" of a multigrade, if you don't live in Nuwaraeliya or somewhere up country more likely the range would be somewhere between 21-35 degrees all year around, but a multigrade oil has much better flow at cold starts than a monograde, and it will lubricate the engine and the turbo faster at start than a monograde. I have heard that there is a considerable amount of engine and turbo ware at start-up due to lack of lubrication until the engine oil is pumped through out the engine. Any thing which makes the oil run faster, I'd go with it. Also when compared, a multigrade oil will be thicker at high temps than a monograde because it's viscosity properties are artificially modified providing better lubrication. My user manual suggest that I'd use 10W-30 or 15W40 for the temp range we have in SL and I would stick to it. I had a diesel van and I always used 15W40 on it. After a bit more than 300,000Kms my engine got sized thanks to a careless friend and a leaking water pump, once i had a look inside the engine, i was surprised how good the condition of the internal parts were, that engine could have done another 100,000kms easily. I believe i owe a fair bit of credit to the engine oil that i was using because i only changed oil every 5000kms. I could be wrong, but I'd stick to the user manual and my experience. I'm sure most guys here are more experienced than me, so my advise, do some research, talk to qualified mechanics and make your own choice. Thanks for your input guys. Cheers!!!

Most dealers have no idea how dpf works. They have no idea what difference it makes when you use a wrong engine oil in a dpf model. There are two main advantages using CJ4 standard. It can tolerate oil contamination better. If your car goes to limp mode due to a dpf blockage then there is a chance some diesel will end up mixing with engine oil. This could be from a very small amount to few liters. Also All the additives in CJ 4 gets burned at dpf regen temps where other types contains additive which does not so they block the dpf. I couldn't find any CJ4 oil in SL few months back, I don't bother now because I took my dpf off..

I would change my filter every time i change oil too. I don't go for very expensive brand with the filter so they don't cost much to replace. It's funny when you think about it, you buy a car for few million Rs and would not spend few hundred to change a filter at every service. I personally change my filter every time with a good quality engine oil and I think it's more important to do so on a Turbo vehicle. I think yours is turbo too. one more thing you should be worried about, You said they billed you for SAE30 engine oil, that's not what you should be using in yours. You need a Multigraded engine oil either 10W30 or 15W40 depending on whats recommended for yours. Use a Monograde and your engine and the turbo will ware prematurely. Hope it hadn't done too much damage already.

If you have a DPF then Delvac would not be ideal, then you need a CJ-4 standard low ash oil where Delvac is only Cl-4. It's better to stick to the grade on user manual, only go for a higher grade if your engine's burning oil due to the oil which has been used is too thin. Delvac is 15W40.

If you know how the DPF works you wouldn't say so. How do you think the DPF re-generates itself? By burning extra fuel to increase the temp inside the DPF.

Could be few issues.. most probably one of the following.. System is low on refrigerant. (Due to a leak) Condenser's not cooling enough.(Due to blockage or low fan speed) Compressor's low on compression. Take it to a A.C. mechanic and he will tell you exactly as soon as he hook up a gauge to your system..

Cost of an air filter? Are you serious? just call any auto parts shop or a car service station with your car details or filter no. They will tell you exactly!!!

The delete pipe i bought was $350 which is about 45k in Rupees...made with stainless steel..Ask Toyota Lanka which oil they use..hopefully they are using the correct engine oil.. CJ-4 standard oils are bit expensive though..a 4lt can could easily be more than 10k.. there have been many cases here dealers messing up the vehicles with dpfs. Some mechanics have no idea about these..

Agree with VVti.. probably your engine is in good condition because he used a quality oil.. you can try with a bit thinner oil if you really want to. As long as it dsnt burn..you should be ok.. if it does.. go back to previous grade..

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14491-dpf-diesel-particulate-filters-explained/#entry225160

DPF (Diesel Particulate Filters) What they are and how they work. Ok a bit of info about the DPF from Wikipedia... A diesel particulate filter (or DPF) is a device designed to remove diesel particulate matter or soot from the exhaust gas of a diesel engine. Wall-flow diesel particulate filters usually remove 85% or more of the soot, and under certain conditions can attain soot removal efficiencies of close to 100%. Some filters are single-use, intended for disposal and replacement once full of accumulated ash. Others are designed to burn off the accumulated particulate either passively through the use of a catalyst or by active means such as a fuel burner which heats the filter to soot combustion temperatures; engine programming to run when the filter is full in a manner that elevates exhaust temperature or produces high amounts of NOx to oxidize the accumulated ash, or through other methods. This is known as "filter regeneration". Cleaning is also required as part of periodic maintenance, and it must be done carefully to avoid damaging the filter. Failure of fuel injectors or turbochargers resulting in contamination of the filter with raw diesel or engine oil can also necessitate cleaning.[1] The regeneration process occurs at road speeds higher than can generally be attained on city streets; vehicles driven exclusively at low speeds in urban traffic can require periodic trips at higher speeds to clean out the DPF.[2] If the driver ignores the warning and waits too long to operate the vehicle above 40 miles per hour (64 km/h), the DPF may not regenerate properly, and continued operation past that point may spoil the DPF completely so it must be replaced. (End of Wikipedia) DPFs There are two main types of DPFs. One type which works only with EGTs or Exhaust gas temperatures and the other being the once which comes with a built in diesel injectors. To burn the soot particles inside the filter, DPF needs a temperature of around 600 degrees Celsius . An average diesel engine may produce about 350 degrees at normal working loads which is not sufficient. When a DPF re-gen is required the ECU will raise the EGT to around 600 depending by type of the DPF either spraying diesel at the exhaust stroke of the engine or if the DPF has a built-in injector then using that injector to burn more diesel just before the filter to get the required temperature. Still, only a diesel spray will not allow the ECU to get enough EGT at the DPF. That's where the load requirement comes in. This maybe different with the DPF's which comes with a built-in injector. For example ISUZU trucks uses this extra injector method so in most cases they can be regenerated while the car is stationary(These type of DPFs comes with a manual re-gen button too). If the blockage is too severe you might have to drive it at a high speed, but for DPF's which rely on EGTs only, needs to be driven with the required load until the Re-gen cycle is finished. Once these soot particles are burnt they become a white dust and get blown out from the exhaust. This is a lot less harmful for the environment than black soot particles. I would also like to point out that Audi and VW TDi engines uses an highly effective DPF system where the DPF is situated at the exhaust manifold itself so it's much easier for the ECU to increase EGTs using less fuel and more efficiently due to the higher temperatures which are already present for the Re-gen process. I don't know why other car makes do not use the same method. Probably due to a patent right with VW. Why do I get the DPF light on ? As the DPF filters soot particles from the exhaust, they tend to block the filter. How this is measured is via 2 pressure sensors built in to the DPF before the filter and after. The ECU always compare the two pressure readings. When the DPF is blocked, the pressure reading before the filter becomes higher and the reading after the filter becomes low creating a pressure difference. Once this difference go beyond a pre-specified value, the ECU decides it's time to Re-generate or clean the filter. However this is not the only way the ECU decides to make a re-gen. Some ECU's are made in a way that it monitors your driving habits. For example if you have not driven your vehicle in a speed more than 70km/h for more 20-40mins with-in last 300-400Kms, the ECU will decide to start a Re-gen cycle regardless of the pressure readings. ECU will also take the readings from the 2 oxygen sensors before and after the DPF to get an accurate reading of what's happening inside the DPF. So if the DPF is blocked or the ECU assumes that it could be blocked, That's when you get the DPF light on your dash. What Happens after the DPF light comes on? The DPF light indicates that either your ECU is currently running a DPF re-gen cycle or your DPF could be blocked due to above mentioned reasons so the ECU tries to run a Re-gen cycle as soon as possible. Once the DPF light pops up, depending on the manufacturer and model, you have given a certain amount of Kms to get it cleared by getting your DPF cleaned. For example for a Nissan Navara D40 you get about 160kms limit. If you don't take the necessary steps to get your DPF cleaned by starting a Re-Gen cycle, your vehicle will go to a stage called the LIMP MODE. A diesel car will go to limp mode for many reasons or faults. DPF block or a fault is just one of them. This is a safety measure taken by the ECU to avoid further damage to the components of your vehicle due to the fault. What Happens in Limp mode? The ECU will cut down power and stop the RPM rising above specific number. Ideally Limp mode is there so that you can drive your car slowly with minimum load to the engine taking it to a mechanic and get your problem sorted out. Driving long distances in Limp mode can cause serious damage to your engine as well as making things worst with the problem you had to go in to limp mode at the first place. So in case your vehicle goes in to limp mode due to a DPF block, take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. They will do a manual regeneration and clean the DPF. If your filter has been damaged or blocked beyond repair you will have to replace it. How do I avoid limp mode due to a DPF blockage ? Once you get the DPF light on the dash, you need to act as soon as possible to help the ECU to run a DPF re-gen cycle. The way to do this can depend on the type of DPF you have. If you have a switch to turn on the DPF Re-generation, follow the instructions in the user manual and do so. If the requirement is to drive the vehicle at a high speed for 20-40mins then this should be done as soon as possible. If the DPF is not taken care of it could get damaged, they are very expensive to replace. What's the relationship between DPF and Engine Oil? Car manufacturers recommend that you have to use an engine oil which is specially formulated for the use in cars with DPF's. This type of oil is known as API-CJ4 specification or Low-Ash Oil. The reason behind this is that when the DPF-regen cycle is running, as I mentioned before, the ECU will get the injectors to dump fuel into the cylinders while the engine is on exhaust stroke to get the EGT's up, but as a side effect, some of these unburned diesel ends up going passing the oil rings and mixing with engine oil. Also modern diesel engines are equipped with an EGR or exhaust gas re-circulation What this does is to get some of those exhaust gas back in to the inlet of the engine to control the cylinder combustion temperatures. This is purely to keep the NOx level down because high temperatures produce more NOx. So when the DPF Re-gen cycle is running, all that soot particles and unburnt diesel is going right back into the engine contaminating engine oil. Also we all know that every engine burns a small amounts of oil while its operation, so the engine oils which were not made up to CJ-4 standard may contain additives which becomes soot after burning but will not fully burn at the DPF at 600 Degrees. This may block the DPF permanently and the Re-gen will not be able to clean it thus clogging up the DPF. Unfortunately I was unable to find a DPF compatible engine oil in SL so i ended up using CL-4 Standard oil which is the one before CJ-4 (M*bil De1v*c MX). . That's why the DPF compatible engine oil is very important. Otherwise as soon as the oil gets contaminated passing a level it loses its lubricating properties and also it becomes thinner in viscosity so the engine will wear out at a considerable rate. How do I avoid damage to my DPF and the engine? Few steps, Use good quality diesel (Low in sulphur and low carbon - Less soot - Happy DPF ) Super Diesel in SL Read the label at the back of engine oil container and Use a high quality engine oil. Just because it's a big brand does not mean it's up to the standard. (CJ-4 recommended but if you can't find it at least use a high quality brand with a higher rating as much as possible, do not use CG-4 spec as it contains additives which are a lot harmful for your DPF) Try to avoid too many short trips, if this is not possible.. at least do a long drive for 20- 40mins at a higher speed every few 100 kms. Change oil at regular intervals. Advantages of DPFs Very low carbon emissions compared to diesel vehicles with no DPF as some DPFs are nearly 100% efficient in removing soot particles. Disadvantages of DPFs Poor fuel economy when compared with a no DPF model of the same engine. Less power when compared with a no DPF model of the same engine. High maintenance costs. inability to drive short distances continuously. I hope this gives you an idea about how DPF's work.. and hopefully with better understanding and better maintenance will save you some avoidable repair costs. Thanks.

Sylvi, i bought that from a engineer who designed it after a fair bit of research. Actually delete pipe is not that complicated at all.. its just a normal pipe connecting to the dump pipe and the exhaust bypassing the dpf.. but it's the location of sensors which matters. Specially the O2 sensor which is located in a way that it gets the exact reading as the dpf is clean.. I have ordered another one for my Navara which I'll get in few days. I'll send you some pics. I've done the dpf delete on my Pathfinder which is the same as Navara and it's working fine. I'll show you the actual pipe once i come down to SL in Dec if you are interested.. I'm planning on doing a post regarding dpfs and how they work on this forum once i get a bit of free time..