Fixzit

I took the Dpf off myself using a specially designed dpf delete pipe for my specific model. I'll check whether the same is available for yours. Let me know the YOM. Basically if you have a diesel injector built-in to your dpf it's not easy to take it off without causing any problems. If you do find someone to take off your dpf.. make sure he knows what's he's doing otherwise your car will keep going on to limp mode.. that's not good for the engine. As you said you get a dpf regen every week or so, its a good idea to use a good quality engine oil and do regular oil changes as regen cycles contaminate your engine oil..

It's not that easy to take off.. I've done it on my Pathfinder and so far it's good. There are 2 main types of dpf s and with one type you can't delete it without getting error codes. Fortunately mine was the other type so after some work..it's gone.

It would be easy if you can let me know what is the model of your car. Generally when you get the dpf light on that means either there is a block or the ecu assumes your dpf could be blocked so it try to initiate the cleaning process again and do not want you to disturb. Once you get the dpf light on you need to drive your car at 80kmph or higher for 20-40mins preferably nonstop. Once the dpf is cleaned the light will turn off. You will burn extra fuel while the cleaning process is on and see some white smoke from the exhaust..this is normal.. how ever i do not know why you get the check engine light blinking.. maybe that's specific to your car model. So better to refer the user manual. Hope you got your answer..feel free to contact me if you have any more questions.

Valvoline do Have a special range of products as high mileage oils. You can try that or use a monograde oil with grade 40 or 50. 20W50 is a multigrade which means it will have a 20 grade at cold and 50 while it's hot. Monograde will have the same thickness when cold and hot..try a different brand if you can't find it in valvoline.

When you hooked up the scanner? how was the live data? TPS, Calculated Load, Fuel trim..ect are those values normal for your engine at idle? and also I'm sure you have looked on to this matter..just asking..this is not related to your A/C idle up not working properly is it?

If I were you I'd run the car with a even thicker oil for as long as i can if i don't have any start-up issues or overheating problems until it comes to a stage where i do have to rebuild it, and then do a proper overhauling replacing all major parts. I personally think that replacing oil rings is just a temporary fix.. might as well run it while i can and do a full rebuild later on rather than spending twice.

I agree with Don, Limp mode can do this to an engine, and your car will go to limp mode as a safety precaution due to a fault or faulty reading from a sensor which could well be a faulty sensor too. It's a bit unlikely for a Turbo to go off just like that because of an oil change unless you run the turbo without any oil in it ... You wouldn't loose that much power so that you cannot get the car up more than 20Kmph just because of a turbo failure. As i said before i think it's something to do with a sensors. Try to pull the DTC. That's the best and easiest way...

I don't think this is related to oil change.. maybe by mistake they have done something which affects a sensor or sensor reading..best thing is to get it scanned..pull out the dtc and move from their. He should not try to drive the car to Kandy not knowing what exactly wrong with it. Try calling the agents. Maybe they have experience in similar case with the same model..also you can ask them how to pull out the code manually so that you can explain them where the problem is..

I do not recommend using a higher wattage globe.. as Jdnet mentioned, excess heat could melt your lamp covers and also..you might drain the battery while night driving with all other acc on if your alternation could not keep up with the extra amps your new lamps demanding..

Well..for higher mileage cars you can go even thicker as in 20W50.. but then i don't think you'll need that thicker in yours. 15W40 will do. Sometimes it's not just mileage but how your car has been maintained before and what's the oil which has been used before also matters. As far as i know Toyota genuine engine oil I'd the same as Castrol so you can use that too if it is saving you some money..I personally use Castrol or Mobil.. but it's upto you..go with the brand you trust..

"""""The latest problem affects the power-window switch on the driver's side, which didn't have grease applied evenly during production, causing friction and sometimes smoke from the switch."""" weird ..now how would a switch smoke due to friction given that you only use it for couple of seconds each time either holding upwards or downwards?

This is just a guess..because I haven't worked on this particular model, Agree with terra about the reverse signal to the player to turn on video mode, because the socket seem to have 3 active pins, and the video only needs 2 to work, It could be as in one of the pins in that socket acts as the signal to player to turn on aux video mode. In that case you need to hook up your camera to a supply from your reverse light so that when you put in to reverse the cam will turn on sending a signal to the player to go into Video...(This is just a guess and I have seen players going into video mode as soon as they detect a video signal without a separate signal from reverse)

If you have a 4 pin connector like this at the back..you'll need an adapter cable to connect video.. http://www.google.co...,r:16,s:0,i:115

If you don't see a leak anywhere under or around the engine, then the only way the car can loose oil is through burning. You cant be sure of a car's mileage just with the numbers on the dash.. it's not that hard to change it and so many cars imported to SL has this issues, their mileages has been changed even before they were sent to SL. Try using 15W-40 next oil change and see whether there is any improvement. I personally do not go for 10W-30 in any of my cars i bought used. I used 15W-40 in a quality brand and never had any oil burning issues...Any user manual will tell you that it's ok to use 15W-40 in a country with a temperature range like SL.

Thank you for your kind words Sylvi and you are most welcome. I'm glad my words helped you to learn something..by the way, If you started to work on new common-rail diesel engines you will see how much potential they have as powerful economical and low emission engines..I'm sure if you buy a vehicle with a turbo diesel CR-engine..you won't be fed up with it's performance at all...

Sorry for the delay Don, Yes, Super diesel gives you less mileage The more it's refined the more the fuel looses its energy while it's burning. This is not related to having more octane or Cetane in fuel, but then usually when you go for a higher standard in diesel, you get more refined fuel with less carbon. Less energy the fuel's got, less economy..this is similar to having E10 petrol (10% ethanol) they mix ethanol to make the fuel burn better and make it cheaper, but Ethanol's got less energy so you get less mileage out of it...also another example using Vegetable oil as diesel..you can run an old diesel car with no problems at all, but then you get less mileage compared to diesel because its more refined and less carbon in Vegetable oil.

For your power window problem as Nzer suggested, my guess too is that the switch at the door is faulty, Power windows go up and down when the polarity of the motor changes, and thats what the switch does. if you are a bit handy with a multi-meter you can find out which wire does what and then connect it manually to see exactly where the problem is..(But I do not recommend this unless you know what you are doing) in most cases either its a fuse or a faulty switch. In your case given that you can still operate the window from the switch at the driver's side door means it's most probably a faulty switch. for the 5th door at the back..usually they work with an electric actuator to pull the lock when you press the button. Try talking it to one of those places who do central locking systems, they might be able to help you...

Did you try taking that EGR blocking plate off and see whether there is any improvement? People block the EGR for many reasons. Mainly it gives you a bit of power at no cost, and also keep your throttle body a bit cleaner, but then in some models you need the EGR supply clean and running for the engine to perform normally. EGR mostly works at Idle and also at cursing speeds. So if it is the EGR that's causing your problems you might feel a sudden RPM spikes while you are driving at crusing speeds. Before you change the throttle body try cleaning it. Also clean the MAF while you are at it (Only use a MAF sensor cleaner)..See whether that makes any changes...

I'm guessing he's talking about 2 doors here.. Rear Left Door and also Boot or the 5th Door at the back. My car's got a electric remote boot release so I have a switch for that in my remote and also inside my glove box.. is that what you are talking about in #3 newone ?

Just to clarify.. Would you say that you engage the clutch when you press it down to the floor or after you let it go ? (I know it's a silly question.. but just needed to make it clear from you, don't mind me asking this from you, sometimes people get it confused) Only reason i can think of is you are taking the load off the engine while the clutch is engaged so RPM could go up slightly, I think that's normal..and as razordj suggested, letting go of the acc. few milliseconds before pressing down the clutch should do the trick.. Or if what you meant is the other way around then as Sylvi Suggested.. It could be a slipping cluch...

Exactly what it says on the video

I do not think it's because of the petrol that you are using.. I'm with your mechanic on this. Yes you can have a rough idle with a blocked egr valve as well as some other symptoms like engine Knocking, stalling, overheating and your car could fail the emission test.. sometimes you get the check engine light for blocked egr..in that case you can use a scanner to pin point exactly what's wrong..

Maybe the dpf is not a major issue in UK, I think UK fuel standards are much better compared to Aussi..but over here it's quite an issue. This DPF delete pipe has been designed by an Australian company..and they seems to be selling them by heaps.

Yes you are correct. But i know for a fact that deleting the dpf will give me better economy cz i have already done it on my Pathfinder and i notice a considerable gain in economy. What i have heard is and Has red about is having a de-restricted exhaust improve fuel economy, but i could be wrong. I'm not that much worried about economy but i don't think i can stop my dpf from ruining even though i use super diesel in mine cz I'm not using CJ-4 (Too expensive and not available in SL) engine oil and due to heavy traffic and short distance conditions in Sl.. so i guess I'll be better off just deleting the dpf. Still without the dpf D40 will pass the emission test in SL without any issues given that the M/T Navaras pass the test with no probelms without a dpf..

Sylvi, I got his details.. thanks. As I'm currently in Melbourne, I was planing on buying another DPF delete pipe from here because I tried it on my Pathfinder and it works fine. There is a company called Ch**-It and they make these pipes as well as diesel performance chips. Delete pipe cost about $300 AUD and comes with all the fitting instructions and also with a free EGR Blanking plate. I need to take off the DPF of my Navara back home in SL. I'll give this guy a ring and find out his rates. If he s cheaper I'll go with him. Thanks for your time and help once again.