Archon

Hey Randy, Errr.... Every temple has a tree thats more than 500 years old is incorrect .. Im a buddhist....so i know ...,, most temples have much younger "bo" trees.. may be like 30-80 years old or may be even younger ..heheh so who told you that lie?........... i didnt able to check your videos still but.. i'll would love to watch them today after i leave my office.

Petrol Head

dear chamila, check the engine for timing,, have you replaced your timing belt or chain at the specified correct time? then check the "throttle air bypass valve" (located in the throttle body)is correctly functioning coz its responsible to control air when the engine is idling, and check its bypass cavity is not blocked by dirt and debris finally check the MAF sensor if your jeep have one. coz bad MAF (mass air flow sensors) are known to cause this type of rpm behavior. Also you might find this manual useful http://www.mivec.co.nz/tech/4G9x_Engine_Manual.pdf Cheers, Archon

i donno this will help you but just want to add this idea too.. why dont you reset the ECU unit of your car. as i remember there is a specific sequence of ignition switch + break peddle combination. Cheers! Archon

harshansenadhir is correct.. when AC is turned on the RPM should go up slightly.. anyway it may depend on the make and model. try to download the manual of your car from the website there you can find the exact idle RPM.. as i remember a toyota 110 idle should be 750. idle RPM is very important to maintain the necessary oil pressure at idle , + engine mount health + correct emission range etc etc.. Cheer, Archon

Ohhh i cant stop lauging!!!! :lol: :lol:

hahahaha Hillarious !!! sorry VVTi i just cant help laughing at what you've said... oh hahahaha hey would you give him a much more feasible answer ? hahahaha Cheers Archon .. hahahahahahahah

1) three wheelers and 2)bikers are the worst.. + i have seen some three-wheelers are pasted wit 4x4 offroad stickers LOLZA!! Anyway the left lane law must be implemented on roads as much as possible and as soon as possible. Archon

100% true ! yea with honor! Archon.

YEa muchang! when the K value goes up the visibility will be reduced and the beam would get more bluish and then to indigo. as Kelum said 6000k (snow white) or 4300k would be the best providing the best useful luminosity for the human eye. cheers, Archon

Well sampa im glad that you've solved it.. seriously sorry guys i just wanted to help sampa and err i screwed up err anyway if i happen to visit our electrician again, I'll inquire about it by grabbing his neck . anyway thanks all who enlightened me and my special apology goes to sampa. Cheers Archon

Thanks stig and ripper for enlightening me.., i do really appriciate you guys Cheers Archon

hummmm ..... Cheers Archon

@ harshansenadhir .. well i donno electronics but thats how our electrician solved the problem and he showed us the faulty diode plates and that’s what he replaced. And that’s what solved the case.. not the voltage regulator… Cheers, Archon

@ stig , yes muchang i agree with your point but muchang bad diodes do clearly drain the battery. I have experienced it so clearly. And our car didn’t had any electrical faults or shorts besides that one.. once the diode set was replaced then the problem got solved instantly 100%. The symptoms I had was draining of battery so quickly even if the battery was very new. What I cant quite explain is the phenomenon where his starter motor drags at the 1st attempt where his latter consecutive attempts get successful ! I cant remember this particular behavior coz it happened 2 years back to our fb13. That’s why I also want him to check the relevant “Relay” too Cheers Archon

yes BLu3HaZe in FB 13 alternator (a generic alternator) has 2 circuit boards side by side mounted inside the alternator housing. When they go bad (they sort of get burnt away). But the alternator keeps working at the initial stage charging the battery but at a poor efficiency until a considerable number of diodes fail.( << according what I remember.. coz it happened about 2 years ago ) But the most important fact is that when the car is switched “off ” and parked aside, these bad diodes make the battery to drain at a considerably fast rate.(that I remember very well) If he has lesser number of diodes gone bad the battery drain is not that rapid, hence I suspect that’s why he can still start the car in the morning.. but our FB13 was not able to start at all those days if we have left the car over a single night (it was a new 95Ah battery). So we had to disconnect the batter until we solved the issue. Cheers , Archon

oh and dont forget to check the relevent relay too.. Archon

Stig hi mate! he says, "Though it drags and start for the first time it doesn't drag and start if I start it in the second or third time" if the battery is weak at the 1st place how come it will be able to provide much better power on the 2nd and 3rd attempts. I have came across such a bizarre behavior and it was the alternator diode set and once they were replaced it got solved.. yes it sounds very odd! Its very very odd. Cheers! Archon

Well as i have heard some cars now comes with "sealed" gear boxes (please correct me if im wrong), specially small and compact cars, therefore you cant do anything with such gearboxes coz they are "sealed". If something bad happens you have to completely swap the entire gear box which is bad I would suggest that you would contact the A*W in order to verify that. Cheers! Archon

I suspect the culprit is the alternator diode set, take it to a reliable electrician and check the alternator .. yea yea this looks completely irrelevant but I have came across a similar event with a Nissan FB13 that’s why. If it is the problem they will replace the diode kit which is less expensive. Cheers Archon

well dhejasvini i would suggest that you would do other immediate repairs before you consider the cv joint problem, coz its not a critical issue. Im sure you know that too . Anyway buddy enjoy your new ride I’ ll share you spare parts details and other useful information in the future so do keep in touch. Cheers Archon

hehehe no dhejasvini im not selling her in near future.. well about the CV joints and things tell me what made you think that they need to be replaed ? do you hear that distinctive sound when you take a sharp turn? Hummm…. Im afraid buddy I have no idea of how much they will cost you but im sure you can find reconditioned stuff at delkanna and wijerama area if you do not find them in pachhicka wattha.. remember, when you service the car always make sure to go under the hoist and check all boots (CV/PS/shock ) and lower arm bushes and break pads buy your self…. If you have bad CV joints that means it was being running with torn or ruptured CV boots…dust and sand gets in to the lubricant and makes a potent abrasive past… that’s how they get worn out so quickly.. and to all you guys out there.. remember this also happens if your drive your car in flood water for couple of mins.. coz muddy /flood water contains tiny sand particles which sweeps through the boot ends and get embedded in grease, so keep that in mind too. Cheers Archon

well yea i agree with you Don ...actually it depends on the condition of the vehicle...i didn’t mention that routine checking procedure of a 2nd hand vehicle before buying, be-coz those procedures have been discussed many times over and over on this forum before.. hope our buddy would be lucky to find a good car in good condition. Cheers! Archon

HI dhejasvini well… im a proud owner of a Sprinter Marino since 2006. well I donno much about CK2 so im not going to comment on it that much but I love Mitsubishi cars too.. I would like to give you a little description about Sprinter Marino’s… but before that I have to tell you that im so lucky to buy my Marino over autolanka, it was a home delivered from JPN and the seller was a TRUE GENTLEMAN so the car was in genuine condition when I bought it . Its the 1997 model with 1587 cc Twin Cam 16 Valve DOHC 2nd Gen 4AFE naturally aspirated engine. With a Manual transmission, Remember, unlike the GE,. The FE engine is built for economical purpose and not a sports breed.. but it has a damn good acceleration and it emits a sweet unique low guttural sound (specially when the exhaust manifold gets cracked after aging it’s a common phenomenon for these engines). 116 BHP @ 5800rpm and 13.9 Kgf*m of torque @ 4300rpm(tested in JPN by the previous owner) red line at 6000rpm and rev limiter triggers at 6200rpm (lol tested by me). These 4AFE engines are rock solid, you have to dynamite them sabotage those.. it has an aluminum head and an iron block, so don’t need to worry about oil sludge problems (that you’ll find in engines with aluminum blocks like 1NZFE). These engines are built to last a VER LONG time and BUILD QUALITY IS SUPERIOR the design shows no sign of cost cutting attempts. Remember now the engine has done over 145000 kms, i frequently shifts gears at the red line since I bought it and engine is still smooth as a baby even though she is 13 years old now. To be honest the sound of the engine beyond 3000 rpm, the acceleration and everything makes you feel so good… I haven’t even touched the engine or gear box or anything yet.. just have change the engine oil and usual general maintenance stuff (at the correct time). If you wanna more aggression you can always swap a 4AGE turbo charged black top or a red top engine which churns more than 220 Bhp with out any problem at any time. 4AGE comes with a 6 forward gear box. The Marino comes with INDEPENDENT, factory fitted stiff suspension system. So its very easy to handle at high speeds, very agile and as it has a lower profile, the car is very stable all in all. But compromises the ride comfort ability a bit hehehe. . + Marino has less space inbetween the roof and heads of passengers, coz it’s a low profile hard top. But It has lot of room inside the boot.. errr kinda enough for 2 fully grown adults lol… Ground clearance is low… and it becomes considerably lower at the engine compartment area. Therefore, game yanakote eeka prushnayak wenawa LOL! Although, seats are deigned for 5 passengers. God has not yet created a creature which fits in to the rear middle seat.. it is not suitable for pregnant women at all, the delivery might happen with in few kms despite the number of moths. Its equipped with an ABS system which is so awesome that even if you touch the break paddle while running over a small dich you can hear the ABS booster is being kicked on. Coz its sensitive to that small speed differences of wheels. I love that booster sound. Car is equipped with dual air bags and passenger side crash bars. Im sure you will feel the doors are bit heaver than any model of other japanese car in this range even though the doors are frameless. It has a small onboard multi functional display where it reports everything from clock, calendar to warnings like low oil pressure, individual door opening recognition, windshield wiper fluid and low fuel level etc etc... (but everything is in Japanese). It comes with Projector lights for normal beam and then you have the head lights and fog lights all are located in their own chambers (you can upgrade the normal beam to HID easily) Interior is very unique in design and its sexy. Like in supra’s everything in the dashboard/instrument panel has a slight orientation towards the driver. All the plastics and other fabrics in the interior are manufactured with very high quality materials, no deformation or color shading would occur unless the owner is careless and do something stupid.. in order to check if my words are true,.. park a Marino side by side with any latest corolla and compare it. Everything in a nutshell : A ROCK SOLID Vehicle,….. Highly Reliable, Durable and Sentimental and Sexy. Marino is a “drivers car”.. its for ppl who loves to drive in the old fashioned way.. no much fancy electronics to take over your control.. its just you, the engine and laws of physics. 1.6 Ltr, Independent Short stiffer SUS, ABS, Dual Air Bags, Side crash bars, Auto A/C, power windows, power mirrors, power steering(hydraulic) 5 passenger capacity, baby door locks, Frameless doors, individual reading lights for passengers, Multifunctional Display, Projector lights, rear windshield wiper. (car stereo is not my concern coz engine provides me the music). This car is built with QUALITY.. engine, body and interior are manufactured to last long with high quality materials….. (as it was manufactured back in good old 90’s,coz those days Japanese were still concerned about the quality rather than cheap production..) Fuel economy is some what okay (EFI).. city limits 10-12kms/Ltr and outer city limits 13-14km/Ltr (Manual). High availability of engine spare parts…body parts are available too (I have seen in delkanda) but bit harder to find but you can order those from Toyota Lanka which may take 1-2 months for them to get down from Japan. (The company have spares for these models still). Hope you find my info useful.. if you need more info pls feel free to ask Cheers, Archon

have you changed your gear oil? And checked the gear oil level? Do it when the engine is not running. what’s the color of the gear oil now? is it dark red (black-red)? .. if it so, then you have to change the gear oil.