harshansenadhir

Many happy returns of the day trucker boy.. wish you a wonderful year ahead with off roading (sailing ), fishing and lots of DIY stuff.

small correction Don as companies got things a bit complicated in local context. Techincally, hire purchase means company gets in to a hiring agreement with the lessee, means, vehicle will be owned (fully owned) by the company and lessee will use it and pay a fee monthly as monthly hire. In terms of legality, risk in HP towards the lessee is very high in case of a default and towards company it's highly favouring as single and absolute owner of the vehicle will be the company and lessee (customer) will only have the right to use it. In Leasing, lessee owns the asset (be it a machine or a vehicle) and finance the capital by transferring the absolute ownership to the financing institution. In a lease, both lessee and finance institute holds the ownership. However, absolute ownership is being retained with company. Whilst being little expensive, finance leasing has it's own benefits towards a lessee/customer in following terms. 1. if the lessee / customer is a VAT paying entity, then the VAT portion (not the supplier vat but the vat in lease rental) can be reclaimed. 2. rates will not be changed unlike in a loan / HP agreement. 3. in case of a default, lessee will hold comparetively better legal battle grounds as oppose to HP/Mortgage loan In local context HP is being used for registered vehicles due to high risk involved in a used vehicle as oppose to new / unregistered vehicle. Therefore, companies offer leasing for unreg/brand new/non depreciated assets and offers HP on used/depreciated assets/vehicles. Also the paying of the balance and own the vehicle is not being used, instead HP too gets a similar re-payment schedule similar to Leasing. Differences are how the legal terms are defined in the agreement, the formats and legality in reminder letters and re-possession process, leasing is [rental(capital+interest)+vat ] where as HP is [rental(capital+interest)] no VAT on rental. The HP in other countries (use and pay) is termed in here as operating leases, where the vehicle/asset will be a fully owned asset by the financing company (goes into the asset registry as oppose to HP/ Lease) and entire maintenance (corrective/preventive) of the vehicle/asset will be borne and done by the finance company.

No one said the batteries of J44s should be rotated every month. Let me correct you on your response and show the difference between the battery banks/packs you have worked with and the setup in J44/J24 The battery packs/banks always stored next to each other. Therefore, connectivity between (+)ve terminal of one battery to the (-)ve terminal of the other is through either clamps or short thick wires. Resistance is related to distance of the wire? Yeah? So in battery banks resistance of the wire between two batteries is negligible. However, in J44 setup, the batteries are in either sides of the engine bay (have you ever seen? fine) therefore, the wire used is at least 5ft long. When length increases, the resistance also does increases. Therefore, the resistance of the wire/connectivity between the two batteries is significant and obviously more than of those battery banks. Agree? not an issue, it's a fact. Let's see what happens when starter motor starts operating. Mind you, these starter motors draw a significant amount of current and if you have loosen terminals; it can damage the terminal too. Motor starts drawing current from the system and the first battery (naturally, the one closer with a short wire attached directly to the starter motor from (+) terminal) would be first to provide maximum voltage it can. Due to the resistance on the connecting wire between the batteries, the supportive voltage the system gets from the other battery is lesser than what the first battery can provide. So the first battery always ends up straining than the second during the starter motor operation in J44s. On a side note, if any J44 users have 12V components such as A/C blowers, HID lights etc. plugged only to a single battery, yet again it’s a must to rotate batteries to reduce straining a single battery all the time.

If I were you, would try to remove a tiny layer off from the pads and see. It's being done when the thickness of the pads is not certain (substandard brake pads) and piston does not travel back sufficiently.

I don't think anybody would give a rats a$$ to what you have done, if it's not properly done. Misleading public or other members without much knowledge and wiping your hands off saying "it's up to them to do or not" sort of is not acceptable in this community. Do us a favor Mr. Sylvester, stop giving crappy advises to other members and history lessons and more importantly, stop blowing your own trumpet when all of above fail.

I only can think of following wires/connectors to the speedometer in this model. 1. High beam indicator 2. Gauge cluster illuminator care to post a picture?

Removing original components came with a vehicle as part of the design (removing thermostat valve etc) are known as makabass type of advises and this too goes on the same lines plus you have been giving such advises in this forum. Read my first post carefully, no nitpicking, no personal attacks, the second one which was addressing JDnet asking to leave you alone without making fun out of you knowing the way you are and that's somewhat accepted in this forum (rather we have learnt to tolerate) BUT, giving harmful advises is something WE CANNOT tolerate, hence I've been correcting. There's nothing for you to regret as I was critisizing your advises, not you. Learn to accept critisizm. now on the topic : 1. If you have compelled to remove the propotionate valve due to an exceptional reason, don't just advise someone to do it. 2. there's no relationship to the OPs issue (with front disk brakes) with brake propotionate valve 3. Even in this post you have incorrectly referred to the propotionate valve as tandem master cylinder. Please use correct terms as some newbie might pick these up and use elsewhere. Personal advise: don't just jump into respond to someone with something you have done which is remotely related to (or not related at all) the problem / issue.

Forgot one fact.. that is the battery on the passenger side dies fast in these jeeps (J series with 24v starter). Reason is the starter motor (+)ve feed is taken from that battery. Since starter motor pulls 24v serial, the first battery gets a higher load first and then gets the feed from the other. Therefore, you will be extending the life of the battery if you switch both time to time. Which one died first in your case ?

ha ha give the ole man a break ... knowing he gives those makabass type advises. This time to make it worse, the proportionate valve has nothing to do with a front wheel brake bind

if you doubt the thickness of the pads, I rekon, removing a layer off from the pads.

Cannot comment on a particular brand but have had bad experience with the brand you're trying to move into as well. Battery failed on the 13th month where warranty is only for 12 months. Replaced with the brand you're trying to get rid of and lasted until I sold the car. Issue with the first brand you mentioned can be due to high numbers they're being sold. As a matter of fact, most selling brand can contribute to have high percentage among returns as well. check for statistics such as number of batteries sold : no of batteries returned of all brands. Then you can do a fair comparison.

let's not get mislead by the above post first. Tandem master cylinder is nothing but a one with two pistons, primary pressed by the booster/pedal and secondary gets pressed by the first. That can handel two different circuits, if one gets leaky, the other circuit will continue to operate. The cylinder Sylvi mentioned is the brake propotionate valve which adjust the rear/front braking balance according to the payload of the vehicle. Don't just remove it, you'll pay the price if you're to stop with a heavy load on your back. back to OPs issue. You tend to get light brake binds and heated up wheel rims for about first 100 to 200kms after a frontal brake pad change. However, if it's severe brake bind, which cause the wheels to lock and drag, that's not nomal under any circumstances. it can be due to one of few reasons given below. 1. You have used wrong pads with an incorrect thickness or locally repaired ones 2. Piston travel is not adequeate. Piston and the cylinder gets "used" to a particular travel distance once the pads worn out. The rest of the surface of the piston/cylinder gets some rust since that area is not being used/rubbed frequently. Make sure you or your mechanic remove this rust and make the surface even. Observe piston travel when you press the brake pedals and use a C clamp or lever to press the piston back to see whether it travels back without any histation. 3. Pads usually retained aligned properly by some tentionned metal clips. Lack of these can misalign the pads creating partially stuck pads.

Simply it shows how great brand that is For this brand, customers (good old days, I meant) always went with the agent. Only recently they have divereted due to multiple failures/mistakes done by the agent. However, the previous management of this company had took all measures to stamp the brand name in this continent and that's what still continues.

Very informative GTAM, yes we all are waiting for a day that relationship is tested and challenged. At least, in terms of appointing another agent for this country. They certainly could’ve captured a huge market with the previous top of the range model as permits were open at that time and also with the current top of the range model, again permits are open and prices are very competitive even in par with Korean competition. I doubt they did what it takes to capture that market properly. Having said that, it's pretty amazing to learn how a company dropped no of agencies from 16 brands (yes, they were the agents for 16 different automotive brands) in to 1, workshop strength 300+ employees to less than 50 among other major losses in their asset book within a span of 10 to 15 years.

I don't believe the cooler unit of this newer car has reached its life. You can do a pressure test isolating each component. Cooler, Condenser and piping and compressor. Pressurize each sub system with nitrogen and monitor the pressure over night. If there's a leak in any sub component, it'll indicate a significant loss of pressure. Further, if this has happened after re-charging of refrigerant, that can be due to valves in the charging nipples are not closed properly. This can be checked by applying some foam to the charging nipples to see whether any bubbles come out.

They've sold the Ratmalana property and now staying in the same land by paying a monthly rental to Ideal. Wish if a capable conglomerate takes the agency to do some justice to the brand. However, the relationship between mother company and them is very strong as they have helped the mother company to survive during difficult times. Therefore, no matter how you complain, mother company still bears with them. I know this, being there, done that. oh please, last thing I want is their ill fated, frustrated employees (esp in workshop) who try to grab some buck by misleading/cheating customers.

if PS is a must, KE72 is out of the equation. let me suggest a later series Lancer C12 Fiore. Comparetively newer than most overpriced Toyotas and carries lots of options too.

Need more info to give a proper answer. Also you don't have to always put the lever to P to start. Even in position N you should be able to start. Try to see whether this issue occurs when the lever is in N or P or both. Also do you hear a clank / click sound when you turn the key to start position ? If you don't hear that, most probably the issue is with gear selector switch or ignition switch base itself. If you hear the sound and motor doesn't turn, then either the brushes in the motor are worn out or solenoid switch in the motor or motor itself is faulty.

If It was only overheating, there's a possibility of it's being due to blocked rad.(decreased efficiency in heat exchange) rad blocking means some lines gets clogged, not the entire water flow gets blocked. In this scenario the top hose become empty, means entire water flow out of engine block gets blocked. That mostly happens due to blocked thermostat. removing of thermostat to check whether that is the cause is easier than removing and cleaning the rad.

I'm yet to comeacross a 306 auto in SL

around 1.3 ~ 1.4 mil in my opinion.

This depends on many factors, including the engine type (EFI/Carb), options, No of previous owners and how well the car is maintained (these should've well maintained with a proper history records to demand a price premium), whether the car got non-english or english numbered plates (since the english no mania has infected the European market). however, generally the price range for this model varies from 800,000/- (series 1 with carb engine and bearing 19/300/301 plates) to 1.6mil (with HDI diesel engine and english numbered plates). This car should fall on 1.2 mil ~ 1.3 mil range if i'm not mistaken.

there's a high probability. Easiest thing you can do is, remove it temporary (in most cases 30mins job or even lesser). If the issue sorted out, replace with a genuine one.

these quick ups and downs of the needle indicates erractic and non-constant water flow goes passing the coolant temp. sender.

coils going bad cannot predict until it gives these symptoms. Once my best friends car used to stop randomly whenever it "feels" like, never could predict. Couldn't start back until the engine/engine bay cools down. Used to wrap the coil with a cloth soaked in water to start it back. Issue was the faulty coil. One more thing, that is mount the coil on a position where it doesn't get engine/exhaust heat (away from exhaust manifold) and where there's plenty of air flow either from front gril or from auxiliary fans.