harshansenadhir

Did he bleed from all 4 points and also from the master pump itself? since it's a complete flush of fluids a thorough bleeding is required unless you used a bleeding machine. Only suspicion is air inside the system as you didn't touch the disks.

does the pedal comes up when you pedal few times at raw? then when you keep pressing it, do you feel it goes further slowly towards the firewall/floor? If you answered Yes to both questions, there are still some air bubbles inside. Sounds like you have gone to non-golf/Euro expert, no offense but that's the first step of ruining that beauty I feel.

Tappet covers (room between the tapet cover and the hood/bonnet is less in car, so valve cover is more of flat than the van engine), t-belt covers (van engine has provision for belt driven fan mountings where as there's no mechanical fan on a car engine) and air intake lines are different. Car engine will have an additional mounting point on the t-belt housing end than the ones fits the cross-member.

Well they're not into that smooth rubbers.

I don't think he's underrated. He's very very reputed among classic and Euro owners coz he can be literrly the only guy around who can match the original interior quality of an Euro. All this comes with a fairly high bill which should be justifiable with the kind of rarity of the item/vehicle and the kind of work to be done.

Isn't this full time 4WD/AWD activates only when the system finds the rear wheels become slippery? so technically the front two wheels aren't powered all the time, at least from what I know about this NOAH/TownAce AWD system. That's why there is no transfer case like in traditional 4WD systems but another differential kind of a mechanism between the front wheels and rear wheels. I can understand if your conversion is based on justifications like hard to find spare parts (CVs, CV boots and other front suspension related) less second hand market value (perception issue in typical SL market) but,if it's for a gain of few kilometers per liter, come'on it's Diesel, we're talking about 7-8 rupees per kilometer cost here. How long do you think you should run this to recover your conversion cost? and potential damage and opportunity cost if you ever encounter a slippery incline rutty road? with a rear wheel drive van with a light weight back, it's a blessing to have powered frot wheels don't you think?

I think I replied to the status with this same issue. However, engine sound may vary on many parameters. The simplest one to look at are openings/cracks in air intake path (trust me an opened air cleaner box gives a sound simillar to one of a broken silencer) maybe loosen clips in air cleaner compartment, then the exhaust manifold and flexible parts of the silencer and barrels. If the sound is like a rattle, AKA taka taka sound, it's usually from the valve shims used in 1C and 2C engines, this sound is quite noticiable in a cold engine though. Plus, the other most noticiable sound in an old diesel could be the sound of injectors and pump. So if simple things like openings in either of manifolds is not the cause, giv it a check to see whether injectors and pump service, re-pressurizing required. Then move on to see whether it's valves related. As Peri said, this could be very relative and subjective as well. Get a second opinion from a person who's hands on with these type of engines first of all. One small fact for your information, 1C car engine (with air intake on driver side with slightly different air intake manifold) and the 1C van engine (with air intake on passenger side with a straight forward manifold) has different sounds if you listen attentively.

Imagined one going to kudda fellows on Darley road asking "who's L.P. Gunaratne?" BTW, as of recent, they have deveoped a habbit of ripping off some frequent visitors and I felt I was a victim twice, sadly. Negotiate prices and check the quality thoroughly after they complete the job.

Beading is only a factor in this whole math. Beading alone wouldn't help if the locks worn out and pins are worn out.

if its overheating for a 2km run, I would first look at water fan than the radiator assuming your thermostat valve is not in place (since it's a CR26 and chances of local mechanics mucked up the thermostat valve are high ). If it's there, check for a possible blocked thermostat valve.

cheap solution would be to metal fill the door lock catches on the door as well as on the pillar. If door pins are worn out, either replace them or get a good lathe guy to repair/re-fix door pins. Rubber beadings too play a vital role in this, make sure they're in good condition and you got the ones made for the specific make/model. I've seen some have replaced with any junk found on Delkanda and door has to be slammed to be caught by the lock/catches.

Asset change is possible and even you should be able to reschedule for the new amount. Classic example is warranty return of a vehicle with a lease.

That's quite ok but not the best in a series circuit. However, make sure that the 90Ah battery on the passenger side where it takes the (+) to the starter motor.

Cost I don't have any idea but you can try wasantha motors and Willys motors in panchikawatte

What's the engine your car got ? If it's not 3Ce engine, it has a mechanical injector pump. In diesel pump there's governor which is also known as idle circuit. That will maintain the lower idle speed of the engine. If it goes down it'll automatically increase the diesel flow mechanically. Since you claim that the rpm also goes down, I'll remove a possibility of failed engine mount and more suspicious towards idle circuit of the diesel pump. Best is to take it back to the guys who did it

Thumbs up and it doesn't depend on the vehicle make model etc. Ever seen KE72 s with 20- plates? Those are registered as dual purpose. More than make model it's the owners decision what's the intended purpose of the vehicle, within the guidelines of motor traffic act. For an example you can't register a sedan as dual purpose.

Not linking the ad and referring to generic car selling terms which are funny, may be ok, peri might clear the boundaries in this.

throttle body clean up with injector pressurizing would sort out lot of rough idle issues. If it further persists, check the throttle positioning sensor (TPS) and throttle gate itself for improper closings/openings for idle setup.

I wish all the success and I might do the same for a one car my father had. However, if I was you, I wouldnt have published it like this. Chances of some guy rip you off and demand a premium are inevitable in this country.

I think you're referring to the fella in our batch ?

hmm, IST perhaps

priaasss?

many happy returns of the day. hope you'll have a good one

not anymore

might be a legal plate as RMV stopped issuing 325 - for sometimes now, instead they issue the Petrol number with D.