harshansenadhir

They say, Euros are generally good in picking girls.. so you know from where the fragrance comes ..

as pointed out in a different thread, this is now a must in Sri Lankan context. Consumer affairs authority had taken some serious actions on companies didn't put up the price tag in paper advertisements. You see now all ad carries at least the starting price

Nah. A can of distilled water AKA battery water

When the pump was installed in the car does it work the way it worked when given direct power? If not its a power issue or tubing issue including petrol filter. Certainly you should check the relay and + and - lines supplied to the coil of the relay

Narahenpita. http://www.motortraffic.gov.lk/transfers.php

This leaves the doubts I had on the fuel pump to a greater extend but I don't have any other suspect in this scenario. If I was you, I would've demanded the agent saying the pressure regulator replacement didn't solve the issue, hence theyve done an unwanted repair and would ask them to prove their point that the issue will be sorted out by replacing the pump.

Those who say it should go down are wrong. Simple

one more tip. Before the morning cold start, where your starting delay occurs do following. Switch on the ignition, listen for the fuel pump sound, where it initally pressurizes the lines and after pump stops working, switch the ignition off. Leave for few seconds, switch it on again, and switch off after pump stops working. Do this about three times and then crank the engine to see whether it starts instantly. If it starts instantly, there's a 99% probability that your starting delay is due to a weak petrol pump. hope this helps.

Fuel pump in an EFI car feeds petrol continously and in a high pressure to maintain adequate pressure (3.5 bars generally) on the common injector rail. If the engine stops or if the driver switches on the ignition and doesn't crank, the pump will work for a set time period and shuts off. During the engine runing period, it pumps continously. In a carbeurator model, carbeurator has a fuel stack in it accompanied with a floater to close the fuel feed line (line out from either mechanical or electronic pump) preventing overflow. When the engine runs, it's sufficient to fill up what's being consumed by the engine. Check whether, your pump does it's job adequeately to fill the carbeurator when the engine is running at it's full potential (means pump has to be quick in filling the chamber). You said the pump is working, judge the fuel flow to see whether it's adequeate to fill the carbeurator. Working with a weak fuel flow might not be adequate and that could be the reason why your car stalls in intervals. When the car stalls just pull out the fuel feel line to see whether it's pumping fuel adequately. If it does, then the issue is something to do with the carbeurator.

Idle RPM depends on vehicle Make/Model and may be engine type as well. Further, When the A/C is switched on, RPM should rise, provided that the idle up mechanism works properly. With a working idle up system, engine will rev higher to compensate the additional load on the engine due to compressor + condensor fan/auxiliary fan and to provide effective cooling/gas recirculatioin of the A/C system. If the RPM goes down with the A/C on, that means a makabass has messed up with the idle up mechanism.

Still the issue will be there as it has nothing to do with the engine alone. The final drive ratio of a diesel is higher than of a petrol. Say if engine revs one round, petrol final drive revs one round where as in a diesel it might be running two rounds. This is only very hypothetical example to elaborate. The reason is petrol rev limit is higher and it deliver high torque in higher rpms where as in diesel rpm limit is lower and it delivers high torque without having to rev the engine higher.

Apparently this is a MK II

Do some math on final drive difference and see how the engine would rev at 100 km/h. I had a converted 504 and a KE72. Both were trying to throw out pistons at 90 and above speeds. Managed to touch 110 in 504 but engine was maxing out at that time. For city driving there's no issue though.

Call this guy, Lalith. (773) 147-826

date of expiry or before you should renew it. Else, techcnically you're not suppose to run the vehicle on the road. There's a fine starting from 180/- or 200/- from the very first day it's get delayed. Not quite sure on the entire penalty system but what I've noted was, if you delayed one day or two three weeks, it didn't make any difference, but after the first month it's get multiplied. Better get it done without delaying discussing it here. There is an online option as well, search the forum you will enlightened.

Try government information line (1212?) as revenue license fee varies on vehicle category, fuel type, weight of the vehicle, engine capacity all that.

runing it almost a month as a daily runner and can compete with any new car in the day to day traffic, though it's non-turbo, it has an impressive pick up. This has an after market A/C which doesn't work. Need to re-do the tubing as one tube got damaged. Parts I didn't have any issue as there's an individual who imports parts exclusively for VW Golf. Replaced the T-belt, tappet cover packings, air clearner, all engine mounts only spending 7800/-. Cheap isn't it? Fuel guzzlers? lolz. ran about 270 kms from a full tank and the needle hasn't moved from 3/4 mark. Thought better not to trust the needle of this old car and went to the shed again. Only could squeeze in 1220/- worth of fuel. that's above 18 kms a liter figure, mind you I was full throttle all the time. After that fill up on last Monday morning to the date I'm running without any fill up, still above 3/4 mark. This time I'm little gentle on the peddal as I wanna outdo the prius fuel figures (21 kmpl )

Yes, indeed. if there is an interfacer looks like this, and provide full or partial connectivity between the aftermarket setup, that'll be a wonderful solution. Ah, Citroen usually comes with a hidden setup PSA luxury models came with that option, such as 605.

in fact that VAG diesel engine sound itself is a music to ear, seriously that injector sound is really cute . If there's music, at all, that has to be really loud to outdo the engine sound. oh, this is the one i had in my D8. I thought there are some interfacers kind of panel which will give the original look on the face of it. I simply hate a small setup in that as oppose to the original one which gives the instrument panel a complete look. May be personal preferences.

Save the transmission, either use an interfacer plate in between tranny and engine or use tranny side bell housing of tribute and engine side bell housing of the 3c. Measure out the optimum length of the complete bell housing. Create a new one using these halves. Since this is auto, use the original tranny torque converter. You will have one disadvantage in using original tranny and final drives, that is engine will over rev as diesel rpm range is way less than petrol engine's rpm. I.e this final drive might be designed to rev the engine to 4k rpm when traveling at 120 where as in the diesel engine this is almost close to rpm limiter

No wonder why you don't see that number any more as if he had done a diesel to petrol conversion, it would've got a running petrol number at that time.

GTI engine means petrol or even Diesel had GTI engine versions? pardon me am still building up my knowledge base of Golf

bummer!! that's like a sister of this This was originally brought to EDB and not gone to many hands (i'm the 3rd) as per the CR at least

Till the OP comes up with new GOLF pics, let me post some pics of my OLD GOLF MK1 series II. Needless to say that lot of value addition had gone in since I got my hands on her it's got spotless interior with all original upholstry, seat covers etc. Have to tide up the rear door upholstry. I'm sure she's a head turner! Sorted out lot of electrical issues starting from glow plugs, turn signals, head lights! and the fog lights, reverse lights, horn and dash board indicators and dash lights (there were couple of days I used the phone light to keep an eye on the gauges ) Need to work next on the rear wipers and the washer Who says one needs HID lights to make bus drivers to dip their lights? installed one relay each for dim, high beams and fog lamps in the shell. with that, I'm all equipped to make those ignorant fools to dip their high beams. (proven ). Elder one is looking into the "kabal white car" in his terms lol , he's in love with the Executive and hates travelling in this.

How about the petrol filter? has that been replaced? I hate to say this but I suspect the pump is not running as usual and causing the pressure drop in the injector rail provided that you have replaced the pressure regulator. Did you remove all petrol (contaminated stuff) in the tank and ran the car with a tank full of 95 octane ? Source a test pump if possible and run the vehicle using that pump and see whether the issue persists. That way, you can be sure it's due to the pump or something else in the fuel feed circuit.