Harshitha

Here is the good news! After being tracking each and every data ECM produces while driving and knocking, it was realized that there is nothing to do with any sensors or anything related to false data. Purely it was a dead end by the way. so it was convinced that this is something related to combustion chamber or exhaust back pressure. Since pulling the exhaust header out is the easier way, I decided to go ahead with it. After removing the header, I realized that one catalytic converter honeycomb was entirely missing and other one is still in tact. I believe there should be two cat converters by the way! In this model, there are two exhaust header chambers (bank 1 and bank 2) with two separate o2 sensors in place and no o2 sensors in place after the cat converters. Each chamber/bank has each cat converter in place. My expectation was a clogged cat but one is already missing and other one was not so clogged, it was a dead end again to me. But when I was trying to clean the cat with soapy water, I realized it took so long to travel water to the other side. I submerged it for few hours and cleaned thouraly and dried it under hot sun. while the cat dries, I inspected the exhaust ports and found out leaking oil from top of the valve may be due to leaky valve seals (hoping). This could be same in intake side I assume. Since this requires tons of work and head needs to come out, I kept it for future repair. after drying out I fixed the header and also cleaned both o2 sensors just in case if there are any clogged passages that may not visible to bare eye. today I drove the car as usual to office and had few mid day trips around Colombo and did all the possible steps to create the knock but it was hardly there! So I assume that there was an exhaust back pressure that was causing the engine to knock. Or may be cleaned o2 sensors did the trick? I don’t think so as I get the same reading from sensors like before. opened for discussion.

I have the same model and experiencing the same problem. As far as I inspected various aspects of statistics of the vehicle when operating, I do not really see any error. However, something is wrong somewhere and I believe we connect together and sort this out as it is a huge issue to coop with.

It should be yellow for 92 and red for 95....Visually you can't differentiate whether it is 92 or 95. In some stations i got yellowish color for 92..some other stations i got much whiter color for 92.

Undercarriage washing is not a thing to do frequently unless there is lot of mud and other stuff hangs underneath. I prefer to maintain a proper body under coating whenever possible and try not to spray oil as there are lot of rubber stuff are mounted and it tends to tear apart while it moves. If you can manage to keep oil away from each and every rubber parts and spray only to the body, then it's fine. But it is very frustrating thing to do. Oil in fact attracts dirt though. So the best way is to maintain a proper protective under coating. Probably a under body protective paint with a brush would do the trick.

Yes i totally agree with our SL Baas works! Recently i met a garage guy who does carb conversions. He said he can remove existing piston type carb and put a nissan doctor sunny carb that is more reliable and can control fuel consumption by adjusting jets. But for that he has to do some slight mods to the intake manifold. Any expert idea on this?

Hi All, I own a Mitsubishi Lancer GLX 1992. Mostly known as CB2A. I've read the threads of the problems with the type of carb that comes with this model and i experience the same issues right now. My questions are, Is the CB2A model good to have? Any alternative carb that fits in to this with minor modifications? Can anyone help me to find the repair manual for whole car (Factory or Haynes) I know there are lot of techies out there. So guys pls help me with this....